UC-NRLF 


SB    277    MD7 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 


PRESENTED  BY 

PROF.  CHARLES  A.  KOFOID  AND 
MRS.  PRUDENCE  W.  KOFOID 


THE 


NEW    SYSTEM 


OF 


EDUCATING  HORSES; 


INCLUDING   INSTRUCTIONS   ON 


FEEDING,  WATERING,  STABLING,  SHOEING,  ETC. 

WITH 

TREATMENT  FOR  DISEASES. 


ILLUSTRATED, 


INCLUDING    MANY    VALUABLE    RECIPES 

NOT    BEFORE    PUBLISHED. 

BY     D.    UytAQNER, 

Author  of  the  NEW  SYSTEM. 

• 

TWELFTH   EDITION;    RE-WRITTEN,  WITH   NEW  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


BOSTON: 
FRANKLIN  PRESS :   RAND,  AVERY,  &  CO. 

1878. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress  in  the  year  1877, 

BY  D.  MAGNKR, 
In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


Special  Notice.  —  If  you  want  a  cofy  of  this  book,  or  wish  to 
inquire  about  other  business,  address 

D.  MAGNER, 

Care  RAND,  AVERY,  &  Co., 

117  Franklin  Street,  Boston,  Mass. 

I  make  this  my  mail  point,  and  all  mail  sent  here  for  me  will  be 
forwarded  to  me  every  week  or  two.  If  you  fail  to  get  a  reply  in  two 
or  three  weeks,  write  again.  I  am  professionally  engaged  in  the 
country,  and  the  letter  may  be  lost  or  delayed  in  forwarding. 

D.  MAGNER. 


aer- 

alike 

rstood 


7577 


PEEFACE. 


BY   REV.    W.    H.    H.    MURRAY. 


THERE  are  eleven  million  horses  in  the  United  States, 
and  not  one  man  in  a  million  who  knows  how  to  educate 
them  to  the  highest  degree  of  usefulness.  We  say  educate; 
for  the  horse  is  an  animal  of  high  and  spirited  organiza- 
tion, endowed  by  his  Creator  with  capabilities  and  faculties 
which  sufficiently  resemble  man's  to  come  under  the  same 
general  law  of  education  and  government.  Primarily,  the 
word  educate  means  to  lead  out  or  lead  up;  and  it  is  by  this 
process  of  leading  out  and  leading  up  a  child's  faculties 
that  the  child  becomes  a  useful  man,  and  it  is  by  a  like 
process  that  a  colt  becomes  a  useful  horse.  Now  teachers, 
like  poets,  are  born,  not  made.  Only  a  few  are  gifted  to 
see  into  and  see  through  any  form  of  highly  organized 
life,  discern  its  capacities,  note  the  interior  tendencies 
which  produce  habits,  and  discover  the  method  of  develop- 
ing the  innate  forces  until  they  reach  their  noblest  ex- 
pression, and  then  apply  the  true  and  sufficient  guidance 
and  government.  The  few  who  have  this  gift  are  teachers 
indeed,  and  next  to  the  mothers  of  the  world  deserve  the 
world's  applause,  as  foremost  among  its  benefactors. 

Next  to  child  training  and  government  comes  horse 
training  and  government ;  and  which  is  the  least  under- 
stood it  were  hard  to  say.  Boys  and  colts,  so  much  alike 
in  friskiness  and  stubbornness,  both  are  misunderstood 


vi  PREFACE. 

and  abused  in  equal  ratio.  The  boys  are  shaken  and 
whipped,  and  colts  are  yanked,  kicked,  and  pounded. 
That  high-spirited  or  slow-witted  boys  become  good  men, 
and  high-spirited  or  dull  colts  make  serviceable  horses,  I 
conceive  is  due  to  {he  grace  of  God  more  than  to  man's 
agency,  —  that  fine  grace,  I  mean,  spread  abroad  through 
and  existing  in  all  his  creatures,  which  operates  in  re- 
generating continually,  making  the  good  better,  and  pre- 
venting those  whose  circumstances  forbid  their  becoming 
good  from  becoming  absolutely  bad. 

The  author  of  this  little  book  is  known  to  me  as  one  of 
the  gifted  ones  of  the  earth,  because  he  is  gifted  to 
discern  the  nature  of  animals,  and  educate  them  for  man's 
service.  The  possession  of  this  gift  suggested  his  mission, 
and  well  has  he  followed  it,  and  by  it  been  educated  him- 
self to  a  degree  rarely,  if  ever,  attained  by  man  before. 
I  doubt  if  there  be  on  the  globe  his  equal  in  knowledge 
as  to  the  best  method  of  training  horses.  Through  this 
volume  he  seeks  to  give  the  public  the  benefit  of  his 
experience.  I  bespeak  for  it  the  careful  perusal  of  the 
curious  and  of  those  especially  whose  judgment  and  heart 
alike  prompt  them  to  seek  for  and  promulgate  knowledge, 
which,  being  popularized,  would  make  the  people  more 
humane  and  horses  more  serviceable. 

W.  H.  H.  MURRAY, 

Murray's  Stock  Farm,    Guilford^    Conn. 


PRELIMINARY  HINTS. 


GENEKAL  CONDITIONS  AND  PRINCIPLES. 

I  HAVE  explained  and  illustrated  the  principles  of  my 
treatment  before  the  class.  I  would  here  call  your  atten- 
tion to  conditions  which  underlie  success  in  the  applica- 
tion of  those  principles. 

Horses  are  not  all  alike.  In  size,  intelligence,  and  dis- 
position, they  show  great  extremes  of  character.  The 
horse  has  also  a  certain  way  of  reasoning :  he  is  moved  to 
be  bad  or  good  by  the  impressions  made  upon  his  nervous 
system,  and  the  side  of  the  intelligence  acted  upon,  and 
the  intensity  or  not  of  the  impressions.  If  I  can,  by  an 
impression  of  only  a  few  moments,  so  excite  a  horse  that  I 
can  spoil  him,  and  form  a  habit  which  has  a  controlling 
influence  for  life  in  fixing  the  character,  it  is  evident  the 
true  key  of  success  in  either  preventing  or  breaking  up 
such  an  impression  or  habit,  is  to  make  a  stronger  impres- 
sion upon  the  opposite  side  of  the  nervous  system  in  a 
negative  manner ;  simply  holding  and  enlarging  upon  that 
advantage,  until  it  becomes  the  primary  and  controlling 
impression  upon  the  reason  of  the  animal.  To  make  this 
idea  clearer,  I  would  add  that  all  animal  functions  and 
physical  manifestations  are  of  a  positive  and  negative  char- 
acter. Through  these  manifestations  we  have  the  charac- 
ter according  to  the  influence  brought  to  bear  upon  it ;  for 
example,  hate  is  the  inverse  action  of  love,  and  love  is  the 
inverse  action  of  hate.  A  lady  is  sitting  in  a  car  holding  a 
child  she  loves ;  a  rough  man  comes  in,  and  tramples  upon 
the  infant ;  the  woman's  detestation  of  the  man  will  be 
exactly  in  proportion  to  the  love  she  bears  the  child. 
The  most  deadly  hatreds  are  those  excited  from  the 
intimacy  and  confidence  of  family  and  social  relations, 
as  proved  by  experience.  Every  organ  of  feeling  can 


2  GENERAL   CONDITIONS   AND   PRINCIPLES. 

be  acted  upon  in  both  ways.  Now,  in  breaking  a  bad  horse 
I  simply  act  inversely  to  a  previously  deranged  organism. 
In  breaking  the  colt,  I  aim  first  to  overcome  all  inclina- 
tion to  resist  any  demands  made  upon  him ;  second,  to 
overcome  all  impressions  of  fear ;  third,  when  a  bad  char- 
acter or  habit  is  formed,  to  counteract  that  impression,  not 
only  directly  but  as  quickly  as  possible.  These  conditions 
I  have  shown  my  principles  accomplish  in  the  most  perfect 
manner.  Here  we  are  compelled  to  view  the  various  rela- 
tions of  adaptation  to  our  wants  in  the  lower  animals  in 
general,  as  well  as  the  natural  conditions  of  our  supremacy 
to  them,  —  that  of  superior  intelligence  ;  because  man  has 


Fiery,  excitable  horse,  of  much  courage. 

the  power  to  see  and  understand  more  than  any  or  all  of 
them,  and  thereby  see  how  to  teach  and  control  them  for 
use,  —  in  a  higher  sense  having  all  the  functions  of  this 
variety  of  animal  nature  blended  in  himself.  In  under- 
standing his  own  nature,  he  is  able  to  see  and  understand 
each  of  theirs  ;  and,  to  get  a  correct  conception  of  principles 
which  should  govern  in  their  subjection,  we  must  see  by 
what  principle  can  the  corresponding  functions  in  our 
nature  be  influenced  and  controlled  most  easily.  Here, 
then,  we  are  naturally  brought  to  the  study  of  physiologi- 
cal laws  or  conditions,  as  manifested  in  the  head,  body, 
and  disposition,  showing  natural  divisions.  The  camel, 


ADAPTATION    FOR    SPECIAL    WANTS. 

gazelle,  goat,  tender,  sensitive,  and  docile  ;  the  hog, 

and  mule,  the  sulky  and  positive  ;  the  cat  or  feline,  that 

becomes  reckless  and  aggressive  by  excitement. 

ADAPTATION  FOR  SPECIAL  WANTS. 

I  would  here  call  attention  to  the  wonderful  ADAPTATION 

OF   THE    VARIOUS    CLASSES  of  the  DOMESTIC  ANIMALS  tO    the 

wants  and  requirements  of  the  people  in  different  sections 
and  locations  of  the  world  among  whom  we  find  them.  In 
the  extreme  north,  where  no  other  domestic  animal  could 
live,  we  find  a  dog  of  peculiar  nature,  adapted  to  the  wants 
of  the  Esquimaux,  as  a  beast  of  burden,  fisherman,  hunter, 
&c.,  and  subsisting  on  the  scantiest  fare  of  fish.  A  little  far- 
ther south,  the  Laplanders  have  the  reindeer,  which  not 
only  lives  and  thrives  with  ease  on  the  scanty  fare  of  the 
moss  peculiar  to  that  region,  but  supplies  the  people  with 
subsistence  in  the  way  of  milk,  butter,  and  cheese.  He 
travels  with  ease  and  rapidity  long  distances,  drawing  a 
heavy  sledge  over  the  frozen  regions,  easily  guided  and 
controlled  by  the  Laplander  as  he  sits  behind.  The  skin 
makes  the  best  of  clothing,  and  is  fabricated  into  various 
necessary  uses ;  while  the  flesh  is  indispensable  for  food. 
The  Peruvians  have  the  llama,  or  alpaca,  which,,  accus- 
tomed to  climb  the  mountains,  carries  heavy  burdens  over 
the  Andes,  and  furnishes  them  with  milk  for  their  children 
and  wool  for  their  clothing,  as  well  as  flesh  for  food.  The 
people  of  the  desert  have  the  camel  or  dromedary  for 
crossing  the  arid,  sandy  plains :  not  only  will  he  carry  a 
heavy  burden  patiently,  but  carries  within  himself  a  sup- 
ply of  water  to  last  him  for  a  week.  So,  as  a  servant,  the 
horse,  as  the  most  valuable  of  all  the  domestic  animals,  is 
singularly  well  adapted,  by  the  modifications  of  his  structure 
and  disposition,  for  the  various  wants  of  man.  For  quick, 
active  exertion,  we  have  the  lithe,  firm,  enduring  racer, 
capable  of  running  with  the  fleetness  of  the  wind.  For 
ploughing,  and  drawing  heavy  loads,  large  size,  square 
shoulders,  patient,  gentle  disposition,  willing  to  exert  him- 
self ,to  the  utmost  ;  but  in  a  slow  gait,  the  opposite  of  the 
quick,  nervous,  impulsive  thoroughbred,  with  the  form 
and  conformation  of  the  greyhound.  The  different  breeds 
or  families,  we  see,  run  into  illimitable  modifications,  which 
show  a  wonderful  adaptation  for  our  special  wants. 


• 

bear, 


4  EXTREMES    AND    MODIFICATIONS    OF    CHARACTER. 

EXTREMES    AND    MODIFICATIONS    OP    CHAKACTEK. 

Physiology  comprehends  the  whole  body,  —  the  depth  of 
lung,  circulation  of  the  blood,  texture  of  the  tissues,  and 
every  thing  down  to  the  molecular  structure  of  the  animal. 
Physiognomy  is  the  outside  expression  of  different  parts 
of  the  head,  as  shown  in  the  eye,  ear,  nostrils,  and  general 
measurement  of  the  features.  Every  part  must  correspond 
with  every  other  part  of  the  body,  and,  finally,  the  influence 
of  the  training,  to  arrive  at  a  correct  conclusion ;  else,  by 
being  mere  partialists,  or  looking  only  at  isolated  points, 
there  is  danger  of  arriving  at  a  wrong  conclusion,  very 
wide  of  the  mark.  One  man,  for  example,  takes  the  ear 
as  his  standpoint,  and  concludes  that  horses  having  ears 
of  the  same  shape  have  similar  characters.  Thus  he  con- 
cludes, that  if  a  horse  with  long  ears  has  kicked,  and 
broken  a  wagon,  you  had  better  look  out  for  every  horse 
with  long  ears,  because  they  will  do  the  same.  Another 
studies  the  eye,  and  judges  all  horses  by  that  organ  ; 
another,  the  nostrils  ;  others,  the  breadth  and  size  between 
the  ears,  &c.  In  studying  horses,  it  is  not  only  necessary 
to  study  the  head  as  an  index  to  their  characters,  but  we 
must  examine  every  part  of  them,  as  every  part  of  the 
body  bears  the  mark  and  impress  of  the  character. 

We  speak  of  certain  temperaments.     By  this  we  mean, 

that,  in  every  horse,  certain 
traits  of  character,  certain 
qualities  of  intelligence  and 
body,  predominate.  We 
have  three  distinct  tempera- 
ments, —  Lymphatic,  San- 
guine, and  Nervous.  We 
might  claim  several  other 
divisions ;  but  it  would  serve 
only  to  confuse  the  mind, 
without  giving  any  additional 
clearness.  We  do  not  often 
find  either  of  the  tempera- 
ments existing  alone,  •  but 
usually  combined  to  a  greater 
(No.  i.)  An  intelligent,  gentle  disposi-  or  less  degree  in  the  same 

tion.     Is  quick  to  leani,  not  nervous         •        i       m?  r       i 

or  irritable.   A  natural  pet.  animal.    The  most  perfectly- 


EXTREMES   AND    MODIFICATIONS    OF    CHARACTER.  5 

balanced  characters  are  when  the  three  temperaments  exist 
in  equal  proportions. 

The  LYMPHATIC  TEMPERA- 
MENT, or  class,  is  characterized 
by  large  bones  and  muscles, 
small  brain,  coarse  grain  and 
expression,  with  slow,  heavy 
movements.  There  is  more 
strength  than  action,  or  there 
is  not  spirit  enough,  except- 
ing for  a  short  time  after  rest 
and  idleness.  An  unbroken 
colt  of  this  temperament  may 
act  sulky  and  awkward.  If 
maddened  and  confused,  he 
will  lop  his  ears,  and  act  like  a 
mule  or  cow.  However  bad 
such  a  colt  may  act  at  first, 


he  will,  with  a  little  time  and  (No, 


,  A  very  intelligent,  gentle 
disposition,  not  so  active  and  spir- 
ited as  No.  1 ;  will  bear  a  great  deal 
of  abuse,  yet  quite  positive  when 
excited. 


patience,  work  easily  and 
safely;  for,  as  soon  as  he 
learns  to  obey  the  bit  readily, 
all  that  is  necessary  to  do  is 
to  put  him  in  harness  by  the 
side  of  a  gentle  horse,  and  he 
will  work  without  trouble.  It 
is  a  trifling  matter  to  make 
such  a  colt  gentle;  but  it  is 
sometimes  a  serious  thing  to 
make  him  do  any  thing  if 
(No.  3.)  starte,  one  of  Mr.  Robert  warmed  up  or  maddened.  He 

Bonner's    famous    trotters.      This  rn^v  f*\Tf>n  thrr»\w  Viirr»ct.lf  /-I/™ 

head  was  sketched  from  life  by  Mr.  ma>  eVen  tnro  w  nimselt  down, 

Frank  Beard,  for  the  writer,  and  is  without  Caring  to  get  up  ;  but, 

intended  to    represent    the    finest  ,  *      ,    i  •       j    f  • 

type  of  equine  character.    A  very  WnCll    nib    ClUil    mind  IS    given 

i^iffv'^mietS'm!,,,^?,,;   t!me  tO  **•  he  will  work    like 

yet  capable  of  the  greatest  eudur-   any   gentle    COlt.       ThlS    horse 

makes    the    patient,    willing 

worker.     If  whipped  or  abused,  he  seems  to  forget  it,  and 
is  seldom  a  balker. 


EXTREMES    AND    MODIFICATIONS    OF    CHARACTER. 


(No.  4.)    A  nervous,  sensitive  disposition ;  will  not 
bear  the  whip  or  abuse. 


The  SANGUINE  TEMPERAMENT  is  characterized  by  strong 

circulation  and 
great  blood-making 
powers;  the  chest 
is  deep,  giving 
plenty  of  freedom 
for  the  lungs  to  act ; 
the  digestion  is 
strong,  giving  ca- 
pacity for  making 
blood  rapidly,  as 
well  as  oxygenating 
it ;  they  have  conse- 
quently afirm,dense 
organization,  with 
quick,  strong  ac- 
tion, and  great  en- 
durance ;  the  head 
is  broad  between 
the  eyes;  the  eyes 
are  large,  clear,  and 
very  prominent,  showing  much  white ;  the  lids  are  smooth 
and  clear ;  the  ears  are  large,  not  very  wide  apart ;  the  nos- 
trils are  large  and  clean  cut.  This  temperament  is  quick 
to  learn  mischief, 
and  take  advantage 
of  bad  treatment  by 
resenting  and  fight- 
ing the  efforts  to  be 
subjected  to  con- 
trol. He  will  drive 
the  timid  man  out 
of  his  stall,  and 
show  a  will  of  his 
own  that  is  trouble- 
some, if  not  care- 
fully handled.  If 
the  blacksmith  is 
not  careful  in  hand- 
ling his  feet,  he  will 
be  likely  to  get  kicked  across  the  shop.  Pounding  and 


(No.  5.)    A  flighty,  nervous,  excitable  disposition, 
easily  spoiled  by  careless,  abusive  treatment. 


EXTREMES    AND    MODIFICATIONS    OF    CHARACTER. 


kicking  only  make  him  worse.  His  resistance  is  surpris- 
ing, for  he  is  usually  only  warming  into  his  fight  when  an 
ordinary  horse  would  submit  from  fatigue.  Among  this  class 
we  find  the  worst  runaways,  kickers,  and  the  hardest  pullers 
on  the  bit.  As  balkers,  they  will  have  their  own  way  or 
fight,  refusing  to  go,  if  even  subjected  to  the  trial  of  burn- 
ing straw  under  the  body.  When  roused  to  a  fight  their 
eyes  will  blaze  like 
coals  of  fire,  the  lips 
curl,  the  ears  lop 
backward,  indicat- 
ing willQi  the  most 
desperate  order. 
Whatever  he  does, 
he  does  with  the 
greatest  courage. 
The  colt  of  this 
temperament  is 
quick  to  take  ad- 
vantage of  any 

Carelessness  O  r    (No.  6.)    A  sulky,  treacherous  disposition,  showing 

wpa \c  n  pee       in       hie         great  endurance  and  courage.     1  f  a  kicker,  a  very 

bad,  determined  one,  will  contest  every  point; 

Control.  He      IS         but  when  treated  skilfully  and  kindly,  suscepti- 

ble of  being  very  safe  and  clever. 


liable  without  warn- 


(No.  7  )  A  jrood  representative  of  a  bad,  treach- 
erous disposition.  Will  show  his  temper 
whon  sweaty  and  warmed  up  by  being  sulky 
and  persevering  in  liis  resistance. 


ing  to  kick  the  wag- 
on and  run  away. 

Once  excited,  and 
learninghis  strength, 
he  is  a  restless,  im- 
pulsive brute,  liable 
to  do  more  damage 
in  a  few  moments 
than  he  is  worth. 
If  a  stallion,  that 
has  become  vicious, 
he  will  be  a  coura- 
geous fighter,  and  a 
dangerous  horse  to 
fool  with.  Dexter, 
Lantern,  Lady 
Thorne,  Flora  Tem- 
ple, Goldsmith  Maid, 


8 


EXTREMES    AND    MODIFICATIONS    OF    CHARACTER. 


and  the  majority  of  the  great  trotters,  including  some  of 

the  most  enduring 
roadsters,  are  of  this 
temperament.  Yet  it 
is  one  of  the  seemingly 
strange  contradictions 
of  nature,  which  I  have 
noticed  and  found  true 
in  the  horse,  that  this 
class,  when  managed 
skilfully  and  kindly, 
are  among  the  very 
best  and  safest  horses 
that  can  be  found ; 
making  fine,  reliable 
workers,  gentle  even 
for  a  woman  to  use  :  as 
the  sharpest  and  bright- 
est boys,  when  exposed 
to  bad  influence,  be- 
come, as  it  were,  em- 
bodiments of  deviltry, 
hard  to  prevent  or  over- 
come. The  Press  horse 
of  Gowanda,  N.Y.,  the 
Omnibus  horse  of  Buf- 


(No.  8.)  THE  HETTRICK  HORSE.  This  head 
was  sketched  by  Mr.  Beard  for  the  writer 
from  life,  and  represents  the  most  danger- 
ous, striking,  biting,  kicking  horse  handled 
by  him  in  New  York  city.  It  was  impossi- 
ble, with  safety,  to  touch  with  the  hand 
any  part  of  this  horse's  body.  After  about 
forty  minutes'  treatment  this  horse  was 
perfectly  safe  for  any  one  to  drive  or 
handle.  The  sketch  was  made  five  weeks 
after  treatment,  when  he  was  then  driven 
daily  before  a  hack. 


falo,  N.Y.,  the  Malone 
horse  of  Cleveland,  O.,  Wild  Pete  of  Petroleum  Centre, 
Pa.,  the  Wilkins  horse  of  New  York  City,  and  the  Hillman 
horse  of  Portland,  Me.,  —  and  in  fact  all  the  most  vicious 
horses  that  I  have  handled,  —  have  been  of  this  tempera- 
ment or  a  strong  modification  of  it.  The  change  it  is 
possible  to  make  in  the  character  of  horses  of  this  class, 
when  energetically  and  skilfully  treated,  is  often  really 
wonderful.  Wild  Pete,  a  nine-year-old  horse,  as  his  name 
implies,  was  so  fearfully  wild,  savage,  and  unmanageable 
as  to  be  utterly  worthless.  After  an  hour's  treatment  by 
me  in  a  field  (such  a  horse  could  not  be  broken  in  a  barn), 
he  was  perfectly  gentle,  safe  even  for  a  woman  or  child  to 
drive  anywhere,  and  was  used  and  let  afterwards  as  a  family 
horse.  I  will  refer  to  these  and  other  horses  more  particu- 
larly in  another  part  of  this  chapter. 


EXTREMES    AND    MODIFICATIONS    OF    CHARACTER. 


The  NERVOUS  TEMPERAMENT  is  characterized  by  large 
brain,  fine  sensitive  nerves,  small  stomach,  and  feeble  diges- 
tive powers ;  the  head  is  large  and  well  cut  in  every  part ; 
the  eyes  are  large,  clear, 
and  sensitive ;  the  ears 
are  small  and  firm ;  the 
head  is  short  from  eyes 
to  ears  ;  the  nostrils  are 
large  and  thin ;  there  is 
no  inclination  to  put  on 
flesh ;  the  hair  is  short 
and  fine.  He  is  a  spirited, 
energetic  driver,  does  not 
bear  the  whip,  and  is 
easily  made  to  overdo 
his  strength.  In  a  livery 
it  will  not  do  to  let  such 
a  horse  to  every  one,  for 
a  gentle,  careful  hand 
and  voice  must  guide 
him. 


(No.  9.)  A  good  sketch  of  an  excitable  dis- 
position; when  cool  is  quick  and  nervous; 
when  warmed  up  is  sulky  and  reckless. 
The  horse  that  has  the  hang-on  pluck. 


(No.  10.)  A  less  active  disposition  than  No. 
9,  but,  when  frightened  or  excited,  a  very 
positive  one. 


These  temperaments 
balance  and  modify  each 
other  to  a  certain  extent, 
making  the  characters 
in  accordance  with  the 
temperaments  predomi- 
nating. As  we  see  a 
predominance  of  any 
peculiarity  of  feature 
and  structure,  we  will 
see,  when  under  ex- 
citement, a  striking 
correspondence  of  dis- 
position and  character. 
For  example,  a  small 
round  eye,  set  well  back 
in  the  side  of  the  head  ; 
lids  heavy,  long  from 
eyes  to  ears ;  ears  long 
and  flabby,  set  wide , 


10        EXTREMES    AND    MODIFICATIONS    OF    CHARACTER. 


apart ;  forehead  narrow ;  a  rounding  nose,  small  nostrils,  — 

and  you  are  reminded 
of  the  sulkishness  and 
treachery  of  the  hog  or 
mule.  Whatever  he 
does,  when  mad,  is  with 
the  surly  recklessness 
of  this  disposition. 
Such  a  horse  will  give 
no  warning  of  what  he 
will  do  :  he  will  stand 
as  if  half  asleep,  appa- 
rently unmindful  of 
your  presence.  The 
ears  are  thrown  back, 
the  eyes  partly  closed  ; 
but  the  expression  of 

(No.  11.)  A  horse  of  no  spirit  or  action ;  will 
work  in  gently  from  the  start.  Is  a  gentle, 
willing  worker. 


the  eye,  when'  noted, 
will  reveal  cause  for 
danger,  for  what  he 


does  is  with  the 
quickness  and 
treachery  of  a 
snake.  If  black, 
gray,  or  sorrel,  and 
a  kicker,  he  will  be 
found  exceptiona- 
bly  bad:  ordinary 
treatment  by  the 
old  methods  of 
throwing,  &c.,  will 
be  likely  to  make 
such  a  horse  a  sour, 
dangerous  brute. 
The  opposite  ex- 
treme is  shown  by 
a  large  eye,  set  well 
out  in  the  corner 
of  the  head;  the 
lids  thin  ;  the  forehead  broad  and  full,  short  from  eye  to  ear  ; 
short  or  fine-pointed  ear ;  narrow  between  ears  ;  large  nos- 


(No.  12.)    A  regular  barn-yard  lunk-head.    As  a 
colt,  will  act  sullen  and  stupid. 


EXTREMES    AND    MODIFICATIONS    OF    CHARACTER.         11 

trils,  — and  you  have  a  horse  that  is  sensitive  and  impulsive, 
will  not  bear  the  whip,  naturally  gentle,  but  will  not  submit 
to  abuse,  because  sensitive  and  excitable,  and  reminds  one  of 
the  sheep.  Such  a  horse  can  be  won  by  kindness,  if  treated 
carefully,  to  do  most  any  thing.  Now,  if  we  put  more  white 
in  the  eye,  set  it  farther  back  in  the  side  of  the  head,  in- 
crease the  length  from  eye  to  ear,  make  the  ears  heavier 
and  longer,  round  the  ends,  and  set  them  wider  apart,  you 
will  have  the  naturally  sensitive  disposition,  easily  man- 
aged when  treated  kindly,  but,  excited  or  maddened,  will 
show  an  under  current  of  the  most  positive  will  and  cour- 
age in  extreme,  reminding  of  the  reckless  bull-dog  nature. 
With  a  large  brain,  heavy  ears,  but  rather  wide  apart ;  eyes 
large,  showing  much  white ;  eye-lids  thick  —  a  strong, 
powerful  organization  ;  in  repose,  quiet,  but  excited,  quick, 
and  dangerous,  a  sort  of  wildish,  snorting  expression  and  ac- 
tion, and  you  are  reminded  of  the  feline  or  cat  nature.  This 
is  the  horse  that  when  bad  is  a  reckless  fighter.  If  black, 
gray,  or  a  dirty  white,  heavy,  hanging  under  lip  and  large 
nostrils,  you  have  the  devil  if  you  ever  found  one  in  horse 
form.  The  whole  action  reminds  of  the  quick,  reckless, 
treacherous  cat-nature,  quiet  in  repose,  but  the  fury  of  des- 
peration when  excited  and  warmed  up.  If  much  white  in 
the  eye,  long  inner  corners,  sneakish,  sullen  expression,  you 
are  sure  to  have  a  horse  of  the  dirtiest,  meanest  nature, 
but  one  of  the  most  wonderful  endurance,  —  one  that  when 
spoiled,  warned  to  resistance,  you  will  have  a  horse  that 
will  resist  all  the  ordinary  methods  of  treatment. 

Let  me  here  give  you  a  little  special  advice,  though  I 
shall  call  special  attention  to  this  matter  in  another  part  of 
this  work.  When  you  suspect  having  this  kind  of  character, 
do  not  be  alarmed,  keep  cool,  and  prepare  carefully  for 
every  emergency.  When  ready,  push  rapidly,  using  one 
method  of  subjection  after  another,  making  every  point 
thoroughly.  The  whole  key  is,  to  work  so  quickly  as  to 
make  your  point  before  the  horse  warms  into  a  fight.  This 
is  one  of  the  important  points  of  real  success,  and,  in  par- 
ticular cases,  a  point  you  cannot  safely  neglect.  This  was 
the  key  to  my  subduing  so  easily  Wild  Pete,  and  all  this 
class  of  reckless,  desperate  fellows.  If  I  only  have  a  good 
yard  or  field,  I  make  short  work  as  I  can  of  such.  Many- 


12         EXTREMES    AND    MODIFICATIONS    OF    CHARACTER. 

a  time  have  I  astonished  myself  even  by  my  success  in  the 
subjection  of  horses  of  noted  vicious  characters  in  this 
way.  I  have  frequently  been  able  to  gain  complete  con- 
trol of  notedly-vicious  horses  in  less  than  thirty  minutes,  so 
they  would  be  gentle  to  drive  in  harness,  and  submit  to 
being  handled  with  perfect  safety  and  ease  in  less  than 
twenty  minutes ;  a  little  kind  treatment,  and  care  in 
driving  and  handling,  being  all  that  was  necessary  to  make 
them  entirely  safe  afterwards  for  any  one  to  use.  But  you 
must  always  handle  horses  that  are  really  bad  and  danger- 
ous out  in  the  field  or  yard,  where  there  is  good  sod  and 
no  stones.  It  adds  to  the  difficulty  and  danger  greatly  to 
be  confined  to  a  barn,  as  I  am  frequently ;  and  in  an  or- 
dinary barn,  with  a  crowd  of  people  around,  it  is  very  diffi- 
cult and  embarrassing.  The  change  I  can  make  in  the 
characters  of  colts  and  vicious,  kicking  horses,  in  illustrating 
my  principles,  seems  wonderful  to  the  class.  The  most  suc- 
cessful horse-breakers  are  surprised  to  see  how  quickly  and 
easily  we  can  drive  even  a  bad,  kicking,  runaway  colt  without 
breeching,  letting  the  shafts  come  against  the  quarters,  with- 
out showing  any  fear,  or  kicking.  Of  course,  the  great  point 
is  being  able,  as  I  can,  to  get  absolute  control  of  the  nervous 
system ;  which  I  can  do  with  entire  safety,  so  that  I  can 
neutralize  and  restrain  the  action  of  the  will  as  desired.  Of 
the  many  thousands  of  horses  in  my  varied  career  which  I 
have  reformed,  I  will  here  refer  to  a  few  of  the  most  noted. 
The  Press  horse,  referred  to  in  my  paper,  was  an  eight- 
year-old  sorrel,  with  large  brain,  deep  chest,  —  a  very 
strong,  courageous  animal, — owned  by  BILL  PRESS  of 
GOWANDA,  N.Y.  This  horse,  in  breaking,  became  fright- 
ened, kicked,  and  ran  away,  and  became  one  of  the  most 
furious,  desperate .  beasts  ever  known  in  that  country. 
Every  effort  having  failed  to  break  him  ;  and  it  being  deemed 
impossible  to  do  any  thing  with  him,  Press  brought  him  to 
Buffalo,  twenty-four  miles  distant,  -where  I  happened  to  be 
at  the  time.  The  horse  was  so  wild  and  dangerous,  that, 
as  the  owner  said,  "  ten  men  could  not  either  put  him  or 
hold' him  in  shafts."  There  was  a  good  deal  of  curiosity 
excited  to  see  if  such  a  horse  could  be  broken.  I  sub- 
jected him  to  first  and  second  methods  of  subjections, 
pushing  with  rapidity.  In  fifteen  minutes  I  had  the  horse 


EXTREMES    AND    MODIFICATIONS    OF    CHARACTER.         13 

under  complete  control,  hitching  up  and  driving  him 
gently.  The  lesson  was  repeated  twice,  the  last  being  out 
of  doors.  He  was  sold  in  Buffalo,  and  remained  perfectly 
gentle,  entirely  safe  for  any  one  to  drive  or  handle.  The 
Buffalo  OMNIBUS  COMPANY'S  HORSE  was  a  still  more  re- 
markable case.  This  horse  was  ten  years  old,  a  large 
blood  bay,  large,  clear  brain,  finely-balanced  organization, 
but  a  horse  of  decided  courage,  developing  a  remarkably 
vicious  character.  It  was  reported  that  he  killed  one  man, 
and  nearly  killed  several  others,  and  became  so  dangerous, 
that  it  was  decided  to  kill  him.  He  stood  in  his  stall  for 
three  months  ;  and,  during  that  time,  no  one  had  dared  to 
enter  it.  The  task  of  shooting  him  was  put  orf  from  day 
to  day.  Mr.  Ford,  the  agent,  on  my  personal  application, 
said  I  could  have  him,  but  I  must  take  my  own  chances 
with  him;  that  he  would  be  sure  to  kill  me,  &c.,if  he  could 
get  at  me.  I  advertised  this  horse  extensively  at  the  time 
(summer  of  1870),  and  made  a  large  class,  when  I  handled 
him.  I  subjected  this  horse  to  the  second  method,  imme- 
diately following  with  the  first ;  and  in  fifteen  minutes  the 
horse  was  completely  safe  and  gentle  to  handle.  In  a 
week  he  was  brought  back  for  trial,  and  he  was  perfectly 
gentle.  He  was  used  afterwards  with  entire  safety.  The 
subjection  of  this  horse  was  regarded  as  a  great  feat,  and 
was  one  of  the  best  of  my  life.  It  was  remarkable  on 
account  of  the  radical  change,  in  so  short  a  time,  in  the 
horse.  The  following  editorial  notice,  and  letter  months 
after  from  the  superintendent  of  the  stable,  will  show  the 
importance  of  his  subjection:  — 

Prom  Buffalo  (N.Y.)  "  Commercial  Advertiser." 

HORSE      THAT      KILLED      ONE      MAN,     AND       INJURED      SEVERAL 

OTHERS.  —  We  yesterday  'afternoon  visited  the  amphitheatre  of 
Prof.  Magner,  the  noted  horse-tamer,  on  Carroll  Street.  We  found 
there  a  large  number  of  our  most  prominent  citizens  and  horse- 
owners  ;  and  all  manifested  the  greatest  interest  in  the  doings  of  the 
professor. 

After  the  exhibition  with  his  wonderful  ponies,  a  horse  belonging 
to  the  Omnibus  Company  —  a  most  vicious  brute,  with  a  habit  of 
biting,  and  striking  with  his  fore-feet,  from  which  those  in  charge  have 
not  been  able  to  remove  the  collar  or  bridle  for  over  three  months  — 
was  brought  for  treatment.  We  understand,  by  the  way,  that  this 
horse  (a  large  and  powerful  bay)  once  killed  a  man  by  biting,  and 


14        EXTREMES   AND    MODIFICATIONS    OF    CHARACTER. 

trampling  him  under  foot,  and  recently  bit  the  hand  almost  off  the 
person  having  him  in  charge.  IN  TWENTY  MINUTES,  in  the  presence 
of  between  two  and  three  hundred  persons,  Prof.  Magner  reduced  this 
brute  to  perfect  subjection,  so  that  the  groom  and  himself  harnessed 
and  unharnessed  him,  put  their  hands  in  his  mouth,  and  handled  him 
in  every  shape  with  perfect  impunity,  the  formerly  furious  beast  being 
as  docile  as  a  kitten.  It  was  a  wonderful  exhibition,  as  we  can  bear 
testimony. 

Three  months  after  the  above  experiment,  Mr.  Ford,  the 
agent,  wrote  me  the  following  letter :  — 

BUFFALO,  Dec.  21,  1869. 
PROF.  MAGNER. 

Dear  Sir,  —  I  consider  myself  in  duty  bound  to  write  you  respect- 
ing our  once-vicious  horse,  "  Man-Eater  "  as  we  called  him.  I  have 
often  said,  "  What  a  good  thing  it  was  we  did  not  shoot  him  !  "  He  was 
taken  out  of  the  stable  twice  for  that  purpose,  when  I,  on  both  occa- 
sions, interceded  in  his  behalf.  He  is  now  one  of  our  best  horses,  as 
docile  as  a  lamb.  We  work  him  double  and  single,  as  required.  All 
this  was  caused  from  your  few  minutes'  tuition. 

Believe  me,  yours  very  truly, 

M.   FORD,  Agent, 
Btiffalo  Omnibus  Company. 

In  the  fall  of  1869  I  was  in  the  oil-regions  of  Pennsyl- 
vania. When  in  Titusville  my  attention  was  called  to  a 
remarkably  wild  horse  in  Petroleum  Centre,  owned  by  a 
livery-keeper,  named  Smawley.  This  horse  was  known  by 
the  name  of  WILD  PETE,  nine  years  old,  a  strong  bay  pony, 
weighing  about  nine  hundred  pounds.  This  horse  was  en- 
tirely wild,  every  effort  that  could  be  made  to  break  him 
having  failed.  He  could  not  even  be  harnessed,  and  was 
really  worthless.  When  I  went  to  this  place  WILD  PETE 
was  thrown  upon  me  as  a  menace  ;  and  the  difficulty  was,  I 
had  no  place  there  where  I  could  h'andle  such  a  horse  with 
success  and  safety.  I  induced  Mr.  Smawley  to  lead  him  up 
to  Titusville,  seven  miles  distant,  where  I  proposed  taking 
the  horse  in  hand  out  on  the  trotting-park.  After  one 
hour's  effort  I  had  the  hitherto  Wild  Pete  completely  gentle. 
I  drove  him  back  to  the  city,  and  that  evening  to  Petroleum 
Centre  •,  and  he  has  been  since  then  as  gentle  and  safe  a 
carriage-horse  as  any  in  the  stable,  and  has  been,  in  fact, 
used  as  a  family  carriage-horse. 


EXTREMES   AND    MODIFICATIONS    OF    CHARACTER.        15 

In  the  winter  of  '70  and  '71  I  went  to  Cleveland,  Ohio. 
I  was  received  by  the  citizens  with  so  much  prejudice,  that 
I  could  not  do  any  thing.  There  was  owned  in  the  city  a 
well-bred  rangy,  gray  gelding,  called  the  MALONE  HORSE, 
which  was  known  to  be  the  most  desperate,  kicking  runaway 
ever  known  in  the  West.  Being  a  promising  trotter,  every 
effort  by  the  best  trainers  to  break  him  had  failed.  To  drive 
this  horse  gently  would  be  a  great  card  ;  but  I  could  not  get 
him  for  the  experiment  without  purchasing.  I  got  him 
by  paying  a  large  price,  knowing  I  could  break  him,  and  sell 
him  when  gentle  at  what  I  paid,  which  I  did  ;  and  not  only 
made  this  horse  entirely  gentle  in  less  than  an  hour,  but  I 
trained  him  in  a  few  hours  to  drive  without  reins,  and  did 
drive  him  the  next  day  on  the  square  at  12  o'clock,  M.: 
showing  this  hitherto  desperate  horse  to  be  one  of  the 
gentlest  in  the  city ;  creating  thereby  so  great  a  sensation 
that  I  made  a  class  of  over  two  hundred  that  afternoon,  and 
was  the  sensation  of  the  city  for  several  weeks,  as  seen  by 
the  following  extracts  from  the  press  of  the  city  of  that 
date :  — 

From  the  Cleveland  (O.)  Leader,  February,  1870. 

"  But  the  great  sensation  of  the  evening  was  yet  to  come,  for  which 
all  were  anxious,  as  many  present  knew  the  vicious  nature  of  the  beast 
to  be  subdued  :  in  fact,  there  were  one  or  two  present  who  had  had 
good  cause  to  ever  remember  the  great  runaway  and  kicker  known  as 
the  'Malone  Horse.'  He  is  a  gray  gelding,  perhaps  sixteen  hands 
high,  of  great  beauty  and  strength,  and  a  will  and  determination  rarely 
found  in  a  purely  American  breed  of  horses.  His  owner  hesitated  at 
the  last  moment  to  give  his  consent  to  the  application  of  the  system. 
Mr.  Magner  was  determined  to  break  down  all  opposition  by  a  feat  of 
skill,  and  at  once  resolved  to  buy  this  horse  for  a  subject.  He  deter- 
mined to  have  a  subject,  asked  the  price  of  the  horse,  which  was 
announced  to  be  $500.  '  I'll  take  him,'  said  the  professor,  and  at  once 
handed  over  the  amount. 

"  At  this  stage  of  the  proceedings  the  excitement  was  intense,  and 
many  speculations  were  indulged  in  as  to  who  would  prove  the  victor, 
the  man  or  the  horse.  In  less  than  twenty  minutes  from  the  time  that 
Prof.  Magner  laid  his  hands  upon  his  subject,  the  horse  was  as 
gentle  as  a  lamb,  and  as  easily  controlled  as  the  most  reliable  family 
horse." 

From  Cleveland  Leader. 

"A  SERIOUS  ACCIDENT.  — While  Prof.  Magner  was  driving  along 
the  street,  following  after  the  'Arlington'  band-wagon,  people  would 
call  out  to  him,  'I  say,  Mister,  yer  holdback  straps  are  gone  !  yer'll 
have  a  runaway  if  yef  don't  look  out.'  And  while  crossing  the  rail- 


16        EXTREMES    AND    MODIFICATIONS    OF    CHARACTER. 

road  track  on  Ontario  Street,  to  avoid  the  jam  of  teams,  &c.,  the  rear 
wheels  of  his  buggy  were  struck  by  a  passing  street-car ;  the  axle-tree 
so  bent  that  one  of  the  wheels  would  not  revolve,  and  the  driver, 
buggy,  and  all  precipitated  forward  on  to  the  horse,  which  three  days 
ago  a  dozen  men  could  not  have  held  under  such  circumstances,  but 
with  no  bad  results  further  than  stated.  The  horse  did  not  seem 
alarmed,  and  bravely  stood  while  the  wreck  was  cleared  away  from 
the  track,  without  so  much  as  an  offer  to  kick,  fully  proving  the 
thoroughness  of  Magner's  system." 


In  the  fall  of  1873  I  was  in  Mansfield,  O.  In  all  my 
experience  I  was  never  met  with  such  prejudice  and  hos- 
tility as  in  this  town.  There  was  a  company  of  business 
men  there,  represented  by  McVAY,  JOLLY,  &  Co.,  who  went 
to  Kentucky,  and  bought  of  L.  L.  Dorsey,  the  noted  breeder 
of  Gold  Dust  stock,  three  young  mares  and  a  stallion,  for  the 
purpose  of  breeding  trotting-stock.  One  of  the  mares  was 
a  sorrel,  three  years  old,  and  so  noted  and  dangerous  a 
kicker  at  this  age,  that  she  was  purchased  at  a  greatly  re- 
duced price  in  consequence.  Being  a  fine  colt,  with  a  right 
to  trot  fast,  every  effort  was  made  to  break  her.  The  most 
skilled  horse-breakers  were  employed ;  and  when  seven 
years  old,  when  I  was  there,  she  was  given  up  as  worthless, 
and  considered  the  meanest  and  most  treacherous  kicker  in 
that  country.  She  would  squeal  and  kick  when  the  barn- 
door was  opened ;  and  it  was  out  of  the  question  to  go  into 
her  stall  safely,  and  no  one  attempted  to  do  so  for  years. 
To  have  a  little  fun  with  me,  and  "  take  the  starch  out  of 
me,"  as  Mr.  McVay  afterwards  stated,  the  owners  told  their 
trainer  to  join  my  class  and  bring  the  mare,  not  supposing 
such  a  mare  could  be  broken  ;  and  being  too  mean  to  breed 
from,  she  was  regarded  as  worthless,  and  they  did  not  care 
if  she  was  abused  and  injured.  All  sorts  of  rigging  and 
treatment  had  been  tried  upon  the  mare  to  no  purpose  : 
she  was  hampered  in  every  possible  manner,  including  the 
most  severe  whippings,  through  all  of  which  she  had  fought 
successfully.  She  was  of  a  sorrel  color,  seven  years  old,  of  a 
medium  size,  extremely  strong,  fine  texture  of  body  :  though 
abused  most  fearfully,  she  did  not  show  the  least  blemish 
or  injury  ;  altogether  she  was  a  perfect  model  of  great 
vitality  and  endurance.  The  eye  was  of  medium  size, 
well  back  in  the  side  of  the  head,  heavy  eye-lids,  forehead 


EXTREMES    AND    MODIFICATIONS    OF    CHARACTER.        17 

narrow,  very  long  from  eyes  to  ears,  ears  long,  wide  apart 
and  thrown  back  and  out.  The  nose  was  a  little  rounding, 
nostrils  large,  heavy  under  lip.  She  was  one  of  the  best 
types  I  ever  saw  of  the  cool,  cunning,  reckless  fighter.  In 
about  forty  minutes  I  had  her  under  complete  control, 
driving  her  in  the  street,  to  the  surprise  of  every  one,  per- 
fectly gentle.  McVay  met  me  in  Newark,  O.,  about  a  month 

afterwards.     Said  he,   "  Magner,   by   G ,  my  mare  is 

broke,  and  is  to-day  the  safest  and  best  mare  in  Richland 
County.  I  use  her  for  my  family  driving.  Going  down 
hill  a  while  ago,  with  my  children  in  with  me,  the  breeching 
broke,  letting  the  shafts  upon  her  heels.  She  never  moved 
or  kicked,  or  offered  to  :  the  change  is  wonderful,  and  all 
the  result  of  what  you  did  with  her."  But  he  never  said, 
"  Thank  you,"  or  gave  me  a  dollar,  though  I  had  added 
hundreds  of  dollars  to  the  value  of  the  mare.  After  sub- 
jecting the  mare  to  treatment  before  the  class,  and  driving 
her  in  the  street,  I  ordered  the  trainer  to  treat  her  kindly, 
test  her  thoroughly,  and  if  necessary  repeat  the  lesson  until 
he  was  sure  of  success.  In  any  event  he  must  treat  her 
with  great  kindness,  to  take  no  needless  chances  of  failure. 
He  did  not  find  it  necessary  to  repeat  the  treatment,  simply 
drove  her  a  few  hours  daily,  and  the  reformation  was  com- 
plete. 

When  in  New- York  City  Mr.  Hettrick,  who  kept  a  livery 
stable,  corner  Thirtieth  Street  and  Sixth  Avenue,  bought  on 
Twenty-fourth  Street  a  remarkably  vicious  Western  horse, 
for  a  mere  trifle,  on  account  of  his  vicious  character.  This 
horse  was  a  large,  high-headed  sorrel :  he  was  so  very  wild 
and  dangerous  that  I  found  it  impossible,  even  when  tied  by 
the  halter  to  the  centre-pole  of  the  canvas,  to  touch  any  part 
of  his  body.  He  would  strike  and  kick  as  desperately  as 
any  wild,  vicious  horse  from  the  plains.  He  would  snort, 
strike,  and  kick  at  any  one  who  went  near  him.  It  was  with 
great  difficulty  that  I  could  get  my  hands  upon  him  safely  ; 
but  once  able  to  get  to  him,  I  had  him  under  complete  control 
in  thirty  minutes,  and  he  was  perfectly  gentle  afterwards  to 
drive  to  carriage  or  hack.  As  a  good  type  of  bad-looking 
head  and  disposition,  I  give  an  accurate  sketch  of  this 
horse's  head,  taken  five  weeks  after  being  broken  and  used 
to  a  hack  daily.  I  will  refer  to  but  one  more  interesting 


18  NOTED    HORSES.  —  HILLMAN    HORSE. 

case,  because  of  recent  occurrence,  —  the  Hillman  horse,  of 
Portland,  Me.  This  horse  could  not  be  handled  at  all. 
He  would  kill,  if  he  could,  any  one  going  near  him.  A 
grand-son  of  Gen.  Knox,  known  as  one  of  the  best  trot- 
ting sires  in  New  England,  and  one  of  the  finest  formed 
colts  in  Maine,  every  effort  was  made  to  break  him.  He 
would  bite,  strike,  and  kick  ;  he  had  the  eye  and  expression 
of  a  bull-dog,  and  was  known  throughout  the  State  as  the 
most  dangerous  horse  ever  known  in  New  England  or  in 
this  country.  He  stood  for  nine  months  in  a  building, 
without  any  hope  of  ever  being  broken,  unless  I  could  do 
it.  Yet  I  was  able  to  bring  this  horse  under  the  most 
complete  control  in  less  than  thirty  minutes,  so  that  others 
could  handle  and  drive  him  afterwards  with  entire  safety. 

NOTED  HORSES. -HILLMAN  HORSE. 

The  following  from  the  Portland  "  Argus"  and  "  Press,"  of 
that  date,  will  give  a  good  idea  of  the  desperate  character 
of  this  horse,  the  importance  of  the  feat  of  his  subjection, 
and  the  success  of  the  experiment. 

From  the  Portland  (Me.)  Argus,  Friday,  June  23, 1876. 

Yesterday  morning  Prof.  D.  Magner,  whose  skill  as  a  tamer  of  vicious 
horses  is  almost  proverbial,  accompanied  by  a  number  of  well-known 
gentlemen,  left  this  city  and  rode  out  to  the  residence  of  Rev.  A.  P. 
Hillman,  to  try  his  skill  at  subduing  Mr.  Hillman's  stallion  "Jet," 
which  has  the  reputation  of  being  the  most  uncontrollable  and  the 
most  savage  dispositioned  stallion  in  this  State. 

On  arriving  at  Mr.  Hillman's  quite  a  number  of  the  neighbors  were 
found  gathered  about  the  stable,  anxious  to  see  the  handsome  but 
vicious  "Jet "  led  forth  from  the  box-stall  in  which  he  had  been  kept 
ever  since  last  September.  The  stall  in  which  "Jet"  has  been  kept 
in  close  confinement  for  nearly  nine  months  past,  is  so  arranged  that 
his  food  and  water  can  be  given  him  without  any  chance  for  the  fierce 
brute  to  fix  his  glittering  teeth  into  his  feeder's  arm  or  shoulder,  or 
strike  him  with  his  feet. 

When  Magner  first  entered  the  stall,  the  demon  in  the  brute 
showed  itself  in  the  most  striking  manner  by  frantic  efforts  to  seize 
him  with  his  teeth,  rushing  around  his  narrow  quarters  like  a  caged 
tiger,  while  the  red  flash  of  his  wild  eyes  would  have  deterred  many 
strong  men  from  approaching  him.  A  large  number  of  people  in- 
terested in  horses,  including  nearly  every  physician  in  the  city,  were 
assembled  at  this  place,  on  the  stallion's  arrival. 

At  ten  o'clock,  the   time   appointed  for  the   trial,  Prof.  Magner 


EXACTING    EXPERIMENTS.  19 

cleared  the  place  of  all  spectators,  excepting  those  holding  tickets  of 
invitation  from  the  committee  having  charge. 

Of  course  the  peculiar  method,  by  which  in  a  wonderfully  brief 
time,  the  most  savage  stallion  in  the  State  was  so  completely  con- 
quered that  he  was  harnessed  to  a  carriage  and  driven  by  the  Profes- 
sor around  the  enclosed  yard,  fast  or  slow,  as  suited,  as  well  as 
backing,  stopping  instantly  at  the  word  "  whoa,"  besides  various  other 
things,  all  proving  that  the  demon  had  been,  temporarily  at  least, 
exorcised,  cannot  be  stated,  but  it  was  surely  done. 

The  savage  brute,  after  undergoing  Magner's  course  of  treatment, 
would  allow  himself  to  be  petted  and  caressed  by  any  one  present, 
without  the  least  manifestations  of  ill  temper. 

From  the  Portland  (Me.)  Press. 

The  announcement  that  the  well-known  Hillman  horse  was  to  be 
trained  at  the  South-street  stable,  drew  a  large  crowd  yesterday  morn- 
ing, as  this  horse  is  known  to  be  one  of  the  worst  cases  on  record, 
Some  few  gentlemen,  including  representatives  of  the  morning  papers, 
took  carriages,  and  drove  out  to  the  residence  of  Rev.  A.  P.  Hillman, 
near  the  Reform  School,  to  see  Prof.  Magner  in  his  first  attempt  to 
handle  the  animal.  In  this  condition  "  Jet "  was  led  from  the  stall  for 
the  first  time  in  eight  months.  The  line  of  march  was  taken  up  for  the 
city,  a  man  on  either  side  holding  by  the  cords  attached  to  him.  All 
the  residents  on  the  way  were  in  waiting  to  see  the  wonderful  horse 
pass  ;  and  on  reaching  the  city  a  large  crowd  followed  the  horse  and 
his  trainer  to  the  stable. 

The  stable  was  thronged  on  the  arrival ;  and  after  giving  the  horse 
a  slight  rest,  Prof.  Magner  commenced  upon  him.  We  cannot  give 
the  method  of  treatment :  suffice  it  to  say,  he  worked  on  the  horse  just 
twenty-five  minutes,  when  the  striking,  dangerous  horse  was  as  mild 
as  a  lamb.  He  was  turned  loose,  and  wandered  about  among  the 
horsemen  as  though  he  was  an  old  truck-horse.  The  trainer  jumped 
upon  his  back,  and  afterwards  harnessed  him  to  a  wagon,  and  drove 
about  without  the  least  strap  to  keep  the  wagon  from  striking  his 
heels. 

"  The  rear  of  the  procession  was  brought  up  by  the  recently  tamed 
Hillman  stallion.  In  all  the  noise  and  confusion,  he  went  along  as 
gentle  as  an  old  family  horse."  —  Portland  Advertiser y  July  5. 

The  Famous  Hillman  Horse  in  the  Procession. 

"Last,  but  not  least,  was  Prof.  Magner,  driving  the  Hillman  stal- 
lion. This  was  the  interesting  part  of  the  procession,  considering 
that  the  horse  which  he  was  now  driving  as  gently  as  any  family  horse 
was  a  few  weeks  ago  considered  wholly  unmanageable."  —  Portland 
Press,  July  6. 

EXACTING  EXPEBIMENTS. 

I  could  refer  to  a  large  number  of  remarkable  cases, 
showing  the  power  and  value  of  my  treatment,  in  reform- 


20  EXACTING    EXPERIMENTS. 

ing  and  making  entirely  gentle,  horses  that  had  defied  for 
years  the  greatest  efforts  of  the  best  horse-breakers.  It  is 
a  matter  of  almost  daily  occurrence,  in  making  experiments 
before  the  class,  to  hitch  up  and  drive  in  harness  gently, 
in  from  ten  to  twenty  minutes,  horses  that  either  never  had 
been  in  harness,  or  had  been  so  badly  frightened,  and 
made  to  kick,  as  to  be  entirely  unmanageable.  The  average 
of  such,  are,  in  fact,  so  easily  made  gentle  by  my  treatment, 
that  we  take  in  hand  before  the  class,  daily,  several  of  the 
most  vicious  colts  and  horses  that  can  be  produced  ;  and 
without  exception,  make  the  worst  of  them  to  drive  in  har- 
ness without  offering  to  kick,  though  the  shafts  strike  the 
quarters  freely,  showing  the  most  perfect  control.  It  is  no 
exaggeration,  or  egotism,  to  assert  that  such  results  are 
beyond  all  comparison  the  greatest  of  the  present  or  any 
former  age,  in  the  art  of  training  and  reforming  horses. 

I  give  the  widest  latitude  for  experiments;  and  it  is  sel- 
dom a  horse  or  colt  is  found  of  a  character  so  vicious,  that 
I  am  not  able  to  control  and  drive  him  gently  in  from  ten 
to  twenty  minutes. 

There  is  a  point  I  would  here  call  your  attention  to.  It 
is  that  horses  that  have  the  reputation  of  being  bad,  and 
are  really  vicious  and  dangerous,  are  not  always,  by  any 
means,  the  most  difficult  to  break  or  require  the  most  time 
and  care.  The  most  skill  and  the  most  effort  will  often  be 
demanded  in  the  management  of  cases  that  are  not  known 
to  be  bad  or  vicious. 

It  is  the  cool,  almost  calculating  fighter;  the  mare  that 
seems  gentle  in  all  places  but  one,  and  then  she  is,  perhaps, 
lightning  itself  in  contesting  the  efforts  ;  perhaps  it  is  the 
balker,  that  will  resist  only  at  one  point,  at  all  others  a 
pleasant  worker.  While  the  average  of  these  minor  habits 
yield  readily  to  treatment,  —  a  matter,  perhaps,  of  a  few 
minutes'  work,  —  you  may  find  cases  that  will  call  for  as 
much  or  more  real  skill  and  effort  to  break  up  than  is  ne- 
cessary to  break  horses  regarded  and  known  to  be  very  bad. 
If  you  find  one  of  these  give-and-take,  treacherous  cases, 
you  must  make  your  point  clear  and  sure  ;  make  your  fight 
quick  and  decisive  if  you  can,  and  always  in  the  position 
and  place  of  resistance. 


EXPERIENCE   AND   CONFIDENCE.  21 

EXPERIENCE  AND  CONFIDENCE  NOT  TO  BE  DE- 
PENDED UPON. 

When  about  leaving  New  York,  a  well-known  gentleman, 
a  personal  friend,  requested  that  I  would  remain  a  day  and 
show  a  horse-breaker,  a  man  who  attended  all  the  horse- 
taming  schools  in  that  city,  a  naturally  good  fellow,  but  crude 
in  his  ideas,  how  to  manage  a  trotting  mare  he  had  just 
purchased.  She  was  high-toned,  eager,  courageous,  and 
plucky,  and  had  been  subjected  to  severe  treatment,  but 
she  would  resent  the  drudgery  of  any  heavy  pulling  or  rough 
handling,  and  was  acting  badly.  This  man  worked  her, 
and  insisted  upon  hitching  her  to  a  heavy  express  wagon. 
That  is  just  what  you  should  not  do  with  this  mare,  I 
insisted,  and  you  will  only  spoil  her  by  persisting  in  doing 
so.  I  obtained  a  light  sulky,  walked  her  gently  at  first, 
then  let  her  out  on  a  trot,  and  soon  could  let  her  out  as  I 
pleased,  under  any  excitement,  without  trouble.  The  mare 
only  needed  working  up  slowly  and  carefully,  and  with, 
perhaps,  a  few  touches  at  the  right  time  and  place,  would 
have  worked  in  nicely ;  but  worked  as  she  had  been,  and 
by  such  a  man,  I  should  regard  it  almost  a  miracle  to  make 
her  work  successfully  without  breaking  down  her  constitu- 
tion, or  spoiling  her. 

A  three-year-old  thorough-bred  colt,  of  a  very  high- 
strung,  bad  disposition,  was  presented  in  New  York  to  be 
driven  in  harness.  I  subjected  the  colt  to  treatment,  and 
soon  had  her  in  harness ;  she  knew  nothing  of  the  bit  or 
rein.  Being  overworked  and  limited  in  time,  I  told  a  man 
who  had  been  with  me  for  years  and  worked  well,  to  hitch 
up  and  drive  this  colt  gently,  and  by  all  means  not  to 
excite  her,  — to  take  his  time,  work  her  slowly  ;  that  on  any 
account  he  must  not  excite  her.  But  treating  her  as  he 
would  a  common  colt,  and  getting  her  mad,  she  resisted 
the  most  severe  and  abusive  treatment,  which  he,  by  losing 
his  temper,  inflicted  in  his  effort  to  drive  her.  The  conse- 
quence was,  the  colt  was  not  fit  to  be  seen  or  handled  for 
two  weeks.  The  owner  generously  overlooked  the  mat- 
ter ;  and  when  over  the  effects  of  the  abuse,  in  twenty 
minutes  I  was  able  to  drive  her  as  I  desired,  gently,  and 
did  so  successfully  in  the  presence  of  her  owner,  without 
the  least  excitement  or  trouble. 


22  A   PECULIAR  CASE. 

I  refer  to  these  cases,  to  show  that  assumed  experience 
is  not  all  that  is  demanded.  Behind  all  this,  patient, 
sound  judgment  is  necessary  in  working  horses  of  a  sensi- 
tive but  courageous  character. 

A  PECULIAR  CASE. 

In  my  long  experience,  I  have  had  many  peculiar 
phases  of  equine  nature  to  deal  with ;  to  one  or  two  of  a 
very  unusual  type  of  resistance  I  will  here  allude.  In 
the  winter  and  spring  of  1868,  I  made  a  campaign  in  Mis- 
sissippi, at  a  place  north  of  Pickens  Station.  I  had  a 
large  class  and  only  one  subject,  a  sleepy-looking,  nine- 
year-old  sorrel,  of  medium  size,  half  mustang  and  half 
thoroughbred.  He  worked  nicely  until  put  in  harness, 
where  he  kicked  with  all  the  desperation  of  a  maniac.  It 
was  a  cool,  sullen,  desperate  struggle :  beyond  all  compar- 
ison the  worst  I  ever  had  found.  I  could  not  drive  the 
horse  in  the  time  I  advertised,  without  his  kicking,  and 
offered  to  give  each  his  money  back,  but  they  would  not 
let  me  off  in  that  way.  They  said,  "  We  want  you  to  drive 
that  horse,  as  you  advertised."  I  did  every  thing  possible 
to  break  him,  but  it  was  all  a  complete  failure  ;  he  would 
kick  in  defiance  of  all  I  could  do.  I  worked  all  day  upon 
the  horse,  and  when  night  came  could  not  see  that  I  had 
made  the  least  headway  toward  success.  He  would  kick 
in  the  same  cool,  terrible  manner :  when  held  too  closely, 
he  would  settle  down  on  his  belly  like  a  hog,  and  sulk. 
(Did  not  have  passive  treatment  then,  which  would  have 
controlled  this  case  easily.)  I  did  all  tflat  human  skill 
could  do,  and  it  was  a  complete  failure  ;  and,  with  the  state 
of  public  feeling  shown,  I  felt  my  life  would  be  endangered 
if  I  failed  to  subdue  the  brute.  The  next  morning  I  felt 
sore  and  tired.  After  breakfast  I  went  out  and  found  the 
horse  looking  and  feeling  as  well  as  ever ;  and,  to  look  at 
him  in  the  stall,  he  seemed  as  gentle  as  any  family  horse : 
his  mouth  only  showed  the  effects  of  the  struggle  •  for  that 
was  pretty  sore  from  the  use  of  the  breaking-bit,  which  I 
used  then  in  a  much  less  effective  form  than  I  do  now.  I 
put  on  the  harness,  and  a  gentle,  sharp  pull  made  him 
give  to  the  bit  freely.  My  blood  was  up,  and  I  sent  that 
horse  back  against  the  reach  of  an  old  lumber  wagon 


A  PECULIAR    CASE.  23 

which  happened  to  be  near.  The  first  the  horse  knew,  I  had 
him  back  between  the  wheels,  and  his  hindquarters  against 
the  reach,  which  came  well  above  the  gambrels.  The  fel- 
low tried  to  kick  at  least  fifty  times ;  but  with  the  soreness 
of  the  mouth  and  the  power  of  the  bit,  I  was  able  to  keep 
him  so  tight  against  the  reach,  that  he  could  not  kick  over. 
Finding  himself  mastered,  he  gave  a  sort  of  shiver,  and 
my  success  was  complete,  for  he  could  not  be  made  to 
kick  afterwards.  He  was  completely  docile.  A  week 
after  I  drove  him  on  the  square  at  Carlton,  thirty  miles 
from  there.  He  proved  absolutely  gentle  and  safe,  and  I 
was  voted  "  all  right."  I  did  not  know  then,  what  I  have 
learned  since,  that  the  point  of  success  in  subjection  of 
these  cold-blooded  fellows  is  by  one  or  two  sharp  lessons, 
to  make  them  sore  and  sensitive,  when  they  will  work 
easily :  no  matter  how  reckless  and  sulky  they  act  at 
first,  when  they  get  cool,  after  a  sharp  lesson  or  two,  they 
will  work  in  nicely. 

When  in  Buffalo,  N.Y.,  a  horse  was  brought  in  that 
would  run  away.  He  had  been  gentle :  but,  getting  ex- 
cited, learned  to  resist  all  control  of  the  mouth.  Power- 
reins  and  bits  of  the  most  savage  character  were  alike 
unavailing.  When  warmed  up,  he  would  run  against  the 
bit  and  get  away,  regardless  of  the  pulling  of  several  men 
on  the  reins.  Under  canvas  the  horse  submitted  to  the 
breaking-bit  readily ;  but  when  I  took  him  out  of  doors,  as 
I  suspected,  he  was  regardless  of  all  restraint,  lunging 
against  the  bit  desperately.  But  having  taken  every  ne- 
cessary precaution  for  safety,  I  commenced  back  again, 
getting  good  control  on  a  walk.  I  gained  little  by  little, 
until  I  could  let  him  out  on  a  sharp  trot,  and  bring  him 
back  easily,  requiring  an  hour's  work.  Next  day  I  knew 
would  be  the  test  of  deciding  the  contest.  Never  before 
did  I  find  such  savage,  cool  resistance ;  and  my  only  re- 
source was  to  take  time  and  intensify  my  impression  upon 
the  mouth,  which  was  my  only  reliable  resource  to  make  the 
horse  safe.  Next  morning  I  found  the  horse,  after  warm- 
ing up,  to  be  fearfully  wilful  and  reckless.  I  forced  him 
again  carefully,  repeating  the  same  routine  of  working  up 
from  a  walk  to  a  fast  trot  and  run  until  there  was  no  in- 
clination to  continue  the  contest, — finally  exciting  him  all 


24  SULKY  COLTS. 

I  could,  until  there  was  no  inclination  to  pull  or  resist  the 
bit.  This  time  I  worked  faithfully  several  hours  to  make 
my  point,  but  was  completely  successful.  This  horse  was 
of  a  nervous-sanguine  temperament,  a  bright  bay,  medium- 
sized  eyes,  forehead  rather  narrow,  long  from  eyes  to  ears, 
a  good  deal  of  white  in  the  eye ;  as  a  colt  was  gentle, 
broke  in  easily  (so  reported),  trotted  quite  fast ;  from  the 
ambition  and  excitement  of  warming  up  in  driving,  pulled 
so  hard  as  to  get  away,  and  afterwards  became  perfectly 
regardless  of  all  control  of  the  bit.  Now  I  am  able  to 
make  horses  of  this  habit,  with  rare  exceptions,  entirely 
safe  and  gentle  in  from  thirty  minutes  to  an  hour.  The 
point  was  simply  to  hang  on,  and  repeat. 

SULKY  COLTS. 

There  is  another  type  of  extreme,  usually  colts,  I  fre- 
quently find,  which  are  apparently  very  bad,  and  which  I 
hate  above  almost  any  other  horse  to  handle  before  a 
class  j  and  yet  they  are  always  sure  to  work  in  safely  and 
nicely  by  taking  time  and  repeating  the  lesson.  The  colt 
that  will  at  first  act  nervous  and  excitable,  when  warmed 
up  will  show  a  surly,  mulish  disposition,  perhaps  has 
learned  to  throw  himself  down.  I  will  refer  to  the  best 
case  of  the  kind  we  had  during  the  past  year.  When  at  a 
little  point  in  Maine,  called  Exeter,  in  September,  1876, 
a.  four-year-old  sorrel  colt,  of  medium  size,  was  brought 
forward  by  the  owner,  who  proposed  joining  the  class  if  I 
would  handle  the  colt.  The  colt  seemed  very  nervous ; 
was  led  by  a  big  rope  halter.  The  skin  was  torn  in  sev- 
eral places  on  the  hips  and  legs.  When  harnessed  the 
colt  would  lunge,  and  throw  himself  over  backwards  :  he 
\vould  kick  fearfully  when  an  effort  was  made  to  handle 
the  feet,  or  shoe  him.  Bound  to  shoe  him  at  all  hazards, 
they  put  him  in  an  ox-frame,  fastening  him  securely ;  but 
he  struggled  so  violently  that  it  was  found  necessary  to 
let  the  brute  go  without  being  shod.  Both  hocks  were  en- 
larged, showing  blood  spavins,  from  the  strain  and  reck- 
lessness of  his  struggles.  He  would  break  his  halter,  or 
pull  himself  down  recklessly,  when  hitched.  The  colt,  in 
a  word,  was  entirely  unmanageable,  and  really  worthless, 
having  resisted  every  effort  to  break  him.  I  described  in 


SULKY   COLTS.  25 

detail  the  exact  type  of  the  character,  and  how  he  would 
act  under  excitement,  or  not.  There  was  no  other  horse 
to  illustrate  principles  with ;  and  it  was  a  matter  of  curi- 
osity to  see  if  the  colt  would  act  as  I  predicted.  There  is 
no  great  difficulty  in  making  colts  of  this  nature  gentle ; 
but,  as  they  warm  up,  they  become  so  sullen  and  reckless 
that  they  will  not  do  any  thing,  paying  no  regard  to  the 
sharpest  cut  of  a  whip,  or  of  other  means  of  producing 
pain.  The  ears  will  lop  out  and  back,  like  a  hog's ;  the 
legs  are  spread  ;  the  eyes  are  sullen  in  expression ;  the 
whole  impulse  is  one  of  surly  desperation,  lunging  against 
or  upon  any  thing,  refusing  to  be  led,  and  throwing  him- 
self down.  It  is  never  safe  or  prudent  to  handle  such  a 
horse  before  a  class,  as  they  think  it  is  a  fault  of  the 
treatment  that  the  colt  should  act  so  sullen.  The  majority 
of  people  cannot  see  any  difference  in  horses.  They  are 
expecting,  any  way,  to  see  a  horse  give  right  up  to  treat- 
ment, and  are  disappointed  if  there  is  any  apparent  want 
of  success.  No  matter  how  bad  a,  large-brained,  nervous- 
tempered  colt,  he  will  submit  readily  to  treatment,  and 
drive  with  entire  freedom  :  but  the  cool  sulkers  at  first 
will  not  do  any  thing  ;  and  it  would  seem  as  if  they  could 
not  be  made  to  work  gently,  yet  with  a  little  care,  when  they 
get  cool,  they  always  work  in  safely  and  surely.  But  the 
class  can  never,  though  good  horsemen,  see  this,  and  are 
liable  to  find  fault,  and  expose  me  to  great  embarrassment. 
In  this  case,  after  an  hour's  effort,  it  was  only  with  the 
greatest  difficulty  the  colt  could  be  made  to  move  or  drive 
in  harness,  and  the  owner  was  disappointed  because  I 
would  not  guarantee  that  he  could  be  hitched  up  to  a  car- 
riage and  driven  home,  and  be  gentle  afterwards.  Two 
days  after  this  the  colt  was  hitched  up  and  driven  gently  to 
a  point  seventeen  miles  away,  where  I  was  at  the  time  giv- 
ing an  exhibition  ;  was  driven  in  the  crowd  without  breech- 
ing, entirely  gentle,  and  proving  gentle,  was  sold  a  week 
after  for  a  good  price.  If  a  colt  or  horse  develops  any  of 
these  extremes  of  resistance,  you  are  not  by  any  means  to 
be  discouraged,  or  think  you  must  fail.  Go  to  work  more 
cautiously  and  thoroughly  :  do  not  be  in  a  hurry ;  make 
the  most  of  every  point  gained.  Take  your  time  ;  for  time 
you  must  have  to  get  the  blood  cool,  so  that  you  can 


26  INSANITY. 

appeal  to  the  intelligence,  and  act  with  success  upon  the 
better  part  of  the  nature  ;  and  you  must  succeed. 

I  never  drive  a  horse,  or  advise  driving  one,  while  he  is 
touchy,  and  liable  to  try  to  resist  control.  I  aim  to  make 
the  foundation  first  of  the  most  perfect  docility,  so  that  if 
the  breeching  should  break  and  let  the  wagon  come 
against  the  quarters,  or  any  other  unusual  cause  of  fear 
occur,  to  have  the  horse  under  such  perfect  control,  that 
he  will  submit  to  command  without  showing  fear  or  excite- 
ment. If  I  cannot  do  this  safely  after  one  treatment,  I  re- 
peat it,  and  test  the  horse  until  I  can.  This  point  of  being 
patient,  careful,  and  thorough,  is  what  is  wanted.  When  I 
took  in  hand  the  famous  Malone  horse  of  Cleveland,  I 
was  not  satisfied  to  stop  when  the  horse  drove  gently : 
I  subjected  him  to  the  most  thorough  and  exacting  trials 
to  prove  his  docility.  It  was  because  of  this  thoroughness 
of  treatment,  which  did  not  in  all  require  more  than  an 
hour's  time,  that  I  was  able  to  insure  his  entire  safety. 

At  one  time  a  passing  street-car  ran  into  my  wagon, 
and  crushed  it  against  the  quarters.  At  another,  when 
trotting  rapidly,  one  of  the  clips  connecting  the  shaft  to 
the  axle  broke.  The  horse  stopped  instantly  at  command, 
without  showing  the  least  inclination  to  kick  or  run  away,  — 
one  of  the  most  exciting  trials  a  horse  could  be  subjected 
to.  The  object  should  be  to  make  the  horse  really  safe; 
and  it  is  the  highest  proof  of  skill  to  do  this  without  ac- 
cident or  failure. 

INSANITY. 

Another  point  for  consideration  is,  that  the  horse  is 
liable  to  be  insane,  or  of  having  the  nervous  system  broken 
down,  and  that  such  causes  of  derangement  are  traceable 
to  definite  sources.  To  a  superficial  observer,  all  horses 
that  look  alike  appear  the  same  to  them  ;  and  they  are  sur- 
prised and  vexed  if  they  find  a  horse  that  does  not  seem 
to  yield  to  the  most  severe  and  persistent  treatment,  espe- 
cially treatment  that  greatly  excites  the  nervous  system. 
There  is,  in  the  first  place,  a  possibility  of  hereditary 
causes.  Like  produces  like,  is  a  fixed  law  of  nature, 
from  which  there  is  no  deviation.  But  nature  may  be  so 
disturbed  and  deranged  in  her  actions,  as  to  prevent,  if 


BE   THOROUGH.  27 

not  destroy  life.  If  a  stallion,  though  gentle,  is  whipped 
and  made  vicious,  the  result  is  likely  to  be  seen  in  the 
bad  disposition  of  his  colts.  If  a  mare  subjected  to  a  great 
shock  of  fear,  or  other  marked  causes  of  disturbing  the 
action  of  the  nervous  system,  the  effect  of  it  is  likely  to  be 
strongly  shown  in  the  character  of  the  colt,  by  its  being 
unusually  nervous  and  excitable.  A  shock  of  fear  may  be 
made  so  great  as  to  cause  a  horse  to  die  in  his  tracks.  I 
could  refer  to  a  number  of  horses  dropping  dead  from  the 
fear  of  a  train  of  cars  or  an  engine  coming  upon  them  sud- 
denly. I  would  call  your  special  attention  to  the  points 
of  fear  under  that  head,  which  I  would  ask  you  to  read 
carefully. 

BE  THOROUGH. 

f  A  timid  man,  who  shows  want  of  confidence  in  himself, 
is  not  adapted  to  the  task  of  having  much  to  do  with 
vicious  horses.  In  reality  it  requires  not  only  the  most 
accurate  judgment,  but  the  greatest  firmness  and  deter- 
mination, to  excel  in  the  control  of  horses.  If  a  horse  is  so 
bad,  courageous,  and  determined  that  he  beats  every  one, 
of  course  it  is  no  easy  or  trifling  job  to  break  such  a 
horse,  and  do  it  well,  without  injuring  him,  and  one,  too, 
that  does  not  infrequently  involve  great  danger.  Suppose 
there  is  danger,  and  you  fail  once  or  twice  :  that  is  nothing 
to  be  discouraged  at.  This  is  the  kind  of  trial,  when  you 
succeed,  that  proves  you  are  better  than  common  men. 
One  of  the  great  points  of  success  is,  you  should  not  fail  to 
understand  your  treatment  correctly,  and  just  how  to  carry 
it  to  a  successful  end.  Mere  power  is  not  so  much  the 
point,  as  acting  most  skilfully  upon  the  brain  to  win  the 
full  co-operation  of  the  animal's  understanding  and  better 
nature  to  your  aid.  At  all  events,  you  must  be  careful 
and  patient,  taking  time,  and  repeating  until  you  are  sure 
of  success.  Every  time  you  fail  you  will  learn  something ; 
and  if  you  will  persevere,  as  I  have,  guided  by  my  instruc- 
tion, which  makes  success  in  overcoming  these  possible 
difficulties  simple  and  easy,  it  will  be  your  own  fault  if 
you  are  not  equally  successful.  Candidly,  whatever  I 
have  of  skill  or  ability  in  the  control  of  horses  over  oth- 
ers has  been  all  learned  by  failures.  I  have  persever- 


28  COURAGE. 

ance.  I  tried  and  kept  trying,  regardless  of  failures, 
doing  as  well  as  I  could ;  and  in  this  way  succeeded. 
The  ability  to  write  these  pages,  such  as  I  have  been  able 
to  make  them,  has  been  learned  only  by  perseverance. 
This  is  the  quality  of  true  success.  It  is  the  quality  that 
tests  and  determines  most  truly  the  strength  of  the  char- 
acter, and  should  never  be  forgotten  as  a  primary  and 
necessary  condition  of  overcoming  great  difficulties ;  and 
the  greater  the  difficulty,  the  greater  and  more  gratifying 
the  success.  It  will  not  do  to  be  fool-hardy  or  venture- 
some, when  danger  can  by  a  little  extra  time  and  care  be 
guarded  against. 

COURAGE. 

But  a  nervous,  timid  feeling,  which  the  horse  can  in  the 
least  detect,  should  not  be  shown  in  the  language  or  ac- 
tions. I  would  not  advise  taking  the  chance  of  driving 
or  riding  behind  a  horse  that  is  nervous  and  dangerous, 
liable  to  kick,  lunge  ahead  against  the  bit,  and  get  away, 
because  you  do  not  feel  afraid,  and  would  not  have  any 
one  think  you  cowardly.  Think  nothing  about  this.  First, 
remember,  no  man,  nor  even  several  men,  can  hold  a  horse 
that  has  learned  to  take  the  bit  and  run  away.  The  point 
is,  have  you  sure  control  of  the  horse,  should  he  try  to 
resist  you  ?  If  you  have  not,  do  not  put  your  strength 
against  his,  and  expose  yourself  to  trouble  and  failure,  as 
well  as  make  the  horse  worse  by  the  experiment.  You 
must  be  cool,  and  gain  yourself  a  sure,  safe  position  of 
control  by  the  proper  subjective  treatment.  It  is  your 
own  fault  if  you  fail ;  and  if  you  fail  it  will  be  because 
you  do  not  get  control  enough  of  the  horse  before  you 
put  him  to  this  trial.  I  see  how  you  are  likely  to  be 
mixed,  by  asking  how  is  it  possible  for  you  to  drive  any 
colt  or  horse,  then,  in  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes.  That  is 
not  the  point.  I  am  compelled  often  to  take  next  to  des- 
perate chances  ;  and,  in  addition,  I  know  almost  to  a  cer- 
tainty, as  soon  as  I  see  a  horse,  what  he  is,  and  what  I 
can  do  with  him  in  a  given  time  ;  consequently  I  make  no 
mistakes,  and  succeed.  Should  I  find  a  horse  I  could  not 
safely  control  in  that  time,  I  do  not  chance  the  trial; 
I  persist  or  repeat  the  first  course,  until  I  know  I  have 


GREAT  VALUE   OF    THIS    KNOWLEDGE.  29 

absolute  control.  A  mustang,  or  really  bad  stallion,  or 
a  horse  of  a  vicious  mustang  nature,  is  not  prevented 
from  attacking  or  kicking  a  man,  because  he  may  show 
courage.  Stallions  and  horses  of  an  intelligent,  aggres- 
sive, wide-awake  character,  are  very  sharp  in  their  percep- 
tions, and  rely  very  much  on  the  bullying  plan  of  righting 
back,  and  are  easily  disconcerted  by  a  sharp,  confident  ex- 
pression of  word  or  action.  The  point  is,  to  trust  yourself 
as  far  as  you  can  do  so  safely. 

A  short  time  ago  a  young  horse  was  brought  in  for  me 
to  try  treatment  upon  before  the  class.  This  horse  was 
never  handled  or  harnessed,  and  I  saw  at  once  he  was  a 
very  dangerous,  bad  brute.  I  called  special  attention  to 
his  dangerous  character ;  yet,  to  a  casual  observer,  he  did 
not  seem  more  dangerous  than  an  ordinary  unbroken  colt. 
The  owner,  with  much  confidence,  questioned  my  judg- 
ment ;  said  he  never  had  any  trouble  with  him,  and  could 
handle  the  colt  safely.  He  was  about  going  forward  to 
put  his  hand  upon  the  colt,  saying,  he  "  was  not  afraid  of 
any  horse."  I  said,  "  Hold  on,  sir  :  you  do  not  see  your 
danger.  I  do,  and  will  prove  it  to  you ;  and  then,  if  you 
think  best  to  go  near  the  horse,  you  can  do  so  ;  but  I  warn 
you,  it  will  be  at  the  hazard  of  your  life."  At  the  same 
moment,  I  touched  the  horse  as  gently  and  carefully  as  I 
could  with  the  end  of  a  pole,  when  he  sprang  into  the  air 
at  the  instant,  kicking  and  striking  at  me  in  the  most  fear- 
ful manner,  showing  his  extremely  dangerous  character. 
The  man  turned  pale,  saying  he  would  not  have  believed 
it  possible  that  the  colt  could  be  so  vicious.  "  Why," 
said  he,  turning  to  me,  "  he  might  have  killed  me."  After 
that  I  had  plenty  of  room,  and  no  volunteers  to  assist ; 
yet,  in  less  than  fifteen  minutes  I  had  the  colt  entirely 
gentle.  If  you  cannot  see  and  read  the  horse's  intentions 
clearly,  and  feel  that  you  are  safe,  the  best  way  is  to  go 
slow,  feel  your  way,  and  be  thorough. 

GREAT  VALUE  OF  THIS  KNOWLEDGE. 

In  accomplishing  easily  and  with  certainty  an  end  that 
has  so  large  and  direct  an  influence  upon  the  prosperity 
and  happiness  of  all  classes  of  society  as  my  system 
of  educating  horses  enables,  the  correct  dissemination  of 
it  is  of  the  greatest  importance  and  value. 


30         GREAT  VALUE  OF  THIS  KNOWLEDGE. 

The  horse  is  in  such  general  use,  in  connection  with  the 
great  difficulty  experienced  in  making  him  docile  and  safe 
as  a  servant  for  the  various  purposes  of  the  farm  and 
family,  and  the  many  accidents  caused  by  the  use  of 
horses  that  are  in  consequence  unavoidably  unsafe.  In 
addition,  the  great  anxiety,  danger,  and  loss  experienced 
from  such  causes,  make  a  knowledge  of  principles  by 
which  all  those  difficulties  are  easily  overcome  and  pre- 
vented, a  source  of  the  broadest  humanity  and  value  to 
all  classes  of  society.  First,  it  saves  at  least  nine-tenths 
of  time  necessarily  employed  by  the  old  system,  which  is 
seen  to  be  so  defective.  Second,  with  the  great  advan- 
tage of  time  it  enables  absolute  security,  as  well  as  cer- 
tainty, of  making  the  most  vicious  colts  and  horses  gentle 
and  obedient  to  control.  Third,  it  removes  all  those 
causes  of  annoyance  and  danger  resulting  from  the  old 
methods  of  breaking  horses.  Fourth,  it  enables  reforming 
easily,  horses  that  have  been  given  up  as  worthless  or 
unsafe  for  use.  Fifth,  it  adds  largely  to  the  value  of 
horses.  Sixth,  it  secures  the  greatest  possible  kindness 
in  the  education  and  use  of  horses. 

It  is  the  work  of  months,  and  often  of  years,  to  break  a 
colt,  and  even  at  that  a  large  proportion  of  the  best  by 
nature  are  but  little  better  than  mere  impulsive,  danger- 
ous machines,  ready  at  the  least  little  derangement  of  har- 
ness or  other  cause  of  fear  and  excitement,  to  kick  or  run 
away.  The  consequence  is,  an  unavoidable  accident,  the 
smashing  of  wagon  and  harness,  the  horse  likely  to  be 
completely  spoiled  and  made  worthless,  and  the  possible 
serious  injury  to  or  loss  of  life. 

There  is  nothing  the  farmer  fears  more  than  the  task  of 
breaking  colts,  because,  while  he  realizes  the  difficulty  and 
danger  attending  it,  he  has  no  remedy  beyond  that  of 
being  careful  and  patient,  and  the  whip  and  club  law.  He 
does  as  well  as  he  can,  or  employs  some  ignorant  horse- 
breaker  who  cannot  do  any  better.  The  majority  of  so- 
called  horse-breakers,  from  ignorance,  violate  the  simplest 
laws  of  addressing  the  animal's  nature  and  reason.  It  is 
a  struggle  of  the  merest  brute  force,  that  results  so  often 
in  injuring  and  spoiling  the  best  colts,  by  nature,  in  break- 
ing. There  is  no  lack  of  authority  telling  how  to  con- 


GREAT  VALUE  OF  THIS  KNOWLEDGE.         31 

struct  a  steam-engine,  and  run  it,  or  make  a  machine  by 
which  grain  and  other  farm  products  can  be  planted  and 
gathered  most  economically  and  easily,  —  in  every  line 
and  channel  of  husbandry,  scientific  and  mechanical,  there 
is  no  lack  of  the  most  exact  rules  of  guidance.  But  in 
this  of  the  principles  and  laws  of  educating  horses,  so  that 
the  difficulties  and  causes  of  annoyance  in  their  manage- 
ment are  removed,  and  there  is  certainty  of  success  in 
securing  their  obedience  and  docility,  there  is  no  recog- 
nized authority  or  hardly  a  line  of  reliable  guidance, 
because  not  known. 

When  I  advertise  and  assert  I  can  control  and  drive, 
with  but  very  few  exceptions,  any  kicking,  runaway  colt  or 
horse,  in  from  ten  to  twenty  minutes,  and  make  such  so 
gentle  that  he  will  not  kick  or  resist  control,  though  the 
shafts  should  strike  his  quarters,  or  attempt  to  run  away 
though  subjected  to  extreme  causes  of  fear  and  excite- 
ment, to  which  but  few  horses  that  are  considered  well 
broke  would  submit,  and  perform  other  feats  of  control 
equally  great  in  the  subjection  of  vicious  horses,  the  most 
intelligent  horsemen  and  farmers  shake  their  heads,  and 
regard  the  assumption  with  the  most  positive  unbelief. 
Yet  I  prove  nothing  is  simpler  or  easier  to  do ;  that  an 
ordinary  boy  or  man,  who  has  a  little  nerve,  and  is  patient, 
can  control  the  worst  of  horses  without  any  difficulty  wor- 
thy the  name.  When  I  have  good  subjects  to  illustrate 
properly  the  effects  of  my  principles,  I  give  such  convin- 
cing proofs  of  all  this  that  there  cannot  be  any  question 
about  it.  Now,  I  only  prove  how  easy  it  is  to  make 
horses  of  even  a  very  vicious  nature,  safe  and  gentle,  when 
treated  in  a  sensible,  reasonable  manner. 

When  this  simple  truth  is  opened  clearly  to  the  mind, 
then,  and  not  till  then,  are  the  real  humanity  and  value  of 
my  instruction  fully  appreciated.  The  surprise,  too,  is 
great,  that  a  horse  can  be  made  docile  and  obedient  so 
easily,  quickly,  and  surely,  without  any  severity  that  is  at 
all  dangerous,  and  that  every  step  of  success  in  the  subjec- 
tion and  control  of  the  most  vicious  horses  is  held  and 
fixed  by  kindness. 


32  MORAL    BEARING. 

MORAL    BEARING. 

In  its  true  sense,  there  is  no  duty  which  appeals  more 
forcibly  to  the  better  faculties  of  the  mind,  than  tnis  of 
the  scientific  education  and  subjection  of  horses.  We 
have  to  study  the  principles  of  addressing  and  controlling 
the  animal's  reason  most  successfully.  We  are  not  only 
able  to  see  the  necessity  and  value  of  restraining  and  con- 
trolling our  own  bad  impulses  of  feeling,  but  of  being  gov- 
erned by  the  higher  faculties  of  reason,  to  win  success.  It 
is  seen  that  to  be  hasty  and  passionate,  to  be  excited  by 
drink,  or  other  causes,  to  whip  and  abuse  the  horse,  while 
it  does  not  show  or  teach  any  thing  that  is  desired  to  be 
done,  is  not  only  a  direct  cause  of  exciting  the  animal's 
fear  and  bad  nature,  and  thereby  of  being  spoiled,  but  is  a 
cause  of  the  greatest  abuse.  Now,  making  a  horse  stub- 
born and  unmanageable,  will  naturally  make  a  man  mad 
and  reckless,  and  thereby  trouble  is  only  increased,  which 
defeats  success ;  while,  guided  by  right  principles,  and  ac- 
cording to  the  laws  of  the  case,  we  are  all  the  time  elevat- 
ing the  better  side,  and  restraining  the  worst  side,  of  our 
nature.  We  are  at  once  nol;  only  able  to  remove  and  over- 
come all  the  main  causes  of  annoyance  and  failures  by  this 
knowledge,  but  it  serves  to  bring  in  all  ways  to  view  most 
clearly  the  light  of  self-examination  which  stimulates 
thought,  as  well  as  sweetens  and  elevates  the  feelings  to 
a  greater  exertion  for  success. 

Will  you  be  patient  ?  Will  you  try  to  be  guided  by  the 
principles  and  laws  which  I  have  shown  to  be  so  simple, 
yet  so  far-reaching  and  valuable,  that  have  cost  me  so 
many  years'  experiment  and  persistent  labor  to  learn? 
Will  you  bring  into  play  the  courage  and  will,  the  discrimi- 
nation and  care,  which  is  necessary  and  characteristic  of  all 
true  and  great  success  ?  If  you  will  try  faithfully  to  bring 
out  the  ingenuity  and  strength  of  your  nature,  in  doing 
this,  success  is  sure.  If  you  will  not,  you  must  expect  to 
fail. 


THE    COLT. 


THE  first  point  to  consider  is,  what  is  the  disposition 
and  character  of  the  colt?  Is  he  very  young,  entirely  wild, 
very  large,  strong,  and  dangerous,  or  a  wild,  nervous, 
timid  one  ?  Is  the  colt  "  way-wised  "  to  the  halter,  or  other- 
wise wild  ?  The  first  point  with  me  is,  what  have  I  to 
deal  with.  This  point  considered,  I  go  to  work,  taking  the 
most  direct  and  simple  course  of  treatment.  The  first 
condition  is  safety  to  self ;  second,  safety  to  the  colt  from 
any  physical  injury ;  third,  what  will  the  rase  require,  to 
enable  his  perfect  docility  ?  It  is  but  a  trifling  matter  to 
make  an  average  unbroken  colt,  of  a  nervous,  intelligent 
character,  so  gentle  as  to  submit  to  being  led  by  the 
halter,  gentle  to  handle  and  drive  with  perfect  safety  in 
shafts,  in  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes.  Just  as  soon  as  he 
can  be  made  to  guide  to  the  bit  and  reins,  he  will  drive, 
even  without  breeching,  allowing  the  cross-piece  of  the 
shafts  to  come  against  his  quarters,  the  reins  under  the 
tail,  etc.,  without  showing  the  least  fear  or  resistance  from 
such  causes.  Even  colts  of  quite  a  bad  character,  we  do 
all  this  with,  in  illustrating  principles  before  the  class,  daily, 
and  regard  it  no  feat  to  do  in  fifteen  to  twenty  and  thirty 
minutes.  As  before  stated,  as  soon  as  the  colt  can  be 
taught  to  rein,  and  submit  to  the  control  of  the  bit,  almost 
so  soon  he  can  be  hitched  up  and  driven  without  breech- 
ing. The  real  point  to  be  considered  in  the  training  of 
the  colt  is,  how  soon  can  you  get  a  good  manageable 
mouth?  While  this  is  the  point  I  look  at,  back  of  it  is  one 
that  cannot  be  safely  neglected,  since  it  is  at  the  founda- 
tion of  your  ultimate  success ;  namely,  making  the  colt 
absolutely  gentle.  He  must  not  be  afraid  of  any  thing 
upon,  over,  or  against  him ;  to  have  the  feet  taken  up  and 
pounded  upon ;  to  submit  to  the  shafts  or  any  thing  else 

33 


34  THE   COLT. 

striking  the  quarters  or  legs  without  fear,  etc.  Doing  this 
thoroughly  and  well,  is  the  first  true  step  of  success  ;  this 
accomplished,  you  are  ready  to  go  on  with  the  training, 
but  not  before.  This  is  the  defective,  weak  point,  that 
seems  so  difficult  to  do ;  the  failure  of  which  has  been, 
and  is,  the  great  stumbling-block  of  difficulty  to  trainers 
and  horsemen.  They  cannot  see  or  understand  why  a 
horse,  after  months,  perhaps  years,  of  good  character, 
should,  without  warning,  at  some  trifling  cause  of  derange- 
ment in  the  harness  or  wagon,  cause  the  most  violent  fear 
and  resistance,  which  he  will  not  afterward  forget.  These 
are  the  complaints  repeated  many  times  daily  to  me,  by 
good-thinking  farmers  and  self-styled  horsemen,  who,  of 
course,  in  their  own  estimation,  know  all  about  a  horse.  A 
horse  reasons  only  from  the  impressions  of  experience ;  and 
this  is  his  weak  point,  and  the  key  of  managing  him  suc- 
cessfully. The  farmer  knows  his  cow  will  not  submit  to  be 
milked  but  on  the  right  side  ;  she  may  have  been  milked 
for  years  successfully,  yet  to  attempt  some  morning  to 
milk  her  on  the  other  side,  would  be  almost  sure  to  excite 
her  to  kick  and  run  away ;  she  was  broken  or  trained  to 
be  milked  only  on  one  side,  and  remains  unbroken  so  far 
as  the  other  side  goes. 

The  principle  is  precisely  the  same  with  horses  in  rea- 
soning ;  consequently,  making  one  part  of  the  body  gentle, 
does  not,  by  any  means,  in  a  horse  of  spirit  and  sensibility, 
make  the  opposite  part  so.  Now,  the  forward  part  of  the 
body,  from  necessity,  is  accustomed  to  be  handled,  but 
seldom  the  hind  quarters  ;  and  unless  the  sensibility  and 
fear  of  the  hind  parts  and  flanks  are  thoroughly  overcome, 
to  do  which  properly  at  the  start  is  indispensable,  there 
is  sure  to  be  trouble  and  danger  of  accident  from  any  of 
these  common  causes  of  derangement,  exciting  the  fear, 
which  is  liable  to  occur  at  any  time  in  their  use.  It 
is  not  always  possible  to  guard  against  the  breeching- 
strap  or  something  else  breaking  or  giving  out,  that  would 
cause  the  shafts  to  come  against  the  quarters ;  and  the 
horse,  not  understanding  what  it  means,  is  in  consequence 
frightened,  and  the  result  is  an  unavoidable  accident, 
perhaps  serious  loss.  All  this  I  accomplish  in  the  most 
thorough  manner,  by  treatment  that  makes  the  most 


THE   COLT. 


35 


powerful  horses  completely  safe  in  the  hands  of  an  ordi- 
nary man  in  a  few  minutes,  without  the  least  danger  or 
abuse.  I  subject  the  colt  simply  to  the  second  method  of 
subjection,  after  which,  as  soon  as  he  will  lead  promptly, 
which  I  make  him  do  easily  with  the  war-bridle,  I  put  on 
the  harness  with  breaking-bit,  to  which  there  is  soon 
complete  obedience;  and  in  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  an 
ordinary  good  colt  that  had  never  been  harnessed,  possibly 
not  haltered,  will  act  as  gently  as  any  old  horse. 

If    a  strong,  wild,   dangerous  colt,  you  must  proceed 
cautiously.     The  first  step  is  to  turn  him  into  a  small  yard 


Haltering  the  Colt. 

or  barn,  where  there  is  no  chance  to  run  very  far,  or  break 
away :  it  would  alarm  him  too  much  to  try  to  catch  and 
hold  him  to  put  on  the  halter,  and  besides,  there  is  danger 
of  being  hurt.  This  difficulty  you  can  easily  overcome  as 
follows  :  Get  a  light  pole,  ten  or  twelve  feet  in  length,  or 
as  much  longer  as  you  can  use  to  advantage,  if  the  colt  is 
very  wild  or  dangerous,  and  drive  two  nails  into  it,  about 
eight  inches  apart,  the  first  about  an  inch  from  the  end, 
with  the  heads  bent  a  little  outward  from  each  other. 
Take  a  common  rope  halter,  with  a  running  noose,  pull 


36  THE   COLT. 

the  part  which  slips  through  the  noose  back  about  two 
feet,  and  hang  the  part  that  goes  over  the  head  upon  the 
nails  on  the  end  of  your  pole  nicely,  keeping  hold  of  the 
hitching  part,  which  must  be  as  long  as  your  pole.  Your 
halter  is  now  so  spread  and  hung  upon  the  stick  as  to  be 
easily  put  on  to  the  head.  If  the  colt  is  not  excited  or 
frightened,  as  you  extend  the  halter  towards  him  he  will 
reach  out  his  nose  to  smell  and  examine  it ;  and  while  he 
is  gratifying  his  curiosity  in  this  way,  you  can  bring  the 
slack  part  under  his  jaw  and  raise  the  pole  high  enough 
to  bring  the  halter  over  and  back  of  the  ears,  when,  by 
turning  the  stick  half  way  round,  the  halter  will  drop  from 
it  upon  the  head.  This  will  frighten  the  colt  a  little,  and 
cause  him  to  run  from  you ;  but  this  will  only  cause  the 
slack  part  passing  back  of  the  jaw  to  be  pulled  up,  and 
the  halter  will  be  securely  adjusted.  The  moment  the 
colt  finds  the  halter  pull  upon  him,  he  will  be  likely  to  try 
to  pull  away.  The  larger  your  room,  or  enclosure,  the 
more  he  will  be  encouraged  to  pull  away.  On  this  account, 
if  the  colt  is  bad,  be  careful  to  give  yourself  the  advan- 
tage of  a  small  room  or  carriage-house,  which  will  be  free 
from  pegs  or  nails  in  the  wall  that  would  be  likely  to  cause 
injury.  By  all  means  avoid  a  barn  with  stalls,  for  the  colt 
will  try  to  run  into  the  stalls  for  protection.  After  the 
halter  is  on,  you  had  better  next  aim  to  overcome  the 
sharp  edge  of  his  wildness  and  confidence  by  subjecting 
him  to  the  second  method  of  subjection.  If  he  is  young, 
two  or  three  years  old,  with  long  ears,  round,  small  eyes, 
and  a  sulky,  impulsive  action,  you  must  PROCEED  CARE- 
FULLY, for  he  will  fight  you  savagely  at  every  point.  Don't 
try  to  lead  him,  or  jerk  upon  him,  as  he  may  lunge  and 
throw  himself,  but,  as  gently  as  you  can,  catch  the  hair  of 
the  tail  with  the  right  hand,  holding  the  halter  well  up 
near  the  head  with  the  left,  and,  as  quickly  as  you  can, 
turn  him  around  two,  three,  or  four  times  ;  this  will  make 
him  dizzy,  and  enable  you  to  carry  out  easily  and  safely 
the  second  method  of  subjection.  Without  this  little  advan- 
tage of  partially  confusing  the  mind  in  this  manner,  and 
going  directly  to  forcing  by  the  second  course  of  subjection, 
he  might  lunge  and  throw  himself  over  backwards  and 
break  his  neck.  This  you  must  be  careful  to  guard  against. 


MUST   OVERCOME    HIS    FEAR.  37 

Instantly  tie  the  halter  into  the  tail,  a  little  long,  and  at 
starting  touch  the  nose  lightly  with  the  whip.  After  once 
starting,  the  rest  will  be  easy.  To  be  thorough,  reverse  ; 
but  while  helpless,  and  his  mind  is  unable  to  act,  accustom 
him  to  be  touched,  as  you  please,  around  the  hind  parts, 
—  in  fact,  every  part  of  his  body,  —  until  perfectly  regard- 
less of  being  handled  or  touched  with  a  pole.  Be  very 
thorough.  The  colt  should  be  made  COMPLETELY  DOCILE, 
to  be  ridden  and  handled  as  you  desire.  Rub  and  touch 
the  hind  parts  and  legs  until  there  is  no  scringing  or 
regard  for  being  touched.  Now,  untie  the  halter,  and  see 
that  he  submits  to  all  this  while  free.  As  I  before  inti- 
mated, I  would  recommend  that  making  one  part  of  the 
body  gentle  to  be  touched  and  handled,  does  not  make 
the  rest  of  the  body  gentle.  All  parts  of  the  body  must 
be  treated  in  the  same  careful,  thorough  manner,  and  on 
both  sides  alike.  This  is  the  law  of  the  horse's  reasoning, 
which  is  shown  in  a  great  variety  of  ways ;  consequently 
one-half  or  two-thirds  of  the  body  may  be  gentle,  while 
the  rest  of  it  may  be  unbroken,  or  the  horse  will  resent 
having  it  handled  or  touched. 

MUST  OVERCOME  HIS  FEAH. 

We  see  this  shown  in  a  horse  that  has  been,  perhaps, 
worked  for  years,  and  is  supposed  to  be  well  broken ;  but 
let  the  whiffletree  or  cross-piece  touch  his  quarters,  it  is 
likely  to  be  the  signal  to  jump  and  kick,  and  show  as 
much  fear  and  repugnance  of  being  touched  as  if  never 
trained.  If,  in  the  first  place,  this  part  of  the  body  had 
been  carefully  and  thoroughly  accustomed  to  have  the 
pressure  of  the  cross-piece  or  the  shafts  brought  against 
it,  there  would  be  no  fear  or  resistance  to  any  thing  strik- 
ing or  coming  against  the  hind  parts. 

It  is  on  this  account  that  the  first  experience  of  the  colt 
should  be  made  right,  in  proving  to  him  conclusively,  that 
he  must  submit  to  be  handled  with  the  greatest  freedom. 
It  is  because  I  have  learned  to  create  this  thorough  foun- 
dation for  preventing  being  frightened  and  made  nervous 
by  any  possible  cause  of  fear,  that  I  am  able  so  easily  and 
quickly  to  drive  and  control  any  colt  in  a  few  minutes, 
when  attached  to  shafts,  without  breeching.  With  this 


38  MUST  OVERCOME   HIS   FEAR. 

point  made,  you  are  ready  to  take  the  next  step  of  mak- 
ing him  lead  to  the  halter.  This  is  a  point  in  which  the 
colt  will  be  likely  to  give  you  much  opposition,  resisting 
every  step  with  great  stubbornness ;  so  you  must  prepare 
yourself  for  some  hard  work.  The  main  point  is  to  KEEP 
COOL  ;  for  however  stubborn  and  reckless  the  animal  may 
act,  when  he  gets  over  the  excitement,  and  is  cool,  he  will 
always  work  in  nicely,  and,  once  yielding,  gives  no  oppo- 
sition afterwards.  So  the  point  is  simply  perseverance, 
and  not  pushing  too  fast ;  for  the  warmer  the  colt  gets,  the 
more  stubborn  and  reckless  he  will  act. 

First  put  on  the  war-bridle,  which  has  been  shown  to 
you,  and  is  described  in  another  chapter  under  that  head. 
As  it  is  much  easier  to  make  a  horse  follow  sideways  than 
straight  ahead,  for  greater  ease  of  working,  I  would  advise 
making  this  point  first.  To  do  this,  use  this  form  :  large 
kind  of  loop  around  the  neck  ;  the  cord  extending  through 
the  mouth,  back  over  the  part  around  the  neck  should  be 
used.  It  gives  great  power  sideways,  but  should  not  be 
used  on  the  colt  any  other  way.  If  you  pull  back  too 
much,  and  the  colt  is  sensitive,  there  is  danger  of  being 
thrown  over  back.  If  you  pull  ahead,  it  acts  directly 
upon  the  mouth  as  a  powerful  check,  and  defeats  your 
object.  It  has  been  used  with  great  pretension  by  many 
as  a  means  of  bitting  colts.  The  purchase  from  the  back 
of  the  neck  to  the  jaw  is  too  short :  it  is  liable  to  injure 
the  mouth,  and  must  be  used  with  great  care,  if  at  all,  for 
this  purpose.  It  is,  on  the  whole,  bad  treatment,  and  very 
objectionable  in  the  hands  of  a  rough,  thoughtless  man. 
Stand  opposite  the  shoulder,  about  five  or  six  feet  away, 
and  give  a  sharp,  quick  jerk  toward  you,  and  instantly 
slacken  up,  and  repeat,  at  slow  intervals,  always  slacking 
instantly  after  each  pull.  A  quick,  nervous,  well-bred  colt 
would  yield  very  quickly  to  this,  coming  to  you  and  follow- 
ing freely  after  a  few  pulls ;  but  those  of  small,  round 
eyes,  heavy  eye-lids,  long,  heavy  ears,  are  liable  to  be 
fearfully  stubborn.  When  warmed  up,  they  will  always, 
if  possible,  pull  into  a  corner,  run  into  a  stall,  and  try  to 
do  almost  any  thing  but  yield  the  point.  When  thoroughly 
warmed  up,  they  will  either  stand  with  ears  lopped,  legs 
spread,  and  head  down,  or  lunge  recklessly  away.  If  the 


KINDNESS.  39 

colt  becomes  very  warm,  the  better  way  is  to  stop,  and  let 
him  get  cool.  While  THOROUGHLY  WARM,  it  is  next  to 
impossible  to  make  him  do  any  thing ;  yet  such  will  always 
work  in  easily  when  cool,  and  especially  after  a  sharp  les- 
son. Your  best  course  is,  then,  if  the  colt  warms  up,  and 
becomes  thoroughly  stubborn,  to  stop,  and  let  him  become 
entirely  cool,  when  you  are  to  go  on  as  before  in  the  same 
manner.  To  your  surprise  he  may  now  give  up  in  a  few 
minutes,  and  is  so  perfectly  broke  that  he  will  follow  you 
anywhere,  without  being  touched.  As  soon  as  he  gets  the 
idea  of  coming  to  you,  encourage  him  by  kindness. 

KINDNESS. 

Stop  at  once,  caress  the  horse,  give  a  little  oats,  apple, 
or  any  thing  else  of  which  he  is  fond,  until  there  is  perfect 
obedience. 

There  is  great  sleight  in  using  the  war-bridle,  and  it  is 
mainly  in  the  quickness  of  the  pull ;  but  in  that  little  pull 
all  the  power  in  your  body  must  be  concentrated,  like  the 
crack  of  a  whip.  Never  hang  on  after  the  pull ;  let  the 
cord  go  instantly  back  slack  ;  neither  should  the  cord  be 
allowed  by  chance  to  keep  drawn  tight  upon  the  jaw,  as  it 
destroys  the  sensibility  of  the  mouth,  and,  in  a  great  meas- 
ure, makes  your  work  harder.  If  you  are  not  careful,  you 
will  blister  and  skin  your  hands.  You  do  not  feel  or  know 
any  thing  about  this,  while  excited  and  warm,  as  you  are 
liable  to  become.  To  guard  against  the  trouble,  have 
gloves  on  your  hands.  Sometimes  a  colt  will  come  side- 
ways well  enough,  but  will  not  come  ahead.  In  this  case 
change  the  form  of  war-bridle ;  put  the  small  loop  around 
the  jaw ;  pass  the  cord  over  the  head  where  the  halter 
rests,  and  down  through  the  loop  the  end  forms  around 
the  jaw.  Stand  about  six  or  eight  feet  ahead  of  the  horse, 
a  little  sideways,  and,  as  before,  give  a  quick,  sharp  pull, 
repeating  slowly.  However  stubborn  the  colt,  he  will  in  a 
few  minutes  come  promptly,  and,  once  yielding,  will  follow 
anywhere.  The  power  and  value  of  the  war-bridle,  when 
properly  used,  are  beyond  estimate  for  breaking  a  horse  to 
lead.  It  is  invaluable,  because  it  will  break  any  colt  or 
horse,  no  matter  how  bad,  to  lead  as  desired,  freely ;  and 
it  does  it  so  quickly  and  easily  that  it  is,  beyond  all  com- 


40  KINDNESS. 

parison,  the  best  means  known  for  the  purpose.  It  does 
not  injure  the  horse ;  its  success  in  all  cases  is  complete. 
There  is,  however,  a  great  point  in  the  skill  of  using  it 
right. 

I  will  here  explain  to  you  how  you  can  make  almost  any 
colt  lead  easily  by  the  use  of  a  common  rope  halter.  It 
of  course  does  not  give  the  power  of  the  war-bridle,  and  is 
not  to  be  compared  with  it ;  but,  being  available  and  sim- 
ple, I  will  include  it.  The  halter  should  fit  well  on  the 
head  ;  the  nose-piece  should  not  be  too  tight  or  too  low. 
If  too  tight,  you  will  greatly  lessen  its  power  upon  the 
head  ;  if  too  low,  it  presses  upon  the  nostrils,  and  prevents 
breathing.  Neither  should  the  rope  be  more  than  three- 
fourths  of  an  inch  in  size.  If  you  have  a  rope-halter,  see 
that  the  slipping-noose  part  is  made  fast  by  a  single  knot, 
leaving  the  nose  part  large  enough,  so  that  it  will  not  press 
tightly  upon  the  jaw.  If  you  neglect  this  little  point, 
when  you  pull  upon  the  halter,  this  nose-piece  around  and 
back  of  the  jaw  draws  tight  and  hurts  :  it  tends  directly 
to  setting  the  colt  back ;  and  once  pressing  tightly  upon 
his  head,  he  is  likely  to  pull  most  recklessly  to  get  away. 
This  is  the  reason  a  colt  hitched  by  a  rope-halter  is  liable, 
without  any  apparent  cause,  to  get  in  the  habit  of  pulling 
on  the  halter.  This  you  will  avoid  by  tying  into  a  knot, 
as  above  described.  Now  stand  opposite  the  shoulder, 
and  give  a  sharp,  quick  pull,  and  let  loose  instantly.  You 
will  of  course  pull  the  head  towards  you  ;  and,  if  the  body 
is  brought  around  towards  you,  you  have  made  quite  a 
point.  If  the  colt  attempts  to  run  back  or  runs  ahead, 
give  him  slack  rope;  simply  repeat,  until  he  will  come 
around  towards  you  without  pulling.  Now  get  on  the 
opposite  side,  and  repeat  the  same  tactics  until  he  will 
come  that  way  freely  ;  and  at  each  movement  of  coming 
to  you,  reward  him  with  a  little  apple,  or  any  thing  which 
he  likes.  Now  gradually  pull  as  before,  but  a  little  more 
and  more  on  a  line  with  the  body,  until  he  will  follow 
readily  without  being  pulled  upon.  If  you  stand  in  front 
of  a  green  colt,  and  pull  slowly  and  heavily  upon  him,  he 
will  gradually,  but  firmly,  pull  against  you,  and  will  be 
likely  to  rear  up,  and  throw  himself  over  backwards,  or 
throw  himself  down.  Tie  him  by  the  head,  and  he  will 


KINDNESS.  41 

pull  most  desperately.  This  slow  pulling  is  what  is  to  be 
avoided;  and  the  habit  is  established  of  yielding  to  the 
slightest  pressure  of  the  halter.  It  is  also  a  point  in  show- 
ing that  a  colt  should  not,  as  is  common,  be  hitched  at 
first  in  this  way.  There  is  a  natural  tendency  in  the  colt 
to  pull  when  tied  by  the  head,  which  this  making  to  yield 
by  the  course  above  described  almost  wholly  overcomes, 
but  is  not  to  be  relied  upon. 

Hitch  the   colt  for  a  few   times   as  follows,   and  he 


Hitching  the  Colt  so  that  he  cannot  injure  himself,  or  learn  to  pull. 


will  never  learn  the  habit.  Provide  yourself  with  a  small 
rope,  not  over  one-half  an  inch  in  diameter,  one  that 
cannot  be  broken,  —  a  hemp  one  is  the  best,  —  twenty- 
eight  feet  long ;  double  this,  and  put  the  end  forming  a 
loop  under  the  tail,  bring  forward  over  the  back,  twisting 
two  or  three  times,  and  tie  both  in  a  double  knot,  below 
the  neck  in  front  of  the  shoulders ;  now  pass  the  cords 
forward  through  the  ring  in  the  manger,  and  back  to  the 
ring  in  the  halter  back  of  the  jaw.  If  you  wish  to  be 
very  particular,  wind  the  part  of  the  rope  under  the  tail 
with  a  piece  of  rag  to  prevent  making  the  tail  sore.  The 
moment  the  colt  attempts  to  pull,  he  is  disconcerted  and 
disabled,  and  comes  ahead,  from  the  pull  upon  the  tail,  in 
surprise.  There  is  pressure  upon  the  head  to  which  he 
becomes  accustomed ;  and  all  inclination  to  pulling  is  pre- 
vented and  overcome,  and  prevents  all  possibility  of  being 
injured.  The  younger  the  colt  and  the  colder-blooded, 


42 


KINDNESS. 


the  more  inclined  to  resist  the  restraint  of  the  halter,  con- 
sequently  the  more  difficult  to  make  yield  to  the  halter,  or 
to  hold  by  the  head.  When  once  broken,  however,  they 
are  honest  and  reliable  afterwards.  When  the  colt  is 
gentle  to  handle,  and  leads  nicely,  your  work  is  more  than 
half  done.  The  course  I  usually  pursue  is  this :  If  the 
colt  will  bear  it,  I  put  on  the  harness  at  once,  after  making 
him  gentle  and  teaching  him  to  lead,  passing  the  reins 
through  the  shaft-bearers,  which  enables  keeping  him 


First  lesson  in  driving  the  Colt  with  reins. 

from  turning  around.  (See  cut.)  If  the  reins  are  through 
the  turrets,  it  will  be  difficult  to  keep  him  from  doing  this.  I 
drive  him  around  gently,  not  attempting  to  stop  or  back  until 
he  gets  the  idea,  will  turn  right  and  left  promptly,  and  sub- 
mit to  the  control  of  the  bit,  which  he  soon  learns.  This 
should  be  done  in  a  yard  or  field,  where  you  have  room, 
and  nothing  to  annoy.  If,  however,  the  colt  is  warm,  and 
does  not  work  in  easily  and  promptly,  do  not  attempt  to 
drive  him  in  harness ;  treat  him  kindly  as  you  can,  and 
put  him  in  good  quarters ;  repeat  this  lesson  the  next  day, 
and  he  will  usually  work  well  in  a  short  time.  Any  way, 
repeat,  and  test  him  hard  on  this  point  of  being  touched 
and  handled  around  the  hind  parts,  until  you  know  he 
will  with  certainty  bear  any  thing  in  the  way  of  pole  or 
shaft  against  his  quarters,  &c.,  without  resistance  or  fear. 
A  good  many  are  so  short-sighted  and  thoughtless,  as  to 
think  a  colt  should  behave  and  act  as  gentle  as  an  old 


BITTING.  43 

horse  after  being  once  handled,  especially  if  he  works 
in  well.  If  I  subject  a  colt,  no  matter  how  bad  a  one,  to 
treatment,  when  I  bring  him  under  complete  control,  they 
think  that  is  all  that  it  is  necessary  to  do ;  that  he  must 
stay  so,  or  the  treatment  is  good  for  nothing. 

All  horses  are  not  alike  in  disposition  or  intelligence,  as 
I  have  shown  in  the  first  part;  and  the  point  is  to  insure 
absolute  certainty  of  success.  If  one  bucket  of  water 
will  not  put  a  fire  out,  the  point  is  to  throw  on  more,  and 
put  on  enough  until  sure  every  smouldering  spark  is  extin- 
guished. This  is  precisely  the  rule  in  making  the  colt 
gentle.  You  are  acting  upon  a  certain  side  of  the  nervous 
system :  if  one  lesson  does  not  make  the  impression 
strong  enough  to  accomplish  your  purpose,  repeat  until 
you  do.  If  the  colt  is  warming  up  too  much,  or  you  find 
that  he  is  at  all  doubtful,  upon  trial  next  day,  repeat 
the  lesson  until  you  know  the  colt  is  gentle,  and  shows  no 
fear  under  any  excitement.  You  are  now  ready  for  the 
next  step,  of  getting  sufficient  control  upon  the  mouth  to 
guide  and  restrain  the  horse  as  you  desire,  in  harness.  For 
quick,  sharp  work  in  doing  this,  the  breaking-bit  is  indis- 
pensable ;  but  the  great  power  of  this  bit  is  a  reason  for 
using  it  with  caution  in  the  control  of  a  green  colt.  If 
you  once  get  the  mouth  too  tender  and  free  to  the  bit,  it  is 
difficult,  in  many  cases,  to  get  the  mouth  hard,  so  that  there 
is  a  strong  pressure  of  the  jaw  against  it  in  driving.  Then 
a  horse  with  a  tender  mouth  is  liable  to  rein  back  too 
freely  when  pulled  upon :  this  trouble  you  may  cause  by 
using  the  breaking-bit  too  freely  at  the  start.  You  must 
aim  to  make  a  good,  firm  mouth,  yet  one  that  is  like  a 
steel  spring  to  your  control  of  the  reins.  If  you  have  a 
valuable  colt  and  wish  to  work  slowly  and  carefully,  I 
would  advise  the  following  course  : 

BITTING. 

The  mouth,  in  the  first  place,  should  be  made  accustomed 
to  the  bit ;  then,  by  gradually  shortening  the  check-rein,  the 
mouth  is  made  to  submit  to  restraint.  To  do  this,  put  on 
a  common  bridle,  with  a  smooth  snaffle-bit,  without  reins, 
and  allow  him  to  go  as  he  pleases,  in  a  yard  or  field,  for 
half  an  hour  or  more,  which  may  be  repeated  once  or 


44  BITTING. 

twice,  to  make  the  mouth  accustomed  to  and  hardened  to 
the  bit.  Next  put  on  a  surcingle,  with  check  and  side 
reins,  buckling  the  reins  at  first  so  long  as  to  bring  but 
little  restraint  upon  the  mouth.  After  being  on  thirty  or 
forty  minutes,  take  it  off.  At  each  repetition,  buckle  the 
reins  a  little  shorter,  until  the  head  is  brought  up  and 
back  freely  to  the  check. 

It  seems  needless  to  introduce  details  of  a  bitting  har- 
ness. Any  simple  construction  of  the  ordinary  kind  will 
answer  very  well,  and  the  style  is  so  generally  understood 


A  simple,  safe  way  of  bitting  the  Colt. 

that  a  description  here  is  unnecessary  ;  the  object  being 
to  bring  such  restraint  upon  the  bit  that  the  head  will 
be  held  up  and  back  most  naturally  and  easily,  without 
giving  it  freedom,  except  in  the  direction  of  the  reins. 
Care  should  be  taken  to  have  the  throat-latch  so  loose, 
that  there  will  be  no  pressure  of  it  upon  the  throat  when 
checked  up.  The  gag-runners  should  be  well  up  near  the 
ears.  Care  must  be  taken  not  to  bring  too  much  restraint 
upon  the  bit  by  buckling  the  reins  so  short,  at  first,  as  to 
endanger  causing  the  colt  to  throw  himself  over  back- 


BITTING.  45 

wards  and  break  his  neck.  It  is  bad  policy  to  keep  a  colt 
checked  up  too  long  at  a  time,  as  it  becomes  tiresome, 
which  would  cause  a  resting  of  the  head  upon  the  bit,  and 
thus  form  the  disagreeable  habit  of  lugging.  If,  however, 
the  colt  should  fight  the  restraint  of  the  bit  or  check,  it 
should  be  left  on  till  the  fit  exhausts  itself,  and  he  shows  a 
disposition  to  submit  to  its  restraint. 

Short  lessons  at  first,  and  gradually  keeping  on  longer 
as  the  mouth  becomes  hardened  by  the  bit  and  the  colt 
will  bear  it  without  fatigue,  is  the  best  course. 

You  are  now  ready  for  the  next  step  of  teaching,  to 
rein  right  and  left,  stop,  back,  &c. 

Put  on  the  harness-reins  through  shaft-lugs,  and  see 
how  the  colt  works :  if  too  stiff  or  stubborn  to  the  bit, 
put  in  the  breaking-bit.  Give  him  a  lesson  with  it.  One 
lesson  of  a  few  minutes  is  usually  enough.  Be  sure  you 
do  not  do  too  much,  so  as  not  to  get  the  mouth  too  tender. 
This  is  a  point  you  must  be  careful  to  avoid.  If  he  resists 
the  pull  of  the  reins  either  way,  drill  on  that  point  until 
he  turns  easily  and  promptly  as  desired.  Next,  teach  him 
to  stand.  This  is  not  usually  difficult  to  do,  yet  in  some 
cases  requires  much  care  and  patience  to  do  well.  While 
driving  on  a  moderate  walk,  speak  "  whoa,"  in  a  natural 
tone  of  voice,  and  immediately  after  give  a  sharp  little 
jerk  with  the  reins.  This  will  cause  the  horse  to  stop, 
but  usually  he  will  start  on  again.  Repeat  the  command, 
and  pull,  and  continue  repeating,  until  the  colt  learns  to 
stand.  Do  not  let  him  go  back.  Appreciate  obedience 
by  a  caress  and  kind  treatment.  Give  a  little  something 
of  which  he  is  fond.  Remember  that  now  you  are  creating 
habits  that  will,  if  well  established,  last  for  life,  and  the 
safest  course  is  to  go  slow.  You  cannot  certainly  do  harm 
by  this  course ;  for  no  matter  how  awkward,  if  patient  and 
careful,  it  will  compensate  for  much  want  of  skill.  It  will 
also  give  the  colt  something  of  a  chance  to  learn  what  to 
do. 

Your  next  object  should  be  to  drive  the  colt  in  shafts. 
A  four-wheeled  wagon  is  not  the  thing  to  drive  in  at  first, 
because  so  bad  to  turn  with  ;  and  before  this  is  attempted 
you  must  know  the  colt  will  rein  freely  and  reliably.  A 
little  care  will  guard  you  from  possible  trouble,  and  the 


46 


THE   HARNESS   SHOULD   BE   CAREFULLY   FITTED. 


true  point  of  success  is  to  make  no  failures,  to  make  every 
step  sure,  and  when  you  get  your  horse  driving,  he  will  be 
as  safe  and  gentle  as  any  old  trained  horse.  To  make 
this  point  safely  and  easily,  I  devised  poles  for  the  purpose 
(cut  of  which  see).  It  answers  the  purpose  perfectly,  and 
costs  but  little. 

Get.  two  poles  about  twelve  to  fourteen  feet  in  length, 
common  saplings,  about  two  inches  in  diameter.  Lay 
them  down  in  the  form  of  shafts,  the  small  ends  forward, 
six  feet  six  to  eight  inches  from  the  forward  ends  ;  lay  on 
another  piece  of  pole,  same  size,  and  long  enough  to  ex- 
tend beyond  the  others  a  few  inches.  Tie  on  with  cords 


Driving  the  Colt  in  poles. 


or  straps.  Hitch  the  colt  into  these  poles,  attaching  the 
tugs  to  the  cross-piece  by  tying  with  cord,  or  any  other 
way  you  please,  and  drive  around  until  there  is  perfect 
submission  to  them,  guiding  promptly  to  the  reins,  and 
submitting  to  the  poles  striking  the  flanks  or  heels  without 
exciting  the  least  fear.  Just  as  soon  as  he  reins  well,  you 
are  all  right. 

THE  HARNESS  SHOULD  BE  CAKEFTTLLY  FITTED. 

As  to  after-work  I  can  say  but  little.  The  first  point 
to  which  I  would  call  your  special  attention  is  the  fitting 
of  the  harness.  It  should  in  every  respect  fit  well,  and 
should  not  be  drawn  too  tight  anywhere. 


THE    HARNESS    SHOULD   BE   CAREFULLY   FITTED.         47 

See  that  the  bridle  fits  well,  that  the  cheek-pieces  are 
long  enough  to  let  the  bit  rest  naturally  and  easily  in  the 
mouth  ;  that  the  throat-latch  is  not  so  tight  that  when  the 
head  is  pulled  up  it  does  not  press  against  the  throat. 
Let  every  part  fit  easily  and  naturally.  Buckling  too  tight 
anywhere  not  only  annoys,  but  obstructs  the  circulation. 
Drive  on  a  walk,  or  moderate  trot,  at  first.  Be  careful 
about  backing.  If  }ou  get  too  much  back,  there  is  danger 
of  the  colt  learning,  when  confused,  to  run  back  or  come 
back  too  freely.  This  must  not  on  any  condition  be 
encouraged  or  permitted. 

You  should  be  careful  about  driving  so  much  as  to  cause 
fatigue ;  neither  should  the  colt  be  required  to  draw  heavy 
loads  until  he  is  hardened,  and  has  learned  to  use  his 
strength.  If  he  shows  action,  and  you  wish  to  teach  him 
to  trot,  go  slow. 

After  learning  to  walk  well,  let  him  trot  a  little,  gradually 
letting  him  out  faster  and  a  little  farther,  as  smooth  pieces 
of  road  give  opportunity ;  restrict  these  little  outbursts 
of  speed  at  first  to  the  limits  of  a  few  rods.  Let  him 
dash  out  a  short  distance,  then  gradually  slacken  to  a 
walk,  speaking  kindly  and  encouragingly.  After  a  while, 
let  him  out  again,  pushing,  perhaps,  a  little  faster  and 
farther,  being  careful  not  to  crowd  to  breaking.  It  must 
not  be  expected  because  your  colt  is  perhaps  a  good 
mover,  that  he  will  be  &fast  trotter.  But  if  he  does  show 
a  loose  open  gait,  do  not  by  any  means  spoil  him  by 
attempting  too  much  at  first.  There  is  usually  too  much 
anxiety  to  try  a  colt's  speed  and  bottom  ;  and  he  is  often 
pushed,  overdone,  and  spoiled  perhaps,  before  his  powers 
are  half  developed. 

A  colt  must  not  be  crowded  too  much  at  the  start.  He 
cannot  be  expected  to  drive  like  an  old  horse,  without 
experience  and  practice.  He  must  grow  into  the  position, 
as  it  were ;  and  a  reasonable  patience  and  effort  is  neces- 
sary to  insure  this.  The  great  trouble  with  most  people, 
in  training  colts,  is,  they  attempt  too  much ;  and  doing  too 
much  now  is  liable  to  spoil  all. 


48  DRIVING  DOUBLE. 

DBIVING  DOUBLE. 

It  is  generally  the  custom  to  drive  the  colt  at  first  in 
double  harness  by  the  side  of  a  gentle  horse  accustomed 
to  harness.  The  colt  should  be  put  on  the  off  side.  The 
whip  should  be  held  over  the  old  horse,  to  keep  him  up  to 
the  movements  of  the  colt  in  starting,  but  the  gait  should 
be  kept  moderate.  «• 

After  driving  well  on  the  off  side,  the  colt  should  be  re- 
versed to  the  near  side,  there  being  less  danger  of  becoming 
frightened  from  getting  into  or  out  of  the  wagon,  or  of 
seeing  things  while  being  passed  to  or  from  the  wagon,  by 
being  more  from  view  on  the  off  side ;  therefore,  to  lessen 
the  probabilities  of  being  frightened,  it  is  preferable  at 
first. 

Let  the  driving  be  moderate  and  the  load  light,  and  by 
all  means,  if  the  colt  is  of  a  sensitive  or  nervous  tempera- 
ment, the  greatest  mildness  must  be  observed.  Loud 
"yelling"  or  cracking  of  the  whip  should  not  be  per- 
mitted. 

BACKING. 

After  learning  to  drive  well,  teach  the  idea  of  backing 
by  pulling  on  theorems  steadily,  and  saying  "  back."  If 
there  is  resistance,  give  a  quick,  sharp,  raking  pull,  which 
will  move  the  colt  by  the  pain  and  force  of  the  bit  back- 
ward, repeating  until  there  is  prompt  obedience.  If  there 
is  much  resistance,  put  on  breaking-bit,  which  will  soon 
secure  obedience  ;  but  under  any  circumstances  do  not 
make  the  colt  back  too  freely,  especially  if  the  mouth  is 
sensitive.  If  there  is  much  resistance  to  backing,  and  the 
colt  warms  up,  the  best  way  is  to  stop  until  cool.  Repeat 
lesson,  and  the  colt  will  soon  back  freely.  Be  careful  not 
to  force  to  back  too  freely.  A  little  too  much  disposition 
to  back  is  sometimes  hard  to  overcome.  Aim  to  get  just 
enough  and  stop. 

HIDING. 

If  the  colt  is  not  of  a  very  bad  character,  there  will  be 
no  resistance  to  being  ridden,  after  the  first  lesson  of 
subjection.  If  there  is,  attach  a  short  strap  or  a  piece  of 
rope  to  the  off  forefoot,  throwing  the  other  end  over  the 
back.  Take  a  short  hold  of  this  strap  with  the  right 


RIDING.  49 

hand,  while  the  left  grasps  the  near  rein  of  the  bridle 
firmly.  As  the  head  is  pulled  around,  the  horse  is  made 
to  step  sidewise,  and  the  instant  the  foot  is  relaxed  it  is 
held  up  by  the  restraint  of  the  right  hand  on  the  strap, 
which  is  instantly  drawn  upon.  The  colt  is  now  on  three 
legs,  and  unable  to  resist. 
Jump  lightly  on  the  back, 
press  the  feet  against  the  bel- 
ly and  flanks.  As  there  is 
submission,  release  the  foot, 
taking  a  firm  hold  of  the 
reins,  which  should  be  held 
short.  Move  the  colt  for- 
ward, and  if  there  is  an  indi- 
cation of  resistance,  pull  upon 
the  strap  and  reins,  which  will 

Hinahlp      and      HUrnnrert      thf»      Disabling  the   Colt   with    a  foot- 
strap  to  be  mounted. 

horse  from  further  opposition 

to  being  rode.  If  the  colt  will  not  move  forward,  request 
an  assistant  to  lead  him  by  the  head  for  a  short  time.  So 
long  as  there  is  any  indication  of  resistance,  keep  on  the 
strap.  One  thorough  lesson  is  usually  sufficient,  though 
some  colts  may  require  a  repetition  of  the  lesson. 

When  it  is  desired  to  mount,  let  the  left  hand  rest 
lightly  on  the  mane,  a  littlef  orward  of  the  withers,  holding 
the  reins  between  the  thumb  and  fingers.  Throw  the 
right  hand  lightly  on  the  back,  the  body  close  to  the  horse. 
Now  spring  lightly  upward  and  forward.  The  instant  of 
doing  so,  let  the  right  hand  glide  forward  until  the  elbow 
strikes  the  backbone,  when  the  weight  of  the  body  is  to  be 
instantly  balanced  upon  the  right  arm,  which  will  give 
sufficient  strength  to  make  the  spring  continuous,  and  the 
body  is  easily  brought  into  a  sitting  posture.  This  is  a 
slight  undertaking,  and  a  little  practice  will  give  the  ability 
to  mount  the  highest  horses  with  apparently  wonderful 
ease.  To  mount  on  a  saddle,  stand  by  the  side,  a  little 
back  of  the  stirrup,  the  face  towards  the  horse's  head. 
Take  a  short  hold  of  the  reins  between  the  fingers,  grasp- 
ing into  the  mane  at  the  same  time,  put  the  left  foot  into 
the  stirrup,  throw  the  right  hand  over  the  saddle  and  press 
it  against  the  off  side,  throwing  the  weight  of  the  body  on 


50  HANDLING  THE   FEET. 

the  left  foot,  and  you  can  lift  yourself  into  the   saddle 
easily. 

HANDLING  THE  PEET. 

All  this  should  be  done  when  the  colt  is  first  subjected 
to  treatment.  If  the  feet  are  then  taken  up  and  handled, 
there  will  be  no  after  trouble.  If  of  an  ordinary  good  dis- 
position, this  can  be  done  without  resorting  to  special 
means.  Stand  well  up  to  the  shoulder,  put  the  left  hand 
on  the  shoulder,  pressing  forward  gently,  which  will  relax 
the  muscles  controlling  the  leg,  with  the  right  hand  in- 
stantly grasp  the  foot  below  the  fetlock  and  lift  it  up, 
remove  the  left  hand,  and  bring  it  under  the  foot  to  aid  the 
right  hand.  To  handle  the  hind  feet,  let  the  right  hand 
glide  gently  from  the  shoulders  back  to  the  hip.  At  the 
instant  it  passes  the  point  of  the  hip,  bring  the  left  hand 
forward  upon  the  hip.  While  doing  this,  the  right  hand  is 
being  glided  down  the  leg  gently,  until  it  strikes  the  fet- 
lock, when  the  left  hand  should  be  pressed  firmly  against 
the  body  at  the  point  stated,  which  will  relax  the  limb,  and 
the  foot  can  be  easily  brought  up  by  the  right ;  the  left  is 
lowered,  and  passed  down  the  limb  on  the  back  part  of 
the  fetlock.  Or  the  foot  can  be  raised  and  lowered  a  few 
times  with  the  right  hand,  while  the  left  balances  the  body 
by  pressing  against  the  hip  until  there  is  perfect  submis- 
sion. 

If  there  is  resistance,  take  up  the  forefoot,  request  an 
assistant  to  hold  it  up  for  you,  while  he  at  the  same  time 
holds  the  colt  by  the  halter  or  bridle.  Tie  the  end  of  a 
rope  or  strap  around  the  hind  foot,  above  the  fetlock,  at 
the  instant  of  doing  which  let  the  hand  glide  along  to  the 
opposite  part,  until  six  or  eight  feet  from  the  foot.  At 
the  same  time  request  the  forward  foot  to  be  let  loose,  the 
assistant  holding  by  the  halter.  Now  pull  upon  the  strap, 
which  will  bring  the  foot  forward,  and,  at  the  instant  of 
attempting  to  kick,  let  go,  and  so  repeat  until  the  foot  is 
submitted  to  the  restraint  of  strap.  Then  slip  behind  and 
pull  the  foot  back,  and,  as  before,  yielding  at  each  effort  to 
kick,  let  go,  until  the  foot  is  submitted  freely.  Now  take 
the  foot  from  the  control  of  the  strap  to  the  hand,  and 
handle  gently. 

If  there  is  very  determined  resistance,  tie  the  end  of 


HANDLING   THE   FEET.  51 

your  long  strap  around  the  neck,  near  the  shoulders,  pass 
the  other  end  back  between  the  forelegs,  around  the  hind 
foot,  but  under  the  strap  around  the  neck,  and  draw  up  on 
it,  at  the  same  time  holding  him  by  the  bridle  or  halter. 
The  colt  may  be  frightened,  and  jump  to  get  clear  of  the 
restraint.  Should  he  act  very  much  frightened,  slack  up 
on  the  strap  until  the  foot  is  almost  back  to  its  natural 
position.  Then,  as  he  will  bear,  again  pull  a  little  shorter, 
at  the  same  time  pulling  him  round  in  a  circle  by  the  head, 
until  he  ceases  struggling  to  get  the  foot  loose.  You  may 
now  pull  the  foot  farther  foward,  and  hold  it  as  before, 
until  he  will  stand  quietly.  Now  step  back  a  little,  and 
pass  the  hand  down  the  hind  leg.  Slap  the  hand  upon 
the  leg  a  little,  until  there  is  no  resistance ;  then  take  it  in 
the  hands.  If  there  is  no  resistance,  undo  the  end  of  the 
strap  and  allow  the  foot  a  little  more  freedom;  at  the 
same  time,  while  holding  the  foot  by  the  strap,  pass  the 
hand  from  the  hip  down  the  leg,  quietly,  rubbing  and  ca- 
ressing until  able  to  take  it  in  the  hands. 

Handle  the  opposite  leg  in  the  same  manner,  until 
there  is  perfect  submission.  Should  the  colt  resist  having 
the  feet  handled  with  much  determination,  or  prove  very 
vicious,  use  the  double  hitch,  or  go  back  to  the  regular 
subjective  treatment.  Those  of  -a  wildish,  mustang  dis- 
position are  the  most  obstinate :  there  is  once  in  a  while 
one  of  this  class  that  will  call  for  pretty  thorough  and  pa- 
tient treatment  to  make  gentle.  They  are  not  only  so 
plucky,  but  so  strong  and  enduring,  that  they  are  disposed 
to  resist  control  of  the  feet  at  all  hazards.  It  is  of  great 
importance  that  colts  are  treated  with  great  kindness : 
giving  apples,  a  little  oats,  &c.,  after  submitting  the  feet, 
or  being  otherwise  handled,  as  the  real  cause  of  trouble  is 
fear ;  and  a  little  flattery  in  this  way  has  a  powerful  effect 
in  winning  the  confidence,  and  thus  of  winning  obedience. 
All  this  is  now  so  easily  done  when  necessary  by  the  ordi- 
nary subjective  course,  that  it  seems  needless  to  dwell  on 
minor  conditions  and  details :  you  must  bear  in  mind  that 
bad  cases  call  for  a  little  work  and  patience,  and  that  you 
must  be  not  only  thorough,  but  prudent,  to  be  successful. 


PREVENTING  AND  OVERCOMING  FEAR. 


IF  you  start  right,  there  is  but  little  trouble  in  making  a 
colt  or  horse  entirely  indifferent  to  any  of  the  ordinary 
causes  of  fear.  The  main  point  is  not  to  force  the  object 
or  sound  too  quickly  or  suddenly  upon  the  attention  when 
you  touch  the  quarters,  and  let  the  shafts  upon  the  hind 
parts,  as  explained  at  the  commencement,  on  page  37.  He 
was  first  so  disabled,  and  the  reason  so  thrown  out  of 
balance,  that  all  this  could  be  done  with  perfect  success  in 
a  few  minutes.  If,  however,  the  colt  is  of  a  quick,  nervous 
character,  but  little  force  is  necessary,  simply  bringing  the 
objects  to  notice  as  slowly  as  you  can.  Whatever  is  very 
unusual  attracts  the  attention  quickest.  If  you  happened 
to  drive  by  a  house  on  a  road  not  much  travelled,  every 
one  in  the  house  would  crowd  to  the  window  to  see  you. 
In  a  city  a  crowd  may  pass  without  notice,  because  of 
common  and  familiar  occurrence.  Horses  used  around  a 
depot,  in  the  midst  of  moving  trains,  for  a  short  time,  will 
soon  cease  to  notice  the  noise  and  excitement  of  the  en- 
gines and  cars ;  while  a  horse  not  accustomed  to  them, 
when  driven  unexpectedly  near  them,  would  be  excited  to 
great  fear  of  them.  I  was  present  once  when  four  horses, 
entirely  unaccustomed  to  the  noise  of  a  band,  were  at- 
tached to  a  band-wagon  :  the  first  note  and  tap  of  the 
drum  excited  them  almost  beyond  control.  I  directed  the 
band  to  get  ten  rods  behind  and  commence  playing  very 
lightly,  gradually  coming  nearer  and  playing  stronger 
until  they  came  up  to  the  wagon.  I  now  had  them  get  in, 
and  directed  them  to  commence  as  lightly  as  they  could, 
and  gradually  increase.  In  ten  minutes  the  band  could 
play  with  entire  freedom,  without  the  horses  caring  any 
thing  for  the  noise  and  excitement.  If  the  band  had 
struck  into  playing  quickly  and  unexpectedly,  as  usual,  at 

52 


PREVENTING  AND  OVERCOMING  FEAR.        53 

first,  the  horses  would  have  been  frightened  beyond  all  con- 
trol, and  spoiled.  The  principle  is  the  same  with  any  thing 
else.  The  point  is  not  to  throw  the  mind  off  its  balance 
by  exciting  it  so  suddenly  and  strongly  as  to  be  unable 
to  obtain  an  understanding  of  the  nature  and  character 
of  the  object  or  sound.  Let  so  much  only  be  brought  to 
notice  as  there  is  ability  to  understand,  gradually  repeat- 
ing as  may  be  necessary.  It  is  fear  that  causes  the  colt 
to  kick,  and  resist  being  touched  ;  consequently  we  have  a 
great  many  colts  that  are  afraid  of  shafts,  and  will  kick  if 
touched  around  the  quarters  or  belly.  I  have  shown  how 
easy  it  is  to  make  such  gentle,  and  so  safe  that  they  will 
not  resist  the  cross-piece  and  whiffletrees  coming  against 
the  quarters.  Now,  all  this  I  do,  with  some  rare  excep- 
tions, by  putting  the  horse  in  a  condition  to  overcome 
this  fear,  which  I  can  easily  do,  and  the  cause  of  the 
whole  trouble  is  overcome  as  if  by  magic.  Doing  this 
as  it  should  be,  as  I  teach,  removes  all  the  danger  and 
trouble  from  this  cause,  and  enables  doing  in  a  few  min- 
utes what  is  the  cause  of  so  much  danger  and  trouble, 
including  the  great  loss  of  time,  by  the  common  system  of 
breaking. 

The  thing  to  be  accomplished  is  to  overcome  all  fear  of 
being  touched,  or  of  any  noise  from  behind,  until  we  are 
able  to  make  and  hold  this  point  by  the  ordinary  control 
of  the  reins  and  bit.  We  see  it  is  almost  sheer  madness 
to  attempt  making  bad  colts  safe  in  harness ;  for  it  is  seen 
if  the  quarters  of  such  are  suddenly  and  unexpectedly 
touched  by  the  shafts,  or  even  the  touching  of  a  strap,  it 
is  likely  to  cause  so  much  fear  and  sense  of  danger  as  to 
excite  the  animal  to  run  and  kick  beyond  all  control. 
The  fears  once  excited  in  this  way,  we  have  the  habit  es- 
tablished of  the  wagon  and  harness  being  thereafter  a 
cause  of  the  greatest  terror.  The  principle  is  the  same 
with  a  robe,  umbrella,  blanket,  or  any  thing  else.  The 
trouble  is  owing  to  being  forced  to  notice  so  quickly  and 
unexpectedly,  that  the  innocent  character  of  the  object 
could  not  be  understood.  It  is  not  a  little  wonder- 
ful, too,  how  intense  an  aversion  of  an  object  may  be 
created  by  an  almost  instantaneous  impression.  When 
in  Cleveland,  O.,  a  horse  owned  by  Dr.  Keegan  was 


54        PREVENTING  AND  OVERCOMING  FEAR. 

brought  in  for  treatment,  reported  to  be  afraid  of  a  blan- 
ket :  this  horse  did  not  have  a  blanket  upon  him  for  seven 
years,  and  he  would  act  furiously  vicious  the  moment 
shown  one.  All  this  was  caused  by  a  gust  of  wind  rais- 
ing a  blanket  from  his  back,  that  had  been  thrown  upon 
him  while  standing  in  the  street,  and  falling  under  his 
belly,  and  frightening  him  greatly.  This  horse  would 
squeal,  strike,  and  kick,  and  his  eyes  blazed  like  balls  of 
of  fire,  when  shown  a  blanket.  It  was  only  by  great  care 
and  effort  that  I  was  able  to  make  him  submit  to  be 
touched  with  one,  and  submit  to  be  covered  with  it.  A 
horse  brought  me  in  Greencastle,  Penn.,  years  ago,  was  so 
much  afraid  of  a  robe,  that  he  would  get  away,  or  kill  any 
one,  if  he  could,  who  would  bring  a  robe  near  him.  With  a 
robe  behind  me,  and  only  showing  one  corner  of  it,  though 
distant  from  me  fifty  feet,  the  horse  was  completely  frantic, 
and  I  believe  would  have  died  from  the  shock,  if  treated 
too  precipitately.  By  careful,  energetic  treatment,  I  was 
able  in  less  than  an  hour  to  make  my  success  complete, 
the  horse  becoming  entirely  indifferent  to  it.  It  was  re- 
garded a  great  feat.  This  was  one  of  my  little  episodes 
of  trial,  the  horse  acting  fearfully  wild  and  bad  before  the 
class,  and  at  first  I  made  no  apparent  progress  in  making 
him  submit  to  the  robe  being  brought  near  him.  The 
owner  and  every  member  of  the  class  said,  "  There  was  no 
use,  that  the  horse  could  not  be  broken."  Their  perfidy 
of  purpose,  too,  was  so  manifest,  to  break  me  down  if 
they  could,  that  I  was  roused  to  vindicate  myself  at  all 
hazards.  To  the  owner,  on  the  instant,  I  pledged  in 
cash  the  value  of  the  horse  as  assurance  that  he  would 
not  be  injured.  To  the  class  I  said,  If  I  do  not  succeed, 
and  perfectly,  I  will  pay  every  man  back  the  money  he 
paid  me.  I  demand  silence  and  time  as  my  right,  with- 
out favor.  I  went  to  work  as  if  for  life,  and  succeeded. 
But  it  was  a  close  call.  Nothing  short  of  sharp,  heroic 
work  would  do  ;  and  by  careful  work  I  made  the  reforma- 
tion perfect.  The  owner  led  his  horse  home  with  a  robe 
over  his  back  and  neck ;  the  horse  as  indifferent  to  it  as 
if  never  afraid  of  it.  They  all  declared  it  the  most  won- 
derful performance  ever  seen  of  the  kind.  Every  man, 
if  necessary,  would  have  fought  for  me ;  and  every  man 


PREVENTING  AND   OVERCOMING   FEAR.  55 

followed  me  to  the  next  town  the  day  following.  That 
was  many  years  ago,  and  was  one  of  the  many  little  epi- 
sodes of  trial  to  which  I  have  been  subjected  in  my  long 
experience,  but  which  were  necessary  to  give  me  whatever 
of  success  I  am  now  able  to  exhibit.  The  Petroleum 
horse,  Wild  Pete,  referred  to  on  page  14,  was  moved  in 
his  viciousness  almost  wholly  by  fear  :  he  was  so  wild  and 
afraid  of  any  thing  touching  him,  that  with  one  leg  tied 
up,  and  with  the  control  of  the  war-bridle,  a  means  of 
the  greatest  possible  power  upon  the  head,  when  I  touched 
the  hind  quarters  lightly  with  the  lash  of  a  long  whip  he 
was  so  frightened  that  he  sprang  into  the  air,  and  got 
away  from  me,  running  fully  a  half  a  mile,  at  every  jump 
kicking  in  the  most  fearful  manner  ;  yet  one  lesson  of  an 
hour  completely  broke  up  all  this  fear,  and  left  the  horse 
as  gentle,  safe,  and  manageable  for  any  one  to  drive  and 
use  as  could  be  desired. 

The  Press  horse,  broken  by  me  in  Buffalo,  N.Y.,  re- 
ferred to  on  p.  12,  was  moved  wholly  by  fear.  Any  thing 
like  the  shafts  of  a  wagon  was  an  object  of  terror  to  him. 
A  year  before  this  horse  was  treated  by  me,  four  of  the 
best  horsemen  of  Gowanda,  N.Y.,  who  had  taken  lessons 
in  that  place  a  short  time  before,  of  a  travelling  horse- 
tamer,  so  called,  determined  to  apply  the  treatment  to 
the  Press  horse.  They  clubbed  together  to  get  the  neces- 
sary rigging  used  by  this  man,  which  was,  by  the  way,  quite 
complicated  and  expensive,  but  indispensable.  They 
led  the  horse  a  mile  out  of  town,  worked  hard  half  a  day 
upon  him,  all  ending  in  the  horse  getting  away,  and  going 
flying  into  town  with  ropes  and  rigging  hanging  about  him. 
It  was  a  disastrous  failure  ;  and  I  need  not  add  that  horse- 
taming  was  at  a  discount,  and  a  term  of  derision  in  that 
town.  When,  the  next  morning,  after  being  subjected  to 
treatment  by  me,  I  drove  this  horse  in  the  street  (three  of 
these  men  —  Mr.  Vosburg,  a  liveryman  and  a  really  good 
horseman,  being  one  of  them  —  were  stopping  at  Brown's 
Hotel,  it  being  race-week  in  Buffalo  ;  and  all  the  horsemen 
in  that  section  of  country  were  in  the  city),  they  were 
more  than  astonished.  They  desired  me  to  unhitch  the 
horse,  rattle  the  shafts,  all  of  which  I  did,  even  driving 
him  without  breeching,  the  horse  acting  as  gentle  and 


56        PREVENTING  AND  OVERCOMING  FEAR. 

quiet  as  any  old  thoroughly-trained  horse  could.  They 
said  that  beat  them  ;  that  they  could  not  see  how  on  earth 
I  could,  in  so  short  a  time,  make  so  complete  a  change  in 
him ;  that  he  was  the  most  fearful  horse  they  had  ever 
seen ;  and  that  they  could  not  believe  it  possible  that  he 
could  be  made  so  gentle  and  safe.  But  there  was  the 
simple  fact ;  Press  and  all  were  there  ;  it  was  the  same 
horse  brought  into  the  city  the  day  before,  and  was 
treated  by  me  in  the  presence  of  a  class  of  over  a  hun- 
dred. Such  feats  as  these  are  what  startle  a  people ;  and 
I  need  not  add  that  this,  with  other  feats  of  control,  gave 
me  great  success  in  that  section  of  the  country  at  the 
time. 

Nearly  every  kicking,  runaway  colt  and  horse  is  moved 
by  fear  ;  and  I  refer  at  this  length  to  the  cases  above 
mentioned,  to  show  the  practicability  of  breaking  such 
horses,  and  making  them  safe  when  right  principles  gov- 
ern the  efforts.  I  would  state  here  that  an  impression  of 
fear  may  be  made  so  intense  as  to  destroy  life,  or  shatter 
the  nervous  system  to  a  degree  that  partially  or  wholly 
destroys  the  reason.  This  possibility  you  cannot  over- 
look. When  a  man  tells  me  his  horse  is  afraid  of  an 
object,  I  tell  him,  if  bad,  I  must  see  the  horse,  to  learn 
how  much,  if  any,  the  nervous  system  has  been  deranged. 
The  expression  of  the  eye,  when  a  little  excited,  will  enable 
determining  this.  I  am  now  referring  to  what  is  possible, 
not  what  is  to  be  expected  in  cases  of  average  kicking 
runaway  scrapes,  or  ordinary  fear  of  a  robe,  umbrellas, 
and  other  objects  of  this  nature.  One  or  two  sharp  lessons 
ought  to  overcome  these  difficulties.  All  impressions,  it  is 
supposed,  are  made  upon  a  series  of  concentric  nerves  in 
the  brain,  called  ganglia,  which  retain  or  throw  off  impres- 
sions by  reflex  action.  Success  gives  confidence  ;  failure 
and  injury,  an  undue  sensibility  to  fear.  If  the  cars  come 
upon  you  suddenly  and  frighten  your  horse,  causing  a  run- 
away scrape,  the  sudden  and  close  proximity  of  a  train  of 
cars  afterwards  would  cause  anxiety  while  driving  even  a 
gentle  horse.  But  the  horse  reasons  from  the  effect  upon 
his  nervous  system  and  the  side  of  his  reason  acted 
directly  upon.  He  may  be  in  a  position  of  danger,  but 
not  knowing  it  is  indifferent ;  while  that  which  seems  dan- 


DETAILS.  57 

gerous  may  throw  him  into  a  panic  of  fear,  though  not 
touched.  Now,  the  point  is,  to  make  the  horse  able  to 
see  and  understand  that  the  object,  whatever  it  is,  is 
harmless  ;  but  he  must  be  fully  convinced  of  this  from  all 
sides  of  his  understanding.  And  here,  certain  conditions 
and  principles  of  treatment  must  necessarily  govern  the 
efforts,  or  there  will  be  possibility  of  failure. 

DETAILS. 

The  first  great  difficulty  here,  if  the  case  is  bad,  is  to 
be  able  to  control  the  horse  as  desired,  so  that  you  can 
reason  the  matter  with  him.  I  would  remind  here  that 
the  most  dangerous  cases  are  those  that  are  usually  gentle 
until  the  object  or  cause,  whatever  it  is,  is  brought  to 
notice,  when  terror  makes  the  horse  both  strike  and  kick 
with  the  fury  of  desperation.  Such  horses  must  be  made 
to  yield  perfectly  to  control.  The  second  method  of  sub- 
jection seems  to  accomplish  this  end  best.  The  action  of 
the  mind  is  almost  suspended ;  and  the  horse  is  at  once 
rendered  helpless,  when  you  can  safely  reach  him  with  the 
object.  You  should  in  all  cases  treat  the  horse  out  of 
doors,  and,  as  nearly  as  you  can,  in  the  very  position  of 
resistance.  No  matter  how  apparently  gentle  a  horse 
may  become  by  treatment  in  a  barn  or  building,  when  he 
is  taken  out  of  doors  he  seems  to  forget  it  all,  making 
serious  disappointment  and  possible  trouble.  He  must 
be  treated  outside  of  the  barn  or  building  where  he  sees 
the  object  in  use,  and  where  you  can  be  free  from  all 
causes  of  excitement.  Again,  you  must  not  on  any 
account  overlook  the  value  of  kindness  and  encourage- 
ment in  the  treatment  for  fear.  If,  for  example,  afraid  of 
a  robe,  when  you  are  able  to  bring  it  to  the  head  and  over 
the  body,  give  a  little  apple,  oats,  or  any  thing  else  of 
which  fond,  to  attract  the  mind,  and  associate  with  it  sin- 
cerity and  kindness. 

A  ROBE. 

While  held  under  careful  restraint,  let  the  robe  be 
brought  up  gently  to  the  horse's  nose.  After  smelling  and 
feeling  of  it  in  his  own  way  until  satisfied,  rub  it  gently 
against  the  head,  neck  and  body,  the  way  the  hair  lies,  as 


58  AN   UMBRELLA    OR   PARASOL. 

he  will  bear.  Then  stand  off  a  little,  and  throw  it  across 
the  back,  over  the  neck  and  head,  gradually  stepping 
farther,  until  you  can  throw  the  robe  upon  him  as  you 
please. 

Should  you  do  any  thing  in  the  barn,  you  must  repeat 
the  same  out  of  doors.  You  must  ako  make  him  see  and 
feel  the  robe  behind,  before,  and  on  each  side.  Should 
he  be  at  all  dangerous,  subject  him  to  the  second  or  first 
course  of  subjection  ;  and  once  under  control,  go  on  as 
before  described  in  familiarizing  the  understanding  to  it. 
Very  often,  all  you  need  to  do  is  to  take  the  horse  by  the 
halter,  work  slowly  and  gently,  and  you  can  soon  throw 
it  upon  him  as  you  please,  safely.  Repeat  the  lesson, 
always  rewarding  and  encouraging  with  little  presents. 
Sometimes  the  horse  seems  to  be  afraid  of  the  smell,  and 
will  not  become  reconciled  to  it.  In  that  case  take  a  bit 
of  the  robe,  tie  it  around  the  bit,  and  put  it  in  the  mouth 
for  awhile,  and  this  feeling  will  soon  disappear. 

AN  UMBBELLA  OB  PABASOL. 

While  holding  the  horse  by  the  halter  or  bridle,  as  may 
be  necessary,  bring  the  umbrella  to  his  nose,  gently  rub  it 
against  the  head,  neck  and  body,  as  he  will  bear,  spread- 
ing it  a  little,  repeating  the  process  of  rubbing,  and  so 
continue,  gaining  little  by  little,  until  you  can  raise  the 
umbrella  over  the  head,  and  pass  it  around  the  body  as 
you  please,  without  exciting  fear  or  resistance. 

SOUND  OF  A  GUN. 

First,  commence  by  snapping  caps  a  short  distance  from 
the  horse,  gradually,  as  he  will  bear,  approaching  nearer, 
until  you  can  snap  caps  while  the  gun  is  resting  upon  the 
back,  over  the  head,  etc.  Then  put  in  a  little  powder, 
and  at  each  repetition  increase  the  charge,  until  you  can 
fire  off  a  heavy  load  without  exciting  fear. 

BAILBOAD  CABS. 

Let  the  horse  see  them  at  rest,  then  gradually  lead  or 
drive  him  up  to  them,  even  to  smelling  them  with  his 
nose.  Now,  as  you  have  an  opportunity,  drive  around 
while  they  are  moving,  working  up  nearer  as  you  can,  and 


TOP   WAGON.  59 

at  the  same  time  turning  him  around  so  that  he  can  see 
and  hear  them  from  different  directions.  This  lesson 
should  be  often  repeated,  being  careful  not  to  crowd  be- 
yond what  will  be  borne  easily,  until  they  cease  to  attract 
his  serious  attention. 

A  horse  once  really  frightened,  must  be  taken  out  of 
doors,  and  brought  under  thorough  subjection  by  the  first 
and  second  courses  of  subjection.  Get  good  control  of 
the  mouth,  make  every  point  sure,  and  now  drive  around 
as  before  described. 

TOP  WAGOtf. 

If  necessary,  use  second  and  third  courses  of  subjec- 
tion. Next,  see  that  you  have  perfect  control  of  the 
mouth  with  the  bit;  now  with  an  umbrella,  commence 
gradually  at  the  nose,  and  work  slowly,  shutting  and  open- 
ing it,  going  on  each  side  alike,  at  the  same  time,  giving 
apples  or  any  thing  of  which  he  is  fond.  From  behind,  re- 
peat, first  passing  the  umbrella  gradually  back  over  the  hips 
from  the  shoulders,  and  finally  getting  behind,  when  you 
are  to  take  the  reins,  starting  and  stopping,  raising  slowly, 
lowering,  closing  and  opening  the  umbrella.  Make  this 
the  object  of  quite  a  thorough,  careful  lesson.  Now  hitch 
to  a  wagon,  with  top  down,  or  partially  so.  Be  sure  you 
have  power  enough  to  hold  the  horse  with  the  bit  while 
standing.  Commence  again  in  the  same  gradual  manner, 
and  work  back.  Do  not  by  any  means  attempt  to  drive 
right  off,  and  raise  the  umbrella  or  top  suddenly  on  the 
road :  if  you  do,  you  will  undo  your  work.  Be  very  cau- 
tious about  this :  a  little  care  and  time  now,  is  what  will 
do  your  work.  If  the  horse  is  nervous,  get  out  and  to  his 
head,  over  and  over,  working  back  as  before.  Remember 
the  fear  is  really  in  connection  with  the  wagon,  and  this 
is  the  difficulty  to  be  overcome.  The  umbrella  is  the  top 
to  his  imagination ;  reconcile  him  to  this  carefully.  You 
can  also  raise  and  lower  the  top,  and  let  him  smell  and 
see  it  on  every  side,  before  being  put  in  the  shafts.  Re- 
member it  is  an  entirely  new  thing  to  him ;  when  he  is 
backed  into  the  shafts,  and  this  is  the  end  you  are  working 
for,  to  reach  his  mind  to  be  convinced  upon ;  move  a 
little,  while  the  umbrella  is  over  your  head:  stop  and 


60  USING    BLINDERS. 

start,  over  and  over,  until  he  does  not  mind  it;  now 
quietly  put  down  the  umbrella  and  raise  the  top  two-thirds, 
and  lower  it,  if  you  can,  gently.  Move  slowly  as  you  can, 
or  even  come  down  to  standing  again  ;  he  will  be  much 
less  afraid  while  standing,  than  when  in  motion  ;  so  work 
up  to  speed  slowly,  until  the  top  can  be  kept  up.  You 
should  for  a  few  times,  before  being  hitched,  let  him  see 
and  smell  of  the  top,  and  hitch  in  very  gently. 

I  break  all  horses  without  blinders,  forcing  obedience  as 
I  desire.  I  make  success  sure.  But  when  a  strong,  wilful 
or  nervous  horse  is  once  greatly  frightened  at  a  top,  it  is 
sometimes  a  serious  matter.  I  take  into  consideration  the 
fact  that  many  who  attend  my  lectures  are  timid,  and  will 
not  try  to  do  much  with  a  bad  horse  of  this  nature ;  so  I 
have  thought.it  advisable  to  give  this  slow  patient  course  of 
treatment.  If  I  have  a  bad  horse  of  this  kind,  I  take  him 
out  in  the  orchard  or  field,  and  subject  him  to  first  and 
second  courses  of  subjection  rapidly.  I  put  on  harness  and 
under  the  bridle  the  double  draw-hitch,  and  in  ten  or 
fifteen  minutes  take  the  starch  out  of  him ;  then  I  drive 
around,  depending  upon  the  bit,  and  at  once  put  him  into 
shafts,  and  force  him  up  until  perfectly  obedient :  this 
makes  it  simple.  If  you  are  timid  and  careful,  take  your 
time,  and  work  sure.  A  few  hours'  time  is  nothing,  while 
the  safety  of  a  good  horse  is  a  great  object.  I  would  say 
here,  if  you  do  not  make  the  horse  positively  safe,  it  is 
better  and  cheaper  for  you  to  shoot  him,  than  take  the 
chances  of  exposing  yourself  to  accidents  by  driving  him. 
His  place  is  before  the  plough  or  other  farm-work  that 
does  not  endanger  life. 

USING  BLINDEKS. 

A  lazy  horse  will  drive  better  with  blinders  than  with- 
out. If  the  whip  is  raised  he  will  spring  ahead  violently, 
but  when  he  sees  it  put  down,  will  drop  back  again.  Blind- 
ers should  be  used  on  such.  A  horse  with  a  large,  coarse- 
looking  head  will  look  better  with  blinders,  as  they  conceal 
the  effects  of  such  a  head.  A  spirited,  intelligent  horse 
will  be  more  courageous  and  drives  steadier  without  blind- 
ers, when  he  can  see  things  around  him  plainly.  Blinders 
are  often  badly  fitted  and  liable  to  do  harm  to  the  eyes. 


EXCITING   OBJECTS   WHILE   DRIVING.  61 

If  used,  they  should  not  come  too  near  the  eyes.  If  the 
horse  will  drive  better  by  concealing  the  wagon,  let  them 
be  wide  enough,  or  far  enough  above  the  eyes,  to  prevent 
seeing  over  them. 

OBJECTS  EXCITING  FEAR  WHILE  RIDING  OR 
DRIVING. 

Should  the  horse  show  fear  of  a  stone  or  stump,  or 
any  thing  of  the  kind,  he  will  naturally  stop,  and  stare  at 
the  object  in  an  excited  manner.  Should  the  cause  of 
fear  be  great  and  sudden,  he  may  attempt  to  turn  round 
and  run  away.  This  is  to  be  guarded  against,  by  sitting 
well  forward  on  the  seat,  and  taking  a  short  hold  of  the 
reips,  at  the  same  time  speaking  calmly  and  encouragingly 
to  the  horse. 

Speak  encouragingly  to  the  horse,  but  keep  a  close 
watch  upon  his  actions.  In  a  short  time  his  alarm  will  be 
lessened.  Then  drive  nearer,  as  he  will  bear,  exercising 
the  same  patience  and  care.  At  each  step  nearer,  the 
horse  will  show  renewed  fear.  Keep  pushing,  a  little  at  a 
time,  as  the  horse  will  bear,  until  you  can  drive  up  to  the 
object,  or  by  it,  and  you  not  only  leave  no  bad  impression 
upon  the  mind,  but  gradually  overcome  the  disposition  to 
become  frightened. 

Sometimes  a  horse  will  dislike  a  wheelbarrow,  baby- 
wagon,  turkeys,  &c.  •  but  the  treatment  is  the  same.  When 
the  excitement  is  not  so  great  as  to  endanger  successful 
resistance,  and  the  horse  is  disposed  to  "play  off,  or 
soldier,"  it  may  be  advisable  to  apply  the  whip  a  little 
sharply,  but  this  is  to  be  avoided  when  it  is  seen  the 
resistance  is  wholly  caused  by  fear,  and  is  not  from  laziness. 

Some  horses,  while  driven  to  carriages,  will  not  bear  the 
noise  and  excitement  of  other  horses  being  driven  up 
behind.  This  is  principally  on  account  of  the  horse's  ina- 
bility to  see  and  understand  the  cause  of  the  excitement, 
or  it  may  be  owing  to  the  fault  of  the  driver.  Some  one 
drives  up  rapidly  behind,  perhaps  wishes  to  "  go  by," 
and  then  the  colt  is  hallooed  at  and  whipped  up  to 
prevent  such  a  result.  This  may  be  repeated  a  few  times  ; 
and  the  consequence  is,  if  a  spirited  horse,  the  habit  is 
learned  of  rushing  ahead  to  avoid  the  punishment  expected 


62     OBJECTS  MUST  BE  SEEN  FROM  DIFFERENT  POSITIONS. 

under  such  circumstances  ;  and  very  often,  too,  a  horse  is 
forced  into  this  habit  by  being  run  into  from  behind. 

MUST  SEE  THE  OBJECT  FBOM  DIFFERENT  POSITIONS. 

It  is  one  of  the  peculiarities  of  the  horse  to  understand 
and  be  reconciled  to  an  object  or  cause  of  excitement  only 
from  the  position  and  circumstances  brought  to  his  notice. 
This  seems  to  be  on  account  of  the  horse's  reasoning  powers 
being  so  limited  as  to  be  unable  to  retain  the  same  under- 
standing of  the  object  beyond  the  position  from  which  it 
was  seen. 

Every  progressive  change  of  position  requires  almost  the 
same  care  and  patience  as  that  preceding.  For  example  :  if 
in  teaching  a  horse  to  submit  to  an  umbrella,  if  it  were 
shown  only  from  the  near  side,  upon  carrying  it  to  the  off 
side,  it  would  inspire  nearly  as  much  fear  as  at  first  from  the 
near  side,  or  there  may  be  an  aversion  to  some  particular 
object ;  or  resistance  may  be  inspired  only  under  certain  cir- 
cumstances. You  may  succeed  in  getting  a  colt  gentle  to 
be  rode  from  the  near  side,  but  an  attempt  to  mount  him 
from  the  off  side  would  make  him  resist. 

If  a  horse  is  afraid  of  an  umbrella  while  in  harness,  he 
may  be  taught  to  care  nothing  about  it  out  of  harness  ;  but 
if  not  taught  to  feel  and  understand  its  character  in  harness, 
he  would  be  apt  to  be  as  much  frightened  at  it  in  that  posi- 
tion as  if  he  knew  nothing  about  it. 

This  seems  to  puzzle  many  well-meaning  men,  and  is  often 
the  cause  of  much  disappointment. 

A  horse  that  is  afraid  of  an  umbrella  is  brought  forward 
to  illustrate  the  management  of  such  habits.  In  a  short 
time  the  horse  will  bear  the  umbrella  over  and  around  him 
in  any  manner,  without  seeming  to  care  any  thing  about  it. 
The  owner  is  pleased  with  the  belief  that  his  horse  is  broken ; 
when  in  harness  at  some  future  time,  he  raises  an  umbrella 
behind  the  animal,  and  is  astonished  to  find  him  almost  as 
bad  as  ever,  and  he  is  disappointed.  But  when  it  is  seen,  in 
the  first  place,  that  it  is  often  necessary  to  repeat  the  treat- 
ment, to  expect  the  animal  to  be  broken  of  the  habit 
by  a  single  indirect  lesson,  only  tends  to  defeat  success. 
For  the  inability  to  control  the  horse,  and  force  upon  him 
the  object  of  aversion,  may  cause  trouble,  since  the  least 


OBJECTS  MUST  BE  SEEN  FROM  DIFFERENT  POSITIONS.     63 

sense  of  freedom  tends  to  increase  fear  of  the  object.  Now, 
the  efforts  of  the  owner  to  control  the  horse  directly,  in  a 
position  of  great  disadvantage,  may  produce  this  result ;  and 
then,  from  an  ignorance  of  the  cause  of  failure,  he  believes  it 
is  impossible  to  overcome  the  habit. 

The  lesson  must  be  repeated,  as  long  as  may  be  necessary 
to  the  end  of  perfect  success,  or  the  horse,  once  excited,  is 
liable  to  drift  back  to  being  almost  as  bad  as  before. 


KICKING  IN  HARNESS. 


KICKING,  in  the  first  place,  is  the  natural  outgrowth  of 
the  old  system  of  breaking  horses,  which  depends  wholly 
for  success  upon  the  wearing-in  process.  No  effort  at  all 
is  made  to  show  the  horse  the  nature  and  character  of 
what  is  behind  him.  He  is  put  in  harness,  and  driven. 
If  nothing  occurs  to  excite  his  fears  and  resistance,  he  is 
likely  to  work  in  gently,  but  if  a  horse  of  spirit,  if  any 
thing  touches  his  quarters,  or  any  thing  unusual  occurs  to 
excite  him,  the  habit  is  excited.  As  kicking  is  the  horse's 
principal  means  of  defence  when  caused  by  fear,  and  the 
horse  is  a  courageous,  determined  fellow,  there  is  great 
persistence  in  the  habit. 

In  -the  first  place,  if  we  touch  a  colt  anywhere  in  the 
flanks  or  quarters,  and  the  animal  kicks,  repeat  the  irrita- 
tion and  kicking  will  soon  become  a  confirmed  habit.  If 
a  mare  is  irritated  by  touching,  or  pricking  her  in  the 
flanks,  she  will  soon  by  repetition  become  so  nervous  and 
sensitive  that  she  will  squeal  and  make  water  when  so 
touched.  A  good,  quiet  nature  can  by  this  kind  of  bad 
treatment  and  abuse  be  soon  transformed  into  a  squealing 
kicker,  ever  ready  to  kick  or  fight  at  the  least  indication 
of  having  any  thing  pointed  toward  her,  or  touched  on  the 
quarters.  Pull  a  line  under  a  colt's  tail  until  he  kicks  ; 
repeat  the  trick  a  few  times,  and  you  have  a  horse  that  will 
surely  kick  if  the  rein  is  caught  under  the  tail.  Here, 
then,  we  see  in  principle  the  cause  of  kicking  in  harness, 
and  the  true  policy  of  preventing  it.  Now,  the  colt  is 
pricked  and  frightened  to  kick  in  the  harness  by  chance 
causes.  The  rein  is  caught  under  the  tail  by  chance, 
which  excites  fear  and  kicking.  The  tug  touches  the 
quarters  or  the  whifHetree,  or  cross-piece,  from  some  cause, 
usually  the  breaking  of  the  harness,  or  some  other  disar« 
61 


KICKING    IN    HARNESS.  65 

rangement,  and  a  naturally  gentle  driving  colt  is  taken  una- 
wares, the  result  of  which  is,  he  is  frightened,  and  kicks. 
The  heels  coming  in  contact  with  the  shafts  or  whiffletree 
increases  this  fear :  the  result  of  it  all  is,  the  horse  is  ex- 
citable and  dangerous  in  that  position,  possibly  so  con- 
firmed in  kicking  as  to  make  him  entirely  unsafe  after- 
wards in  harness. 

I  wish  to  call  your  special  attention  to  these  facts  and 
from  them  shape  your  plans  of  treatment.  You  notice,  in 
the  first  place,  that  I  base  my  success  on  the  breaking  and 
driving  of  colts  so  successfully  to  my  getting  at  the  very 
root  of  this  trouble  at  the  commencement ;  that  my  very 
first  step  with  the  colt  is  to  overcome  all  this  possible 
fear  of  being  touched,  or  of  any  tiling  striking  or  coming 
against  the  quarters.  If  a  colt  has  learned  to  kick  in 
harness,  I  aim  to  overcome  the  fear  and  inclination  of 
the  horse  to  kick,  by  a  counteracting  impression  upon  the 
mind,  and  the  whole  difficulty  becomes  simple  and  easy  to 
control.  If  a  horse  is  confirmed  in  the  habit,  as  before,  I 
aim,  as  the  true  condition  of  my  success,  to  remove  the 
cause  by  counteracting  the  habit  as  strongly  as  I  can,  the 
whole  point  being,  after  the  horse  is  once  checked  and 
the  habit  is  under  control,  that  every  step  is  made  secure, 
in  preventing  a  repetition  of  it,  until  the  horse  will  not, 
and,  even  under  great  aggravation,  cannot  be  excited  to 
kick.  Now  the  intensity  of  the  habit  or  not,  and  the 
temperament  of  the  horse,  must  determine  the  treatment, 
and  how  much  to  do.  It  is  certain  any  thing  short  of 
being  thorough  is  liable  to  result  in  failure  ;  hence,  if  you 
cannot  by  simple  means  check  and  overcome  the  habit, 
to  be  safe,  then  go  back  to  indirect  means,  holding  and 
forcing  obedience.  The  colder  or  more  sulky  the  nature, 
in  some  cases,  the  more  your  success  must  depend  upon 
the  reacting  sensibility  of  the  nervous  system. 

In  breaking  the  colt,  all  that  is  necessary  to  do  is  to 
overcome  the  impression  of  fear,  and  all  inclination  to 
kick  is  at  once  removed.  In  colts  of  an  ordinary  good 
character  we  can  do  this  easily  by  the  control  of  the 
double  draw-hitch  and  touching  a  pole  against  the  quar- 
ters. If  wild,  strong  and  bad,  this  would  not  be  sufficient. 
The  second  course  of  subjection  will  enable  easy  control, 


66  KICKING   IN    HARNESS. 

with  rare  exceptions,  in -ten  to  fifteen  minutes ;  while  colts 
that  do  not  yield  to  this  must  be  subjected  to  passive 
treatment  and  the  bit,  which,  if  advisable,  may  be  sup- 
plemented with  the  foot-strap,  over  draw-check,  power- 
reins  or  kicking-straps.  We  will  presume  the  horse  is  an 
ordinary  six  or  eight  year  old  colt ;  is  a  nervous,  excitable 
kicker ;  is  all  right ;  but  is  afraid  of  the  noise  of  the 
wagon,  especially  so  if  any  thing  touches  him.  First, 
take  him  out  in  the  yard ;  and  if  you  are  a  handy  fellow, 
and  the  horse  will  bear  it,  try  the  first  method  of  subjec- 
tion. Do  not  expect  you  can  succeed  by  it,  but  it  is  a 
strong  help,  and  makes  the  next  more  impressive  ;  throw 
and  roll  him  a  dozen  times  ;  be  careful  in  doing  this  to  be 
on  a  well-sodded  piece  of  ground.  An  ordinary  horse 
would  now  yield  to  the  bit  readily :  however,  do  not  be 
over-sanguine ;  your  aim  is  to  be  sure.  Immediately  fol- 
low with  the  second  course,  and  do  not  be  at  all  timid. 
Make  the  lesson  thorough.  In  the  meantime,  as  for  the 
colt  described  in  a  previous  chapter,  pole  the  quarters  until 
there  is  no  fear  or  resistance  to  being  touched  anywhere 
between  or  around  the  legs,  or  under  the  tail.  Now  put 
on  the  harness,  and  in  nine  cases  out  of  ten  you  can 
carry  out  your  control  easily  with  the  breaking-bit.  Make 
the  horse  feel  the  full  extent  of  your  power  upon  the 
mouth,  which  will  disconcert  him  greatly.  Now  pole  him 
as  before.  A  good  way  is  to  tie  the  hair  of  the  tail  into 
a  knot,  and  run  the  pole  through  the  hair  above  it,  so  that 
the  pole  will  strike  the  quarters  where  the  whiffletree  or 
cross-piece  does.  Let  the  pole  be  pressed  against  the 
quarters,  as  if  by  chance,  repeating  until  there  is  no  fear 
of  it.  You  should  have  an  assistant  to  do  this,  while  you 
hold  the  reins.  Now  make  the  horse  move  at  the  same 
time  the  pole  is  allowed  to  strike  the  quarters,  until  there 
is  no  fear  of  it  and  it  is  borne  safely. 

If  you  are  a  farmer,  and  you  wish  to  work  sure,  if  the 
horse  is  at  all  doubtful,  do  not  chance  driving  before  a 
wagon  with  poor,  brittle  shafts,  or  to  a  good  carriage; 
because  there  is  a  possible  danger  of  the  horse  kicking 
when  attached  to  it,  which  would  be  likely  to  damage  or 
break  it,  causing  serious  loss.  Better  go  sure  at  a  little 
extra  trouble.  Fix  up  a  pole-rig,  as  before  described,  to 


KICKING   IN    HARNESS. 


67 


the    pont 
cross-piece 


drive  the  green  colt  in.  One  little  point  about  the  pole- 
rig.  The  poles  will  not  be  likely  to  go  through  the  tugs  ; 
and,  if  they  would,  they  would  be  too  low.  Attach  a  piece 
of  rope,  or  a  strap,  to  the 
saddle,  tying  to  the  tur- 
rets, improvising  loops 
at  the  ends  for  the  poles 
to  run  through,  but  short 
enough  so  that  the  cross- 
piece  will  come  upon  the 
quarters  at 
where  the 

of  the  shaft  comes.  The 
whole  thing  is  a  tempo- 
rary affair  :  you  can  tie 

the  tugs  with  a  piece  of  A  good  sketch  of  a  nervous,  irritable  kicker. 
cord  to  the  cross-piece. 

You  are  now  ready  to  make  the  step  of  driving  in  shafts, 
which  is,  as  before  explained,  usually  a  point  of  risk  with  or- 
dinary shafts.  If  the  horse  should  kick,  he  cannot  do  any 
damage.  Usually  the  horse  will  drive  nicely.  You  are 
now  to  test  your  subject  thoroughly,  backing  him  against 
the  cross-piece,  turning  right  or  left,  having  the  poles 
come  heavily  against  the  legs,  &c.  Drive  until  cool,  and 
proved  to  be  thoroughly  safe.  If  not,  repeat  the  les- 
son. We  will  suppose  the  kicker  to  be  a  strong,  reckless 
fighter,  of  the  worst  kind.  There  are  two  classes  :  the 

horse  of  great  activity  and 
endurance;  and  the  strong, 
tough,  hardy,  but  cool 
fighter.  If  you  have  a 
black,  dull  iron-gray  or 
sorrel,  and  sometimes  a 
bay  with  large  eyes,  with 
much  white,  the  lids  thick, 
and  long  from  eyes  to  ears, 
and  ears  rather  long,  a 
deep  chest,  a  strong,  bony, 
muscular  animal,  you  have  a  kicker  of  the  worst  kind.  It  is 
hazardous  for  you  to  get  him  very  warm  or  sweaty,  as  then 
he  will  become  really  desperate,  while  his  determination 


A  good  sketch  of  a  bad  fighter. 


68  KICKING    IN    HARNESS. 

and  courage  are  so  great  that  it  is  difficult  to  make  a  point 
upon  him  before  producing  this  condition.  Yet,  some- 
times, horses  that  are  of  a  very  bad  character  will  work  in 
very  easily,  remaining  frequently,  after  one  lesson,  perfectly 
gentle.  The  point  is  to  work  sure  and  quick.  The  course 
I  now  pursue  is  to  feel  carefully  to  see  if  I  can  apply  pas- 
sive treatment  safely :  if  I  can,  I  apply  it  quickly,  with 
about  all  the  power  I  can.  If  you  can  make  this  point 
without  trouble,  the  rest  is  easy.  If  the  horse  kicks  hard 
when  the  quarters  or  legs  are  touched  with  a  pole,  it  .is 
nothing :  he  will  soon  quit  that,  and  stand  quietly  to  be 
poled  and  touched  as  you  please.  The  best  way  is  now 
to  bring  up  your  pole-rig  (if  you  have  one,  and,  if  you  have 
not,  make  one),  so  that  the  cross-piece  will  come  against 
the  quarters,  and  keep  doing  so  until  you  see  no  cringing 
or  indication  of  kicking ;  now  gradually  remove  your  pres- 
sure as  you  can  safely,  and,  at  the  last,  turn  the  cord 
quickly  into  the  double  hitch,  and  hold  your  point  with  it. 
Follow  up  as  before,  touching  the  cross-piece  against  the 
quarters,  and  as  the  horse  gives  up  let  up  oh  him,  at  the 
same  time  encouraging  by  kind  treatment.  Have  a  little 
oats,  apples,  sugar,  and  salt,  or  something  else  of  which 
the  horse  is  fond,  and  give  him  a  little  as  he  does  well. 
Now  put  on  the  harness,  and  carry  control  to  the  mouth 
direct  with  the  breaking-bit.  First  drive  around  with  the 
harness  until  you  feel  that  you  have  the  horse  well  in 
hand.  Now  attach  to  the  poles,  driving  and  testing  hard, 
in  all  cases  making  the  horse  submit  perfectly  to  the  con- 
trol of  the  lines,  though  the  shafts  or  poles  strike  the  heels. 
No  matter  how  well  the  horse  works,  try  him  carefully 
next  day,  and  try  him  thoroughly,  before  you  take  the 
chance  of  putting  him  before  a  buggy.  As  a  general  rule, 
one  or  two  sharp  lessons  will  make  a  horse  work  safely. 
At  least  half  the  kickers  taken  in  hand  to  illustrate  princi- 
ples before  the  class  remain  thoroughly  broken  of  this 
habit,  and  can  be  driven  afterwards  safely.  But  the  way 
a  horse  works  in  and  yields  to  control  must  determine 
how  much  to  do.  When  I  have  a  good  place,  I  some- 
times, if  I  find  the  subject  a  bad  one,  subject  the  case, 
first,  to  first  and  second  methods,  because  easily  applied, 
and  make  a  powerful  impression :  I  now,  if  I  think  advisa- 


LARGE  CRUPPER.  69 

ble,  follow  up  with  passive  treatment.  The  second  or 
cold,  sulky  class  must  be  treated  with  the  third  method,  or 
passive  treatment.  This  class  of  kickers,  though  appear- 
ing to  be  very  bad,  usually  yield  easily  to  this  treatment. 
If  you  subject  them  to  the  first  and  second  methods  you 
will  be  likely  to  fail,  for  you  cannot  always  make  sufficient 
impression  upon  the  nervous  system  of  such  to  control 
and  hold  them  under  subjection  as  you  desire.  When 
they  warm  up  they  become  sulky  and  reckless.  But  when 
this  excitement  passes  off,  and  the  nervous  system  becomes 
cool,  this  temperament  will  invariably  work  in  safety, 
making  a  very  gentle,  reliable  horse.  I  could  refer  to  a 
large  number  of  remarkable  cases  proving  this  rule.  The 
Hettrick  horse'  of  New  York,  the  Hillman  horse  of  Port- 
land, with  many  noted  horses,  prove  this.  I  often  excite 
suspicion  by  stating  that  a  horse  that  had  shown  a  very 
sulky,  bad  character,  after  giving  up,  would  be  found  next 
day,  when  cool,  to  be  perfectly  gentle. 

There  are  many  horses  that  will  drive  all  right  until 
irritated  by  some  chance  cause.  One  horse  is  all  right, 
but  will  kick  if  the  REIN  is  CAUGHT  UNDER  THE  TAIL; 
while  another  is  all  right  if  his  head  is  under  good  con- 
trol. If  the  rein  irritates,  and  is  the  only  cause  of  annoy- 
ance, you  can  easily  overcome  the  whole  difficulty  as 
follows :  — 

IiABGE  CBTJPPEB. 

Take  the  crupper,  and  wind  the  part  that  comes  under 
the  tail  with  a  strip  of  flannel 
until  it  is  about  two  inches 
in  diameter.  If  the  tail  is 
stiff  and  likely  to  chafe,  cover 
this  flannel  with  a  piece  of 
chamois-skin.  The  proper 
course  is  to  put  on  the  crup- 
per, and  leave  it  on  night  and 
day  for  a  week,  and,  when 
driving,  for  some  time  after- 
wards. This  crupper  is  so  large,  that  the  line  coming 
below  it  cannot  be  felt  or  held  ;  while  leaving  it  on  a  few 
days  and  nights  wears  out  the  undue  sensibility  of  the 
part.  If  the  horse  is  nervous  and  sensitive,  and  needs  to 


70 


THE   OVERDRAW   CHECK. 


be  simply  held  in  check,  either  of  the  following  methods 
can  be  used. 

THE  OVERDBAW  CHECK 

will  now  work  well.  But  care  must  be  taken  to  apply  it 
rightly,  or  there  will  be  cause  for  disappointment  in  its  use. 
The  object  is  now  to  simply  disable  the  horse  from  his 
purpose  at  the  least  attempt  to  kick,  which  we  can  easily 
do,  especially  while  in  single  harness.  The  best  way  to 
do  this  is  as  follows  :  — 

Get  a  small  steel  bit,  and   hang  it  loosely  above   the 
driving-bit  in  the  bridle.     Put  the   bridle   on   the   head : 


Overdraw  check  for  kickers. 

now  provide  yourself  with  a  fine,  strong  piece  of  hemp  or 
cotton  cord,  about  three-eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter, 
and  sixteen  feet  in  length.  Put  the  centre  of  this  cord 
back  of  the  ears,  run  the  ends  back  through  the  rings  of 
the  small  bit  and  through  the  gag-runners,  which  should 
be  close  up  to  the  ears.  (See  cut.)  Pass  them  now 
through  the  turrets  and  back  through  a  ring,  which  must 
be  attached  as  far  back  upon  the  crupper  as  possible,  and 
attach  the  ends  to  the  shafts  on  each  side  of  the  hips.  At 
first  this  check  should  be  drawn  short,  to  bring  the  head 
as  high  as  the  horse  can  bear.  The  head  is  now  not  only 
high,  but  the  least  effort  to  kick  will  draw  the  check 


THE   OVERDRAW   CHECK.  71 

tighter,  and  consequently  pull  the  head  up  in  proportion, 
thereby  preventing  the  horse  from  doing  any  mischief. 
As  there  is  manifested  less  disposition  to  kick,  give  more 
freedom  to  the  head.  When  the  animal  proves  safe, 
change,  and  use  the  common  check-rein,  at  first  rather 
short.  A  nicely  rounded  strap  may  be  used,  instead  of 
the  cord.  It  requires  very  careful  and  thorough  treat- 
ment to  reform  a  slow,  reckless  kicker,  especially  if  the 
nervous  system  is  much  weakened  in  this  direction.  Or, 
use  the  check-purchase  upon  the  reins  direct,  by  either 
letting  the  cords  extend  to  the  wagon,  instead  of  being 


Simple  Overdraw  Check,  to  prevent  turning  round,  or  to  kick  if  touched 
with  reins. 

passed  over  the  hips  and  tied  to  the  shafts  ;  or  attach  this 
check  by  buckles  to  each  of  the  reins,  forward  of  the  sad- 
dle. By  this  arrangement,  when  you  pull  heavily,  you 
pull  on  this  check  in  the  same  proportion  that  you  do 
upon  the  jaw.  The  consequence  is,  a  powerful  lever  pur- 
chase on  the  head,  up  and  back.  You  can  regulate  your 
control  by  buckling  this  overdraw  part  longer  or  shorter 
to  the  reins;  or  you  can  have  your  overdraw  ordinarily 
long,  and  have  two  strong  pieces  of  elastic  connecting  the 
reins  with  the  bit,  so  that  when  you  pull  hard  the  elastics 
would  give  enough  to  bring  full  purchase  on  the  overdraw. 
The  following  very  simple  form  of  overdraw  will  be 


72 


THE   OVERDRAW   CHECK. 


found  very  valuable,  because  so  simple  and  easily  made. 
If  you  have  a  good  piece  of  cord,  such  as  I  use,  or  any 
small  but  strong  cord,  you  can  make  a  rig  in  a  few  min- 
utes, that  enables  you  to  drive  a  pretty  bad  horse  with 
entire  ease.  First,  take  a  cord  eighteen  to  twenty  feet  in 
length.  Put  the  centre  on  top  of  the  head  under  the 
bridle,  about  ten  or  twelve  inches  from  this  centre ; 
double  and  knot  about  two  inches  from  this  centre,  and 
we  have  now  two  check  or  gag  runners  which  will  come 
up  near  the  ears.  Resting  the  centre  of  the  cord  on  top 
of  the  head,  pass  each  end  down  and  through  the  mouth, 
then  up  and  •  through  the  loops  before  named,  then  back 


A  cheap,  simple  means  of  driving  a  runaway  kicker. 

through  the  turrets  to  the  wagon,  same  as  reins.  The 
higher  the  loops  for  gag-runners,  the  more  purchase  up 
and  back.  Any  way  you  get  great  power  upon  the 
mouth  and  head ;  or,  you  can,  instead  of  crossing  the 
cords  through  the  mouth,  run  them  through  the  rings  of 
the  bit,  and  bring  back  up  and  through  the  loop  on  same 
side. 

This  gives  all  the  power  and  control  of  the  best  flat  reins, 
without  the  expense.  You  can  use  a  bit  if  you  wish,  bypass- 
ing cord  through  the  ring  on  each  side  and  back  again  to 
the  gag-runner.  Let  the  bridle  be  made  to  fit  the  head 
closely.  Between  the  ears,  a  little  inside  of  each,  have  a 
little  loop,  sewed  on  large  enough  to  pass  through  two 


KICKING-STRAPS. 


73 


small  straps.  Now  attach  to  ordinary  light  check-straps  a 
small  steel  bit,  which  is  to  be 
independent  of  the  driving- 
bit  ;  pass  them  through  the 
loops  above  described,  on  top 
of  the  bridle  and  back  to  the 
check-hook  in  the  saddle ; 
make  a  little  tight,  and  you 
have  a  powerful  check,  which 
will  keep  an  ordinary  sen- 
sitive horse  helpless,  and  en- 
able driving  many  kickers 
with  entire  safety.  During 
my  early  career  I  used  the 
ordinary 

KICKING  STKAPS 


Showing  how  to  make  a  cheap  rig, 
with  a  small  rope,  to  drive  a 
runaway  kicker. 


with  much  success.  At  this 
time  they  were  the  principal 
means  of  reliance  for  break- 
ing kickers.  I  include  here 
a  cut  of  them. 

Have  made  four  straps,  like  common  names  straps  ;  two 
long  enough  to  buckle  around  the  hind-legs  above  the 
gambrels,  and  two  a  little  shorter,  so  as  to  be  in  propor- 
tion, to  buckle  around  just  below  the  gambrel.  The 
straps  should  be  an  inch  and  a  quarter  wide,  good  thick 

leather,  and  the  buckles 
should  be  heavy.  Now 
have  made  two  D's  just 
twice  as  long  as  the  straps 
are  wide.  This  D  should 
have  the  straight  part  a 
little  rounding,  and  the 
corners  not  quite  to  a 
sharp  point.  Put  a  long 
and  a  short  strap  on  each 
D,  and  buckle  them 
Thekic°kerkicking"straps  to  break  a  bad  around  the  hind-legs  of 

the  horse  ;  the  long  strap 
above   and   the  short  one  below   the   gambrel,  bringing 


74  THE   FOOT-STRAP. 

the  D  in  front  of  the  leg.    These  we  designate  KICKING- 

STRAPS. 

Put  a  strong,  well-fitting  rope  halter  on  the  head,  tie  a 
strong  two-inch  ring  on  the  end  of  the  hitching  part, 
which  should  be  of  a  length  to  extend  between  the  fore- 
legs, over  and  just  back  of  the  belly-band.  Then  take  a 
piece  of  strong  manila  rope,  long  enough  to  extend  from 
the  ring  on  the  end  of  the  halter  back  to  each  hind-leg. 
Pass  the  end  of  this  through  the  ring  to  the  centre,  and 
tie  each  end  carefully  into  the  D's  on  the  straps,  the 
whole  so  arranged  in  length  that  the  horse  can  travel 
easily  and  naturally.  Now,  as  soon  as  the  horse  kicks, 

the  most  severe  punish- 
ment must  result  upon 
the  nose.  Sometimes,  in- 
stead of  being  around  the 
gambrels  (as  in  cut),  I  put 
them  above  the  ankle  at 
.first,  and  when  the  horse 
gets  afraid  to  kick  and 
will  drive  easier,  attach 
to  the  legs  higher  up. 
Attach  one  end  of  a 
strap  or  rope  around  the 
fore-leg  below  the  fetlock  ; 
pass  the  other  end  back 
over  the  belly-band  of  the  harness  and  back  to  the  seat, 
where  it  can  be  held  as  a  rein  in  the  hand. 

THE  FOOT-STBAP. 

This  is  a  valuable  means  of  control :  it  enables  carry- 
ing out  in  the  easiest  and  most  practical  manner,  and  with 
perfect  safety,  what  Rarey  tried  to  do  by  tying  up  the  fore- 
leg, which  deprived  the  horse  of  ability  to  travel ;  and  a 
really  bad  kicker  will  balance  on  one  leg  when  so  tied, 
and  kick,  whereas  by  pulling  the  leg  from  under  him  on 
the  instant  there  is  shown  a  purpose  to  kick,  the  horse  is 
thrown  off  his  balance,  disabled,  and  disconcerted,  so  that 
he  can  neither  kick  nor  run ;  and  this  can  be  done  on  the 
very  instant  of  resistance,  since  the  leg  can  be  controlled 
at  will  from  the  seat.  It  is  especially  valuable  on  a  doubt- 


THE   FOOT-STRAP.  75 

ful,  reckless,  runaway  colt.  Attach  another  such  strap  to 
the  other  foot,  and  you  have  the  most  powerful  horse 
helpless.  I  rarely  use  the  foot-strap  or  overdraw  checks 
now,  as  they  are  only  palliative  compared  to  the  principle 
of  bringing  the  horse  under  direct  control  by  the  proper 
course  of  subjection,  and  carrying  out  that  control  by  the 
bit.  It  is  only  when  the  horse  has  no  mouth,  and  is  just 
cunning  and  treacherous  enough  to  be  watching  for  ad- 
vantage and  then  liable  to  kick,  that  I  would  use  a  check 
or  overdraw.  The  foot-strap  may  be  found  frequently  of 
decided  advantage  in  driving  a  colt  the  first  time  to  a 
wagon  or  carriage,  when  you  desire  -safety  in  guarding 
against  a  possible  chance  of  resisting  your  control.  I  do 
all  this  now  by  getting  the  horse  under  quick  and  sure 
control ;  and  when  I  hitch  up  a  horse  I  have  him  safe. 

The  question  is  asked,  How  long  will  the  horse  stay 
broke,  and  what  would  you  do  to  break  a  horse  of  kick- 
ing ?  Here  you  give  us  quite  a  variety  of  treatment.  In 
the  first  place,  if  you  have  a  bad  horse  to  break,  calculate 
to  take  a  half-day  at  least  for  the  job.  Then  go  to  work 
carefully  and  thoroughly ;  believe  you  are  doing  well  to 
succeed  in  the  time  named,  and  you  will  be  encouraged 
and  gratified  when  you  find  your  success  complete  in  an 
hour  or  two.  If  a  horse  is  a  wildish,  fresh,  courageous 
kicker,  and  the  habit  has  been  excited  by  fear,  or  natural 
meanness  of  disposition,  then  by  all  means  the  regular 
course  of  subjection  is  the  surest,  easiest,  and  best,  since 
it  overcomes  directly  the  cause  of  the  whole  trouble  ;  when 
by  driving  and  using  the  horse  kindly,  observing  'to  test 
him  carefully  the  next  day,  and  if  found  at  all  sensitive, 
or  not  fully  up  to  the  standard  of  being  entirely  gentle, 
not  attempting  to  jump  or  resist  in  any  way  when  the 
cross-piece  comes  against  the  quarters,  &c ,  make  that 
point  by  all  means  before  you  go  farther  or  attempt  more. 
The  point  is  to  fix  the  character  so  that  it  is  safe  ;  and  if 
the  first  lesson  does  not  do  this,  do  no  more  until  you  can. 
There  is  no  need  at  all  to  make  a  failure  :  it  is  so  easy  to 
dp,  and  only  requires  being  careful  and  thorough  to  suc- 
ceed, that  there  can  be  no  excuse  for  the  want  of  perfect 
success.  If  the  horse  is  a  savage  kicker,  one  that 
kicks  because  he  has  learned  to  do  it,  and  is  one  of 


76  THE   FOOT-STRAP. 

courage  and  bottom,  you  have  frequently  a  horse  that  re- 
quires very  careful,  thorough  treatment.  If  of  a  nervous- 
sanguine  temperament,  something  like  No.  78  or  79  on 
pages  74-75,  take  a  thorough  course :  subject  rapidly  to  first, 
second,  and  third  methods  ;  either  perhaps  would  do  ;  the 
third,  or  passive  treatment  would,  in  most  cases,  without 
trouble,  but  the  point  is  to  make  as  profound  an  impres- 
sion and  as  sure  one  as  you  can  without  giving  any  chance 
for  pull-backs.  Stop  all  inclination  to  kick  before  you 
attempt  to  harness  and  drive.  Usually  there  will  be  a 
struggle  to  fight  you  back  when  you  attempt  this,  but  you 
must  be  ready  to  force  this  point  at  all  hazards,  if  neces- 
sary going  back  again  to  give  .your  subjective  course  ;  but 
remember  you  cannot  very  well  repeat  passive  treatment,  as 
the  mouth  will  be  usually  so  sore  as  not  to  admit  of  it.  Do 
all  you  can  with  the  first  and  second.  If,  in  driving,  the 
horse  sulks,  and  will  not  go  ahead  against  the  bit,  which  is 
frequently  the  case,  put  on  the  double  draw-hitch,  and  fol- 
low up  with  single  hitch  ahead,  as  for  a  double  balker, 
until  you  make  the  point  easily.  You  may  now  in  some 
cases  use  the  foot-strap,  though  I  do  not  find  it  necessary, 
holding  your  point  of  forcing  to  yield  to  the  shafts  strik- 
ing the  quarters  \  making  this  point,  hold  it  at  all  hazards. 
When  the  horse  will  get  cool,  he  will  work  decidedly 
better ;  work  carefully ;  make  all  you  can  by  kindness. 
The  moment  a  horse  yields  to  me,  I  treat  him  with  the 
greatest  kindness,  rewarding  him  with  presents  of  some- 
thing of  which  he  is  fond.  If  the  tail  is  the  sensitive 
part,  then  put  a  large  crupper  under  it,  as  given  in  another 
part  of  this  chapter.  If  a  horse  that  drives  all  right,  but 
at  times  is  liable  to  kick,  most  cases  will  submit  easily  to 
either  form  of  overdraw-check.  Do  not,  if  you  can  pos- 
sibly avoid  it,  handle  horses  in  the  presence  of  specta- 
tors :  get  them  out  of  the  way  at  all  hazards.  A  sensi- 
tive woman  should  on  no  account  be  anywhere  near  you  : 
nothing  will  touch  their  feelings  so  keenly  as  seeming 
abuse  to  a  horse.  Do  not  let  any  one  see  you,  if  in  your 
power  to  prevent  it,  until  your  success  is  sure.  Treat  the 
horse  now  with  great  kindness ;  clean  and  feed  him,  but 
keep  to  work,  testing  and  holding  your  point  until  cool ; 
then  your  .success  will  be  surprising  and  most  gratifying 


KICKING   WHILE    HARNESSING.  77 

to  all.  Another  point  I  would  urge,  before  closing  this 
chapter :  make  up  your  mind,  at  all  hazards,  that  you  will 
not  get  mad  yourself.  The  moment  you  give  way  to  this 
sort  of  feeling,  you  are  throwing  away  your  strongest  and 
best  hold  ;  and  besides,  as  I  have  shown  you,  it  is  the 
best  point  of  your  success  to  keep  positive  control  of 
yourself. 

KICKING  WHILE  HABNESSING. 

Put  on  the  war-bridle  (small  loop),  and  work  up  with  it 
sharply  right  and  left  a  few  times,  then  pull  down  tight, 
and  tie  into  a  half  hitch.  While  holding  the  cord  in  the 
left  hand,  step  back,  and  pass  the  hand  from  the  shoulders 
to  the  hind  parts  gently.  If  this  is  borne,  take  the  har- 
ness in  the  right  hand,  and  work  it  back  gently  over  the 
back.  As  this  is  borne,  untie  the  cord,  and  tie  down,  so 
as  td  give  the  mouth  a  little  more  freedom.  Now  go  back, 
and  handle  as  before,  being  careful  to  be  gentle  :  if  there 
is  resistance,  punish  sharply,  tie  down  short  again,  and 
put  the  harness  on.  When  there  is  submission,  untie, 
then  work  back  as  before :  at  the  least  indication  of  re- 
sistance, tremble  on  the  cord  until  the  horse  will  bear  the 
harness,  while  free  from  restraint. 

KICKING  WEXLE   GROOMING. 

Some  horses  are  so  thin-skinned,  that  they  can  scarce- 
ly bear  a  currycomb  on  the  flanks  or  legs,  and  when 
excited  by  rough  treatment  and  too  severe  use  of  the  curry- 
comb, are  easily  made  vicious  to  handle  or  groom.  Put 
on  the  war-bridle,  and  after  working  up  with  it,  hold 
tightly,  and  with  the  left  hand  use  the  currycomb  on  the 
back,  gradually  working  to  the  sensitive  part :  as  there  is 
submission,  give  a  little  more  freedom  to  the  mouth,  and 
work  back  lightly.  If  the  horse  seems  unable  to  bear  the 
currycomb,  use  the  brush  instead,  and  that,  if  necessary, 
lightly.  Work  lightly  and  indirectly  to  the  sensitive  part, 
at  the  same  time  speaking  gently.  It  is  almost  impossible 
to  overcome  this  habit,  if  there  is  not  gentleness  and  kind 
treatment. 

The  currycomb  is  used  too  much  by  most  grooms.  A 
sharp-toothed,  brass  currycomb  must  not  be  used  QK  a  thin- 


78  KICKING   WHILE   SHOEING. 

skinned  horse  :  use  a  brush.  I  should  want  a  horse  to 
kick  a  man  out  of  the  stall,  who  would  use  a  currycomb 
with  needless  severity,  or  be  otherwise  needlessly  harsh. 

KICKING  WHILE   SHOEING. 

If  at  the  start  the  colt  were  subjected  to  the  simple 
course  of  subjection,  and  the  feet  handled  and  taken  up 
gently,  there  would  be  no  trouble  whatever.  Nothing 
is  done  until  the  colt  is  taken  to  the  shop  to  be  shod, 
when,  possibly  excited  by  fear,  and  the  rude  efforts  of 
the  smith  to  shoe  him,  he  will  learn  to  kick  and  fight  with 
energy.  The  moment  you  take  a  horse's  foot,  and  he 
learns  he  can  kick  you  away,  it  is  not  safe  for  you  to  try 
to  control  him  by  main  strength ;  for  if  a  strong,  coura- 
geous horse,  he  is  not  only  liable  to  injure  you,  but  defy 
your  efforts.  We  once  in  a  while  get  horses  of  this  char- 
acter that  are  wholly  unmanageable  ;  frequently  old  horses 
that  are  so  bad  they  never  have  been  shod. 

Any  ordinary  case  will  yield  readily  to  the  war-bridle. 
If  this  will  not  do,  try  the  double  hitch  ;  but  few  will  resist 
this  ;  and  it  will  do  the  work  so  quickly  and  safely,  that, 
so  far  as  it  goes,  it  is  unrivalled.  If  this  fails,  then  subject 
to  passive  treatment.  In  the  mean  time,  attach  a  rope  or 
strap  around  the  hind  leg,  and  with  it,  pull  the  leg  back 
and  keep  pulling  it,  so  long  as  the  horse  will  kick  and  re- 
sist. When  the  foot  is  given  back  freely,  then  pull  it 
forward  until  submissive.  Take  it  now  with  the  hand. 
As  there  is  submission,  let  up.  At  the  last,  use  the  dou- 
ble hitch  or  war-bridle,  which  will  give  you  all  the  control 
you  need.  Each  foot  must  be  treated  alike.  We  control 
the  worst  horses  before  the  class,  by  this  treatment,  in 
from  five  to  twenty  minutes.  Any  ordinary  colt  or  horse 
will  stand  to  be  shod  gently  by  blindfolding,  or  tying  a 
blanket  over  the  head,  so  that  the  horse  cannot  see. 

KICKING  IN  STALL. 

This  is  one  of  those  habits  that  require  care  and  judg- 
ment to  guard  against  danger.  Let  the  horse  know,  by 
some  signal  or  command,  of  your  presence  and  intention  to 
approach.  Many  horses  of  the  gentlest  character  would 
kick  if  approached  suddenly  and  unexpectedly ;  and  again, 


KICKING   IN   STALL.  79 

many  horses  that  are  gentle,  but  a  little  peevish,  will  not 
bear  being  approached  without  a  little  care  in  attracting 
attention.  The  motion  of  the  ears  and  lips,  and  expres- 
sion of  the  eye,  will  always  notify  of  danger.  And  here 
let  me  warn  the  reader,  that,  however  careful  he  may  be 
in  not  going  too  near  the  horse,  there  must  not  be  a 
semblance  of  fear  shown  in  language  or  actions.  The 
command  must  be  low  and  positive,  indicating  power.  If 
the  horse  will  not  move  round  and  seem  to  be  distracted 
from  a  positive  intention,  stand  still,  or  walk  off,  carelessly 
whistling,  in  such  a  way  that  the  horse  does  not  see  that 
you  feel  defeated. 

If  you  have  his  attention,  repeat  the  words  "  get  around, 
or  over,"  with  a  positiveness  that  must  be  obeyed,  looking 
at  the  eye  as  if  you  could  and  would  overcome  all  opposi- 
tion. When  you  see  the  horse  shrink  from  your  gaze,  glide 
up  to  the  shoulder,  before  the  mind  can  be  made  to  act, 
and  the  next  instant  let  the  left  hand  be  passed  along  the 
neck  and  down  the  head  to  the  nose-piece  of  the  halter, 
and  you  are  safe,  as  the  horse  cannot  now  kick,  strike,  or 
bite  you.  I  have  repeatedly  got  to  the  shoulder  of  horses 
in  this  way,  that  would  kick  and  strike  the  stall  just  after 
I  passed,  yet  not  be  struck  :  it  is  a  feat,  however,  that 
must  not  be  attempted  unless  necessary.  In  going  out, 
the  rule  is  the  same.  Pull  the  head  towards  you,  looking 
at  the  eye  sternly  ;  this  will  throw  the  quarters  from  you, 
and  at  the  instant  you  let  go,  glide  out,  and  you  are  safe. 

If  the  horse  is  vicious  and  dangerous,  he  should  be 
subjected  to  the  regular  treatment  until  there  will  be  no 
trouble ;  or,  put  on  the  war-bridle.  Lead  the  animal  into 
the  stall,  then  step  back  opposite  the  hips  and  say,  "  Get 
around."  If  there  is  not  prompt  obedience,  give  a  sharp 
jerk,  which  will  throw  the  hind  part  from  you.  Repeat 
this,  and  in  a  short  time  the  horse  will  learn  to  step  around 
promptly  when  commanded,  and  allow  being  approached. 
If  the  horse  is  persistent,  leave  the  cord  on,  the  small 
loop  being  left  larger  and  passed  through  the  rings  of  the 
halter.  As  you  now  step  out,  retain  the  cord  in  the  hand 
and  hang  or  tie  the  end  to  a  nail  on  the  post,  leaving 
sufficient  length  to  permit  the  horse  entire  freedom  to  the 
halter.  Now,  when  you  desire  to  go  into  the  stall,  if  the 


80  KICKING   IN   STALL. 

horse  does  not  step  around  when  commanded,  untie  or 
unhook  the  end  of  the  cord,  and  give  a  jerk  upon  it,  which 
will  bring  the  animal  to  his  senses.  Leaving  this  on  a  few 
days,  caressing  and  giving  presents  of  sugar,  apples,  or 
any  thing  of  which  the  horse  is  fond,  will  soon  not  only 
break  up  the  confidence,  but  so  enlist  the  attention  that 
your  approach  will  be  looked  for,  and  invited,  by  stepping 
around,  and  endeavoring  to  reach  toward  you  for  the 
present. 

I  would  here  observe  that  there  are  very  many  men  who 
are  not  fit  to  have  any  thing  to  do  with  a  sensitive,  well- 
bred  horse.  They  are  either  so  coarse  and  harsh  as  to 
excite  resentment  and  hate,  or  so  dull  and  ignorant  that 
they  can  not  or  will  not  see  that  they  must  both  conceal 
fear  and  avoid  danger.  They  will  not  do  either.  They 
abuse  and  show  so  much  fear  as  both  to  excite  and  en- 
courage resistance  ;  and,  without  the  genius  or  tact  to  cor- 
rect the  cause  of  mischief,  they  attribute  all  the  trouble  to 
the  natural  viciousness  of  the  animal. 

Sensitive  horses  should  not  be  teased  in  the  stall,  or 
while  cleaning,  by  pinching,  pricking,  or  whipping,  to 
"show  off,"  as  the  term  is.  Gentlemen  who  own  fine 
horses  should  be  very  particular  about  this ;  and  a  man 
who  would  in  any  way  persist  in  such  treatment  should 
be  kicked  out  of  the  stable. 


BALKING. 


THIS  habit  is  the  outgrowth  of  ignorance  and  bad  treat- 
ment. It  is  also,  when  attempted  to  be  done  by  the  ordinary 
system  of  rough,  exciting  force,  seemingly  one  of  the  most 
difficult  habits  to  break  up.  The  moment  you  go  to  whip- 
ping and  pounding  a  horse,  as  is  usually  done,  you  not  only 
irritate  to  greater  resistance,  but  blunt  the  sensibilities  to 
such  a  degree,  that  in  a  short  time  the  greatest  abuse  may  be 
inflicted  without  having  any  more  seeming  effect  than  to 
make  the  horse  more  stubborn.  When  a  horse  finds  you 
cannot  make  him  go,  he  will  balk  at  the  least  cause  01 
annoyance,  or  want  of  it.  While  in  harness  you  should  not, 
by  any  means,  commence  your  tactics  by  treatment  which 
forces  you  to  defeat,  and  makes  the  horse  worse. 

WHAT    KIND    TREATMENT    AND     A    LITTLE     PATIENT     MANAGE- 
MENT DID.  —  AN  INCIDENT  OF  EARLY   EXPERIENCE. 

When  but  a  little  more  than  a  boy,  I  acquired  a  great 
passion  for  trading  horses,  frequently  trading  five  or  six 
times  a  week.  In  this  way  I  got  on  my  hands  from  a  sharp 
horse-jockey,  a  pony  mare,  nine  years  old,  that  was  known 
as  the  most  stubborn  and  reckless  balker  ever  known  in  the 
country.  She  had  been  through  the  hands  of  the  best  horse- 
men in  the  country,  but,  proving  wholly  unmanageable,  the 
owner  would  trade  her  off  as  quickly  as  possible.  When  I 
got  her,  the  man  who  traded  her  to  me,  laughed  and  said 
he  "guessed  I  had  something  this  time  that  would 
stick  me ;  that  if  I  could  drive  her  I  could  beat  any 
living  horseman ;  that  every  possible  means  had  been 
tried  to  break  her,  and  she  beat  them  all."  I  said  in  reply, 
that  I  did  not  anticipate  any  real  trouble  in  making  hei 
work  for  me.  I  looked  the  mare  over  carefully,  and  made 

81 


82  BALKING. 

up  my  mind  that  she  was  a  bad  one ;  still,  I  did  not  have 
the  most  remote  idea  that  I  could  not  make  her  work,  yet 
I  did  not  know  just  how  I  could  do  it.  I  have  one  quality 
of  nature,  and  it  is  about  all  that  I  could  ever  feel  nature  did 
for  me  —  it  is  that  of  great  perseverance.  Indeed,  whatever 
my  success,  it  is  all  the  simple  growth  of  great  perseverance. 
First,  I  improvised  a  cart  and  harness.  I  next  went  into  an 
orchard,  and  rilled  my  pockets  with  the  best  apples  I  could 
find.  I  now  pulled  the  cart,  leading  the  mare  into  a  by- 
road, took  part  of  the  apples  and  cut  them  into  small  pieces ; 
next  I  provided  myself  with  a  switch,  and,  with  harness  on, 
led  the  mare  to  the  top  of  the  hill ;  standing  at  her  shoulder, 
I  tapped  her  on  the  hip  with  the  switch  until  she  started,  at 
the  same  time  saying,  "  get  up  !  "  After  going  a  few  feet,  I 
called  out,  "  whoa  !  "  holding  by  the  rein  to  do  so.  Imme- 
diately I  gave  a  little  apple,  then  I  repeated  this  operation, 
but  gradually  going  a  little  farther  back  each  time,  but  care- 
fully rewarding,  for  each  movement  of  going  ahead,  with 
some  apple.  This  I  repeated  until  I  could  stand  behind  and 
she  would  do  the  same,  but  carefully  rewarding  her  obedi- 
ence. This  little  point  established,  I  now  led  her  back  to 
the  hill-top,  and  attached  her  to  the  cart.  Again,  I  com- 
menced as  before,  first  standing  at  the  shoulder,  and  going 
a  little  farther  back  and  carefully  rewarding  at  each  succes- 
sive step  of  obedience,  until  I  could,  as  before,  stand  behind 
and  make  the  start  and  stop  at  command,  but  always  care- 
fully rewarding,  but  not  giving  but  little  of  the  apple  at  a 
time.  I  soon  got  on  the  axletree,  and  repeated  as  before ; 
then  with  the  seat,  letting  her  go  each  time  a  little  farther, 
until  I  could  go  for  some  distance.  Gradually  I  repeated 
this  up  the  hill.  Next  day,  at  first,  I  worked  cautiously, 
until  I  got  her  attention,  and  from  the  start  she  responded 
to  every  command.  In  a  few  hours  I  could  stop  and  start 
her  at  will  in  a  buggy,  and  she  would  work  gently  and 
promptly  as  required  anywhere.  Now  this  was  but  a  little 
common-sense  in  the  way  of  management.  This  sort  ot 
tact  is  always  to  mingle  with  your  treatment  of  the  balker. 
An  ordinary  young  horse,  of  good  disposition,  can  usually  be 
made  to  go  on  by  a  little  patience  and  tact  in  winning  and 
humoring  him  to  go,  if  possible  not  to  let  the  horse  feel  or 
know  that  he  has  balked.  You  should  be  careful  about 


BALKING   IN    DOUBLE   HARNESS.  83 

removing,  so  far  as  y@u  can,  any  cause  of  needless  irritation. 
Perhaps  the  collar  fits  badly,  or  the  shoulders  are  sore.  If  the 
horse  is  compelled  to  pull  hard,  either  from  being  too  heavily 
loaded,  the  steepness  of  the  hill,  or  the  depth  of  the  mud, 
be  very  careful  to  aid  all  you  can  by  not  letting  him  pull 
so  far,  or  so  much  at  a  time,  that  he  gets  tired  out  and 
blown.  Second,  stop  him  where  he  can  start  the  load  most 
easily,  resting  often.  Encourage  all  you  can,  coming  to  the 
head  and  speaking  kindly,  rubbing  the  nose,  &c. ;  in  this  way 
you  can  get  a  horse  that  is  not  over-steady  and  honest  to 
pull  heavily  and  faithfully,  that  an  effort  to  rush  through 
under  the  whip  would  soon  make  balk  badly.  If  a  horse  in 
a  single  team  balks,  first  let  him  stand  a  while,  ease  up  on 
the  collar,  fix  the  bridle,  or  gently  take  him  by  the  head, 
always  breaking  the  force  of  the  load  by  turning  a  little 
sideways.  Any  means  of  disconcerting  the  horse  will  fre- 
quently enable  making  your  point.  Any  of  the  ordinary 
tricks  of  twisting  the  tongue,  putting  cobbles  in  the  ears  and 
dirt  in  the  mouth,  really  amount  to  little  or  nothing.  For  a 
simple  trick  that  is  perfectly  harmless,  blindfolding  is  about 
the  best  way  of  making  your  point.  This  will  disconcert 
so  much  that  he  will  move  on  all  right.  If  in  double  har- 
ness, get  to  the  heads,  turn  them  to  the  right  or  left,  and  with 
a  little  tact  you  can  usually  get  the  horse  to  go  on;  this 
may  do  when  a  horse  has  merely  learned  to  balk.  Every 
time  you  fail  to  let  such  have  their  own  way,  and  often 
when  you  do,  they  will  balk  in  defiance  of  any  amount  of 
kindness  and  good  management.  To  break  up  the  habit, 
you  must  be  able  to  force  the  horse  from  his  position,  then 
win  the  better  nature  into  co-operation,  and  you  can  break 
any  horse,  old  or  young,  of  the  habit  easily. 

BALKING  IN  DOUBLE  HABNESS. 

This  is  to  the  horseman  a  most  perplexing  and  difficult 
balker  to  manage.  There  is  no  chance  to  get  at  him  to 
make;  him  work.  The  whip  is  the  usual  remedy,  which  will 
only  make  matters  worse ;  yet  nothing  is  easier  to  do  than  to 
make  this  class  of  balkers  come  to  terms,  if  you  will  only  go 
to  work  properly. 

Various  ways  are  available.  First,  after  being  harnessed, 
put  on  the  war-bridle,  with  part  over  the  neck  up  to  the  ears. 


84  BALKING   IN   DOUBLE   HARNESS. 

If  you  have  no  gloves  on,  get  a  broomstick  or  any  ordinary 
piece  of  round  pole,  about  six  or  eight  feet  from  the  head, 
wind  the  cord  around  your  stick  so  that  it  will  not  slip,  stand 
quartering,  and  give  a  quick,  energetic  jerk,  gradually  re- 
peating until  the  horse  will  come  forward  promptly  without 
any  pulling.  This  point  must  be  made,  and  some  horses  will 
fight  it  quite  hard  for  some  little  time.  Usually  it  is  submit- 
ted to  in  five  to  ten  minutes.  Be  careful  that  the  cord  is 
under  the  bridle,  not  over  it,  on  top  of  the  head.  Now 
splice  a  piece  of  good  stiff  sapling  on  the  end  of  your 
wagon-tongue,  so  that  the  pole  will  be  extended  in  length 
about  three  feet  beyond  its  ordinary  length,  and  bore 
a  hole  in  the  end.  You  are  now  ready  to  make  the  next 
step :  hitch  up  the  horse  to  the  wagon  as  usual ;  tie  your 
war-bridle  cord  to  the  end  of  the  pole,  by  passing  through 
the  hole  and  tying  firmly,  giving  length  to  allow  of  entire 
freedom,  so  long  as  the  horse  will  do  his  part.  Tie  back  the 
whifHetree  of  the  gentle  horse.  If  he  will  not  go  when  com- 
manded, start  up  the  gentle  horse  quickly :  this  brings  the 
wagon  and  pole  ahead,  and  the  first  the  horse  knows  he  is 
jerked  off  his  feet,  and  obliged  to  start  and  keep  going. 
After  going  a  short  distance,  stop ;  then  say  "  get  up,"  start- 
ing the  gentle  horse  quickly,  which  will  bring  the  other  off 
his  feet  again.  About  the  third  time  he  will  be  glad  to  go 
when  the  other  does,  and  you  have  him  all  right.  Test  him 
hard,  so  that  there  is  no  inclination  to  fight  back.  A  little 
more  complicated  way  is  the  following,  which  is  better,  and  is 
more  especially  adapted  for  balking  before  the  plough  :  Put 
on  the  war-bridle  as  before,  and  shown  in  the  class  instruc- 
tion, and  pull  ahead,  following  up  carefully  and  thoroughly, 
until  the  horse  will  come  ahead  freely.  Next  get  a  good 
stiff  pole,  about  twelve  feet  in  length,  bore  a  three-quarter- 
inch  hole,  three  or  four  inches  from  each  end.  The  length 
of  the  pole,  you  see,  must  be  adapted  to  the  length  of  the 
horse  and  tongue.  Lay  this  pole  over  that  of  the  wagon, 
the  end  over  that  of  the  true  horse's  whiffletree,  a»d  tie 
firmly  on  top  with  a  piece  of  cord.  Now  step  forward,  and 
tie  a  piece  of  small  rope  from  one  hame-ring  to  the  other,  of 
the  horses,  under  the  pole,  so  as  to  be  just  taut  when  in 
position.  Pass  another  piece  of  the  same  sized  cord  around 
the  pole,  and  tie  it  into  the  true  horse's  hame-ring  short 


BALKING   IN   DOUBLE   HARNESS.  85 

enough  to  hold  the  pole  in  the  centre.  Or  you  can  get 
a  ring  that  will  slip  over  the  pole  easily,  and  from  it  extend  a 
cord  or  strap  to  each  hame-ring,  and  run  the  pole  through 
this  ring  which  will  hold  it  in  place.  Tie  the  cord  on  the 
head  now  to  the  pole  through  the  hole  at  the  end,  and  leav- 
ing it  just  long  enough  to  give  freedom,  so  long  as  the  horses 
keep  even ;  but  as  soon  as  there  is  refusal  to  go,  the  strength 
of  the  true  horse  is  brought  by  the  pole  on  the  head,  which 
will  compel  going  ahead.  (See  cut.)  Start  and  stop  the 
horses  until  obedience  is  secured.  This  pole  may  be  left  on 
an  hour  to  half  a  day  as  desired. 

The  horse  should  not  be  required  at  first  to  use  much 
strength  in  drawing.     Let  this  be  required  gradually,  as 


Pole  applied  to  balker,  as  shown  when  attached  to  the  off  horse. 

is  obedience  and  willingness  inspired  to  work.  It  is  a  grave 
fault  to  try  to  make  the  horse  wdrk  immediately.  This  must 
not  be  attempted.  First,  create  a  willingness  to  start  when 
commanded,  then  gradually  increase  the  load  until  it  be- 
comes habitual  to  draw  when  commanded.  I  forgot  to  men- 
tion that  when  the  purchase  is  obtained  by  extending  the 
wagon-tongue,  at  first  let  the  wagon  be  empty.  As  you  make 
the  horse  go  as  desired,  then  gradually  put  in  load.  Either 
of  these  methods,  when  applied  properly,  will  break  a  horse 
of  the  habit.  It  gives  all  the  advantage  needed,  and  only  a 
little  care  is  necessary  in  carrying  out  the  principle  and  prac- 
tice to  break  any  horse  easily  of  balking. 


86  A   SIMPLER   WAY. 

A  SIMPLER  WAY. 

Sometimes  a  horse  will  respond  to  the  following  means 
readily.  Young  horses,  of  a  nervous  temperament,  will  be 
most  likely  to  submit  surest  and  easiest.  Take  a  small  but 
strong  cord,  same  as  I  use  for  war-bridle  if  obtainable,  about 
twenty- two  feet  in  length ;  double  it,  and  place  the  centre 
under  the  balky  horse's  tail,  same  as  a  crupper ;  twist  the  cords 
two  or  three  times,  and  bring  them  forward,  through  the  tur- 
ret and  across  to  the  hame-ringof  the  gentle  horse,  or  extend 
forward,  and  tie  to  the  end  of  the  wagon-tongue.  Tie  back 
the  gentle  horse's  end  of  the  double  tie.  Now  the  purchase 
is  directly  under  the  tail,  which  will  make  some  young  horses 
work  all  right  in  a  few  minutes ;  but  others,  of  an  old  and 
stubborn  character,  are  likely  not  to  submit  to  it.  If  colts 
are  made  gentle  as  I  direct  by  the  second  method  of  sub- 
jection, there  would  be  no  inclination  to  balk,  double  or 
single. 

BALKING  SINGLE. 

This  is  more  difficult  to  overcome,  but  by  no  means  im- 
possible, even  when  extremely  bad,  to  break  up  easily.  We 
have  the  right  principle,  and  can  carry  our  control  to  any  ex- 
treme desired,  making  success  certain  with  reasonable  effort. 
If  I  desire  to  be  particular,  I  hitch  up  the  horse  as  if  to  make 
a  journey,  making  no  effort  to  break  him ;  but  I  am  ready  for 
this  point  when  the  time  comes.  I  let  the  horse  go  anywhere 
he  will,  if  I  can  get  him  to  go  at  all,  until  I  get  him  into 
some  back  street  or  field.  Now  is  my  time ;  for  I  caution 
you,  it  does  no  good,  as  a  rule,  to  work  a  balker  in  a  barn, 
and  then  expect  he  will  drive  all  right  out  of  doors.  You 
will  usually  find  him  as  stubborn  as  ever.  Secondly,  you 
must  not  try  to  break  the  horse  in  the  presence  of  people, 
and  be  very  particular  to  be  where. ladies  cannot  see  you.  If 
the  horse  balks  with  you  in  a  public  place  or  street,  get  him 
out  of  it  as  easily  and  with  as  little  excitement  as  you  can. 
I  urge  this  upon  you  strongly :  wait  until  you  have  privacy 
and  time  to  make  your  success  sure  and  practical,  without 
annoying  the  feelings  of  others.  Arriving  at  such  a  place  as 
you  wish  to  subject  the  horse  to  treatment,  make  him  balk. 
Unhitch  him,  and  tie  up  the  tugs  and  reins  carefully ;  put  on 
a  halter,  and  submit  him  to  the  second  method  of  subjection, 


BALKING   SINGLE.  87 

reversing  once  or  twice.  Make  this  point  thoroughly. 
Now  put  on  the  double  hitch,  and  make  the  next  point 
thoroughly,  of  making  the  horse  lead  without  an  impulse  of 
resistance.  Then  turn  the  cord  into  the  simple  form  of  war- 
bridle,  and  pull  ahead  as  for  double  balking,  or  to  lead  until 
that  point  is  well  made  :  be  very  careful  that  the  cord  is 
under  the  bridle.  Now  tie  the  cord  into  the  turret,  and  drive 
around  by  the  reins,  making  the  horse  start  and  stop  as  de- 
sired, and  for  which  reward  liberally.  You  are  simply,  all  the 
time,  only  preparing  for  the  real  tug  of  battle,  by  weakening 
the  horse's  confidence  sufficiently  to  be  able  to  force  him 
over  the  point  of  resistance  when  hitched,  and  thoroughly 
overcome  all  inclination  of  repeating  the  habit.  It  is  easy 
enough  to  make  the  horse  go  and  work  quite  well  for  the 
present ;  but  the  real  point  to  be  made  is  to  get  up  so  thor- 
ough a  re-action  in  the  mind,  that  there  will  be  no  inclination 
to  balk  afterwards.  So  when  you  hitch  to  the  wagon,  work 
as  gently  as  you  can,  at  first  feel  your  way,  stopping  and 
starting  with  all  the  .delicacy  and  encouragement  you  would 
do  without  the  resource  of  power. 

If  you  have  made  previous  work  thorough,  the  horse  will  be 
likely  to  work  in  nicely.  If  so,  work  slowly  and  gently,  with  the 
utmost  kindness,  until  he  is  cool  and  entirely  over  the  excite- 
ment. It  is,  however,  often  the  case  the  horse  will  resist  with 
great  stubborness  when  you  hitch  him  to  shafts.  Try  the  simple 
form  of  war-bridle  first :  it  will  usually  make  the  horse  yield 
the  point ;  but  if  he  fights  it  hard,  increase  your  power  by 
using  the  double  hitch,  which  will  rarely  fail.  If,  however,  the 
horse  is  a  stubborn,  plucky  brute,  unhitch,  and  go  back  at 
once  to  the  second  course  of  subjection,  now  occasionally 
giving  a  keen  cut  of  the  whip  across  the  tip  of  the  nose, 
which  will  hurt  intensely.  Follow  up  again  as  before,  hitch- 
ing up  and  driving :  when  there  is  prompt  obedience,  reward 
with  the  kindest  treatment.  You  should  always  carefully 
test  the  horse  once  or  twice  the  next  day,  and  see  there  is  no 
intention  left  to  repeat  the  resistance.  If  all  horses  were  alike 
I  could  give  a  definite  rule ;  but,  as  they  are  not,  we  must 
simply  harmonize  the  efforts  to  the  case.  Ordinary  cases 
yield  readily  to  one  sharp  lesson.  The  second  method  of 
subjection  is  by  all  odds  the  most  reliable  and  valuable  means 
of  breaking  single  balkers.  This  treatment,  properly  ap- 


88  WILL   NOT   STAND. IF   CHECKED  WILL    BALK. 

plied,  will  remove  all  inclination  in  the  colt  to  balk  or  kick. 
No  other  principle,  yet  discovered,  is  so  humane,  simple  and 
practical.  Combined  with  other  treatment  referred  to,  it 
will  enable  perfect  success  in  every  case. 

WILL  NOT  STAND.  — IF  STOPPED,  WILL  BALK. 

This  is  also  the  result  of  the  old  defective  treatment,  that 
does  not  give  any  thing  for  removing  inclination  to  the  habit. 
It  is  a  habit  that  is  entirely  the  result  of  ignorant  and  bad 
management.  A  horse  would  just  as  soon  stand  as  do  any 
thing  else,  when  shown  properly;  but  when  the  colt  is 
allowed  to  go  as  he  pleases,  and  learns  to  pull  against  the 
bit,  pulling  him  back  to  stand  only  makes  him  restless  and 
eager  to  go,  and  is  very  likely  to  make  him  mad,  and,  if  not 
allowed  to  go,  he  may  balk.  Some  horses  will  learn  this  habit 
very  quickly,  and,  once  started  in  it,  are  very  persistent.  It 
is  a  habit,  however,  brought  easily  under  control.  If  the 
horse  has  a  good  stiff  mouth,  and  pulls  ahead  upon  the  bit, 
a  few  minutes'  lesson  with  the  breaking-bit  will  usually  make 
him  stand  kindly.  If  this  will  not  do,  subject  him  to  a 
second  course  of  subjection.  Next,  put  on  harness  with 
breaking-bit,  and  in  a  peremptory  manner  force  him  to  stand  : 
if  he  lunges  ahead,  set  him  back  on  his  heels,  which  you  can 
easily  do  with  this  bit.  But  it  is  equally  important  that  you 
make  the  horse  start  as  promptly.  If  you  are  too  positive  in 
your  control  of  the.  mouth  with  the  bit,  the  horse  may  now 
balk ;  and  this  is  the  point  to  be  next  overcome.  Try  the 
whip  first,  by  giving  him  one  or  two  keen  cuts  around  the 
hind  legs,  up  near  the  body.  Simply  stop  and  start  until 
there  is  prompt  obedience.  One  lesson  of  this  kind  will 
control  all  common  cases, "but  it  is*  possible  your  subject 
will  balk  squarely  and  in  the  most  positive  manner ;  then  try 
the  double  draw  hitch  and  war-bridle,  as  before  explained, 
in  another  part  of  this  chapter,  until  there  is  prompt  obedi- 
ence. It  is  rarely  this  will  not  enable  perfect  success  in  a 
few  minutes  :  it  will  in  every  case  if  used  properly.  If  an 
exceptionably  bad  case,  the  regular  course,  as  for  single  balk- 
ing, may  be  used.  If  the  horse  is  of  a  high-strung,  irritable 
disposition,  —  one  of  those  that  seem  to  work  in  easily,  yet  is 
restless  and  irritable,  —  it  is  possible  you  must  work  slowly  and 
carefully,  especially  so  if  sensitive  to  the  whip.  The  course 


WILL    NOT   STAND. IF    CHECKED  WILL    BALK.  89 

I  would  take  is  this ;  and  if  you  are  at  all  careful  and  handy, 
you  will  succeed  easily.  First  put  on  the  double  draw,  and 
lift  the  horse  a  few  times  out  of  his  tracks.  This  will  be  a 
new  idea  of  your  power,  for  this  is  fearfully  powerful  in  its 
way.  Once  yielding  to  you,  turn  this  into  the  simple  straight 
war-bridle,  and  lift  him  ahead  until  he  comes  promptly.  You 
have  now  made  a  good  start :  now  put  on  the  harness,  and 
with  the  reins  stop  and  start  him.  If  he  gets  mad,  and  will 
not  start,  lift  him  with  the  war-bridle.  As  soon  as  he  yields, 
caress,  and  reward  him  with  some  apple,  sugar,  and  salt, 
or  something  else.  Drill  him  on  this  point  as  follows : 
start  him  a  little,  command  "  Whoa  ! "  and  stop  him ;  step 
forward,  caress,  speak  kindly,  and  give  something.  Go  back, 
starting  him  moderately,  letting  him  go  a  little  farther,  stop- 
ping and  rewarding  as  before,  until  there  is  prompt  obedi- 
ence, and  the  mind  is  thoroughly  fixed  on  the  idea  of  the 
reward  for  obedience.  All  this  will  require  but  twenty,  thirty, 
or  forty  minutes  at  the  most.  Head  your  wagon  towards  the 
barn  or  wall,  but  some  distance  away,  and  hitch  in  the  horse, 
being  very  careful  that  the  reins  are  in  the  turrets.  As  soon 
as  geared  in,  go  to  the  nose,  right  in  front,  caress  a  little,  at 
the  same  time  give  a  little  something  of  which  he  is  fond.  In 
this  way  hold  the  attention  a  minute  or  two,  then  walk  ahead 
slowly,  and  say  "  Come  :  "  the  horse  will  instinctively  fol- 
low. After  going  a  few  feet,  stop  him,  reward  again,  stand- 
ing a  little  while,  but  carefully  holding  the  attention.  After 
a  few  movements  of  this  kind,  gradually  at  each  repetition 
get  back  to  the  shoulder  side,  and  finally  into  the  wagon, 
and,  as  you  repeat,  now  get  in  and  out  of  the  wagon,  mak- 
ing more  stir  and  noise,  but  each  time  going  forward,  when 
the  horse  will  stand  rewarding  him.  Get  in  and  out  this 
way,  and  gradually  winning  the  horse's  attention  from  dis- 
obedience ;  hitch  and  unhitch  him,  getting  in  and  out  of 
the  wagon  until  you  can  put  him  in  shafts ;  pick  up  the 
reins,  and  make  all  the  fuss  you  please,  and  he  will  wait  for 
the  command  to  go,  before  starting.  Great  care  should  be 
used  about  hitting  a  sensitive  horse  with  a  whip  the  instant 
you  get  in.  In  this  way  some  horses  will  learn  very  quickly 
to  become  impatient  and  restless.  If  I  could  see  the  horse 
and  the  man,  I  could  tell  exactly  the  treatment  most  advisa- 
ble. I  would  advise  you,  if  you  are  a  timid  and  not  very 


90  RUNNING    BACK. 

strong  man,  who  would  avoid  any  thing  like  abuse  or  a 
fight  with  the  horse,  to  take  this  course.  You  will  be  sur- 
prised at  your  success ;  but  it  may  take  you  several  hours  to 
do  it.  Then  be  careful  for  a  few  times,  hitching,  taking  a 
few  moments  in  stopping  and  starting  as  before,  and  re- 
warding ;  then  gradually  let  the  horse  out  to  his  work.  There 
is  a  great  deal  in  this  sort  of  natural  tact ;  and  I  would  ask, 
What  are  a  few  hours'  or  a  half-day's  time  spent  in  this 
way,  compared  to  the  gratification  and  success  the  effort 
accomplishes  ? 

RUNNING  BACK. 

If,  in  training  the  colt,  you  make  him  back  too  freely  when 
pulled  upon,  you  are  liable  to  have  this  habit  learned,  which 
is  a  very  bad  one,  because  so  much  beyond  control.  It  is 
on  this  account  I  repeatedly  warn  not  to  try  to  back  the 
colt  until  he  learns  to  go  ahead  and  sideways,  and  does  it 
well,  and  be  careful  not  to  get  the  colt's  mouth  too  sensi- 
tive. No  matter  how  stubbornly  a  colt  may  resist  the  bit,  or 
how  hard  the  mouth,  there  will  be  no  difficulty  of  making  it 
as  sensitive  as  you  please  with  the  breaking-bit.  If,  for 
example,  you  were  to  force  the  colt  to  back  while  warm,  and 
after  a  desperate  struggle,  you  will  find  that  next  day  the 
colt  will  be  too  light  on  the  bit.  Make  him  go  back  now, 
freely,  a  few  times,  and  the  habit  is  established ;  or  if  restless, 
and  you  pull  back  sharply,  making  the  colt  to  run  back,  if 
you  are  not  careful,  it  will  become  an  established  habit. 

To  break  up  this  habit,  there  must  be  established  a 
thorough  fear  of  the  whip,  so  as  to  induce  going  ahead  when 
commanded.  Put  on  harness,  and  tie  the  tugs  into  the  rings 
of  the  breeching  rather  short.  Drive  around  with  the  reins, 
giving  a  sharp  cut,  with  a  good  bow-whip,  around  the  legs 
once  in  a  while,  if  not  prompt.  As  the  horse  learns  to 
spring  ahead  when  commanded,  pull  a  little  on  the  lines, 
gradually  repeating  until  he  will  pull  quite  hard  on  the  bit 
to  go  ahead.  Make  this  as  thorough  as  possible.  In  driv- 
ing, repeat  this,  going  ahead  promptly,  whipping  up  sharply 
once  in  a  while,  if  necessary. 

The  main  point  is  to  create  a  thorough  fear  of  going  back. 
Now,  attach  to  wagon,  and  gradually  work  up  with  whip. 
The  foot-strap  may  be  put  on,  if  there  is  any  possible  danger 
of  the  horse  running  back  when  hitched. 


RUNNING    AWAY.  91 

The  course  I  take  is  this  :  with  the  harness  on,  and  refus- 
ing to  go  ^ahead,  or  after  running  back  when  pulled  upon,  I 
put  on  the  war-bridle,  as  for  double  balker,  and  I  lift  him 
ahead ;  and  he  gives  up  all  inclination  to  try  again  to  resist. 
I  follow  up  now,  using  the  whip  around  the  hind  legs  once 
in  a  while  keenly ;  the  main  point  being  to  be  thorough ;  at 
first,  if  thought  advisable  for  security,  using  the  foot-strap 
when  attached  to  a  wagon.  This  is  a  habit  we  break  up  very 
easily.  Once  the  inclination  is  overcome,  the.  horse  is  usually 
safe. 

RUNNING  AWAY. -WILL  NOT   BACK. -FULLING  ON 
ONE  REIN. 

This  habit  is  the  result  of  the  present  defective  system  of 
breaking  horses.  Nothing  is  done  to  overcome  the  nervous 
sensibility  and  fear  of  the  colt  or  horse.  He  is  simply  put 
in  harness.  There  is  no  certain  control  of  the  mouth  by  the 
bit.  Something  goes  wrong,  which  excites  the  fears,  and 
away  the  horse  goes,  in  defiance  of  any  restraint  upon  the 
mouth  with  reins  and  bit,  as  a  reckless  horse  can  run  away 
in  defiance  of  the  united  pulling  of  several  men  on  the  bit. 
It  is  an  important  part  of  our  programme  not  to  make  a 
failure,  or  expose  to  injury  or  loss ;  to  be  able  to  measure 
the  difficulty  of  the  case,  and  make  no  guess-work  in  its 
control,  is  the  first  condition.  An  ordinary  case  will,  of 
course,  yield  readily  to  a  firm,  strong  hand  and  sharp  bit ; 
but  all  this  is  only  palliative,  and  far  from  sufficient  when  a 
horse  is  decidedly  bad,  and  learns  to  rush  against  the  bit. 
The  main  point  of  my  success  in  the  management  of  this 
habit  is  in  going  to  work  indirectly  at  the  cause  ;  and  here  I 
am  most  thorough.  But  I  do  not  stop  here  :  I  culminate 
my  treatment  upon  the  mouth ;  and  after  once  taking  the 
point  in  hand,  never  leave  it,  let  the  time  be  short  or  long, 
repeating,  if  necessary,  until  the  mouth  is  perfectly  plastic  to 
the  gentlest  restraint  of  the  bit.  Thus  I  can  and  do  make 
a  radical  reform,  and  it  is  the  only  way  it  can  be  done 
practically.  The  first  step  I  aim  for  in  training  the  colt,  is 
to  make  him  as  gentle  as  any  old,  well-broken  horse ;  the 
next,  to  get  perfect  control  of  the  mouth.  I  am,  in  conse- 
quence, able  to  do  easily  and  surely  what  is  very  difficult,  if 
not  impossible  to,  by  the  ordinary  system  of  bitting  and 


92  PULLING   ON    ONE    REIN. 

training,  and  leave  the  horse  perfectly  gentle  and  free  from 
inclination  to  resist  control  afterwards.  If  it  is  fear  of  being 
touched,  or  of  any  thing  behind,  that  causes  the  horse  to 
run  away,  that  sensibility  should,  as  far  as  possible,  be  at 
first  overcome.  The  average  of  such  horses  have  been 
frightened  by  the  breeching,  or  something,  giving  way ;  and 
the  fear  excited  by  the  unusual  contact  makes  the  horse 
afterwards  partially  or  wholly  unmanageable.  If  it  is  fear 
of  the  wagon,  resort  to  FIRST  OR  SECOND  methods  of  subjec- 
tion, or  both ;  and,  as  this  habit  is  often  combined  with  that 
of  kicking,  the  cause  of  the  excitement  must  be  removed,  the 
same  as  in  kicking ;  so  that  you  can  take  either  of  the  meth- 
ods of  subjection,  as  you  may  find  advisable.  Having  made 
this  point,  next  get  the  mouth  under  control  with  the  break- 
ing-bit. Experience  teaches  me  that  the  surest  and  best 
way  is  to  overcome  all  tendency  of  pulling  against  the  bit, 
on  the  same  principle  we  remove  all  tendency  in  the  horse 
to  kick  by  overcoming  the  sensibility  of  the  part ;  here  the 
difficulty  being  that  of  pulling  against  the  bit  so  hard  that 
the  horse  cannot  be  held.  The  true  principle  of  success  is 
to  combat  the  resistance  directly,  until  it  is  entirely  over- 
come, and  there  is  perfect  obedience  to  the  slightest  restraint 
of  the  reins.  Neither  is  this  difficult  to  do  :  on  the  contrary, 
they  yield  to  this  treatment  so  readily  that  I  can  bring  the 
average  of  such  under  perfect  control  in  fifteen  to  twenty 
minutes,  so  that  they  will,  at  the  word,  stop  instantly.  This 
was  the  secret  of  my  driving  the  Malone  horse,  Wild  Pete, 
and  other  noted  horses,  so  easily,  referred  to  in  the  first  chap- 
ter. I  frequently  get  horses  that  cannot  be  made  to  back, 
resisting  even  the  pulling  of  six  or  eight  men  on  the  reins ; 
yet,  after  a  little  effort,  on  this  principle,  properly  directed, 
they  will  soon  learn  to  back  freely  as  required,  to  the  lightest 
pressure  of  the  bit  on  the  mouth.  The  principle  is  the 
same  in  breaking  up  the  habit  of 

PULLING  ON  ONE  REIN. -WILL  NOT  BACK. -TURN- 
ING AROUND. 

Overcome  the  resistance  on  the  side  pulled  against  by 
pulling  on  that  side  sharply,  until  resistance  ceases,  and  the 
habit  becomes  easy  to  break  up.  Whatever  we  do,  we  must 
ultimately  depend  upon  our  control  of  the  mouth.  If  this  is 


PULLING   ON   ONE   REIN.  93 

defective,  our  work  is  at  least  but  half  done,  and  the  usua\ 
result  is  some  form  of  resistance  to  the  bit.  The  breaking- 
bit  gives  a  sure  and  easy  means  of  obtaining  control  of  the 
mouth,  and  thus  of  avoiding  as  well  as  breaking  up  these 
mouth  habits,  so  difficult  to  reach  by  other  means.  After 
subjecting  the  horse  to  treatment  until  not  afraid  of  having 
quarters,  &c.,  touched,  put  on  the  harness,  with  breaking-bit 
in  the  bridle  ;  run  the  reins  back  through  the  shaft  lugs ; 
get  behind  and  take  a  firm  hold  of  the  reins  j  give  a  quick, 
but  slightly  raking  pull,  whether  the  horse  gives  or  not. 
After  a  short  interval  repeat,  pulling  harder,  or  not,  accord- 
ing to  the  resistance  of  the  horse.  In  this  way  follow  up 
until  the  horse  will  give  freely  to  the  bit.  Now  move  the 
horse  forward  on  a  moderate  walk ;  call  "  Whoa  !  "  sharply, 
and,  if  he  does  not  stop,  bring  the  weight  of  the  body  upon 
the  mouth  as  before,  with  a  sharp,  quick,  raking  jerk,  which 
must,  if  possible,  be  strong  enough  to  stop  and  throw  the 
horse  back.  After  a  short  interval,  repeat  this  movement, 
stopping  gradually,  and  letting  out  the  horse  faster,  until  you 
can  let  out  on  a  fast  trot,  and  run  or  stop  instantly  at  com- 
mand. All  this  should  be  done  out  in  the  yard  or  field.  You 
can  tell  by  the  prompt  and  easy  submission  of  the  horse 
when  it  will  do  to  make  the  next  step  of  driving  to  wagon  : 
when  you  do  commence  again,  back  and  work  up,  holding 
your  point  of  control  up  to  the  fastest  gait.  The  slower  the 
horse  moves,  the  more  easy  your  control;  the  faster,  the 
less.  So  your  policy  should  be  to  take  advantage  of  every 
point  in  your  favor,  which  lessens  resistance  and  increases 
your  power  to  the  end  of  perfect  success.  Unless  you 
know  you  have  the  horse  perfectly  in  hand,  you  should  not 
let  him  out  to  a  fast  gait,  and  then  try  to  hold  or  stop  him. 
If  you  do,  and  fail  to  stop  him  as  you  desire,  the  horse  will 
gain  courage  by  the  resistance,  and  be  likely  to  run  away  with 
you,  or  try  to  do  so.  There  are  a  great  many  who  think,  be- 
cause they  are  strong,  they  can  hold  any  horse  :  give  them 
only  a  good  hold  of  the  reins,  and  they  are  not  afraid  to 
drive  any  horse.  If  you  are  of  this  mind,  your  confidence  is 
based  upon  ignorance  and  inexperience  ;  and  you  are  worse 
than  a  fool  for  taking  chances  so  much  against  you,  and 
which  do  not  in  any  way  prove  skill.  No  one  man,  or 
even  four  men,  can  hold,  by  a  dead  pull,  even  with  the 


94  PULLING   ON   ONE   REIN. 

power  of  the  breaking-bit,  a  horse  of  decided  courage  and 
nerve,  that  has  learned  to  lunge  savagely  against  the  bit, 
from  fear  or  other  cause.  It  is  not  unusual  for  the  writer  to 
have  horses  brought  forward,  of  this  character,  that  at  first 
would  pull,  on  a  walk  on  the  barn  floor,  against  the  entire 
strength  of  from  four  to  eight  and  ten  men.* 

If  given  the  advantage  of  motion,  such  horses  could  carry 
along  almost  any  weight  thrown  upon  the  mouth  from  a 
wagon.  I  admit  there  is  no  great  difficulty  in  holding  any 
common  horse,  even  with  an  ordinary  bit ;  but  I  am  referring 
to  horses  that  have  resisted,  and  would  run  away  in  defiance 
of,  any  bit  or  control  of  any  rigging  in  use  upon  the  head. 
I  frequently  have  horses  offered  for  treatment  before  the 
class  that  had  overdraw  checks  and  reins,  and  the  most 
powerful  bits  used  upon  horses,  that  would  run  away  at  the 
drop  of  a  hat,  in  harness,  regardless  of  any  restraint  by  such 
means  upon  the  mouth  ;  yet  it  is  upon  such  that  I  have  and 
do  make  my  greatest  hits  of  success,  and  I  never  found  one 
I  could  not  make  so  gentle  as  to  submit  to  be  driven  as  I 
pleased,  under  excitement  or  not,  with  entire  safety.  I  will 
refer  here  to  a  few  exceptionally  bad  cases.  In  Memphis, 
Tenn.,  a  large  white  horse,  owned  by  a  coal-dealer  named 
Watson,  had  run  away  several  times  in  succession.  A  mule 
and  horse  drover  from  Alabama,  who  openly  bragged  that 
he  could  drive  any  living  runaway  horse,  after  the  greatest 
deliberation  and  care,  made  the  experiment.  The  bad  char- 
acter of  the  horse,  in  connection  with  the  great  pretension  of 
the  man,  who  had  the  advantage  of  being  large  and  power- 
ful in  build,  made  the  case  interesting.  The  horse  ran  from 
the  first  jump,  the  man  having  no  control  whatever  over 
him,  resulting  in  almost  fatal  injuries  to  the  man  ;  the  horse 
smashing  the  wagon,  and  clearing  himself  from  all  encum- 
brance. The  next  and  last  attempt  to  drive  him  was  by  a 
mule-drover  from  Mississippi.  He  knew  he  could  drive  the 
horse  :  he,  in  fact,  claimed  to  be  invincible.  This  time  the 
man  was  thrown,  an  arm  broken,  and  almost  fatally  injured ; 
the  horse  running  into  the  Mississippi  River,  and  was  res- 


*  Twice  during  the  past  winter  ordinary  sized  horses,  noted  runaways,  treated 
before  the  class,  pulled  at  first  against  the  united  strength  of  ten  men,  on  a  walk, 
with  such  desperation  as  to  pull  themselves  down  upon  the  belly  on  the  floor,  yet 
were  broken  so  thoroughly  that  they  were  afterwards  perfectly  safe. 


PULLING   ON   ONE   REIN.  95 

cued  from  drowning  with  great  difficulty.  Both  men  were 
still  in  the  city,  confined  from  the  effects  of  their  injuries, 
when  I  went  there.  It  was  well  understood  that  no  man 
could  drive  this  horse  ;  and  no  man  in  that  country  could  be 
induced  to  try  the  experiment  again,  for  love  or  money,  so 
bad  was  the  reputation  of  the  horse.  I  brought  this  horse 
under  such  complete  subjection  in  an  hour,  that  I  did  every 
thing  with  him  that  could  be  done  in  the  open  street,  to  show 
his  perfect  docility ;  allowing  him  to  trot  off  up  the  street, 
ten  rods  away,  and  make  him  stop  instantly  at  command. 
Gen.  Forrest,  Gen.  Rucker,  Capt.  Forrest,  and  others  com- 
bined to  break  me  down.  They  believed  I  had  given  the 
horse  medicine,  or  something  else.  The  horse  was  put 
under  lock  and  key  for  a  week,  when  I  was  commanded  to 
drive  him  :  I  did  so,  with  perfect  success,  proving  the  horse 
perfectly  safe.  The  success  of  the  trial  was  so  great  as  to 
win  for  me  the  voluntary  indorsement  of  the  gentlemen 
named,  including  other  leading  citizens,  who  became  mem- 
bers of  my  class  in  that  city.  In  Garrettsville,  O.,  was 
owned  a  nine-year-old  horse  by  a  livery  man,  named  J.  R. 
Gates,  that  would  run  away  in  harness  any  way  they  could 
fix  him,  and  was  wholly  unmanageable.  After  one  lesson, 
of  not  more  than  thirty  to  forty  minutes'  time,  he  could  be 
driven,  perfectly  gentle,  and  after  standing  two  weeks  without 
doing  any  thing  more  with  him  (for  upon  trial  I  found  him 
safe),  he  was  driven  to  wagon  by  me  down  the  main  street 
of  that  village,  controlling  the  horse  by  word,  while  ten  rods 
behind.  He  was  sold  as  a  family  driving-horse  to  a  gentle- 
man in  Pittsburg,  Penn.,  and  has  remained  perfectly  gentle. 
Wild  Pete,  the  Smawley  horse  of  Petroleum  Centre,  Penn., 
referred  to  on  page  14,  was  another  remarkable  case. 
This  horse  was  actually  wild  and  desperate.  It  was  an  utter 
impossibility  to  drive  him,  or  hold  him  in  harness.  This 
horse  was  generally  known,  and  all  laughed  at  the  idea  of 
breaking  or  driving  him.  I  made  the  public  declaration 
that  I  would  drive  him,  perfectly  gentle,  in  an  hour ;  and  I 
made  the  statement  good  by  not  only  doing  it,  but  broke 
him  in  the  time  so  thoroughly  that  he  has  been  used  as  a 
family  driving-horse  since,  and  he  has  proved  absolutely  safe. 
When  in  Toledo,  O.,  I  broke  a  five-year-old  colt,  owned  by 
J.  P.  Collins,  proprietor  of  the  track  there,  in  one  lesson  of 


96  CAUTION. 

forty  minutes,  that  was  entirely  unmanageable  in  harness. 
Mr.  Collins,  as  a  last  resort,  with  the  purpose  of  driving  him 
at  all  hazards,  tied  the  horse  back  to  another  by  his  side, 
and  even  then  the  reckless  young  brute  succeeded  in  getting 
away.  I  could  multiply  these  exceptional  cases  by  the  hun- 
dred, if  I  desired :  indeed,  almost  every  day  or  two,  colts 
and  horses  are  brought  forward  to  be  handled  before  the 
class,  that  cannot  be  driven  in  harness,  —  horses  that  have 
been  spoiled,  or  that  had  never  been  put  in  harness ;  and 
with  some  only  exceptional  cases  I  have  no  trouble  in  driving, 
even  without  breeching,  in  fifteen  to  thirty  minutes.  The 
point  to  be  attained  is,  to  weaken  the  resistance,  and  get  per- 
fect hold  of  the  mouth,  making  it  perfectly  flexible  to  the 
restraint  of  the  bit.  If  the  horse  is  cold-blooded  and  decid- 
edly courageous,  you  are,  at  first,  likely  to  experience  great 
opposition;  for  in  proportion  as  the  horse  is  warmed  up, 
he  will  be  likely  to  fight  your  effort  to  control  him  with  an 
insane  fury  that  makes  him  seem  regardless  of  any  thing  you 
may  do.  This  is  not  unusual  if  the  horse  is  a  very  bad  one, 
and  has  been  successful  in  resisting  the  bit.  Have  no  fear 
of  the  result.  Keep  cool ;  follow  up  one  point  after  'another 
until  there  is  complete  submission,  and  your  success  will  be 
sure.  The  course  I  take  is  this  :  if  the  horse  becomes  warm 
and  reckless,  to  stop  until  cool,  when  I  go  to  work  as  before  ; 
you  gain  a  great  advantage  by  letting  the  horse  get  cool,  as 
he  is  now,  from  the  effects  of  the  previous  lesson,  keenly  sus- 
ceptible to  pain,  and  can  usually  be  rushed  over  the  point  of 
contest  before  he  gets  warm  again.  The  sensibilities  are  so 
blunted,  when  thoroughly  mad  and  warmed  up,  that  it  is  dif- 
ficult to  make  the  horse  yield  when  greatly  excited ;  but, 
however  stubborn,  letting  the  horse  get  cool  and  then  repeat- 
ing the  lesson  will  insure  success.  I  will  say  here,  that  I 
never  in  all  my  experience  had  any  serious  injury  result  to 
the  mouth  by  any  seeming  severity.  If  I  find  the  horse  is 
of  a  strong,  reckless,  positive  character,  I  go  to  work  very 
carefully,  giving  myself  time  to  repeat  the  lesson. 

CAUTIOET. 

I  would  caution  here  not  to  push  colts  by  fighting  them 
too  hard  with  the  breaking-bit.  But  we  will  suppose  the 
colt  is  but  partly  broken,  — has  a  strong,  heavy  mouth.  If 


TURNING   AROUND.  97 

he  becomes  warm  and  resists  desperately,  and  you  push 
through  until  he  yields,  you  will  be  likely  to  find  the 
mouth  so  tender,  the  day  following,  that  he  will  not  bear 
at  all  against  the  bit.  It  is  this  yielding  to  restraint,  by  act- 
ing persistently  upon  the  mouth  with  a  certain  form  of  bit, 
that  enables  me  to  break  and  control  all  peculiarities  of  re- 
sistance to  the  mouth  so  easily ;  and  the  ability  to  break 
of  pulling  on  one  rein,  refusing  to  back,  and  of  running 
away,  may  all  really  be  classed  under  one  head,  because 
broken  by  the  same  principles  of  treatment.  The  horses 
referred  to  on  a  previous  page  were  each  broken  by  one 
lesson.  I  have  had,  however,  many  cases  I  could  not  con- 
trol without  repeating  treatment,  once  or  twice,  and  in 
two  cases  —  noted  horses  —  repeated  three  times  ;  but 
my  ultimate  success  was  complete.  I  think  it  proper,  be- 
fore closing  this  chapter,  to  include  a  description  of  other 
means  of  great  value  for  the  control  of  runaway  horses, — 
means  by  which  we  can  restrain  and  control  kickers,  by 
direct  power  to  force  the  head  up  and  back,  and  will  work 
equally  well  on  the  runaway.  Here  I  would  call  attention 
to  the  different  forms  of  reins,  given  in  the  chapter  on 
kicking.  Either  form  gives  great  power  over  runaway 
horses,  and  in  many  cases  of  lugging,  or  pulling  against 
the  bit,  work  admirably.  The  foot-strap,  overdraw-check, 
or  power-reins,  will  enable  the  easy  control  of  any  ordi- 
nary runaway  horses.  The  power-rein,  or  purchase,  as 
shown  by  the  cord  illustration,  which  can  be  modified,  if 
desired,  by  using  reins  with  corresponding  construction, 
to  give  the  pulling  power  upon  the  head,  can  be  substi- 
tuted. But,  as  I  have  stated  before,  I  discard  all  these 
means  now  in  my  practice. 

TURNING  ABOUND. 

This  is  another  habit  that  results  from  defective  mouth- 
training.  With  some  exceptions,  the  habit  is  controlled 
easily ;  simply  using  »the  breaking-bit  is  all  that  is  neces- 
sary, or  working  the  mouth  with  it  until  the  head  is  turned 
freely  to  the  control  of  the  bit.  Pull,  and  repeat,  against 
the  hard  side  of  the  mouth,  until  the  head  will  be  turned, 
when  pulled,  freely.  One  of  the  simplest  and  most  effi- 
cient, is  the  following,  illustrated  by  cut.  Provide  your- 


98  WILL   NOT   BACK. 

self  with  an  ordinary  steel  bit,  such  as  are  ordinarily  used 
for  the  overdraw-check  :  to  this  bit  is  attached  two  small 
straps,  which  are  passed  up  over  the  head  and  through  a 
small  loop  just  above  each  ear,  on  the  top  of  the  bridle, 
extending  back  as  ordinary  check-reins,  and  connected 
with  the  saddle-hook.  To  make  this  check  more  effective, 
a  small  strap  should  pass  from  one  ring  of  the  bit  to  the 
other,  across  over  the  nose,  and  be  just  tight  enough  to 
keep  the  bit  in  place.  With  head  well  checked  up,  which 
this  form  of  overdraw  enables,  the  horse  will  drive,  as  de- 


To  prevent  turning  round. 

sired,  freely.  The  four-ring  bit  will  sometimes  work  well 
in  this  habit.  There  are  also  forms  of  bit  in  use  that  get 
the  desired  purchase  sideways  upon  the  jaw,  that  work 
well. 

WILL  NOT  BACK. 

Put  on  the  harness  with  breaking-bit  on  bridle.  Pass 
the  reins  back  through  the  shaft-bearers.  Get  behind  the 
horse,  holding  the  reins  firmly  in  the  hands.  Now  give  a 
sharp,  raking  pull  back,  and  repeat  slowly  until  the  horse 
will  back  freely.  If  a  colt  is  sulky  and  stubborn,  and 
warms  up  much  before  you  make  your  point,  simply  let 
him  rest  until  cool,  when  you  can  usually  make  your  point 
easily.  The  breaking-bit  excels  all  other  means  for  mak- 
ing a  horse  back.  Be  careful  not  to  do  too  much,  as  the 


PULLING   ON   THE   HALTER.  99 

mouth  once  made  tender,  and  the  horse  made  to  back  too 
freely,  you  do  a  serious  mischief  it  is  not  easy  to  remedy. 
Taking  a  little  extra  time,  and  working  carefully  enables 
you  to  determine  with  more  accuracy  just  how  much  to  do. 
A  colt  that  will  act  decidedly  stubborn,  if  forced  to  yield 
while  warm,  will  be  likely  next  day  to  have  the  mouth  too 
tender.  The  best  way,  in  training  the  colt,  is  to  work  him 
up  a  little.  Stop,  even  though  the  colt  will  not  back.  Next 
day  the  mouth  will  be  sensitive,  and  will  back  easily  and 
just  as  freely  as  desired,  without  abuse  or  danger  of  spoil- 
ing the  mouth. 

PULLING  ON  THE  HALTER. 

If  a  green  colt  is  tied  by  the  head  to  a  post,  and  if  the 
halter  is  a  rope,  one  that  draws  tightly  across  the  nose,  — 
when  pulled  upon,  the  colt  will  be  almost  sure  to  pull  back 


Pulling  on  the  halter. 


the  moment  pressure  is  felt  upon  the  head.  Should  the 
halter  give  way  to  the  strain,  the  colt  will  try  with  great  per- 
sistence to  pull  when  so  hitched  afterwards.  Try  to  pull  a 
colt  ahead  before  being  broken  to  lead,  and  he  will  naturally 
run  back,  refusing  to  lead.  This  should  indicate  that  a  colt 
should  not  be  hitched  by  the  head  with  any  kind  of  a  halter, 
and  given  a  chance  to  learn  to  pull.  There  is  great  danger, 
in  the  first  place,  of  seriously  injuring  the  colt  by  pulling,  as 
he  is  likely  to  do,  upon  his  head.  Secondly,  if  the  halter 
gives,  the  habit  of  halter-pulling  is  established.  The  colt 


100  PULLING   ON    THE    HALTER. 

should  never  be  hitched  with  a  rough  rope  halter ;  for  when 
pulled  upon,  it  hurts,  and  this  hurting  frightens,  and  makes  a 
horse  pull  the  harder.  If  at  first  a  rope  was  drawn  across 
the  stall,  so  as  to  come  against  the  hind  parts  when  the  colt 
would  try  to  go  back,  leaving  the  halter  so  long,  when  tied, 
that  but  little  if  any  strain  could  come  upon  it  before  the 
rope  across  the  stall  would  be  felt,  in  a  short  time  the  horse 
would  become  accustomed  to  being  hitched,  and  stand  gen- 
tly without  trouble.  By  the  following  plan  you  can  hitch  a 
colt  with  entire  safety,  and  cannot  cause  harm,  though  hitched 
by  the  head. 

Provide  yourself  with  a  half-inch  cord,  of  good  hemp 
material  if  you  can  get  it,  about  twenty-six  feet  in  length. 
Double  it,  and  put  the  centre  under  the  tail,  like  a  crupper ; 
bring  forward  over  the  back,  twisting  both  around  each  other 
two  or  three  times ;  draw  forward  around  the  neck  in  front 
of  the  shoulders  into  a  knot ;  now  pass  both  cords  forward 
through  the  ring  in  the  manger  or  post ;  rein  back,  and  tie 
into  the  halter,  back  of  the  jaw.  If  the  horse  now  pulls,  it  is 
true  he  is  tied  by  the  head ;  but  he  disables  and  disconcerts 
himself  by  pulling  directly  against  the  hind  parts,  which  not 
only  disables  him  so  that  he  cannot  pull,  but  makes  him  on 
the  instant  go  ahead.  Be  sure  there  is  no  possibility  of  any 
thing  giving  way  or  breaking ;  for  if,  when  the  horse  pulls, 
which  he  may  do  at  first  with  a  sort  of  lunge,  should  he  suc- 
ceed in  breaking  loose,  you  are  giving  yourself  away.  This 
you  must,  at  all  hazards,  guard  against.  If  a  colt,  all  you 
need  to  do  is  to  hitch  this  way  for  a  few  times ;  if  a  bad  hal- 
ter-puller, you  must  do  more.  Provide  yourself  with  a  good 
bow-whip,  and  the  instant  the  horse  sets  back  to  pull,  put 
the  whip  into  his  nose  for  all  you  are  worth  until  he  comes 
ahead.  You  need  not  be  afraid  of  hurting ;  so  long  as  there 
is  the  least  inclination  to  pull,  punish  keenly.  No  matter 
how  well  a  horse  behaves,  the  best  course  is  to  hitch  so  for  a 
few  days.  Hitch  first  where  the  horse  pulls  the  hardest.  Of 
course  you  cannot  do  any  thing,  with  a  whip  while  hitched  in 
a  stall,  and  must  get  as  good  substitute  as  you  can.  The 
main  point  is  to  force  the  horse  out  of  the  habit  on  the  in- 
stant. Every  precaution  must  be  taken  against  breaking  loose. 
Leave  nothing  to  chance  that  will  possibly  cause  this.  Running 
the  rope  through  a  small  ring,  or  a  square-edged  staple,  or  a 


PULLING   ON    THE    BRIDLE.  101 

weak  manger,  or  the  rope  being  of  bad  material,  and  weak, 
—  all  these  little  matters  must  be  looked  at  carefully,  and 
every  possible  defect  remedied  before  the  trial  is  made. 
Again,  see  that  you  have  a  whip  that  is  not  too  long  and 
limber  at  the  end  :  it  should  be  rather  short,  of  good  buck- 
skin, that  you  can  hit  with  within  an  inch  of  any  point  you 
desire.  The  intense  keenness  of  the  shock  of  pain  you  are 
able  to  produce  at  the  first  onset  of  pulling,  is  really  the  key 
of  success  here.  One  lesson  will  break  ordinary  horses  of 
this  habit ;  but  if  the  horse  is  bad,  and  at  all  doubtful,  be  as 
thorough  as  you  can,  and  hitch  for  a  few  days  as  above. 

PUT.LINQ   ON   THE    BRIDLE. 

See  that  the  head  part  of  the  bridle  is  made  very  strong ; 
provide  yourself  with  a  small  but  strong  cord,  which  may  be 
doubled,  or  a  strap,  if  sufficiently  strong,  will  do.  Have,  if 
you  can,  a  long  but  sharp  snaffle-bit  in  the  bridle.  Pass  the 
end  of  the  rope  or  strap  through  the  rein-ring  of  the  bit, 
across  back  of  the  jaw,  and  attach  to  the  off  one  of  the  bit ; 
now,  when  the  horse  pulls,  the  bit  is  doubled  across  the  jaw, 
which  hurts  intensely,  and  the  horse  will  soon  stand  without 
attempting  to  pull ;  or  you  can  pass  the  rope  or  strap  through 
the  near  ring  of  the  bit,  up  over  the  head,  right  up  near  the 
bridle,  down  on  the  opposite  side,  through  the  ring  of  the  bit, 
and  tie  or  buckle  a  little  below  the  nose,  or  near  the  near 
ring,  or  knot  .both  together  at  this  point,  and  hitch  both  as 
with  a  halter. 


BITING  AND  STRIKING. 


THERE  are  many  habits,  which,  to  break  up  successfully, 
requires  not  only  good  judgment,  but  a  cool  determination. 
Biting  and  striking  are  among  the  most  dangerous,  for  the 
least  want  of  watchfulness  will  often  encourage  the  horse 
to  become  aggressive.  Hence  the  necessity  of  being  able 
to  see  the  intention  at  a  glance,  and  disconcert  the  mind 
from  its  purpose  before  being  fully  developed.  Biters  and 
strikers  are  usually  stallions,  which  are  both  cautious  and 
courageous.  They  are  of  two  classes :  those  that  are 
merely  irritable,  and  liable  to  bite  when  not  watched,  and 
those  that  cannot  be  approached  or  handled  at  all  with 
safety.  If  the  subject  belongs  to  the  first  class,  either  method 
of  subjection,  and  use  of  the  war-bridle  or  double-draw,  will 
give  perfect  control  in  a  few  minutes ;  if  the  second,  and  he  is 
a  stallion,  you  have  a  horse  that  is  possibly  of  the  most  dan- 
gerous character,  —  one  that,  to  make  a  single  mistake  in  his 
management,  would  be  fatal.  The  Hettrick  horse  of  New 
York,  referred  to  on  page  1 7,  was  a  remarkable  subject  of 
this  character :  though  a  gelding,  he  was  so  vicious  that  he 
would  bite,  strike,  or  kick  at  any  one  as  soon  as  within  his 
reach.  It  was  entirely  impossible,  by  the  greatest  delicacy 
of  management,  to  touch  him  with  the  tip  of  the  finger,  with- 
out serious  injury.  The  Hillman  horse  of  Portland,  referred 
to  on  page  1 8,  was  another  remarkable  case,  —  a  stallion  as 
cunning  and  treacherous  as  a  vicious  bull-dog.  The  Wilkins 
horse,  handled  by  me  as  a  special  test  trial  before  Mr.  Rob- 
ert Bonner,  in  his  stable  in  New  York  City,  was  a  striker  and 
kicker  of  the  most  dangerous  character.  I  was  bound  to 
win  Mr.  Bonner,  and  Mr.  Bonner  would  have  nothing  short 
of  the  successful  control  of  horses  he  knew  all  others  failed 
to  break.  The  Wilkins  horse  was  selected  as  the  worst 
known  in  the  city.  A  very  little  abuse  will  spoil  a  certain 

102 


BITING   AND   STRIKING.  103 

class  of  stallions  very  quickly,  no  matter  how  gentle  previ- 
ously ;  and,  once  started,  they  are  most  fearful.  In  approach- 
ing afterwards,  speak  sharply  "  get  round,"  or  any  signal  that 
will  attract  attention.  Let  the  left  hand  be  put  on  the  shoul- 
der (near  side) ,  glide  it  up  the  neck  to  the  head,  then  down 
to  the  nose-piece  of  the  halter.  If  there  is  an  attempt  to 
bite  now,  the  hand  is  carried  up  before  the  head  and  held 
out  of  reach,  while  you  can  keep  the  head  from  you  with 
greatest  ease. 

An  old  horse  subject  to  this  habit  must  be  watched  closely. 
So  long  as  there  is  disposition  to  bite,  the  horse  must  not  be 
regarded  safe.  Carelessness  and  timidity,  especially  if  sub- 
jected to  harsh  treatment,  may  be  regarded  as  "the  primary 
cause.  I  have  known  horses  to  become  inveterate  biters  by 
being  whipped  once  or  twice. 

A  gentleman  informed  me  lately  that  a  horse  he  formerly 
owned  became  terribly  vicious  by  being  struck  once  with  a 
whip  in  the  stall.  He  was,  up  to  that  time,  as  gentle  as  any 
horse  could  be.  Mr.  Roberts's  horse,  a  notice  of  which  I 
give  from  the  "  Utica  Herald,"  had  been  of  a  very  docile 
character.  A  rough,  drunken  groom,  who  was  employed  to 
take  care  of  him,  by  irritating  and  abusing  the  horse  got 
him  vicious.  Mr.  Roberts  now  took  him  in  hand.  One  day, 
while  in  harness,  the  horse  acted  a  little  stubborn  and  vicious. 
Mr.  Roberts  struck  him  with  the  whip,  when  instantly  the 
horse  struck  and  bit  him,  knocking  him  senseless  under  his 
feet,  and  would  have  killed  him  if  not  driven  off  by  two 
men,  who  happened  at  the  time  to  be  close  by.  He  had  run  in 
his  stall  seven  months,  and  would  jump  at  any  one  with  the 
ferocity  of  a  desperate  dog.  As  was  stated,  I  took  him  in 
hand  and  made  him  gentle  in  less  than  twenty  minutes,  and 
he  remained  of  a  good  character  aftenvards.  If  the  horse 
is  young  and  thoroughly  treated,  there  will  be  but  little 
trouble  in  reforming  him.  If  old  and  bad,  there  is  no  hope 
of  success,  unless  very  carefully  handled.  If  the  horse  is 
dangerous  and  bad,  subject  him  to  first,  second,  or  third 
treatment.  Either  may  do  ;  but  unless  you  are  thorough,  and 
make  complete  success,  your  effort  will  be  likely  to  prove  a 
failure.  The  main  point  is  to  work  quick  and  thorough, 
making  your  point.  If  a  stallion,  you  must  always  be  on 
your  guard.  Appeal  to  the  better  nature,  and  win  his  confi- 


104  BITING  AND   STRIKING. 

dence  as  fully  as  you  can  by  kind  treatment.  The  war-bridle 
will  have  no  permanent  effect :  you  must  go  back  to  first  prin- 
ciples, and  make  as  telling  an  impression  as  you  can ;  then 
follow  up  with  simple  means,  an  example  of  which  I  will 
refer  to  here.  Years  ago  I  bought  a  fine  Gifford  Morgan 
horse  in  Gowanda,  N.Y.  This  horse  was  exceptionally 
clever,  never  offering  to  nip  or  bite ;  he  was  of  a  sorrel  color, 
medium-sized,  spirited,  nine  years  old ;  the  eyes  were  large, 
with  a  trace  of  brown  color;  the  eyelids  with  white 
enough  to  show  great  temper;  the  forehead  was  wide, 
but  not  full.  I  trained  this  horse  to  drive  without  reins,  to 
do  which  requires  the  severe  use  of  the  whip,  and  a  great 
deal  of  it ;  yet,  by  careful  treatment  afterwards,  I  succeeded 
in  training  him  without  exciting  his  ill-will :  it  was  a  nice  feat 
of  training,  but  I  did  it  successfully.  In  consequence  of 
ill-health,  I  sold  the  horse  with  others  in  Bath,  N.Y.,  to  Fred 
Arned,  who  was  a  hotel-keeper,  and  liable  at  times  to  be  influ- 
enced by  liquor,  who  without  any  provocation  whipped  the 
horse  in  his  stall.  Happening  nepr  at  the  time,  I  warned 
the  man  he  must  not  on  any  account  repeat  it ;  that  to  do  so 
would  make  the  horse  so  desperately  vicious  that  he  would 
be  worthless  to  him ;  but  to  go  at  once  and  get  some  good 
apples  and  give  them  to  him,  thus  winning  him  out  of  the  ex- 
citement. The  man  was  stubborn,  and  would  not  do  it. 
In  a  few  days  the  whipping  was  repeated ;  and  the  conse- 
quence was,  afterwards,  that  horse  would  kill  any  one  if  he 
could  who  would  go  near  him :  he  would  jump  for  a  man, 
and  grate  his  teeth  with  desperation.  Now  Arned  came  to 
me  in  humility,  saying  the  horse  was  truly  ruined,  and  that 
he  would  do  any  thing  I  would  require,  if  I  would  break  the 
horse  for  him.  It  was  with  the  greatest  difficulty  that  I  was 
able  to  get  the  horse  out  of  his  stall.  A  more  desperate 
brute  I  never  saw.  His  eyes  were  like  coals  of  fire.  I  sub- 
jected rapidly  to  the  first  and  second  treatments,  and  suc- 
ceeded in  about  thirty  minutes  in  making  him  submit  to  me 
completely.  He  now  seemed  to  know  me,  and  submitted  to 
my  control  as  gently  as  ever.  I  led  the  horse  to  his  stall, 
gave  him  apples,  and  talked  to  him,  caressing  him  for  fully 
twenty  minutes,  leaving  him  calm  and  gentle.  I  now  em- 
ployed a  patient  and  careful  man  to  take  charge  of  the 
horse,  directed  him  to  get  a  peck  of  good  apples,  go  into  his 


BITING  AND  STRIKING.  105 

stall,  occasionally  give  an  apple,  and  treat  him  with  the  utmost 
kindness  ;  at  the  same  time  I  cautioned  the  owner  on  no  ac- 
count must  he  show  himself  to  the  horse  or  go  near  him  until 
I  permitted  it,  or  was  present.  The  horse  continued  now  per- 
fectly gentle,  and  in  two  weeks  I  thought  it  best  to  let  him  see 
Arned :  the  horse  knew  him  instantly,  and  was  immediately 
roused  with  anger,  though  the  man  stood  at  the  door  of  the 
stall.  The  horse  proved  gentle  to  any  one  but  his  owner  :  he 
could  never  feel  safe  near  him.  Four  years  afterward,  when  I 
revisited  that  part  of  the  country,  I  found  the  horse  owned 
in  Merchantsville,  in  the  same  county.  The  owner  could 
take  him  out  by  the  halter  and  play  with  him ;  his  wife  could 
drive  and  handle  him  with  perfect  safety  as  a  family  horse. 
I  took  him  into  the  street,  and  played  with  him  as  of  old,  and 
he  knew  me  perfectly.  The  owner  told  me  he  was  all  right 
in  every  way ;  but,  said  he,  "  Let  him  see  a  bald-headed  man 
that  is  drunk,  and  he  will  kill  him  if  he  can.  His  whole 
nature  will  be  excited  with  madness,  yet  he  is  perfectly  gentle 
for  others  to  handle  or  use."  This  horse  was  a  cribber  when 
I  bought  him,  and  was  broken  completely  of  this  habit  by 
the  treatment  given  in  this  book. 

There  is  one  point  I  would  call  your  attention  to  here. 
If  a  stallion  of  intelligence,  and  of  some  age,  or  even 
a  grown  colt  that  had  been  fooled  with  much,  you  must 
have  your  wits  about  you,  when  near  him  :  no  matter  how 
pleasant  he  looks,  you '  must  never  approach  or  go  near 
him  except  when  your  eyes  are  upon  his ;  and,  if  you  have 
any  nerve  or  will-power,  show  it  all  in  your  expression 
and  actions.  You  must  never,  on  any  account,  when  near 
a  stallion's  head,  turn  your  back  to  him.  A  horse  of  this 
character,  that  is  quite  manageable  and  considered  safe,  is 
even  then  liable  to  bite  sharply,  and  do  what  you  are  not  to 
expect  from  a  horse  that  has  not  learned  his  power.  If  the 
horse  is  of  a  sulky,  stubborn  nature,  heavy  eyelids,  and 
much  white  in  the  eye,  and  long  from  eyes  to  ears,  he  will 
not  give  any  warning  of  his  intention.  He  will  stand 
sullen,  with  ears  a  little  back,  and  eyes  partly  closed. 
The  Hillman  horse,  referred  to,  was  of  this  type.  He 
would  not  make  a  move  until  within  reach,  and  then  he 
would  spring  upon  a  man  like  a  bull-dog.  A  horse  with 
large  clear  eyes,  full  forehead,  and  pointed  ears  will  show 


106  BITING   AND   STRIKING. 

his  intentions  clearly,  and  will  always  warn  you  off  with 
energy.  This  horse  is  really  the  least  dangerous,  as  a 
barking  dog  makes  most  fuss  in  showing  himself.  When 
approaching  a  kicking,  biting  horse  in  the  stall,  don't  show 
the  least  want  of  confidence  in  yourself,  or  exhibit  the 
least  indication  of  fear,  while  you  should  not  be  fool- 
hardy. You  must  here,  at  all  -times,  show  decided  nerve 
and  courage.  As  you  get  near  the  stall,  if  possible, 
catch  the  horse's  eye,  and  say,  "Get  around,  sir,"  in  a 
commanding  manner :  stand  still,  looking  firmly  into  the 
eye  ;  for  he  is  measuring  you,  and  now  is  the  critical 
moment  of  his  learning  what  you  are.  If  you  have  will 
and  nerve  in  you,  concentrate  it  now  in  your  looks  and 
actions,  as  if  you  would  crush  him.  Say,  "  Get  around, 
sir,"  getting  as  near  as  you  can,  but  not  near  enough  to 
get  kicked.  If  the  horse  moves  around,  and  looks  from 
you,  you  can,  if  careful,  approach  him  safely.  As  you  get 
to  the  end  of  the  stall,  with  your  eyes  still  upon  him, 
make  a  quick,  gliding  spring  to  the  shoulder,  and  without 
waiting  for  him  to  recover  himself,  run  the  hand  up  the 
neck  to  the  head  and  down  to  the  nose-piece  of  the  halter 
or  bit,  and  grasp  it  firmly.  You  are  now  safe.  But  as  you 
value  your  life,  be  gentle  and  firm  in  your  actions.  When 
you  wish  to  go  out,  pull  the  head  after  you  as  far  as  you 
can,  and  the  instant  you  let  go,  glide  out  beyond  reach. 
If  the  horse  will  not  move,  and  looks  at  you  sullenly,  don't 
you  chance  going  near  him  :  there  is  too  much  danger. 
He  would  crush  you  before  you  could  do  any  thing  to 
prevent.  I  will  not  attempt  to  dictate  the  course  you  are 
to  pursue  to  get  to  him :  too  much  depends  upon  circum- 
stances, and  I  do  not  wish  to  indulge  in  too  many  details. 
You  must  use  your  judgment,  but  take  no  chances  you 
can  with  a  little  time  and  care  avoid.  Subject  the  horse 
to  either  or  all  modes  of  direct  subjection.  It  is  here  that 
the  value  of  skill  is  shown  by  quick,  keen,  smooth  work, 
that  leaves  nothing  undone,  yet,  without  apparently  doing 
much,  brings  about  a  complete  change  in  the  animal's 
character.  Many  and  many  a  time,  with  a  prejudiced  class 
behind  me,  who  would  seem  glad  of  my  defeat,  I  have 
taken  almost  desperate  chances,  and  barely  succeeded. 
My  advice  is,  do  not  be  foolhardy.  Let  your  courage  be 


JUMPING   OUT   OF   SHAFTS  WHEN    UNHITCHED.          107 


shown  by  the  prudence  of  skill  that  brings  sure  success. 
No  matter  how  well  the  horse  acts,  you  must  go  around 
and  handle  him  as  if  expecting  every  instant  that  he 
would  go  for  you.  The  moment  he  submits  to  your  con- 
trol, treat  him  with  the  utmost  kindness,  and  follow  up  this 
policy,  but  be  ever  ready  to  check  sharply  any  inclination 
to  viciousness.  An  old  horse,  that  is  in  the  habit  of  biting 
while  standing  in  the  street,  should  be  muzzled.  No 
matter  how  well  he  may  act,  do  not  trust  him  :  it  is  the 
safest  course. 

JUMPING  OUT  OP  SHAFTS  WHEN  UNHITCHED. 

This  is  easily  overcome.  Put  on  the  breaking-bit,  and 
the  instant  the  horse  attempts  to  jump  out,  set  him  back 
sharply  a  few  times.  I  frequently  break  horses  of  this 
habit,  that  are  considered  quite  bad,  in  five  or  ten  minutes, 
so  that  they  will  stand  quietly  to  be  hitched  and  unhitched 
as  desired.  If,  however,  the  horse  is  decidedly  bad,  sub- 
ject to  second  course  of  subjection,  and  control,  by  the  bit, 
to  stand  as  desired,  then  hitch  and  unhitch  until  success- 
ful. It  is  prudent,  in  bad  cases,  to  repeat  the  lesson  once 
or  twice. 

PULLINQ  ON   THE   BIT. 

This  is  sometimes  a  very  annoying  habit,  though  in  most 
cases  it  is  eas-  4 

ily  managed. 
If  a  horse  has 
a  dull,  strong 
mouth,  put  in 
the  breaking- 
bit,  and  give  a 
sharp  lesson 
with  it.  If  the 
horse  is  strong 
and  reckless, 
use  it  to  drive 
a  few  days, and 
the  mouth  will 
be  as  light  and  ^ 

troikas0  Cyou  (N°-10 

could  desire.     If  a  nervous-tempered  horse,  of  a  naturally 


108  PULLING   ON    THE    BIT. 

gentle  and  moderate  disposition,  but  when  warmed  up  aad 
sweaty  pulls  hard,  try,  first,  as  the  simplest  treatment, 
winding  the  bit  with  flannel  or  cloth.  This  will  work 
nicely  on  some  horses  of  finje  organization  ;  try  next  a 
rubber  bit.  If  these  fail,  try  next  the  four-ring  bit,  which 
has  a  peculiar  effect  in  the  control  of  this  habit :  it  works 
finely  on  these  nervous-tempered,  excitable  pullers. 

Take  an  ordinary  snaffle-bit,  or  have  a  bit  made  by  a 

smith,  as  in  cut  No.  2. 
Bend  one  of  the  rings 
into  the  form  of  a  link, 
slip  over  it  two  rings 
about  an  inch  and  a 

half  each  in  diameter,  straighten  back  the  ring  to  its  origi- 
nal form,  and  you  have  a  common  snaffle-bit,  with  two 
small  rings  on  the  mouth-piece.  Buckle  into  a  common 
bridle.  Get  made  next  two  straps, — one  two  feet  in  length 
and  three-quarters  of  an  inch  wide,  made  like  a  hame- 
strap ;  the  other  about  three  feet  in  length,  narrower  and 
lighter.  Run  the  short  strap  through  both  rings,  and 
buckle  double,  in  the  form  of  a  nose-piece,  buckling  just 
long  enough  to  fit  around  the  nose  closely.  Bring  the 
long  strap  around  the  short  one  at  the  centre,  pass  up  and 
through  a  little  loop  left  in  the  bridle,  between  the  ears 
and  buckle,  just  short  enough  to  let  the  nose-piece  come 
straight  across  the  nose.  It  will  now  be  found,  by  stand- 
ing in  front  of  the  horse,  putting  both  thumbs  through  the 
rings,  and  giving  a  little  jerk  down  and  backwards,  that 
the  head  will  be  thrown  up  and  back  easily.  The  strap 
across  the  nose  will  act  as  a  fulcrum,  when  the  rings  on 
the  end  of  the  bit  are  pulled  upon,  the  two  inside  rings 
slide  towards  the  centre,  forcing  the  joint  upwards  against 
the  roof  of  the  mouth,  which  causes  so  much  pain,  that 
the  horse  will  not  try  to  resist,  after  being  pulled  upon  a 
few  times.  •  It  overcomes  pulling  on  one  rein,  or  throwing 
the  nose  upon  the  breast.  The  effect  of  this  bit  on  some 
horses  is  very  great.  It  does  not  cut  or  make  the  mouth 
sore,  and  is  valuable  on  horses  that  pull  hard  when 
warmed  up. 

This  four-ring  bit  has  been  pushed  by  many  parties,  as 
a  great  feature  for  running  away,  kicking,  &c.,  and  claimed 


CRIBBING.  109 

to  be  patented.  Instead  of  rings,  straps  of  iron,  fitted  to 
slide  on  the  bit  and  attach  the 
strap  to,  were  used  and  patented. 
These  straps,  pressing  upon  the 
cheeks,  made  them  sore,  and  con- 
sequently objectionable  ;  instead 
of  a  strap  across  the  nose,  which 
is  indispensable  to  make  the  con- 
trol of  the  bit  effective,  an  over- 
draw check  was  used  upon  the 
straps,  passing  up  from  the  bit 
over  the  head,  a  slide  was  placed, 
and  by  this  means  the  fulcrum  of 
purchase  across  the  nose  became 
weak  and  imperfect,  because  this 
slide,  slipping  back  in  the  least, 
which  it  was  liable  to  do,  relaxed 
the  draw  across  the  nose,  and 
thus  destroyed  the  end  to  be  at- 
tained by  its  compression  against  Cut  o£  bit't^ahorse. be  put  °n 
the  roof  of  the  mouth.  I  give  it 

as  it  should  be  used ;  it  is  especially  adapted  for  nervous- 
tempered  pullers,  and  will  seem  to  be  just  the  thing  on  some 
horses  for  driving,  while  on  others  it  may  prove  a  failure. 

CKIBBINGK 

I  treat  cribbing  successfully  as  a  habit.  There  may  be 
constitutionally  predisposing;  causes  but  it  is  certain, 
whatever  the  pretensions  of  any  one,  I  have  never  been 
given  any  proof  of  ability  to  break  up  the  habit  with  medi- 
cine. Horses  will  not  crib  on  any  thing  that  is  lower  than 
the  knees.  Hence  the  treatment  of  tearing  away  the 
manger,  and  feeding  on  the  floor,  or  in  a  basket.  Some- 
times sawing  between  the  teeth  will  stop  the  habit,  by 
making  the  teeth  sore,  but  is  not  worthy  of  serious  con- 
sideration. 

There  is  but  one  practical  plan  of  breaking  up  this 
habit,  and  the  success  of  that  will  depend  very  much 
upon  the  skill  displayed  in  making  the  adjustment. 

The  act  of  cribbing  causes  great  contraction  of  the 
muscles  of  the  neck ;  and  the  larynx,  in  consequence,  is 


110  CRIBBING. 

forced  down  much  beyond  its  natural  position.  This,  then, 
is  the  key,  through  which  we  can  reach  and  control  the 
habit  successfully.  Have  the  throat-latch  of  the  halter 
hang  on  a  line  with  the  top  of  the  head  to  the  junction 
of  the  neck  with  the  head.  Take  a  piece  of  strap  (good 
firm  leather),  about  five  inches  in  length,  and  as  wide  as 
the  throat-latch.  Drive  ten-ounce  tacks  in  a  row  along 
the  centre  of  this  strap,  half  an  inch  apart.  File  the 
points  sharp,  and  of  equal  length.  Lay  this  strap  on  the 
inside  of  the  throat-latch  where  it  crosses  the  larynx,  wind 
a  piece  of  waxed  thread  around  both,  at  the  centre  and 
ends  of  the  short  strap.  Buckle  the  throat-latch  just  long 
enough,  so  that  it  will  not  touch  the  neck  when  eating  or 
drinking,  but  will  press  sharply  at  the  least  attempt  to 
crib.  The  result  is,  that  at  every  attempt  to  crib,  the 
tacks  will  stick  into  the  neck,  which  will  hurt  and  discon- 
cert the  horse  from  doing  so. 

The  point  of  success  will  depend  upon  the  perfection 
and  care  with  which  this  is  kept  adjusted.  If  there  is 
large  muscular  development  on  the  neck,  or  thick-necked, 
the  strap  must  be  buckled  shorter  than  when  the  neck  is 
well  cut  out,  as  it  is  termed.  Make  the  reproof  severe  at 
first.  Then  keep  it  so  as  to  touch  sharply  when  a  repeti- 
tion is  attempted.  If  the  throat-latch  is  not  on  a  line  with 
the  top  of  the  head,  the  tacks  will  rest  against  and  cut  the 
jaw,  a  little  below  the  junction  of  the  head  with  the  neck. 
If  this  is  kept  on  a  few  days  or  weeks,  and  then  put  on 
carelessly,  or  taken  off,  there  is  likely  to  be  a  failure ;  for 
if  the  horse  finds  he  can  crib  once  after  this  is  put  on, 
without  hurting  himself,  he  will  be  encouraged  to  repeat 
the  effort,  and  will  punish  himself  severely  to  do  so.  But 
if  punished  at  first,  and  this  kept  where  it  will  hurt  keenly 
at  the  least  attempt  to  crib,  and  left  on  a  few  weeks,  you 
ought  to  be  successful.  It  will  not  do  to  buckle  a  strap 
around  the  neck.  The  adjustment  must  be  made  to  the 
strap  of  the  halter,  and  the  halter  must  fit  nicely  to  the 
head.  To  do  this,  it  must  be  made  like  a  bridle,  with 
brow-piece,  so  that  it  will  not  shift  or  move  on  the  head. 
I  have  no  trouble  now  with  the  habit.  A  common  boy 
broke  five  in  succession,  a  few  years  ago  :  he  became 
careless  and  failed  on  the  sixth.  There  is,  once  in  a  while, 


GETTING  CAST  IN  STALL.  Ill 

an  old  horse,  of  determined  character,  that  will  crib  in 
defiance  of  this  or  any  thing  else.  Such  cases  are,  however, 
fortunately  rare.  A  young,  nervous-tempered  horse  will 
yield  readily  to  this  treatment ;  but  few  horses  will  at- 
tempt to  crib  while  wearing  a  muzzle. 

GETTING-  CAST   IN   STALL. 

Drive  a  staple  into  a  beam  or  the  floor  directly  over 
the  horse's  head,  as  he  stands  in  the  stall,  to  which  attach 
a  strap  or  piece  of  small  rope,  of  sufficient  length  to 
extend  within  fifteen  inches  of  the  floor.  Before  retiring 
for  the  night,  attach  the  other  end  of  the  cord  or  strap  to 
the  top  of  the  halter,  making  it  just  long  enough  to  allow 
the  horse  to  put  his  nose  -to  the  floor.  Being  now  unable 
to  get  the  top  of  his  head  to  the  floor,  he  is  prevented 
from  rolling.  By  giving  the  horse  a  large  stall,  he  will 
rarely  get  cast,  and  this  is  really  most  practical. 

PUTTING  THE  TONGUE  OUT  OF  THE  MOUTH. 

If  the  tongue  is  put  out  over  the  bit,  the  object  is  to  pre- 
vent this,  and 
the  habit  will 
cease.  To  do 
this,  h2ve  fit- 
ted a  piece  of 
thin  sheet- 
iron,  about 
two  and  a  half 
inches  wide 
and  five  inch- 
es long,  with 
theendsmade 
rounding,  and 
theedgesfiled 

smooth.  Drill  two  small  holes,  about  half  an  inch  apart, 
near  each  edge,  at  the  centre.  Fasten  it  through  these 
holes,  on  top  of  the  bit,  with  a  piece  of  small  annealed  wire. 
Shorten  the  cheek  pieces  of  the  bridle,  so  that  the  bit  is 
drawn  well  up  in  the  mouth.  This  piece  of  iron  is  now  over 
the  tongue,  making  it  impossible  for  the  horse  to  get  the 
tongue  over  the  bit.  A  simple  and  sure  way  of  doing  this  is 


112         PUTTING  THE   TONGUE   OUT   OF    THE   MOUTH. 


to  have  the  smith  make  a  mouth-piece,  as  represented  in  the 
cut  below,  which  is  seen  to  be  bent  up,  and  comes  so  high  in 
the  mouth  that  the  horse  cannot  get  the  tongue  over :  this 
works  perfectly  and  is  not  inconvenient  to  drive  with.  It 

should  be  bent 
up  at  least  2! 
to  3  inches  and 
come  well  out 
to  the  cheek- 
pieces  and  filed 
smoothly  to 
prevent  cut- 
ting or  chafing 
the  mouth. 
The  tongue  is 
sometimes,  but 
not  often,  put 

out  under  the  bit.  The  following  treatment  will  work  well  : 
Get  three  middling  sized  bullets,  and  hammer  them  out  to 
about  an  inch  and  a  half  in  length.  Drill  a  little  hole 
through  the  end  of  each.  Tie  one  to  the  centre  of  the  bit 
by  a  little  piece  of  wire  through  the  joint.  Attach  the  others 
to  the  bit  about  an  inch  from  the  centre  (one  on  each  side), 
so  as  to  play 
loosely.  (See 
cut.) 

When  this 
bit  is  now  in 
the  mouth, 
these  extra 
arrangements 
will  so  d  i  s- 
concert  the 
horse  that  in 
his  struggles 
to  get  them 
out  of  the  way, 

he  will  forget  to  put  the  tongue  out.  The  next  best  way 
is  to  buckle  a  strap  around  the  nose  so  that  the  mouth  can- 
not be  opened.  This,  of  course,  prevents  the  tongue  being 
put  out ;  and,  kept  in  a  few  days  successfully,  the  habit  of  do- 
ing so  will  be  completely  broken  up. 


PAWING    IN    THE    STALL.  113 

PAWING  IN   THE   STALL. 

Get  a  piece  of  trace-chain,  about  ten  inches  in  length ; 
run  a  short  strap  through  one  of  the  end  links,  and  buckle  it 
around  the  foot  above  the  fetlock ;  or  a  piece  of  light  chain 
can  be  fastened  to  a  small  block,  and  attached  to  the  foot  in 
the  same  manner.  When  the  horse  attempts  to  paw,  the  clog 
or  chain  rattles  against  th  efoot,  and  prevents  a  repetition 
of  the  practice  ;  or  muffle  the  foot  with  a  double  thickness  of 
blanket,  the  horse  will  not  paw,  and  if  he  does  will  not  make 
a  noise. 

KICKING  THE   STALL. 

The  same  treatment  used  for  preventing  pawing  may  be 
used ;  or  a  piece  of  plank  may  be  attached  across  the  stall 
over  the  hips  about  an  inch  higher  than  the  hips.  At  each 
effort  to  kick  now,  the  hind  part  will  strike  this  plank,  and 
prevent  ability  to  do  so.  If  the  kicking  is  with  one  foot 
against  the  side  of  stall,  attach  some  brush  to  the  side  of  the 
stall,  or  hang  it  down  loosely  over  the  part  kicked  at. 

If  you  have  a  valuable  horse  subject  to  this  habit,  give  him 
a  large  stall,  or  have  fitted  a  clog,  with  a  strap  or  chain  to  it, 
which  attach  to  the  leg  with  a  strap  buckled  around  it. 

KICKING   COWS. 

Put  on  the  war-bridle  (large  loop)  around  the  neck,  and 
pull  a  few  times,  right  and  left ;  then  attempt  to  milk.  At 
the  least  resistance,  punish  sharply,  repeating  as  may  be  ne- 
cessary until  the  cow  learns  to  stand  quietly,  and  becomes 
afraid  to  kick. 

Sometimes  the  teats  are  sore,  and  the  pain  caused  by  milk- 
ing is  very  severe. 

Take  Gonlard's  extract  2  oz.,  sulphate  zinc  2  oz.,  lard  2  oz., 
and  rub  upon-  the  parts  a  few  times.  This  is  a  favorite  rem- 
edy among  dairymen  for  sore  teats,  cake  in  the  bag,  &c. 
This  prescription  I  know  to  have  been  sold  for  fifteen  dol- 
lars, and  is  prized  by  dairymen  in  Northern  New  York,  where 
the  medicine  is  sold  as  a  specialty  for  their  use.  One  lesson 
will  usually  break  a  cow  or  heifer  of  kicking.  Make  your 
point  thorough  when  you  try  at  all,  and  you  will  succeed 
easily. 


114 


THE   WAR-BRIDLE. HOW   TO    MAKE    IT. 


The  war-bridle. 


THE  WAR-BRIDLE.  —  HOW  TO  MAKE  IT. 

First  get  a  cord  of  the  very  best  hemp  or  flax,  made  in  the 
very  best  manner,  twisted  hard,  about  three-eighths  to  half 
an  inch  in  diameter,  and  twenty-one  feet  in  length.  The 

smaller,  if  suf- 
ficiently strong 
so  as  not  to 
break,  the  bet- 
ter. Tie  each 
end  into  a  sin- 
gle hard  knot. 

I  will,  of  course,  here  give  but  the  simple  form  of  making 
and  using  it.      We  use  this  in  two  ways  under  the  simple 

head      Of    ^  •""  iui|-rrmil£"^m^i. ^^LBJl 

war-bridle; 
one  to  get 
purchase 
sideways ; 
the  other 
to  get  pow- 
er directly  ahead.  (See  cuts.)  To  make  the  large  loop 
form,  make  a  tie  about  twenty  inches  from  the  end,  more 

or  less,  according  to 

the  size  of  the  neck 

to  be  put  around. 

Pass  the  end  around 

theneckupon  which 

it  is  to  be  used,about 

twelve  to   fifteen 

inches  from  the 

head,  and  have  the 

tie  last  made  come 

just    short    enough  I 

that  when  the  end 

knot    is    passed 

through    it    and 

drawn   tight  it  will 

form  a  loop  that  will 

Large  loop.  fit  around  this   part       Sma11  lo°P' 

of  the  neck.     Now  pass  the  left  hand  back  between  the  neck 
and  cord,  catch  the  part  hanging  down,  pull  it  back  towards 


JUMPING  OVER  FENCES.  115 

the  mouth,  and  pass  over  the  lower  jaw,  drawing  tight  enough 
to  keep  it  in  place.  Catch  the  end  of  the  cord  now  in  your 
hand,  and  stand  opposite  the  shoulder ;  give  a  sharp,  quick 
pull  and  you  will  find  you  have  great  power  upon  the  head. 
This  form  should  only  be  used  sideways.  It  is  finely 
adapted  for  making  a  colt  follow  sideways ;  it  is  good  on  a 
stallion,  as  you  have  purchase  in  such  a  way  that  you  can 
keep  him  from  you  ;  it  is  very  useful  for  many  purposes ;  it 
will  break  a  cow  of  kicking,  while  milking,  in  a  few  minutes. 
Second  form  :  make  a  tie  about  ten  or  eleven  inches  from  the 
head.  Pass  the  end  knot  through  it,  and  draw  moderately 
tight :  you  want  the  loop  in  this  form  just  large  enough  to  pass 
over  the  lower  jaw  easily ;  it  should  not  be  at  all  tight.  Now 
pass  the  other  end  over  the  neck,  and  down  through  this  loop 
around  the  jaw,  draw  down,  bring  the  part  over  the  neck  up 
to  the  ears  :  now  stand  in  front  of  the  head,  a  little  sideways, 
about  six  or  eight  feet  away,  and  give  a  quick  but  strong  pull 
towards  you.  and  you  will  get  a  wonderful  power  upon  the 
head.  When  this  simple  means  is  used  skilfully,  its  effect  is 
wonderful.  There  is  a  great  sleight  in  using  it:  indeed, 
though  I  have  used  it  twenty  years,  I  feel  as  if  I  had  just 
learned  how  to  use  it  properly.  I  modify  its  application  in 
a  great  many  ways,  making  it  entirely  a  new  thing,  which  has 
been  shown  carefully  to  the  class.  The  war-bridle  is  adapted 
only  for  making  a  colt  or  horse  lead.  It  does  easily  here 
what  nothing  else  will ;  it  is  not  adapted  for  controlling  or 
breaking  bad,  vicious  horses ;  its  use  properly  comes  under 
the  head  of  minor  or  palliative  treatment.  The  cord  for  the 
war-bridle  I  have  is  made  expressly  for  my  use :  it  is  the 
only  cord  I  could  find  that  is  sufficiently  strong,  smooth,  and 
elastic;  it  will  stand  all  the  strain  that  a  man  can  subject  it  to. 

JUMPING  OVER  FENCES. 

Most  every  dairyman  knows  that  a  cow  or  ox  will  not 
attempt  to  jump  over  a  fence,  pull  it  down,  or  run,  while  a 
piece  of  board  is  placed  over  the  forehead,  attached  to  the 
horns  in  front  of  the  eyes ;  this  simple  means  will  usually 
work  well  upon  cattle,  but  will  not  do  upon  a  horse,  because 
it  gives  too  much  freedom  to  see  over  the  nose.  As  soon 
as  you  do  this,  he  will  be  so  disconcerted  that  he  will  not 
attempt  to  jump  or  meddle  with  a  fence,  and  but  rarely  will 


116 


THE    BODY    FETTERS. 


attempt  to  run  in  a  pasture.  This  we  accomplish  perfectly 
by  the  means  here  given,  which  is  cheap  and  easily  ad- 
justed. 

If  a  horse  or  mule,  put  on  a  halter  that  fits  well  to  the 
head,  —  a  five-ring  halter  is  best.  Next  find 
a  piece  of  thin  leather  (an  old  boot-leg  will 
do),  about  as  long  as  the  head,  and  from 
four  to  five  inches  wider  than  the  head  is 
at  the  eyes.  Form  it  same  as  in  cut,  with 
a  string  attached  at  each  corner.  Attach 
the  upper  corners  by  the  strings  to  the  hal- 
ter, where  the  brow-piece  is  attached  to 
the  cheek-piece.  Tie  the  cords  attached 
to  the  lower  corners  back  of  the  jaw  (being 
careful  to  leave  freedom  enough  for  the 
jaws  to  act  when  eating).  Let  the  ends 
now  pass  over  the  throat-latch,  and  make 
fast.  The  horse  is  simply  disabled  from 
The  jmnper^before  looking  ahead.  He  can  look  sidewise  and 
back,  but  cannot  look  ahead  or  over  the 
nose  forward,  which  will  disconcert  sufficiently  to  prevent 
the  animal  not  only  jumping,  but  throwing  the  fence  down, 
an  ox  or  cow,  attach  the  upper 
ers  to  the  horns,  and  pass  the 
strings  around  the  neck  instead  of 
over  the  throat-latch.  I  find  that 
cows  will  not  attempt  to  jump  after 
this  has  been  used  two  or  three 
weeks.  With  horses  and  mules  it 
must  be  used  a  much  longer  time, 
in  some  cases  for  months.  The 
leather  should  be  at  least  four  inches  The  Jumper  adjusted' 
wider  than  the  head  at  the  eyes,  but  five  or  more  will  be  much 
better.  This  will  bring  the  leather  outside  of  the  eyes  when 
on,  from  two  to  three  inches,  and  around  the  side  of  the  face, 
to  prevent  working  over  the  nose. 

THE   BODY  FETTERS. 

Another  good  way  is  to  buckle  a  surcingle  around  the 
body  where  the  saddle  of  the  harness  rests ;  just  back  of 
each  leg  an  inch  and  a  half  ring  should  be  attached  to  the 


the  i 
corn 


THE   SHORT   HOBBLE.  117 

surcingle,  very  strongly.  From  the  rings,  buckle  an  inch 
and  a  half  strap  around  each  arm,  just  short  enough  to  pre- 
vent the  legs  being  brought  forward  far  enough  to  move 
freely,  but  not  to  enable  jumping  a  fence.  It  works  very 
nicely  on  some  horses,  but  cannot  be  relied  on  in  all  cases. 

THE  SHOBT  HOBBLE. 

A  very  good  method  of  disabling  a  horse  in  a  pasture, 
where  he  can  be  under  special  surveillance,  is  having  two 
little  straps  that  will  buckle  around  the  fore-legs  above  the 
fetlock.  To  these  straps  should  be  attached  rings,  and  con- 
necting with  these  rings  a  piece  of  chain,  rope,  or  strap,  of 
twelve  to  fifteen,  or  even  more  inches  long ;  the  shorter,  the 
less  liable  to  move  :  if  very  short,  the  horse  will  stand  without 
moving ;  but  left  long  enough,  he  will  move  sufficiently  to 
eat,  but  not  to  run.  A  horse  should  not  be  left  indefinitely 
with  such  a  fetter  on. 

THE    SIDE   FETTERS. 

In  Europe  a  common  method  of  hobbling  horses  is  a 
piece  of  small  chain,  from  two  feet  six  inches  to  three  feet  in 
length,  which  has  attached  to  each  end  a  round,  hollow  ring, 
so  hasped  that  it  fits  easily  and  securely  around  the  feet  above 
the  hoof.  These  are  put  on  the  hind  and  fore  feet  of  one 
side,  compelling  the  horse,  when  he  moves,  to  take  both 
those  legs  up  at  a  time.  This  is  effectual ;  but  in  rough,  stumpy 
fields  it  is  not  safe  to  confine  the  legs,  and  should  be  used 
with  caution.  The  common  poke  is  objectionable,  because 
it  spoils  the  mane,  and  is  liable  to  excoriate  the  neck.  It 
you  do  use  this  means,  and  especially  on  colts  that  run  in 
back  pastures,  see  by  all  means  that  the  poke  is  well  fitted, 
so  that  it  will  not  chafe ;  and  if  you  can,  even  at  a  little 
trouble  and  expense,  wind  the  top  part  and  half-way  down 
the  neck,  on  each  side,  with  a  piece  of  sheepskin,  which 
will  protect  the  mane  and  prevent  soreness.  I  have  seen 
horses  have  fearful  sores  upon  the  neck,  from  the  carrying  of 
a  rough  yoke.  The  jumper  first  given,  all  things  considered, 
is  the  best  in  an  open  pasture :  it  gives  the  horse  perfect 
freedom,  and  cannot  injure  in  any  way. 


GENERAL  ADVICE. 


You  should  first  take  a  general  look  at  the  horse  you  de- 
sire to  treat,  and  get  as  good  an  understanding  as  you  can  of 
the  disposition  and  character.  Keep  in  mind  next  that  the 
horse  does  not  know  what  you  want  to  do  with  him,  and  that 
he  is,  in  his  possible  resistance,  only  acting  out  the  natural 
impulses  of  his  nature  for  protection.  His  impression  is  that 
you  are  an  enemy.  You  must  prove  to  him  that  you  are  a 
protector  and  friend.  Imagine  yourself  in  his  place,  and  how 
you  would  act  if  hurt,  abused,  and  frightened,  and  that  you 
could  not  understand  what  was  said  to  you.  Do  not,  as 
many  seem  to  do,  jump  at  the  conclusion  that  a  horse  must 
know  what  you  say  to  him,  and  that  if  he  does  not  obey  you, 
you  will  make  him  do  so,  with  the  whip  or  something  else. 
What  would  you  think  of  a  teacher,  who,  without  trying  to 
explain  and  simplify  the  lesson  so  that  it  could  be  compre- 
URided,  should  punish  and  abuse  for  not  doing  what  the 
child  could  not  understand?  Imagine  the  colt  a  child  of 
another  form.  Now,  the  worst  thing  you  can  do  is  to 
get  the  child  afraid  and  confused;  for  then,  while  depriv- 
ing of  conditions  reasonably  necessary  to  learn,  the  bad  part 
of  the  nature  is  excited  by  fear  and  hostility,  which,  at  the  very 
start,  must  throw  the  mind  and  feelings  all  out  of  harmonious 
action  to  work  well.  When  confused  and  excited,  the  colt, 
or  grown  horse,  acts  in  the  same  way.  Now,  you  must  aim 
to  guard  as  much  as  you  can  against  this  sort  of  confusion 
and  excitement  when  you  take  a  horse  in  hand.  You  must 
see  plainly  that  a  nervous,  sensitive  horse  cannot  be  handled 
as  roughly  as,  or  bear  the  excitement  that,  a  cold-blooded  one 
will.  A  quick,  nervous,  excitable  colt,  for  example,  would 
be  likely  to  be  ruined  by  a  few  cuts  of  the  whip,  or  doing 
any  thing  that  would  greatly  excite  the  fears.  This  class 
must  be  handled  delicately,  firmly,  and  patiently. 
118 


GENERAL   ADVICE.  119 

To  show  the  importance  of  keeping  the  subject  free  from 
excitement,  and  of  touching  just  right,  I  will  refer  to  a  marked 
case  during  last  season.  A  fine  Knox  colt,  a  stallion  four 
years  old,  was  owned  by  Mr.  Stevens,  a  sharp  horseman  in 
Lancaster,  N.H.  This  colt  was  wonderfully  nervous,  but  a 
very  fine,  intelligent  one.  Wishing  to  take  every  possible 
care,  regardless  of  expense,  to  have  the  colt  broken  well, 
Mr.  Stevens  employed  a  horse-breaker  of  good  reputa- 
tion, forty  miles  away  from  there,  to  break  the  colt  for 
him.  Before  going  to  Lancaster,  I  visited  the  town  where 
this  horse-trainer  lived.  He  told  me  about  the  trouble  he 
had  with  the  colt ;  that  he  had  him  there  six  weeks,  and  did 
every  thing  with  him  he  could  think  of;  that  he  was  a  devil, 
lunging  and  throwing  himself,  doing  every  thing  mean.  Citi- 
zens told  me  the  man  had  abused  the  colt  so  much,  they  had 
to  arrest  him  for  cruelty.  After  keeping  the  colt  six  weeks, 
and  doing  all  he  could  to  break  him,  he  was  compelled  to 
send  him  home  to  the  owner,  unbroken  ;  and  he  said  to  me, 
"  When  you  go  to  Lancaster  you  will  get  him  to  handle." 

Some  weeks  after,  when  forming  a  class  in  Lancaster, 
Mr  S.  was  pointed  out  to  me :  he  kept  away  from  me,  an 
indifferent  spectator.  I  was  a  little  provoked  at  his  in- 
difference, and,  walking  up  to  him,  urged  him  to  give  me 
his  personal  attention.  He  told  me  candidly  that  he  had 
no  confidence  whatever  in  me ;  that  he  had  seen  all  the 
horse-trainers,  &c. ;  that  he  knew  all  he  wanted  to  know 
about  it ;  told  me  about  his  colt,  and  that  he  did  not  know 
what  to  do  with  him.  I  said  to  him,  "  Bring  your  colt  here 
immediately,  and  I  will  tell  you  in  two  minutes  just  what 
I  can  do  with  him.  I  think  I  know  what  the  trouble  is, 
and  I  will  put  you  in  the  way  of  breaking  him  without  any 
trouble."  The  colt  was  brought  forward  for  inspection. 
I  found  him  a  remarkably  intelligent  but  sensitive  fellow. 
I  informed  the  owner  on  the  instant  that  I  could  drive 
him  gently  in  harness,  in  fifteen  minutes,  and  that  in  an 
hour  he  would  be  as  gentle  as  an  old  horse.  He  said  he 
could  not  believe  any  human  power  could  do  it ;  that  it 
was  impossible.  The  man  was  fearfully  incredulous  and 
hostile :  he  believed  me,  he  said,  either  a  humbug  of  the 
worst  kind,  or  wonderfully  skilful  ;  and  he  could  not  tell 
which.  Now,  there  was  no  trouble  at  all  in  controlling 


120  GENERAL  ADVICE. 

this  colt,  and  driving  him  in  the  time  named.  He  was 
driven  in  the  street  the  next  day,  perfectly  gentle.  A  week 
afterwards  Mr.  Stevens  informed  me  that  he  was  all  right ; 
and  when  he  saw  the  colt  driven  gently,  he  laughed,  say- 
ing he  gave  it  up ;  that  it  seemed  incredible  that  I  could 
do  it.  The  point  of  surprise  to  him,  as  to  all  others,  is,  that 
such  horses  will  submit  so  easily  and  quickly.  Had  I 
excited  this  horse  in  the  least,  it  would  have  been  impos- 
sible for  me  to  put  him  in  shafts  safely :  instead,  I  held 
him  by  passive  treatment  until  I  got  his  confidence,  and 
could  reason  with  him,  when  he  worked  in  smoothly  and 
as  easily  as  any  colt  I  ever  handled,  driving  him  without 
breeching,  and  allowing  the  cross-piece  to  come  against 
the  quarters,  &c.  Now,  a  cold-blooded  horse  would  bear 
a  great  deal  of  exciting  force  and  work  in  all  right,  while 
any  treatment  that  would  irritate  the  other  would  precipi- 
tate the  most  reckless  into  resistance ;  hence  the  trouble. 

A  very  nervous,  high-strung  balker,  for  example,  a  horse 
that  will  not  stand,  and  if  not  given  his  own  way  is  irrita- 
ble and  ugly,  but  otherwise  a  gentle  worker.  You  must 
work  upon  such  slowly  and  carefully ;  passive  treatment, 
followed  by  double  hitch  and  war-bridle :  the  main  point 
is  to  exhibit  all  the  power  you  can,  avoiding  excitement, 
and  afterwards  working  gently,  going  over  your  ground 
slowly,  constantly  winning  and  flattering  by  rewards  of 
apple,  &c.  This  temperament,  when  trained  in  balk- 
ing, or  will  not  stand,  sets  and  fixes  very  slowly  in  new 
habits :  they  are  impulsive,  inclined  to  the  habit  when 
irritated  and  excited.  A  condition  of  great  success  is 
guarding  against  this,  and  winning  the  better  nature  into 
harmony  with  your  efforts :  consequently  you  must  go 
slowly,  making  what  you  want  done  habitual  by  practice 
and  kindness,  until  you  are  confident  the  horse  will  con- 
tinue obedient.  If  it  is  to  stand  after  a  sharp  lesson,  to 
show  your  power,  go  to  the  head,  give  apples  or  something 
else  of  which  fond,  stopping  and  starting,  and  rewarding 
carefully  at  each  repetition,  going  farther  and  farther  back, 
until  you  can  get  in  and  out  of  the  wagon,  and  hold  your 
point  by  the  attention  and  confidence  you  have  inspired. 
You  will  remember  that  hitting  and  jerking  a  delicate 
horse  of  this  kind  would  undo  very  quickly  a  great  deal  of 


THE   SULKY   CHARACTERISTICS.  121 

good  work.  This  class  of  disposition  make  willing,  indus- 
trious workers,  and  must  have  a  gentle  hand  and  cool 
head  to  direct  them.  Nervous,  excitable  runaways,  horses 
spoiled  perhaps  by  the  wagon  striking  the  heels,  or  being 
upset,  you  must  not  fail  to  be  very  thorough  with.  Go  over 
your  primary  treatment  several  times,  if  necessary,  to 
make  your  foundation  thorough,  so  that  there  is  no  fear  ot 
the  shafts  striking  the  quarters,  the  rein  being  put  under 
the  tail,  &c.;  that  in  hitching  or  unhitching,  you  can,  with- 
out exciting  any  fear  or  resistance,  run  the  shafts  between 
the  legs  or  against  the  belly  and  quarters.  After  you  do 
it  by  this  course  of  subjection,  you  must  follow  up  on  the 
winning  plan.  Fill  your  pockets  with  apples,  and  win  the 
confidence  of  the  horse  completely,  by  rewarding  with  an 
occasional  piece  or  two,  but  all  this  time  industriously 
putting  your  shafts  in  every  way  against  and  around  the 
legs,  and  drive  without  breeching.  All  this  should  not 
require  over  an  hour  to  do  in  the  most  thorough  manner. 
Next  day,  you  must,  as  it  were,  partially  repeat  this  lesson, 
until  the  confidence  of  the  animal  is  fully  restored.  It  is 
no  feat  to  drive  the  average  of  these  colts,  no  matter  how 
excitable,  in  twenty  to  thirty  minutes :  a  little  kind  treat- 
ment afterwards  completely  setting  the  character.  I  do  it 
without  trouble  before  my  class,  almost  daily. 

THE  SULKY  CHARACTERISTICS. 

We  have  now  the  opposite  extreme,  which  is  equally  ex- 
ceptional. The  nervous  temper  will  always  work  in  quickly 
and  smoothly  when  treated  skilfully  and  kindly ;  not  so  the 
bull-dog  nature.  When  well  stirred  into  a  fight,  they  are  the 
most  disagreeable  of  all  horses  to  handle ;  for  they  do  not 
seem  to  be  willing  to  do  any  thing  without  coercion.  The 
point  here  is,  if  you  find  the  horse  sullenly  reckless,  and  you 
have  pushed  all  you  think  it  is  prudent  to  do,  though  the 
horse  will  seem  as  bad  as  ever,  stop  until  he  becomes  com- 
pletely cool  and  over  the  excitement :  go  to  work  now 
carefully,  and  the  subject  will  usually  work  in  as  easily  as 
any  ordinary  colt.  A  horse,  for  example,  that  will  not  back, 
and  will  throw  himself  down,  no  matter  how  stubborn  he 
acts,  will,  when  cool,  work  in  without  much  difficulty.  In 
some  rare  cases,  the  horse  may  warm  up  to  as  hard  a  resist- 


122  THE   SULKY  CHARACTERISTICS. 

ance  as  at  first ;  but  repetition  will  in  all  cases  give  success. 
You  SIMPLY  MUST  TAKE  MORE  TIME,  and  hang  on.  There  are 
many  horses  I  make  it  a  point,  if  possible,  to  get  as  sore 
and  sensitive,  muscularly,  as  I  can,  before  I  think  of  pushing 
for  the  point  of  breaking  up  the  habit,  when  I  know  I  can 
succeed.  Whereas,  to  attempt  to  do  so  at  first,  without  the 
advantage  of  increased  sensibility,  would  be  most  annoying 
and  difficult.  There  are  horses  of  great  endurance,  not 
fleshy,  and  showing  a  cat-like  wildness.  They  are  bad; 
but  I  make  them  yield  easily  as  soon  as  I  make  the  points 
of  perfect  obedience.  I  set  the  character  by  kind,  winning 
treatment.  Trust  nothing  to  chance  you  can  provide 
against.  Be  careful  and  thorough :  this  is  often  more  than 
half  the  secret  of  success.  Try  to  see,  at  all  times,  that  you 
must  trust  to  and  be  guided  by  your  head,  and  that  as  soon 
as  you  get  mad,  or  lose  control  of  yourself,  you  are  throwing 
away  the  strongest  points  of  your  real  strength.  There  is 
nothing  made  by  this,  —  every  thing  to  lose.  So,  if  you  are 
hasty-tempered  and  passionate,  make  up  your  mind  at  all 
hazards  to  keep  master  of  yourself.  This  will  be  a  great 
point  accomplished.  Do  not  talk  much  to  a  horse  you  are 
breaking,  and  do  not  be  yelling  at  the  top  of  your  voice 
what  you  have  to  say.  A  good  disciplinarian  never  says 
much,  but  is  right  to  the  point,  and  is  exact  in  command. 
Continual  talking  will  soon  make  a  horse  indifferent  to  com- 
mand. Then,  a  horse  can  hear  as  well  as  you  can,  and 
there  is  no  need  of  talking  above  an  ordinary  tone  of  voice. 
But  be  exact  in  requiring  obedience  to  every  command. 
Another  point  I  would  call  your  special  attention  to :  you 
cannot  be  wholly  guided  and  governed  by  arbitrary  rules. 
The  keen  perception  and  broad  comprehension  of  principles 
that  can  see  what  to  do  and  how  much  to  do  to  harmonize 
with  the  temperament,  intelligence,  and  habit,  are  a  quality 
that  must  be  in  the  man,  and  are  as  necessary  for  success  as 
the  use  of  right  principles.  This  quality  must  be,  as  it 
were,  merged  with  nicety  into  the  other;  and  it  is  here 
you  exalt  the  study  and  performance  of  this  duty  to  an 
exact  science.  You  may  ask  what  is  the  real  key  of  my  suc- 
cess. I  know  with  great  accuracy  the  disposition  and  char- 
acter of  a  horse  the  instant  brought  before  me,  and  I  know 
just  what  treatment  to  apply  with  most  success,  and  I  know 


THE   SULKY  CHARACTERISTICS.  123 

how  much  must  be  done  to  make  success  sure.  You  must 
be,  as  it  were,  to  be  more  than  ordinarily  successful,  full  of 
the  subject :  all  its  conditions  and  phases  must  be  clear  to 
the  mind.  Then  you  will  not  make  mistakes.  Never  get 
discouraged  by  failure.  Keep  success  always  before  your 
mind. 

It  was  by  defeats  and  failures  I  was  led  to  study  tempera- 
ments, and  forced  to  adopt  new  principles  of  subjection, 
which  I  was  in  time  able  to  combine  into  a  system  which 
covers  every  condition  of  difficulty.  This  knowledge  I  have 
tried  faithfully  to  impart  to  you ;  and  your  success  must 
depend  in  a  great  measure  upon  your  prudence  and  the 
thoroughness  of  your  efforts  in  applying  them.  It  is  only 
when  you  rise  above  the  average  scale  of  effort,  that  achieve- 
ment is  commendable  and  worthy  of  honor.  You  must  put 
thought,  tempered  with  patience  and  purpose,  into  your 
efforts.  There  must  be  sobriety  and  conviction  of  responsi- 
bility, that  will  make  you  see  and  feel  your  highest  and  truest 
interest  to  yourself  demands  rising  above  influences  which 
lower  and  destroy  self-respect  and  manhood.  There  is  no 
enemy  so  dangerous  as  intemperance.  The  generosity  and 
warm-heartedness  of  horsemen  leads  to  this ;  and  just  so 
far  as  you  yield  yourself  to  it,  you  are  planting  the  seeds  of 
derangement  and  injury  upon  your  nature  from  which  you 
must  experience  keen  misfortune. 


TROTTINQ. 

A  good  walking  gait  should  be  the  foundation  of  the 
training.  Continue  this  walking  lesson  until  the  colt  is 
thoroughly  gentle  and  submissive,  and  has  learned  to  walk 
with  energy.  Now  gradually  let  out  on  a  moderate  trot, 
holding  up  often,  gradually  letting  out  a  little  faster,  as  the 
strength  and  education  will  bear,  but  never  so  as  to  cause 
fatigue.  Those  muscles  that  are  brought  most  into  use  are 
most  largely  developed,  and  bear  in  mind  also  that  a  colt 
has  neither  the  strength  or  bottom  of  an  old  horse,  to  beai 
either  much  exertion,  or  to  be  pushed  in  his  gait,  and  can- 
not at  once  act  the  part  of  a  fast  going  well  trained  horse. 


124  TROTTING. 

Let  this  jogging  be  continued,  gradually  as  there  is  ambi- 
tion and  the  road  is  smooth  and  descending;  but  let  out 
only  so  fast,  or  to  the  point  that  the  gait  is  held  even  and 
square ',  and  at  first  should  be  pushed  only  a  short  distance, 
after  which  pull  back  to  a  walk  and  speak  encouragingly. 
This  is  to  be  repeated,  gradually  going  a  little  faster,  but 
never  to  the  point  of  exhaustion,  always  encouraging  with 
a  kind  word  or  two  after  doing  well.  I  would  here  caution 
against  hitching  the  colt  to  a  heavy  wagon  or  sulky.  The 
weight  must  be  reduced  as  much  as  possible,  and  the  better 
to  facilitate  the  object,  always  let  the  bursts  of  speed  be. on 
a  smooth,  slightly  descending  piece  of  road.  By  this  pre- 
caution you  will  remove  all  drag,  and  the  horse  is  able  to 
use  all  his  powers  to  the  best  possible  advantage. 

This  careful  driving  and  gradually  teaching  the  animal  to 
push  forward  when  commanded  is  to  be  continued,  but 
however  promising,  the  risk  should  not  *  be  hazarded  of 
trotting  a  race,  or  a  long  distance,  before  the  system  is 
thoroughly  matured  and  hardened  to  bear  prolonged  exer- 
tion. The  gait  of  many  fine  trotters  is  ruined  by  too  much 
haste  and  harshness  in  training.  A  horse  has  not  his  growth 
until  five  years  old,  and  should  not  be  put  to  severe  work 
before  six  or  seven  years  old.  It  is  proved  by  experience 
that  much  greater  age  is  necessary  to  attain  great  speed. 
Flora  Temple  made  her  fastest  time  of  two  minutes  nineteen 
and  three-quarter  seconds,  when  she  was  fifteen  years  old, 
at  Kalamazoo.  Dexter  is  constantly  increasing  his  speed, 
we  are  informed,  by  age  and  practice;  and  so  it  will  be 
found  with  all  the  best  trotters.  They  were  grown  into 
great  speed  by  careful,  persevering  work,  by  which  the 
system  is  highly  developed,  the  muscles  are  strengthened 
and  hardened,  and  useless  foul  matter  that  would  obstruct 
the  free  action  of  the  heart  and  lungs,  and  increase  the 
weight,  is  removed. 

Should  the  horse  break  when  pushed  in  his  gait,  he  should 
not  be  pulled  up  too  suddenly,  which  would  slacken  his 
speed.  Rather  encourage  him  to  go  faster,  and  by  gently 
and  firmly  pulling  right  and  left  bring  him  to  the  trot.  The 
horse  has  now  no  disposition  to  resist  control,  and  he  must 
be  taught  to  rely  upon  with  confidence,  as  well  as  yield 
submission  to  the  control  and  restraint  of  the  bit. 


TO   FORCE   ON   THE   TROT,  125 

TO  FORCE  ON  THE  TROT. 

There  are  many  promising  steppers  that  will  break  and 
run,  and  will  not  come  down  to  work  again,  when  much 
excited;  and  unless  there  is  power  to  prevent  such  a  habit 
and  force  on  the  trot,  the  horse  cannot  be  relied  upon  in  a 
race,  at  perhaps  the  very  instant  pushing  is  necessary. 
There  is  not  power  to  do  this  by  the  bit,  and  consequently 
horses  that  step  freely  in  private  become  foolish  and  unre 
liable  when  urged  in  company  with  other  horses.  There  is 
but  one  way  of  overcoming  this  trouble,  and  that  is  by  the 
use  of  the  following  means,  the  conception  of  which  ha? 
been  original  with  myself,  and  brought  to  the  notice  ol 
trainers  by  me  for  several  years,  and  has  proved  in  skillful 
hands  a  valuable  adjunct,  to  the  end  of  making  flighty,  ner- 
vous horses  come  down  to  fast,  reliable  going. 

Have  made  first  four  straps 
long  enough  to  go  around  the 
hind  legs  above  the  hocks, 
and  from  three  quarters  to  an 
inch  wide.  Obtain  next  two 
D's  or  rings,  in  size  to  admit 
two  each  of  these  straps 
to  be  run  through.  Step 
in  front  of  each  hind  leg  and 
buckle  these  straps  around 
the  leg  one  above  and  one  Cure  for  Breaking, 

below  the  gambrel,  the  ring 

or  D  in  front,  bringing  the  straps  to  an  acute  angle.  Put 
on  the  head  a  light  well-fitting  halter.  Attach  a  strap  to 
this,  which  must  be  in  part  double  to  regulate  the  angle, 
and  must  be  long  enough  to  extend  from  the  head  to  the 
back  edge  of  the  girt.  On  the  end  is  to  be  attached  a 
small,  nice,  easy  running  pulley,  fitted  to  run  a  half-inch 
cord.  The  strap  is  to  pass  back  from  the  halter,  between 
the  legs,  over  the  belly-band,  just  back  of  which  must  come 
this  pulley.  Take  next  a  piece  of  firm,  hard  cotton  or  hemp 
cord,  from  three-eighths  to  half  an  inch  in  size.  Run  it 
through  the  pulley  to  the  center,  and  tie  the  ends  into  the 
D's  or  rings  attached  to  the  hind  legs;  the  whole  to  be  so 
regulated  in  length  that  the  horse  can  walk  or  trot  easily. 
This  is  similar  to  the  kicking  straps  described  on  page  78. 


126  TO  FORCE  ON  THE  TROT. 

(See  cut.)  One  leg  going  forward  to  the  degiee  that  the 
opposite  one  goes  back,  brings  no  restraint  on  the  cord  or 
head,  but  the  instant  both  feet  go  back  as  in  the  act  of 
running,  the  cord  is  shortened,  the  head  is  drawn  back,  and 
the  horse  is  taught  that  he  is  helpless.  He  soon  learns  this 
and  becomes  afraid  to  break,  though  subjected  to  any  rea- 
sonable excitement.  With  this  "rig"  on,  move  the  horse 
on  a  walk  until  accustomed  to  it,  which  will  usually  require 
but  a  very  short  time.  Then  let  out  on  a  moderate  trot, 
and  when  thoroughly  accustomed  to  it  pushing  to  a  fast 
gait.  This  must  be  repeated.  In  fact  this  arrangement 
should  be  kept  on  until  the  horse  is  made  reliable.  Should 
be  driven  and  thoroughly  practiced  with  other  horses,  and 
excitement  made  as  if  in  a  race.  Of  course  all  this  requires 
ingenuity,  patience  and  care. 

This  will  work  best  on  some  horses  by  attaching  to  the 
collar,  or  around  the  neck.  The  restraint  is  simply  more 
positive  by  this  change. 

One  gentleman  in  Ohio,  two  years  since,  came  one 
hundred  and  fifty  miles  to  get  this  treatment  of  me,  and  in 
three  months  afterwards  he  informed  me  that  he  had  since 
sold  a  mare  for  fifteen  hundred  dollars  which  he  had  bought 
for  three  hundred,  and  seventy-five  dollars.  She  would 
break  when  in  the  least  excited,  and  could  be  made  nothing 
of,  though  a  fast  stepper.  He  bought  her,  made  the  experi- 
ment, and  in  less  than  a  month  had  her  down  fine,  and 
could  hold  her  under  the  whip  regardless  of  yelling  and  the 
excitement  of  competing  horses.  This  gentleman  informed 
me  he  then  had  a,  horse  that  promised  equally  good  results 
by  this  treatment. 


To  make  a  pacing  horse  trot,  the  cords  are  crossed  from  the  hind  leg  on  one 
side  to  the  fore  leg  on  the  other.    Can  make  a  pacing  horse  trot  in  a  few 


minutes. 


BREEDING. 


127 


Intelligent  and  Gentle. 


BKEEDI.NQ. 

One  of  the  primary  points 
of  success  is  to  start  right, 
and  in  no  respect  is  this 
more  essential  than  in  breed- 
ing. The  law  of  like  pro- 
ducing like  is  inexorable ; 
consequently  it  is  seen  that 
to  raise  good  horses,  good 
horses  must  be  bred  from. 
Many  farmers  who  are  other- 
wise keenly  alive  to  their 
interest,  are  singularly 
thoughtless  and  imprudent 
in  this.  If  a  mare  is  broken 
down  and  unfit  for  labor,  no 
matter  how  coarse,  badly 
formed,  or  what  the  evidence 
of  constitutional  unsoundness,  she  is  reserved  to  breed  from. 
Again  the  cheapest  horse,  no  matter  how  coarse  if  sleek 
and  fat,  ;s  selected  and  employed  to  breed  from.  The  most 
ignorant  farmer  is  particular  to  select  the  largest  and  soun- 
dest potatoes,  the  cleanest  wheat  and  oats,  for  seed,  etc. 
He  has  learned  this  is 
true  economy.  Yet 
there  seems  to  be  the 
most  utter  disregard 
of  this  law  of  pru- 
dence in  the  breed- 
ing of  horses  and 
farm  stock  in  general. 
During  my  long  ex- 
perience before  the 
public,  I  have  en- 
deavored to  impress 
upon  farmers,  when 
I  could,  that  this  sort 
of  economy  is  like 
paying  a  quarter  for  a 

chicken,  and  giving  a  Dim  and  Treacherou* 

dollar  to  have  it  taken  home. 


128 


BREEDING. 


It  costs  just  as  much  to  raise  a  poor,  coarse  blooded  colt, 
as  a  fine  blooded  one.  The  cost  of  feeding  and  care  is 
really  the  same,  the  only  difference  in  cost  being  in  that  of 
the  use  of  the  horse.  The  first  will  possibly  sell  when  five 
years  old  and  trained  to  harness,  for  from  a  hundred 
to  a  hundred  and  fifty  dollars.  The  other  is  worth 
from  three  hundred  to  a  thousand,  and  possibly  more. 
The  first  will  scarcely  sell  for  the  cost  of  feeding  and 
care.  The  second  ensures  a  large  profit,  and  this  for 
a  little  additional  first  cost.  And  then  the  satisfaction  of 
having  fine  valuable  animals,  that  can  go  along  if  necessary, 

able  to  do  any  kind 
of  work  easily,  and 
saleable  for  a  larger 
price,  is  a  source  of 
no  ordinary  pleasure 
and  encouragement, 
if  from  no  other 
feeling  than  that  of 
contributing  so 
largely  to  increased 
economy  and  wealth. 
The  fact  is,  breeding 
from  poor,  unsound 
horses  is  so  much  a 
detriment,  that  it 
would  be  a  damage 
to  any  one  to  be 
compelled  to  breed  from  such  stock,  if  given  for  the  purpose. 


Naturally  Sensitive  and  Shy. 


IN   RUSSIA,    PRUSSIA   AND   AUSTRIA, 

the  breeding  of  horses  is  controlled  by  the  governments, 
each  one  having  large  breeding  establishments,  where  those 
wishing,  can  procure  sound  stallions,  devoid  of  all  heredi- 
tary diseases.  Each  stallion  is  furnished  with  a  certificate 
from  the  government.  No  other  stallions  are  allowed  to 
serve  mares,  under  a  penalty.  The  result  is,  that  you  will 
scarcely  find  an  unsound  horse,  except  by  accidents,  etc. 
Hereditary  diseases,  such  as  ophthalma,  roaring,  rupture, 
spavin,  ringbone,  curby  hock,  spongy  feet,  etc.,  scarcely 
known.  It  would  be  a  source  of  undoubted  economy  and 
benefit  to  the  breeders,  if  the  legislature  of  each  State  would 


BREEDING.  129 

enact  such  laws,  by  appointing  competent  inspectors  to 
grant  licenses  to  those  free  from  blemish  or  hereditary  dis- 
eases or  unsoundness. 

A  few  years'  breeding,  under  such  restrictions,  would 
materially  increase  the  value  of  horses  in  each  State,  and 
thus  be  a  real  blessing  to  owners  and  the  country. 

In  selecting  a  stallion,  look  first  carefully  at  his  head.  The 
nostrils  should  be  large  and  well  defined ;  eyes,  that  they 
are  full,  bright,  and  clear ;  good  breadth  between  the  eyes  ; 
the  ears  lively  and  rather  short  and  tapering,  and  the  head 
high  between  the  ears;  next,  that  the  throat  shows  no  en- 
largements of  the  glands,  showing  a  disposition  to  be  a 
whistler  or  roarer;  next,  the  shoulder  should  be  oblique, 
strong  and  high;  then  the  fore  leg,  see  that  it  is  not  tied  in 
(as  it  is  termed)  under  the  knee,  for  such  are  liable  to 
spring;  then  the  feet  should  be  of  good  size,  sufficient 
depth  to  be  strong  in  the  quarters;  spongy  and  flat  feet 
should  be  rejected;  next,  the  loin  should  be  strong,  the 
back  should  be  well  coupled,  quarters  broad  from  point  to 
point  of  hips,  and  running  nearly  straight  out  to  root  of 
tail;  stifle  should  stand  low  and  well  out;  hocks  broad  and 
strong;  no  puffs  or  wind  galls,  as  it  indicates  weakness. 
As  a  colt  from  such  a  horse  at  an  early  age,  may  show  indi- 
cations of  blood  spavin  or  thorough  pin,  look  at  the  inside 
of  the  hock,  an  enlargement  at  the  point  of  what  is  called 
a  jack  spavin  or  curb,  enlargement  on  the  back  of  the  leg ; 
next,  at  the  foot,  that  there  is  no  enlargement  at  the  edge 
of  the  hoof,  known  as  ringbone;  weak  eyes,  or  blindness, 
poll  evil,  fistula  of  withers,  or  in  fact  any  cause  of  unsound- 
ness  should  discard  a  stallion.  I  need  not  remind  that  the 
mare  should  be  selected  with  the  same  care.  Heaves, 
broken  wind,  and  marked  contraction  of  the  feet  should 
discard  a  horse,  and  I  would  by  all  means  discard  a  bad 
tempered  one.  The  horse  should  be  in  good  health  or  con- 
dition. This  implies  that  he  has  been  subjected  to  moder- 
ate but  regular  exercise  during  the  season.  A  horse  that  is 
driven  hard  and  hurried  from  place  to  place,  perhaps  over- 
heated and  made  to  cover  from  two  to  four  or  five  mares  a 
day,  should  be  regarded  as  unsafe,  and  the  colt  liable  to 
lack  vitality. 

To  be  successful  in  breeding  any  particular  variety  of 
horses  requires  first  decision  as  to  the  purpose  for  which 


130  THE   MARE. 

intended.  To  be  particular  requires  first,  intention  as  to 
purpose  for  which  intended.  If  heavy  draft  horses,  evenly 
trotting  roadsters,  or  ponies  are  required,  select  both  dam 
and  sire  with  special  reference  to  the  kind  of  stock  wanted. 
If  the  mare  is  light  boned  or  defective,  select  a  heavier 
boned  horse,  one  that  possesses  the  contrast  of  greater 
strength  or  better  points  in  that  respect.  But  to  ensure 
much  certainty  of  what  you  would  have,  the  mare  and 
horse  should  be  as  nearly  the  type  desired  as  possible, 
though  not  related.  I  would  be  very  particular  about  dis- 
position and  intelligence.  The  head  should  be  broad 
between  the  eyes,  muzzle  small,  short  or  middling  short 
from  eyes  to  ears.  The  smaller  and  rounder  the  eyes,  the 
more  positive  will  be  the  temper.  (See  cuts.)  To  have  a 
horse  sensitive,  intelligent,  courageous,  and  naturally  docile, 
there  must  be  large  brain,  the  eye  must  be  large,  standing 
well  out,  and  mild  in  expression. 

Of  course  it  is  understood  that  BAD   TREATMENT  WILL 

SPOIL  THE  BEST  TEMPERED  HORSES,  AND  GOOD  TREATMENT 
WILL  MAKE  GOOD  SAFE  ANIMALS  OF  THE  WORST. 

THE  MARE. 

The  mare  is  said  to  go  with  foal  eleven  months  or  three 
hundred  days;  but  it  is  not  uncommon  for  mares  to  have 
fully  developed  foals  in  much  less  time,  and  in  many 
instances  mares  have  been  known  to  go  four  or  five  weeks 
beyond  this  time.  Time  should  be  so  arranged  in  putting 
mares,  that  the  colts  will  come  at  a  time  when  there  is  some 
grass,  as  the  mare  will  do  better  not  to  be  confined  to  dry 
feed.  The  virgin  mare,  or  one  that  has  not  had  a  colt,  for 
one  season,  must  be  put  when  she  is  found  in  season.  The 
mare  that  has  had  a  colt  will  be  found  in  season,  and  should 
be  put  on  the  eighth  or  ninth  day  after  foaling ;  some  prefer 
the  eighth,  others  the  eleventh.  Good  judges  claim  that  it 
is  dangerous  to  go  beyond  the  tenth,  as  the  mare  is  apt  to 
come  off  her  heat  soon  after,  and  if  allowed  to  go  to  a  later 
period,  the  sucking  of  the  colt  is  likely  to  reduce  the  mare 
too  much  to  allow  conception  to  take  place,  and  thus  a 
year's  service  of  the  breeder  is  lost. 

After  putting  a  mare,  the  days  for  trial  are  the  ninth  after 
service,  the  seventh  after  this,  the  fifth  after  this  again, 


STABLING. 

Some  commence  again,  commencing  with  the  ninth  day 
and  follow  up  as  before,  making  forty-two  days.  Twenty- 
one  days  being  the  period  elapsing  between  a  mare's  going 
out  of  heat,  and  coming  in  again,  making  her  periodical 
term  thirty  days.  Twenty-one  days  is  claimed  to  be  suffi- 
cient to  prove  a  mare. 

The  mare  and  colt  should  be  well  fed,  and  protected 
from  storms.  The  theory  of  working  a  mare  hard,  and 
half  starving  the  colt,  is  the  poorest  kind  of  economy, 
since  the  mare  needs  generous  feed  and  rest,  to  renew  her 
strength  and  make  her  milk,  by  which  of  course  the  colt  is 
nourished  and  made  to  grow.  When  size  and  strength  will 
indicate  that  it  is  time  to  wean,  which  is  usually  in  five  or 
six  months,  put  the  colt  in  a  quiet  pasture,  away  from  the 
mare,  where  it  should  be  closely  looked  after.  A  little 
oats,  (better  if  bruised,)  should  be  given  daily. 

The  conclusion  of  careful  breeders  is,  that  it  is  much 
better  for  a  colt  to  run  in  pasture,  than  to  be  confined  in  a 
stable.  If  the  colt  is  intended  for  farm  use,  castration  may 
be  performed  when  six  months  old ;  if,  however,  the  withers 
are  light,  it  should  be  postponed  until  the  head  and  neck 
fills  up  to  the  degree  required,  and  this  may  require  from 
one  to  two  years,  or  even  more.  If  the  head  is  large  and 
heavy,  early 'castration  is  advisable.  Colts  should  be  gen- 
erously fed,  and  protected  from  the  inclemency  of  the 
weather  in  winter.  They  should  be  treated  gently.  May 
be  broken  early  to  harness,  if  treated  gently  and  with  care. 
This,  however,  is  hazardous,  as  there  is  danger  of  over- 
driving young  colts  if  they  are  driven  at  all.  Many  seem 
to  take  pride  in  trials  to  which  they  subject  two  or  three 
year  old  colts.  It  is  not  what  they  can  do,  but  what  they 
ought  to  be  required  to  do. 

STABLING. 

Pure  air  is  not  only  an  absolute  essential  in  securing  and 
retaining  the  perfect  health  of  horses,  but  is  the  cheapest 
and  most  easily  available.  The  stable  should  be  so  located 
and  constructed  as  to  enable  this  most  perfectly,  as  well  as 
afford  the  greatest  convenience  and  comfort,  thus  ensuring 
health  and  economy.  It  should  be  built  on  a  dry,  airy 
location,  facing  the  south,  large  enough  to  give  ample 


132  STABLING. 

iOom,  warm  and  well  lighted,  yet  well  ventilated.  The 
stalls  should  be  at  least  five  feet  wide  for  work  horses,  and 
if  fine  horses  that  are  worked  but  little,  they  should  be 
large  enough  to  enable  stepping  around  freely.  If  there  is 
room,  a  box  stall  is  the  best,  but  it  should  not  be  close. 
The  door,  at  least,  should  be  made  of  slats,  and  a  window 
above  the  head,  so  arranged  that  it  can  be  thrown  open  to 
give  light  and  ventilation.  The  door  should  be  large,  to 
preclude  injury  by  striking  the  sides  or  hips  against  the 
posts,  and  there  should  be  a  reasonably  large  yard,  which 
should  be  well  fenced.  If  a  manger  and  rack  of  the  com- 
mon form  across  the  stall  is  used,  I  would  suggest  an  im- 
provement upon  that  in  general  use. 

First.  It  should  be  so  constructed  that  the  horse  cannot 
waste  the  feed  while  eating,  yet  should  not  be  very  high — 
the  top  about  three  and  a  half  feet  from  the  floor. 

The  rack,  instead  of  sloping  out  over  the  head  of  the 
horse,  should  stand  straight,  or  perpendicular,  which  will 
prevent  hay  seed  and  dust  from  falling  upon  the  horse's 
head,  and  enable  catching  and  pulling  the  hay  more  easily 
from  the  rack,  and  the  back  so  inclined  forward  that  the 
hay  will  all  the  time  be  in  the  horse's  reach.  The  bottom 
should  be  open  like  the  front,  so  that  the  dust  can  drop 
through  to  the  floor. 

The  best  form  of  manger  I  have  seen,  both  for  conve- 
nience, safety  and  health,  is  that  so  constructed  that  there 
is  an  alley  in  front  of  the  head.  The  place  for  hay  is  a 
sort  of  box,  on  one  side  of  which  is  a  feed  box,  which 
should  be  large  enough  to  prevent  throwing  the  feed  out 
while  eating.  The  hitching  ring  should  be  on  the  off  or 
farther  side,  to  prevent  the  strap  being  caught  by  the  foot. 
The  manger  should  be  about  on  a  level  with  the  shoulders. 
The  nearer  the  horse  is  made  to  imitate  his  position  when 
eating  in  the  field  the  better.  But  this  is  not  admissible  in 
the  construction  of  the  manger,  since  the  horse  would 
waste  the  feed.  This  form  of  feeding  box  and  manger  is 
cleaner.  There  is  not  that  temptation  to  give  more  hay  at 
a  time  than  the  horse  may  need.  The  manger  can  be 
reached  easily  and  safely;  in  feeding  the  hay  is  easily 
thrown  upon  the  floor,  where  it  can  be  easily  shaken  up 
and  thrown  fresh  and  palatable  to  the  horse.  It  obviates 
the  usual  temptation  of  a  receptacle  under  the  manger,  is 


STABLING.  133 

which  to  pack,  during  the  day,  a  lot  of  poisonous  bedding, 
and  finally  there  is  the  best  of  ventilation,  as  the  air  can 
freely  circulate  in  front  of  the  manger.  Every  stable  should 
have  a  sort  of  chimney,  or  opening  at  the  top,  to  allow  of 
the  bad  air  to  pass  out  freely.  The  windows  should  be  so 
placed  as  to  admit  light  enough  that  the  ordinary  work  of 
the  stable  can  be  done  without  opening  the  doors,  which 
should  have  shutters  to  enable  darkening  the  stable  if  ne- 
cessary, when  flies  are  troublesome,  or  to  permit  sleep  in 
the  day  time,  which  is  often  necessary.  The  walls,  if  any, 
in  front  should  not  be  whitewashed,  as  is  often  done,  as 
pure  white  would  injure  the  eyes.  The  color  should  be 
made  neutral  by  adding  some  brown  or  other  coloring  mat- 
ter. A  cellar  stable,  unless  so  constructed  as  to  enable  at 
all  times  the  most  perfect  ventilation,  is  dangerous;  yet  one 
of  the  best  stables  I  have  seen  was  what  would  be  termed  a 
cellar  stable,  which  was  simply  a  series  of  box  mangers 
running  across  the  whole  size  of  the  building,  with  a  pas- 
sage-way running  lengthwise  through  the  centre,  thus  giving 
free  access  to  each  range  from  the  end,  from  which  was  a 
run-way  to  the  floor  above ;  but  there  was  a  series  of  little 
open  grates  around  the  entire  room  near  the  ceiling,  which 
gave  perfect  ventilation.  A  special  point  I  would  call  at- 
tention to,  viz. :  not  having,  on  any  condion,  a  stall  so 
constructed  as  to  have  a  stone  or  brick  wall  on  one  side,  or 
have  the  naked  wall  form  one  side  of  a  stall.  The  temper- 
ature of  one  side  is  so  much  lower  than  that  of  the  other, 
that  derangement  of  the  circulation  must  result,  causing 
cold  and  injury  that  is  often  the  cause  of  spoiling  a  valuable 
horse.  If  a  stall  is  so  located,  line  the  wall  with  plank. 
The  construction  of  farmer's  stables  is  generally  bad,  the 
stalls  being  too  narrow  and  short,  the  hay  rack  too  high, 
and  the  top  part  standing  too  far  forward  over  the  head. 
In  many  cases  they  are  but  little  better  than  a  close,  dark 
box,  without  any  adequate  means  of  ventilation  wtien  the 
doors  are  closed,  and  if  they  are  open  there  is  usually  so 
much  draft  of  air  as  to  cause  cold,  just  as  those  occunying 
a  close,  warm  room  are  made  to  feel  keenly  anv  swiden 
current  of  cold  air  that  may  be  admitted  into  the  romu  by 
too  suddenly  throwing  the  doors  open  while  warm  The 
sudden  influx  of  cold  air  would  check  perspiration  and  ^Inse 
the  pores  of  the  skin,  thereby  endangering  some  acute-  fai  rc 
of  inflammation. 


1*34  FEEDING. 

Again,  the  stables  are  usually  built  over  a  cellar,  which  is 
perhaps  half  filled  with  water  and  manure  that  throws  up- 
ward through  the  floor  a  deadly  miasma  that  lays  the  found- 
ation of  disease.  The  rack  is  crammed  with  hay,  the  dust 
and  dirt  of  which  is  forced  against  the  horse's  nose.  The 
manger  is  half  filled  with  filth  and  trash.  The  bedding, 
thoroughly  impregnated  with  ammonia,  is  rolled  under 
the  manger  in  the  morning,  to  saturate  and  poison  the  hay 
above  it  in  the  rack,  or  such  other  food  as  may  be  given  the 
animal.  The  usual  bad  ventilation  and  high  temperature 
of  cellar  stables  make  too  great  and  violent  a  change  in  the 
temperature  when  taken  in  or  out,  and  the  consequence  will 
be  cold  cough,  with  great  disposition  to  attacks  of  pneu- 
monia, or  lung  fever.  Humanity  and  true  self  interest 
should  prompt  to  looking  to  these  errors  being  corrected  in 
the  construction  of  the  horse's  places  of  living,  and  as  these 
ends  can  be  attained  without  any  extra  expense  worthy  of 
consideration  that  is  necessary  for  the  construction  of  a 
poor  one,  it  is  a  duty  which  is  a  really  suicidal  policy  to 
neglect. 

I  would  suggest,  in  conclusion,  that  the  flooring  of  stalls 
or  a  stable  should  never  be  made  of  hard  wood,  such  as 
oak,  ash,  chestnut,  etc.,  as  it  wears  smooth  and  endangers 
slipping  and  injury  of  the  horse  in  getting  up.  The  best 
wood  for  flooring  is  elm,  spruce,  hard  pine,  hemlock,  or 
any  wood  that  will  wear  rough  and  prevent  slipping. 

FEEDING. 

Hay,  corn  fodder,  oats  and  corn,  constitute  the  principal 
food  of  horses  in  this  country.  Hay  and  oats  in  the  North- 
ern States,  fodder  and  corn  in  the  South.  The  food  should 
be  in  quality  and  quantity  to  impart  strength,  vitality  and 
elasticity,  and  this  requires  some  discrimination  and  care, 
as  the  food  should  be  harmonized  both  to  the  condition, 
and  the  severity  of  the  labor  to  which  the  horse  is  sub- 
jected. As  a  rule,  the  stomach  should  not  be  distended 
with  food  when  prolonged,  energetic  effort  is  desired,  as  the 
heart  and  lungs  would  thereby  be  much  impeded  in  their 
action,  and  congestion  and  rupturing  of  or  enlarging  of  the 
air  cells  of  the  lungs  may  result.  This  is  to  be  especially 
guarded  against  in  the  feeding  of  hay.  Greedy  eaters  cars 


FEEDING.  135 

and  will  gorge  themselves  by  eating  so  much  hay  as  to  be 
unfit  for  active  labor,  and  is  usually  shown  to  result  in 
heaves  or  broken  wind.  Heaves  are  always  found  in  the 
teamsters'  or  carters'  stables,  where  there  is  no  care  in  feed- 
ing. This  disease  is  always  found  among  horses  of  the 
above  class,  but  never  found  among  racing  horses,  from  the 
fact  that  the  utmost  prudence  and  care  is  used  in  selecting 
the  food,  and  feeding  in  smaller  quantities,  or  in  adapting 
the  food  more  perfectly  to  the  wants  of  the  system. 

It  has  been  demonstrated  beyond  doubt  that  the  reason 
horses  improve  so  much  in  wind  by  eating  prairie  hay  is, 
that  it  is  so  coarse  that  horses  cannot  eat  it  fast  enough  to 
overload  the  stomach.  The  quantity  of  hay  should  be 
carefully  regulated,  and  never  as  much  given  as  the  horse 
will  eat  if  at  all  voracious.  The  majority  of  owners  pack  a 
large  rack  full,  allowing  either  liberty  to  eat  too  much,  or 
making  it  unpalatable  and  unhealthy,  by  being  breathed 
upon.  From  eight  to  ten  pounds  is  about  the  average 
quantity  for  an  ordinary  roadster  to  be  allowed  in  twenty- 
four  hours,  more  or  less,  according  to  size,  the  kind  of 
work,  and  the  quantity  of  grain  given.  Dusty  or  mouldy 
hay  should  not  be  fed,  as  it  is  liable  to  produce  various  forms 
of  disease. 

All  food  should  be  clean,  and  in  quality  perfect.  Hay  is 
most  perfect  when  it  is  about  a  year  old.  Horses  would 
perhaps  prefer  earlier,  but  it  is  neither  so  wholesome  nor  so 
nutritious,  and  may  purge.  When  it  is  a  year  old  it  should 
retain  much  of  its  green  color  and  agreeable  smell.*  The 
blades  of  corn  pulled  and  cured  in  the  summer  are  unques- 
tionably much  better  than  hay.  I  should  certainly  prefer 
this  kind  of  fodder  to  any  kind  of  hay,  for  fine  horses.  It 
is  strange  that  it  is  not  prized  more  highly  in  the  North. 

Oats  make  more  muscle  than  corn.  Corn  makes  fat  and 
warmth.  Hence,  the  colder  the  weather,  the  more  corn 
may  be  given,  and  the  harder  the  work,  the  more  oats. 
Oats  should  be  a  year  old,  heavy,  dry  and  sweet.  New 
oats  will  weigh  from  ten  to  fifteen  per  cent,  more  than  old 
ones ;  but  the  difference  is  principally  water.  New  oats  are 
said  to  be  more  difficult  to  digest,  and  when  in  considerable 

»  NOTE  1.— In  packing  or  stacking  hay.  salt  should  be  slightly  sprinkled 
through  it  BO  as  to  detroy  insects.  It  also  aids  in  preserving  il  bright,  and  make* 
it  more  palatable  and  healthy  for  the  horse. 


136  FEEDING. 

quantity  are  apt  to  cause  flatulency  and  derangement  of  the 
stomach  and  bowels.  The  same  may  be  said  of  corn.  If  not 
sound  and  dry,  it  may  be  regarded  even  much  more  dan- 
gerous than  oats,  and  should  not  be  fed.  Doing  so  will  be 
at  the  hazard  of  the  consequences  above  mentioned. 

The  quantity  of  oats  given  daily  may  vary  from  eight  to 
sixteen  quarts.  If  the  horse  is  large,  and  the  work  is  severe, 
a  little  more  may  be  given.  Corn  should  be  fed  in  the  ear, 
and  like  oats  must  be  regulated  in  quantity  to  the  size  and 
labor  of  the  animal ;  from  five  to  twelve  good  sized  ears  are 
a  feed.  I  give  a  larger  proportion  of  feed  at  night,  and  less 
in  the  morning  and  noon.  There  is  ample  time  for  diges- 
tion during  the  night.  There  is  not  during  the  day,  if  the 
labor  is  severe.  Experience  proves  that  some  mildly  cooling 
laxative  food  should  be  occasionally  given.  A  bran  mash, 
made  by  pouring  boiling  water  on  eight  or  ten  quarts  of 
wheat  bran,  covered  over  until  cool  and  fed  at  night,  from 
once  to  three  times  a  week,  is  the  finest  and  best. 

Carrots  are  a  good  laxative  and  alterative  before  frost, 
but  are  too  cold  and  constipating  during  cold  weather.  They 
may  be  fed  in  October,  November  and  December,  but  in 
the  Northern  States  not  later.  (I  am  governed  by  the 
judgment  of  one  of  the  best  veterinary  surgeons  in  the 
United  States,  based  upon  careful  and  critical  observation 
of  effects  on  a  large  number  of  horses,  on  this  point.)  I 
feed  Irish  potatoes,  from  one  to  three  quarts,  with  the  usual 
quantity  of  grain,  from  two  to  three  or  four  times  a  week, 
and  would  recommend  their  use.  Think  their  value  cannot 
be  over-estimated.  Feeding  a  small  quantity  of  roots  and 
giving  bran  mashes,  keeps  the  bowels  open  and  the  system 
in  a  uniform,  healthy  condition.  Without  them  constipa- 
tion is  probable,  and  this  is  one  of  the  primary  causes  of 
diarrhoea,  colic,  or  inflammation  of  the  bowels.  If  it  is 
desired  to  make  a  horse  fat  in  a  short  time,  feed  corn  meal 
and  shorts,  with  cut  straw,  to  which  add  a  pint  of  cheap 
molasses.  Nothing  like  this  for  recruiting  and  filling  up  a 
horse  that  is  out  of  sorts  or  poor.  If  the  horse  eats  too  fast, 
put  a  few  round  stones  in  the  feed  box.  He  must  now  pick 
the  food  from  among  the  stones,  and  thus  he  is  compelled 
to  eat  slowly. 

If  the  horse  is  exhausted,  or  when  sufficient  time  cannot 
be  allowed  for  him  to  eat  and  partially  digest  a  full  meal, 


WATERING.  137 

he  may  be  greatly  refreshed  by  a  draught  of  warm  gruel,  01 
in  summer,  of  cold  water  containing  a  small  quantity  of 
meal.  To  give  some  idea  of  the  routine  of  feeding  and 
watering  when  great  care  is  necessary,  I  include  the  system 
of  feeding  and  watering  Mr.  Bonner's  famous  trotting  horse, 
Dexter: 

"  At  six  every  morning,  Dexter  has  all  the  water  he  wants, 
and  two  quarts  of  oats.  After  eating,  he  is  '  walked '  for 
half  an  hour  or  more,  then  cleaned  off,  and  at  nine  has  two 
quarts  more  of  oats.  If  no  drive  is  on  the  card  for  after- 
noon, he  is  given  a  half  to  three-quarters  of  an  hour  of 
gentle  exercise.  At  one  o'clock  he  has  oats  again,  as  before, 
limited  to  two  quarts. 

"  From  three  to  four,  he  is  driven  twelve  to  fifteen  miles; 
after  which  he  is  cleaned  off  and  rubbed  thoroughly  dry. 

"  He  has  a  bare  swallow  of  water  on  returning  from  the 
drive,  but  is  allowed  free  access  to  his  only  feed  of  hay,  of 
which  he  consumes  from  five  to  six  pounds. 

' 'If  the  drive  has  been  a  particularly  sharp  one,  he  is 
treated  as  soon  as  he  gets  in,  to  a  quart  or  two  of  oat  meal 
gruel;  and  when  thoroughly  cooled,  has  half  a  pail  of 
water  and  three  quarts  of  oats,  with  two  quarts  of  bran 
moistened  with  hot  water. 

"  Before  any  specially  hard  day's  work  or  trial  of  his 
speed,  his  allowance  of  water  is  still  more  reduced. ' ' 

WATEKINQ. 

If  a  large  quantity  of  cold  water  is  taken  into  the  stomach 
while  the  system  is  agitated  and  sensitive,  by  the  circulation 
being  so  increased  as  to  open  the  pores  of  the  skin  freely, 
it  is  liable  to  so  chill  the  stomach  as  to  derange  the  circula- 
tion and  close  the  pores  of  the  skin,  and  thus  excite  some 
one  of  the  common  alimentary  derangements  of  colic  or 
inflammation  of  the  bowels.  Hard  water,  especially  cold 
well  water,  is  more  liable  to  cause  mischief  in  this  way  than 
soft  water.  Hard  water  will  derange  some  horses,  so  much 
as  to  show  an  almost  immediate  effect  of  causing  the  hair  to 
look  rough  or  stare,  the  appetite  deranged,  if  not  indeed 
preceded  by  colic  or  inflammation  of  the  bowels;  also, 
horses  that  are  raised  and  worked  in  the  country,  where  the 
xvater  is  strongly  impregnated  with  lime,  are  troubled  a 


138  WATERING. 

good  deal  with  intestinal  calculi,  /.  <?.,  stone  in  the  bladder. 
Hence  soft  water  should  be  given,  if  convenient;  and  if 
well  water,  especially  while  warm,  it  should  either  have  the 
chill  taken  off  or  be  given  very  sparingly. 

The  best  time  to  water  is  about  half  an  hour  before  feed- 
ing. While  driving,  the  rule  should  be  little  and  often. 
None,  or  only  a  swallow  or  two,  should  be  given  at  the 
close  of  a  drive,  until  cool.  If  very  warm,  the  horse  should 
be  walked  moderately  where  there  is  not  a  current  of  air  to 
strike  him,  from  ten  to  thirty  minutes,  as  may  be  found 
necessary.  If,  then,  any  danger  is  apprehended,  the  chill 
should  be  taken  off  the  water  if  very  cold  and  given  sparingly 
a  few  swallows  at  a  time.  The  common  custom  is  to  give 
about  a  half  bucket  of  water.  The  safest  course  would  be 
to  give  less  and  repeat.  The  rule  should  be,  for  ordinary 
use,  to  give  small  quantities  often  during  the  day,  and  the 
animal  to  pursue  his  journey  or  labor  immediately  after.  If 
allowed  to  stand,  the  system  may  be  chilled.  The  absor- 
bents are  closed,  which  is  the  common  cause  of  Laminitis 
or  Founder,  although  this  disease  may  not  develop  itself 
until  twelve  or  twenty-four  hours  afterwards,  and  any  cause 
which  will  chill  the  system — either  cold  winds  or  cold 
water — while  the  animal  is  warm,  will  be  almost  sure  to 
produce  the  above  disease. 


SHOEING  HORSES. 


TRIMMING  THE  HOOF.  —  FORM  OF   SHOE.  —  How  TO   CURE 

THE   WORST    CASES     OF     CONTRACTION. NEW  TREATMENT. 

HOW     TO     CURE  ANY     CASE      OF     QUARTER-CRACK     AND 

KEEP  THE   HORSE   AT  WORK. HOW  TO   SHOE   A   STIFF    OR 

SORE   FOOTED   HORSE,   SO   THAT  HE  WILL  GO   BETTER,  &C. 

THE  damage  and  loss  to  the  people  of  the  country  from 

bad  shoeing  and  ignorance  of  the 

principles  of  keeping  the  feet  in 

health  is  almost  incalculable.    But 

few  good  horses   at  maturity  do 

not  show  marked  contraction  of 
the  feet,  with 
some  one  of  the 
difficulties  arising 
therefrom,  of 
corns,  thickening 
of  the  lateral  car- 
tilages, quarter- 
crack,  thin  weak 
heels,  and  other 
causes  of  soreness 
and  lameness  in  (No  i) 

the  feet ;  all  trace-         7  Metacarpal  or  shank  bone. 
oV>l^  f/^  Ko^l   oVino          H  Sesamoid  bones. 

able  to  bad  shoe-  12_13  The  great  pastern. 

ing  Or  ignorance   14-15  Little  pastern  or  coronary 
P ,  bone. 

of  the  nature  and      i6-coffin  bone, 
requirements     of 
Front  ^iew2'of  the  tne  f°ot  m  shoeing.     It  is  the  horses,  too, 
bones  of  the  foot,    that  are  naturally  the  best,  and  exception- 
ally valuable  on  account  of  their  great  do- 
cility and  safety,  that  are  the  greatest  sufferers  from  this 
cause.  139 


140 


SHOEING   HORSES. 


(No.  3.) 

Back  view  of  the 
bones  of  the  foot. 


In  the  horse's  foot  we  have  one  of  the  most  perfect  pieces 
of  mechanism  imaginable,  for  strength  and 
great  mobility  of  action.  The  bones  are 
united,  bandaged,  and  supported  in  the 
most  perfect  manner  by  the  tendinous 
structure,  through  and  between  which  is  a 
network  of  nerves  and  blood-vessels  ;  over 
and  surrounding  this  we  have  the  hoof,  a 
strong  covering  of  compressible  horn,  which 
grows  down,  like  the  nails  on  the  fingers, 
from  the  coronary  ring  under  the  hair,  as 
fast  as  it  would 
wear  off  on  a  grass- 
ing surface.  This 
hoof,  or  horny  cov- 
ering, comprises 
three  natural  divi- 
sions, each  having 
a  peculiarity  of 

structure  adapted  to  the  require- 
ments of  the  location. 
The    upright    wall    is 
about   three-sixteenths 
of  an  inch  at  the  heel, 
to     three  -  eighths    or 
more  of  an  inch  thick 
at  the  toe.     The  sole, 
which  extends  from  the 
point  of  the 
frog,  in  an  arched  form, 
out  to  the 
upright 
wall     and 
unites  with 

it  firmly,  forms  a  strong  elastic  arch, 
that  gives  the  most  perfect  support 
to  the  pedal  bone.     The  part  com- 
(No.  5.)  ing  immediately  under  the  centre 


(No.  4.) 

A  side  view  of  some  of  the  car 
tilages  supporting  the  joints. 
c  Interosseous,  &c. 
ee  Articular  ligaments. 
o  Outer  cartilage  belonging  to 

the  coffin-bone. 
p  The  inner  cartilage  belong- 
ing to  the  coffin-bone. 


foot.  ~    t —    — o? 

which  is  of  a  peculiar  spongy,  elas- 
tic structure,  and  fills  up  all  the  space  between  the  heels :  ex- 


SHOEING    HORSES. 


141 


tending  forward  to  the  centre  of  the  foot  is  a  continuation  of 
the  upright  shell,  which  is  bent  forward,  and  imperceptibly 
runs  into  the  sole  at  the  point  of  the  frog,  and  is  called  the 
bars.  The  spaces  between  the  bars  and  frog  are  called 
commisures,  which  are  peculiarly  sharp  but  strong  arches, 
that  commence  abruptly  at  the  heel,  uniting  the  bars  to  the 
frog,  and  running  out  imperceptibly  to  the  level  of  the  sole 
at  the  point  of  the  frog. 

These  clefts,  with  the  soft,  yielding  character  of  the  frog, 
give  a  singularly  perfect  means  of  com- 
pressible elasticity  and  security  to  the  quar- 
ters; and  with  the  soft,  spongy  frog  be- 
tween the  heels,  the  best  possible  means  of 
protecting  the  bones  and  tendons  of  the 
heel  from  being  bruised  or  injured  by  con- 
cussion against  the  ground.  The  wall  or 
upright  part  is  in  structure  like  a  bundle  of 
hairs  or  splinters  of  whalebone  glued  to- 
gether ;  the  outside  surface  being  hard  and 
bony,  while  the  inside  surface  runs  into  a 
soft,  yielding,  but  muscular  structure  that 
unites  it  to  that  of  the  coffin-bone.  This 
is  intended  to  be  worn  away  at  the  bottom 
as  it  grows.  If  it  is  not  worn  off,  it  will  ex- 
tend down  below  the  sole,  preserving  its 
own  relation  of  thickness  and  form,  and 
must  be  cut  away  with  a  knife  or  other 
means.  It  is  to  this  wall  of  horn  that  the 
shoe  is  fitted  and  united.  The  sole  and 
frog  scale,  and  break  off,  in  proportion  to  the  increase  of 
growth,  and  do  not,  when  in  health,  require  touching  by  the 
smith. 

I  have  with  me  a  manikin  of  the  foot,  showing  all  its  parts 
plainly,  —  every  bone,  tendon,  nerve,  artery,  vein,  natural 
divisions  of  the  hoof,  &c.,  —  which  enables  a  better  idea  of 
its  wonderful  mechanism  than  can  be  shown  by  cuts,  or  any 
amount  of  labored  verbal  description.  This  I  will  cheerfully 
exhibit  to  the  class,  if  desired,  and  explain  the  parts  in  detail 
to  them.  I  have  also  models  to  illustrate  the  treatment  for 
bringing  the  foot  back  to  its  natural  form  as  desired,  and  thus 
of  easily  curing  the  worst  condition  of  contraction  of  either 


(No.  6.) 

A  front  view  of  the 
tendons  of  the 
foot. 


142 


SHOEING   HORSES. 


or  both  heels  or  of  quarter-crack,  difficulties  that  have  baffled 
the  best  students  of  the  foot  heretofore  to  do  successfully. 
In  the  first  place,  we  see  that  in  trimming  and  fitting  the 
foot  for  the  shoe,  we  must  be  governed  by 
the  rule  of  cutting  away  only  the  superfluous 
horn  of  the  upright  shell,  and  only  so  much 
as  brings  the  foot  back  to  its  natural  shape 
and  bearing,  no  attention  whatever  to  be 
given  to  the  frog  and  sole,  and  that  the  hoof 
must  not  be  cut  away  enough  to  permit  the 
possible  pressure  of  the  shoe  upon  the  -sole. 
The  object  to  be  attained  in  the  form  of  the 
shoe  is  to  carry  out  as  nearly  as  we  can  by 
it  the  form  of  the  wall,  or  this  bearing  sur- 
face, so  as  to  preserve  its  freedom  and  ac- 
tion most  naturally,  and  afford  as  nearly  as 
possible  the  same  relation  of  pressure  of 
the  sole  and  frog  upon  the  ground,  and  in 
fitting  it  to  the  foot,  that  it  will  bear  evenly 
and  naturally  upon  the  wall  of  the  hoof  all 
the  way  round,  to  prevent  any  possible 
bruising  of  the  sole  or  heels.  In  nailing 
the  shoe  to  the  foot,  first,  the  shoe  must 
be  nailed  on  strong  enough 
to  hold  it  to  the  hoof  firmly 
as  long  as  desired,  special 
attention  being  given  to  pre- 
vent splitting  or  breaking 
the  horn;  second,  not  to 
bring  any  restraint  upon  the 
quarters,  so  as  to  preserve 
their  freedom  independent  of  the  shoe,  as  the 
foot  enlarges  with  growth;  third,  that  the 
nails  are  not  driven  into  the  sensitive  part 
of  the  foot,  which  would  be  a  direct  cause 
of  injury  and  lameness.  In  cutting  and  trim- 
ming the  hoof,  be  careful  not  to  cut  away  too 
much,  — just  so  much  only  as  is  necessary  to 
bring  the  foot  back  to  its  natural  shape  and 
bearing,  making  an  even  level  surface  at  least  from  a  sixteenth 
to  an  eighth  of  an  inch  higher  than  the  edge  of  the  sole. 


(No.  7.) 

View  of  the  foot 
with  the  skin 
and  hoof  re- 
moved showing 
the  arteries  and 
some  veins  of  the 
foot. 

1  Vein. 

2  Plantar  artery. 

3  Branches       to 
the    coronary    sub- 
stance and  laminae. 

4  Posterior  divi- 
sion of  plantar  ar- 
tery. 


(No.  8.) 

A  view  of  the  foot 
showing  the 
veins. 


SHOEING   HORSES.  143 

Neither  do  I  care  what  you  use  to  cut  away  the  horn  with ; 


(No.  9.)  (No.  10.) 

a  The  inside  of  the  hoof  as  seen  at  the  quarter.    6  The  a  a  The  frog, 

coronary  ring,    c  The  little  horny  plates  lining  the  crust.  b      The  sole. 

d  The  same  continued  over  the  bars,     e  e  The  two  con-  c  c   The  bars, 

cave  surfaces  of  the  inside  of  the  horny  frog.    /  That  d  d  The  crust, 
which  externally  is  the  cleft  of  the  frog,    g  The  bars. 
h  The  rounded  part  of  the  heels,  belonging  to  the  frog. 

that  is  not  a  matter  of  important  consideration  here.  But 
cutting  recklessly  until  there  is  no  horn  to  nail  to,  or  cutting 
away  the  frog,  and  scooping  out  the  sole  thin,  or  burning  the 
shoe  into  the  hoof,  should  not  be  per- 
mitted. First  take  a  general  look  at 
the  foot,  and  if  thin-shelled,  and  does 
not  grow  horn  very  fast,  be  careful 
not  to  cut  away  too  much  at  the  heel. 
Level  down  the  bearing  surface  from 
the  heel  to  the  toe,  but  not  coming 
too  near  the  level  of  the  sole  where 
it  unites  with  the  hoof.  Do  not  med- 
dle with  the  sole  or  frog.  Let  this 
scooping  out  of  the  sole,  and  trim- 
ming the  frog,  be  a  point  you  must, 
at  all  hazards,  avoid. 

The  old  horn  preserves  the  moist- 
ure, and  is  necessary  to  shield  the 
sole  from  being  bruised,  while  the  frog 
is  indispensable  for  the  protection  of 
the  heel,  and  cutting  it  away  not  only 
removes  the  natural  means  of  protec- 
tion to  the  delicate  machinery  of  the 
coffin-joint  and  tendons  above  it,  but  permits  such  rapid 


(No.  11.) 
A  view  of  sole  and  frog  of 

foot,    prepared    for   the 

shoe.     This  sole  should 

not  be  touched. 

a  The  heel  of  the  crust. 
c  c  The  quarters  of  the  crust. 
d  d  The  bars  as  they  should 
be  left,  with  the  full  frog 
between  them,  e  e  The  an- 
gles between  the  heel  and 
bars,  where  corns  appear. 
ff  The  concave  surface  of 
the  toe. 


144 


SHOEING   HORSES. 


evaporation  of  its  moisture  that  it  in  consequence  soon  be- 
comes dry  and  hard,  all  so  far  as  permitted  causing  direct 
injury  to  the  foot.  Simply  level  down  the  wall,  and  let  the 
frog  and  sole  alone.  (See  special 
reference  to  this  in  another  part  of 
this  chapter.)  Do  not  lower  the 
bars  any  more  than  the  level  of  the 
heel.  Round  off  the  sharp  edge  of 
the  toe  a  little  with  a  rasp,  but  not 
enough  to  destroy  in  the  least  the 
natural  shape  of  the  hoof.  (See 
cut,  shoe  fitted.)  You,  in  fact,  aim 
to  bring  it  back  to  its  natural  round- 
ed form.  The  shoe  should  come 
round  evenly,  flush  with  the  outer 
edge,  but  so  much  longer  and 
wider  than  the  heels,  as  you  think 
the  foot  will  grow  in  the  time 

kept  on,  before  resetting.  If  properly  done,  there  can  be 
but  little  or  no  chance  for  pressure  upon  the  sole  at  the 
angles  between  the  bar  and  heel.  Pressure  upon  this  part  of 
the  sole  must  be  avoided,  there  is  danger  of  bruising  the  sole, 
and  breaking  the  blood-vessels  beneath,  and  causing  effu- 


(No.  12.) 

A  view  of  the  foot  after  the 
hoof  had  been  stuffed  off. 


(No.  13.) 
View  of  a  healthy  hoof. 


(No.  14.) 

View  of  the  sole  and  frog  of 
hind-foot. 


sion,  which  is  to  be  guarded  against.  The  usual  cause  of 
corns  or  bruising  the  sole  here,  is  leaving  shoes  on  so  long 
that  the  growth  of  the  foot  draws  the  shoe  forward  until  the 


SHOEING   HORSES.  145 

heel  comes  directly  under  the  sole,  or  the  heel  has  been  cut 
down  so  near  the  level  of  the  sole  as  to  cause  direct  pressure 
upon  it  and  bruise  it,  or  the  heel  is  worn  down  and  broken, 
allowing  gravel  to  become  imbedded  under  the  shoe,  and 
to  press  into  the  sole  at  this  point.  A  red  spot,  or  corn,  or 
general  inflammation  of  the  heel,  is  the  result.  The  bearing 
all  around  should  be  left  sufficiently  high  to  prevent  the 
shoe  touching  or  resting  upon  the  sole.  As  to  the  SHOE, 
I  will  confine  myself  to  the  general  form  most  desirable. 
First,  the  shoe  should  in  its  form  carry  out  as  nearly  as  pos- 
sible the  natural  function  of  the  wall ;  secondly,  that  it  is  not 
so  thick  at  heel  that  it  will  not  raise  the  frog  and  sole  so  high 
as  to  prevent  some  contact  with  the  ground ;  third,  it  will 
get  sufficient  hold  upon  the  ground  to  prevent  slipping. 
The  first  condition  requires  that  the  shoe  should  approxi- 
mate exactly  to  the  bearing  surface  of  the  wall,  all  the  way 
round,  from  the  heel  to  the  toe,  and  be  so  accurately  fitting 
that  there  is  no  appreciable  space  between.  Care  should 
be  taken,  especially  at  the  heel,  from  the  turn  of  the  hoof 
back,  that  the  bearing  is  cut  or  rasped  so  that  it  is  perfectly 
flat.  Too  often  the  smith  runs  the  buttress  or  rasp  so 
recklessly,  that  this  part  is  cut  out  cup  like,  the  outside 
edge  much  the  highest,  so  that  looking  from  the  outside 
the  shoe  may  seem  to  fit  nicely;  the  consequence  would 
be,  the  rapid  breaking  down  of  this  thin  edge  of  horn,  leav- 
ing the  shoe  loose,  and  permitting  gravel  to  work  in  under 
the  heel  and  press  upon  the  sole.  The  point  is,  when  the 
shoe  is  fitted,  see  that  the  bearing  surface,  of  the  heel  espe- 
cially, be  perfectly  level,  if  any  thing  a  little  convex,  and  have 
sufficient  horn  to  support  the  hoof  perfectly. 

BAD  FITTING  OF   SHOE. 

Nine  times  out  of  ten,  upon  critical  examination,  the 
bearing  surface  of  the  shoe,  when  fitted,  will  be  found 
largely  concave  at  the  heel,  thereby  causing  a  moderate 
but  constant  pressure  of  the  quarters  together. 

Let  the  whole  surface  be  flat  and  smooth,  a  good  even 
fit,  coming  out  flush  with  edge  of  the  hoof  all  the  way 
round.  For  light  driving,  and  especially  if  the  hoof  is 
light,  the  shoe  should  be  a  thin,  flat  bar.  If  the  roads  are 
hard  and  stony,  and  the  sole  thin,  the  bar  should  be  rather 


146  BAD   FITTING   OF   SHOE. 

wide,  so  as  to  extend  over  the  sole,  but  should  be  per- 
fectly level.  This  will  greatly  protect  the  sole  from  in- 
jury. If,  on  the  contrary,  the  horse  works  on  sandy, 
gravelly  roads,  make  the  bar  rather  narrow,  which  will 
expose  the  sole  and  heel  to  constant,  but  moderate  pres- 
sure upon  the  ground.  Instead  of  a  thick-heeled  shoe, 
or  spring-heel  as  it  is  called,  when  it  is  desired  to  raise 
the  heels,  corks  should  be  used.  A  thick  heel  removes 
all  possible  pressure  from  the  sole  and  frog ;  while  heel- 
corks  raise  the  heel  all  it  is  necessary,  and  their  breaking 
into  the  ground  serves  to  lessen  the  force  of  the  concus- 
sion, and  allows  of  occasional  moderate  pressure  upon  the 


(No.  15.)    A  shoe  fitted  as  it  should  be;  comes  out  under  the  toe  flush  with  the 
hoof,  but  represents  being  drawn  under  the  heel  a  trifle  too  much. 

frog  and  sole.  All  horses  that  are  sore  and  stiffened 
should  have  the  toe  rounded.  Two  small  corks  may  be 
placed  on  each  side  of  the  toe,  on  the  under  edge,  and  the 
heel  raised  pretty  well  by  making  the  heel-corks  high.  In 
all  cases  of  the  horse  being  occasionally  lame  a  little,  at 
other  times  better,  there  is  undoubted  soreness  of  the 
heel  or  of  the  coffin-joint.  The  heel  should  be  raised  with 
a  high-heeled  shoe,  and  the  toe  rounded.  If  a  colt,  it  is 
desired  to  drive  and  work  a  little.  A  thin,  flat  shoe,  or  a 
simple  clip  nailed  around  the  toe,  would  be  just  the  thing. 
No  strictly  arbitrary  rule  can  be  given,  because  you  must 
adapt  to  the  requirements  of  the  case.  Let  the  nail-holes 


NAILING  AND   RASPING.  147 

be  where  you  can  get  the  best  hold  and  do  the  least  dam- 
age. If  the  foot  is  broken  and  weak,  I  have  the  shoe 
fitted  carefully,  but  omit  punching  the  holes.  Now  put 
the  shoe  in  place,  and  with  a  pencil  mark  where  you  can 


(No.  16.)  The  bearing  surface  as  it  should  be  made,  perfectly  level.  It  is  not 
a  matter  of  any  account  to  seat  or  lower  the  inside  edge  as  here  represented. 
If  the  hoof  is  not  trimmed  down  too  close  to  the  level  of  the  sole,  the  sur- 
face may  be  left  flat. 

get  the  best  nail-hold,  nailing  into  the  strong  horn  of  the 
toe  all  you  can.  In  thin  shoes  I  allow  no  creases  made. 
Make  the  holes  large  enough  to  let  the  head  in  deep  and 
strong.  For  light  shoes  I  prefer  steel ;  and  for  summer 
use  would  not  use  corks. 

NAILING  AND  RASPING. 

For  a  light  shoe  and  foot  .a  No.  5  globe  nail  is  heavy 
enough ;  and  if  you  will  drive  two  in  the  toe,  you  can 
drive  eight  nails,  and  not  do  any  more  harm  to  the  hoof 
than  you  would  ordinarily  with  six,  and  have  less  danger 
of  losing  the  shoe.  Any  way,  drive  the  nail  deep  enough 


148  NAILING   AND   RASPING. 

to  get  a  good  hold,  which  you  can  easily  do,  if  you  have  left 
horn  enough,  and  confine  yourself  to  nailing  on  the  out- 
side and  around  the  toe  firmly.  The  quarters  must  be 
given  all  the  freedom  possible  to  prevent  any  external 
pressure  on  them.  There  should  be  no  rasping  under 
the  clinches,  and  but  a  bare  rounding-off  of  the  sharp 
edge  at  the  toe.  The  hoof  should  not  be  cut  away  to  the 
shoe,  because  the  shoe  may  be  a  little  short,  or  sets  well 


(No.  17.)    The  ground  surface  showing  the  location  of  the  nail-holes  to  enable 
ving  all  the  freedom  possible  to  the  qua 
ere  is  no  compression  upo:i  the  quarters. 


back  under  the  toe.  Preserve  the  hoof  in  its  natural 
shape  and  bearing,  regardless  of  what  the  shoe  may  be. 
If  necessary,  smooth  off  the  clinches  a  little,  but  omit 
any  thing  like  .an  effort  to  give  the  surface  a  nice  finish 
by  rasping  the  whole  or  any  part  of  the  surface  above  the 
nail-holes,  and  the  less  below  them  the  better.  In  the 
first  place,  the  outside  of  the  shell  is  by  far  the  hardest, 
strongest,  and  toughest,  and  should  be  preserved  and  made 


THE   SHOE.  —  BEST   FORM. 


149 


use  of  all  you  can.  In  the  second  place,  rasping  away  the 
surface  permits  rapid  evaporation  of  moisture,  that  causes 
a  direct  tendency  to  make  it  dry  and  hard,  and  of  contract- 
ing it.  Hence  the  advantage  of  covering  the  hoof  and 
frog  with  a  preparation  that  will  prevent  evaporation  in 
the  treatment  of  weak,  contracted  feet.  The  outside  of 
the  hoof  should  be  let  alone  all  you  possibly  can,  doing 
nothing  for  your  foolish  idea  of  making  a  nice-looking 
foot  as  it  leaves  the  shop.  The  smith  will  usually  insist 
upon  running  the  corner  of  the  rasp  under  the  clinches  ; 
may  tell  you  he  cannot  make  a  nice  job.  Pay  no  atten- 
tion to  this  :  simply  have  the  clinches  turned  down  strong- 
ly, touch  the  rough  corners  and  edges,  no  more,  with  the 
file,  and  when  done  you  will  be  glad  you  followed  my  ad- 
vice. Shoes  should  be  reset  as  often  as  every  five  or  six 
weeks. 

THE  SHOE. -BEST  FORM. 

I  will  now  say  a  few  words  about  the  shoe ;  and  I  would 
remind  that  I  cannot  here  do  more  than  suggest  general 
principles,  the  condition  of  foot  work,  &c.,  requiring 
modification  to  suit  each  case.  The  nearer  you  keep 
the  frog  to  holding  the  same  relation  of  pressure  to 


(No.  18.) 

View  of  a  foot  that  has  been  cut  away 
too  much,  bringing  the  shoe  too  near 
the  sole,  and  the  nails  are  driven  too 
near  the  edge  ;  liable  to  split  and 
break  off,  and  spoil  the  hoof. 


(No.  19.) 

The  bearing  surface  left  so  high  that 
the  shoe  cannot  rest  upon  the  sole, 
and  showing  how  the  nails  should 
be  driven  to  get  a  good  hold ;  starts 
ed  in  deep,  but  brought  out  low. 


the  ground  that  it  had  before  shoeing,  or  before  the 
foot  has  been  meddled  with  by  the  shoer,  the  better. 
Second,  the  nearer  you  make  the  shoe  on  the  ground 
surface  the  form  of  the  rim  of  the  foot  before  being 
cut  away,  the  better.  The  toe,  you  notice,  is  always 


150  THIN-HEELED   SHOES.  —  EXPERIMENTS. 

worn  rounding  a  little  :  consequently,  to  be  exact,  let  the 
heels  be  drawn  back  rather  thin,  and  the  toe  turned  up  a 
little  in  the  order  of  a  sled-crook,  and  concave,  the  middle 
part,  and  toe  the  outer  edge  cup-shape,  touching  the 
ground  first.  Such  a  shoe  should  be  made  of  steel  to  be 
stiff  enough,  and  will  wear  much  slower  than  iron.  Soft 
iron  will  wear  out  too  quickly.  Still  better,  in  my  judg- 
ment, is  drawing  down  the  heels  of  the  shoe  to  a  wedge- 
like  shape,  so  that  there  is  just  room  enough  to  run  out 
to  an  edge  at  the  point  of  the  heel,  which  may  be  turned 


(No.  20.)  (No.  21.) 

A  view  of  a  foot  with  the  shoe  as  it     View  of  a  foot  with  the  shoe  too  short, 
should  be  fitted.  The  toe  is  not  otilv  cut  away  too 

much,  but  the  heel  is   too   short. 
Will  soon  spoil  the  foot. 

up  a  little  over  the  heel.  This  enables  all  that  is  required 
for  preserving  the  foot,  and  gives  the  sole  and.  frog  nat- 
•ural  contact  with  the  ground.  You  should  do  something 
towards  supplying  the  feet  with  moisture  when  standing 
much  in  the  stall.  The  course  I  take  during  the  day  is  to 
throw  a  little  bedding  under  the  fore-feet,  upon  which  I 
throw  water  enough  to  wet  it.  At  night  remove  this,  and 
put  in  dry  bedding,  or  you  can  mix  some  flaxseed  meal 
with  water,  and  stuff  the  feet. 

THIN-HEELED  SHOES.  -  EXPERIMENTS. 

Some  years  ago  a  well-known  veterinary  surgeon  called 
my  attention  to  experiments  made  by  a  livery  man,  who  took 
it  into  his  head  to  shoe  his  horses  with  tips,  or  thin-heeled 
shoes.  All  alike  were  shod  in  this  way.  He  said  "  many  of 
them  had  sore  and  weak  heels,  and  corns,  and  I  thought  he 
would  spoil  the  horses  by  such  shoeing,  and  driving  them  on 


THIN-HEELED   SHOES.  —  EXPERIMENTS.  151 

the  hard-paved  streets  of  the  city ;  but,  to  my  surprise,  in  a 
few  weeks  they  got  over  the  soreness,  the  feet  became  strong 
and  healthy,  and  he  had  no  trouble  with  corns  or  weak  heels." 
I  noticed,  long  ago,  that  when  the  shoe  was  worn  thin,  letting 
the  frog  and  sole  have  contact  with  the  ground,  and  espe- 
cially in  horses  that  were  worked  on  sod  that  would  give  and 
press  upon  the  heel,  the  feet  were  the  most  healthy  and  strong, 
and  less  disposed  to  contract.  I  have  noted  also  that  healthy 
feet  that  were  shod  with  thick  or  high-heeled  shoes,  that  raises 
the  frog  and  sole  from  all  contact  with  the  ground,  soon 
became  dry ;  and  if  the  foot  was  at  all  disposed  to  contract, 
there  was  a  rapid  drawing  in  or  contracting  of  the  heels. 
One  of  my  horses  had  his  shoes  worn  down  quite  thin :  the 
feet  were  in  good  condition,  though  not  over  strong,  having 
been  foundered,  and  suffered  from  contraction,  which  I  cured 
by  the  treatment  I  give  for  contraction  under  that  head. 
One  shoe  was  lost,  and  in  the  hurry  of  business  I  was  unable 
to  give  my  personal  attention  to  his  shoeing.  A  heavy, 
coarse  shoe,  with  large  heel  and  toe  corks,  was  put  on.  The 
heel  was  raised  at  least  three-fourths  of  an  inch  from  the 
ground.  I  pointed  out  at  once  the  defect,  and  said  I  in- 
tended to  have  the  shoe  replaced  by 
a  flat,  thin  shoe.  But  the  pressure  of 
business  caused  me  to  neglect  the 
matter.  In  two  weeks  that  foot  was 
quite  tender,  dry,  and  hard,  and  very 
sensibly  contracted ;  while  the  other, 
with  its  old  thin  shoe,  was  soft,  large, 
and  healthy.  I  put  on  an  ordinary 
thin,  flat  shoe,  with  bearing  surface  at 
the  heels,  a  little  convex.  I  poulticed 
the  foot  two  or  three  times  to  remove  22 

the  inflammation  and  soften  it  \  and  The  ground  surface  of  a 
in  a  short  time  the  foot  was  all  right,  SK'SjSS.^ 
looking  as  healthy  and  strong  as  the 
other.  This  past  season  I  had  a  very  intelligent  horseman 
in  my  class,  who  inquired  as  to  the  best  way  to  shoe  horses. 
I  told  him  to  keep  the  feet  natural,  bring  the  heel  to  the 
ground  :  if  dry  and  hard,  apply  moisture,  by  tying  wet  rags 
around  the  foot  and  stuffing.  Said  he,  "  That  is  just  what  I 
do."  "Then,"  said  I,  "your  horses  have  good  feet." 


152  HIGH    HEELS. 

"  Yes,"  said  he  :  "I  soon  get  the  worst  of  feet  all  right ;  but 
it  is  an  idea  of  my  own."  In  my  judgment  the  principal 
secret  of  the  success  of  the  Goodenough  shoe  is  that  the 
iron  is  so  soft  that  it  wears  down  rapidly,  and  brings  the  sole 
and  frog  to  the  ground,  and  to  the  rule  of  not  touching  the 
frog  or  sole  when  trimming  the  foot  for  the  shoe. 

HIGH  HEELS. 

But  I  would  right  here  make  an  explanation  :  If  there  is 
any  morbid  inflammation  in  the  cartilage  of  the  coffin-joint 
or  of  the  sheaths  of  the  tendons  passing  down  over  the  heel, 
especially  if  there  is  any  tendency  to  coffin-joint  lameness, 
bringing  the  heels  to  the  ground  will  make  the  horse  decid- 
edly lame.  In  this  case  you  must  raise  the  heel  high  enough 
to  prevent  contact  with  ground,  and  the  toe  should  be  ham- 
mered down  and  made  rounding  like  the  toe  of  a  shoe  well 
worn.  A  member  of  my  class  who  had 
been  in  one  of  the  car- stables  in  New 
York,  after  advising  thin-heeled  shoes, 
said  a  man  came  to  that  stable  while  he 
was  there,  and  talked  that  system  into 
the  president  of  the  company ;  and  he 
was  employed  to  shoe  all  the  horses 
on  that  plan.  I  asked  him  if  he  shod 
all  alike;  and  he  said,  "Just  alike." 
"Then,"  said  I,  "you  had  quite  a 
Bearing  surf  ace  of  a  shoe,  number  that  became  dead  lame,  while 
of0the\min!oie0sc.ati°n  the  others  did  better."  He  said  that 
was  so.  I  then  explained  that  those 
having  any  tendency  to  coffin-joint  lameness  got  badly  lame  ; 
and  that  such,  instead  of  a  low  heel,  should  have  high  heels 
and  round  toes  to  remove  pressure  from  the  frog,  and  aid 
the  mobility  of  the  foot.  He  had  an  idea,  but  no  knowl- 
edge of  principles  back  of  it,  and  was  consequently  a  dan- 
gerous authority  to  be  guided  by. 

CONTRACTION. 

The  hoof  is  a  shell  of  yielding  horn ;  and  when  it  becomes 
dry  and  hard,  grows  smaller,  and  presses  upon  the  structure 
of  the  foot  within,  as  a  boot  that  becomes  dry  and  crisped 
is  drawn  down  tightly  upon  the  foot.  The  result  is  inflam- 


CONTRACTION. 


153 


mation  and  injury,  that  ultimately  destroys  the  action  and 
vitality  of  the  parts.  I  will  not  stop  to  designate  the  various 
causes  of  contraction,  more  than  to  say  that  badly-fitting, 
thick-heeled  shoes,  that  raise  the  sole  and  frog  from  all  possi- 
ble pressure  upon  the  ground,  nailing  so  far  back  in  the 
heels  as  to  prevent  spreading  of  the  foot  as  it  grows,  badly- 
fitting  shoes,  and,  I  will  add,  standing  in  narrow  stalls,  on 
dry  planks,  all  contribute  more  or  less  directly  to  this  cause. 
Then,  too,  there  is  a  frequent  contraction  only  of  one  heel,  or 
of  one  more  than  the  other.  All  pedestrians  are  careful,  as 
a  primary  condition  of  success,  that  the  shoes  fit  easily  and 
perfectly  to  the  feet.  The  soles  are  broad  and  long,  the  heels 
low  and  wide,  the  uppers  soft  and  easy,  with  no  pressure 
upon  the  toes.  Even  the  stockings  are  selected  with  great 
care.  They  must  be  free  from  seams  or  wrinkles.  The  foot 
is  supported  as  nearly  natural,  and  kept  so,  as  possible.  This 
is  what  we  must  aim  to  do  in  shoeing  the  horse's  foot ;  and  now 
we  will  come  to  the  best  way  of  doing  this.  The  first  step 
towards  curing  contraction  is  to  remove  the  cause ;  secondly, 
the  use  of  such  means  as 
will  bring  the  quarters 
back  to  their  natural  form 
and  condition  most  nat- 
urally and  easily.  I  will 
first  give  the  best  pallia- 
tive means,  which  does 
not  require  much  care 
and  skill  to  do.  The  sec- 
ond requires  a  nicer  de- 
gree of  skill,  but  will 
enable  curing  easily  the 
worst  cases  of  contraction 
of  either  or  both  heels. 
The  same  principle  will 
enable  curing  with  ease 
and  certainty  any  case 
of  quarter-crack.  First, 
poultice  the  foot  thor- 
oughly, until  soft,  and  will 
cut  easily ;  next  cut  down  the  foot  until  ajl  excessive  growth 
is  removed.  If  the  sole  is  thick  with  old  horn,  cut  it  away 


(No.  24.) 

A  convex  shoe.  The  bearing  surface  is 
from  a  sixteenth  to  an  eighth  of  an 
inch  lower  at  the  outer  edge  of  the 
bearing  surface  where  the  outside  of 
the  heel  rests.  Should  be  fitted  care- 
fully. 


154     CONVEX  SHOE  FOR  CURING  CONTRACTION. 

with  a  sharp  English  shave  that  is  ground  sharp  on  both 
sides ;  cut  down  carefully  between  the  bar  and  frog,  espe- 
cially well  back  towards  the  point  of  the  heel ;  do  not  cut 
deep  enough  to  bring  blood,  yet  enough  to  let  the  quarter 
spread  or  give  easily  when  pressed  upon. 

CONVEX   SHOE   FOB   CUBING   CONTBACTION. 

Next  have  fitted  a  thin-heeled,  convex  shoe.  (See  cut.) 
Fit  it  carefully,  so  that  the  quarters  rest  nicely  on  the 
convex  surface,  without  touching  the  sole  anywhere.  The 
point  is  here  not  to  cut  the  wall  down  too  near  the  surface 
of  the  sole.  The  inner  edge  of  the  shoe  settles  into  the  horn, 
and  forms  a  shoulder  that  prevents  the  quarter  giving  to  the 
pressure  of  the  body,  as  this  will  do  when  improperly 
fitted.  Keep  the  feet  stuffed  with  flaxseed-meal  poul- 
tice, and  tie  a  wet  cloth  around  the  coronet  when  in  the 
stable.  Put  the  horse  to  work,  keep  on  such  shoes,  carefully 
fitted,  and  the  feet  kept  soft :  the  horse  will  improve  very 
rapidly,  and  all  ordinary  cases  of  contraction  will  be  easily 
cured.  This  is,  however,  but  palliative,  compared  with  the 
following  treatment,  which  enables  the  easy  and  certain  cure 
of  all  cases  of  contraction,  and  quarter-crack,  or  splitting 
of  the  quarters. 

A   SHOE   THAT  WILL  ENABLE  THE  OPENING  OF  THE 
QUABTEBS   AS   DESIRED. 

Soften  the  foot,  either  by  tying  two  or  three  thicknesses  of 
blanket  around  the  feet,  and  keeping  them  wet  with  cold 
water  for  twenty-four  hours  ;  or  fill  two  little  bags  with  bran, 
put  each  foot  into  a  bag,  tie  a  string  loosely  around  the  top 
and  leg.  Dip  each  foot  in  a  bucket  of  water  for  a  few  min- 
utes, and  afterwards  pour  on  water  to  keep  wet,  or  stand  the 
horse  with  the  feet  in  a  tub  of  moderately  warm  water  until 
soft.  Now  cut  down  the  feet  to  their  natural  shape.  There 
is  usually  a  large  accumulation  of  horn  at  the  heel :  however 
small  the  foot  may  seem,  cut  away  all  the  old  superfluous  horn, 
then  cut  down  between  the  bars  and  frog  as  before  described, 
until  the  quarters  will  give  easily  to  pressure.  Now  accu- 
rately fit  a  shoe  of  a  simple  flat  kind  to  the  hoof.  It  must 
come  out  even  and  flush  all  the  way  round,  and  at  the  heels 
be  a  little  wider  and  longer  than  the  foot.  Lay  on  the  shoe 


A  SHOE  ENABLING  OPENING  QUARTERS  AS  DESIRED.    155 


(No.  25.) 

A  view  of  a  shoe  when  fitted 
to  nail  on.  It  does  not  give 
the  exact  idea  of  the  size 
and  shape  of  the  flanges  aa 
they  should  be. 


as  intended  to  be  nailed,  and  with  a  pencil  make  a  mark  on 

the  outside,  directly  over  the  inside  of  the  bar,  at  the  point 

of  the  heel  on  each   side.      This 

done,  accurately  drill  or  punch  two 

holes  about  three- sixteenths  of  an 

inch  in  diameter  through  the  heels 

where  the  marks  were  made ;  and 

if  you  can,  the  holes  should  be  on 

the  bevel  of  the  bar  at  this  point, 

extending  up  and  back  at  the  point 

of  the  heel.     By  the  way,  particular 

care  should  be  taken  not  to  cut  any 

thing  from  the  side  of  the  bars  or 

inside  wall  of  the  heels.     Fit  two 

little  pieces  of  good  iron  or  steel, 

about  three-fourths  to  seven-eighths 

of  an  inch  long,  by  three- sixteenths 

thick,  and  about  five- eighths  of  an 

inch  wide.    Cut  down  the  end  until 

it  will  fit  the  hole  in  the  shoe,  and, 

fitted  properly,  rivet  it  in  thorough- 
ly.    You  have  now  two  clips  at  the 

inside  exactly  where  you  want 
them,  and  in  general  shape,  with 
a  little  filing  when  the  shoe  is  laid 
on,  to  come  inside  each  heel,  and 
extend  well  up  to  the  top  of  the 
arch  connecting  the  frog  with  the 
heel.  Fit  these  carefully  until 
they  will  rest  perfectly  up  against 
the  point  of  the  heel,  so  as  to 
give  an  easy  and  perfect  pressure 
with  the  full  breadth  and  length 
of  the  iron  against  the  horn  ;  but 
the  end  must  not  touch  the  soft 
part  above.  Weaken  the  shoe  on 
each  side  at  the  turn  of  the  foot, 
until,  with  sufficient  pressure,  it 
will  bend  there  and  at  no  other 
place.  This  is  done  by  filing  a 

notch  in  each  side,  as  shown  in  cut.     Put  on  in  place,  and 

nail  down  firmly.    (See  cuts  of  shoes  and  fitting.) 


(No.  26.) 

A  badly  contracted  foot,  with%a 
shoe  fitted  ready  to  be  spread. 


156    A  SHOE  ENABLING  OPENING  QUARTERS  AS  DESIRED. 


It  is  seen  the  heels  must  nd\v  spread  so  far  as  the  shoe 
is  opened,  and  that  you  have  the  power  to  open  the  quarters 
as  little  or  much  as  you  desire,  at  will,  with  the  spreaders. 
You  can  put  the  tongs  between  the  heels,  and  spread  them ; 
but  the  difficulty  will  be  the  pressure  coming  equally  on 
both  sides ;  the  side  that  is  the  weakest,  or  filed  away  the 
most,  will  do  all  the  bending,  thereby  bringing  pressure  only 
no  the  quarter  outside  the  part  so  bending  outward.  This 

will  not  do ;  for  we 
must  not  only  be  ex- 
act in  fitting  this  form 
of  shoe  in  the  first 
place,  but  we  must  be 
equally  exact  in  our 
ability  to  open  either 
or  both  quarters  as  lit- 
tle or  much  as  we  de- 
sire, with  certainty. 
And  this  little  point, 
small  as  it  may  seem, 
caused  me  a  great 
deal  of  trouble  to  de- 
vise a  means  to  do. 
The  spreaders  are  the 
result  of  the  effort,  the 
idea  of  which  the 
reader  can  easily  catch 
from  the  engraving, 
and  make  the  cure  of 
contraction  easy  and 
sure.  This  illustration 
does  not,  however, 
give  the  right  propor- 
tions, the  part  to  the  right  from  the  fulcrum  of  bearing  against 
each  other  to  the  part  resting  against  the  heel  appearing  too 
long.  With  this  simple  means  of  getting  a  strong  lever- 
power  upon  each  heel,  outward,  independent  of  the  other, 
we  can  open  the  heels  with  great*  ease,  as  we  desire.  I 
would  caution  you  not  to  spread  too  much  when  the  shoe  is 
first  put  on,  which  you  will  be  liable  to  do  because  you  can 
do  it  so  easily,  or  at  any  time  afterwards.  Measure  accu- 


(STo.  27.) 

The  spreaders  as  they  are 
placed  to  spread  one  heel 
independent  of  the  other. 
See  models  carried  by  the 
author  for  inspection. 


A  SHOE  ENABLING  OPENING  QUARTERS  AS  DESIRED.     157 


rately  the  distance  between  the  heels  of  the  shoe.  The 
quarter  that  is  contracted  most  first  open,  but  not  over  an 
eighth  of  an  inch;  then  open  the  other  about  half  that 
space.  You  cannot  with  safety  spread  the  heels  more  than 
three-sixteenths  of  an  inch  at  a  time,  and  either  quarter  not 
over  an  eighth  of  an  inch.  If  you  spread  the  quarters  the 
least  too  much  you  may  cause  violent  inflammation,  which 
must  be  arrested  promptly.  About  an  hour  after  the  quar- 
ters are  spread,  examine  the  horse  carefully ;  and  if  the  foot 
is  sore,  with  a  hammer  knock  back  the  side  bent  too  much, 
to  remove  the  pressure.  Next,  put  the  foot  in  cold  water, 
or  tie  a  wet  rag  around  it ;  the 
inflammation  will  subside  very 
quickly.  Every  few  days  spread  a 
little  more,  not  over  an  eighth  of  an 
inch  at  a  time,  until  the  quarters 
are  spread  as  far  as  you  desire, 
and  the  foot  is  brought  back  to 
its  natural  shape.  A  shoe  of  the 
form  described  for  the  cure  of  con- 
traction should  not  *  be  thick  nor 
heavy,  just  what  is  necessary  for 
strength  to  support  the  strain  upon 
it.  The  heels  should  not  be  over  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  to  allow 
the  frog  having  contact  with  the 
ground.  If  in  the  winter,  and  corks 
are  necessary,  fit  the  shoe  first, 
corks,  &c.,  as  you  desire  ;  then  drill 
the  holes  in  place  up  near  the 
corks.  It  is  very  easily  done,  and  can  be  fitted  to  a  hair, 
and  no  one  can  detect  any  unusual  form  of  shoe,  when  on, 
unless  attention  is  called  to  it.  The  principle  of  weakening 
the  shoe  on  each  side  well  forward  in  the  toe,  and  turning 
the  inside  of  the  heels  up  in  the  form  of  clips,  to  rest  against 
the  inside  of  the  bars  at  the  heel,  is  well  known.  It  is  next 
to  impossible  to  fit  this  form  of  the  shoe  to  the  foot.  If  in 
the  least  too  large  or  small,  it  would  be  all  out  of  shape. 
I  tried  it  over  and  over  again,  and  gave  up  in  despair.  With 
a  tongs  or  screw,  the  pressure  being  equal  on  both  quarters, 
there  was  usually  a  too  violent  strain  of  the  quarter  from  the 


(No.  28.) 

The  foot  with  the  heels  opened 
by  the  expansion  shoe. 


158 


QUARTER-CRACK. 


toe  back,  while  perhaps  the  opposite  was  not  disturbed.  It 
was  an  idea ;  but  so  crude  and  difficult  to  put  in  practice,  that 
with  all  the  care  and  patience  I  could  use,  I  could  not  make 
it  work  as  I  desired,  and  it  is  almost  sure  to  make  the  horse 
violently  lame.  The  improvements  I  have  made  are,  first, 
in  weakening  at  the  turn  of  the  hoof,  between  the  toe  and 
heel,  adjusting  the  clip  with  exactness  after  the  shoe  had 
been  fitted,  which  enables,  too,  a  full,  broad,  naturally  fitting 
clip,  just  where  it  is  desired  to  be ;  and  lastly,  a  thin  shoe, 
that  will  give  the  frog  some  pressure  upon  the  ground ;  and 
finally,  the  form  of  the  spreaders,  which  enables  opening 
either  side  independent  of  the  other,  with  the  greatest  exact- 
ness and  certainty  of  result,  gives  us  just  what  we  want  to 
cure  contraction  and  quarter-cracks,  or  splitting  of  the  quar- 
ters. When  it  is  seen  that  many  fine  horses  have  such  severe 
contraction  of  the  feet  as  to  virtually  ruin  them,  and  that 
there  was  no  practical  way  known  of  giving  easy  or  sure 
relief,  we  can  realize  the  value  of  this  simple  contrivance  for 
opening  the  quarters  as  we  now  can  do. 

QUARTER-CRACK. -- HOW  TO   CUKE   ANY  CASE. 

Blind  Billy  burst  his  quarter  severely.  Previously,  by 
opening  the  quarter,  making  a  crease  across  at  the  edge  of 
the  hair,  and  keeping  the  foot  soft,  and 
stimulating  its  growth,  I  had  no  trouble 
in  growing  down  the  hoof  sound.  But  in 
this  case  the  ground  was  so  hard,  rough, 
and  frosty,  in  connection  with  the  great 
extent  of  the  split,  in  spite  of  the  utmost 
precaution  and  care,  the  horn  would  split 
back  as  fast  as  it  grew  down,  until  it  was 
split  almost  to  the  ground.  I  knew  the 
hoof  split  because  too  small  for  the  parts 
within;  that  this  pressure  caused  the 
hoof  to  burst ;  and  so  long  as  this  con- 
tinued, cure  was  practically  impossible. 
Cutting  down  between  the  bar  and  frog, 
and  weakening  the  quarter,  so  that  it 
would  spread,  would  not  do  it.  I  was 
driven  to  the  resources  of  my  ingenuity  to 
overcome  the  difficulty.  The  usual  remedy  for  the  cure  of 


(No.  29.) 

Cut  of  shoe  for  quarter- 
crack. 


QUARTER-CRACK.  159 

quarter-crack  is  to  put  on  a  bar-shoe,  make  a  crease  with 
a  hot  iron  across  at  the  edge  of  the  hair,  and  keep  the  foot 
soft  and  grow  it  down.  All  this  I  had  tried,  and  knew  its 
value  exactly.  Opening  the  quarter,  so  as  to  let  the  hoof 
give  to  the  pressure  upon  the  edge  of  the  horn  was  before 
entirely  effective ;  but  in  this  case,  with  the  utmost  care, 
it  would  not  do.  I  was  at  my  wit's  end,  when  one  night 
it  occurred  to  me  how  to  contrive  the  shoe,  so  as  to 
spread  the  quarter  out,  and  remove  all  possible  pressure 
upon  it.  Next  day  I  fitted  one,  as  explained  for  contraction, 
fitting  a  clip  or  spur  to  the  side  of  the  quarter-crack.  I  nailed 
on  the  shoe  firmly,  and  on  the  opposite  side,  well  back  to  the 
heel,  and  spread  the  quarter  out  all  I  dared.  I  repeated 
this  spreading  two  or  three  times;  and,  though  the  horse 
was  driven  and  used  as  usual,  and  is  the  hardest  horse  on 
his  feet  of  any  I  ever  saw,  —  the  shell  being  very  thin,  and 
he  being  blind,  striking  the  ground  very  hard,  —  the  foot 
grew  down  sound.  Repeated  trials  with  the  same  treatment 
since  have  proved  to  me  that  the  remedy  is  complete.  No 
matter  how  hard  the  horse  is  driven  or  used,  the  hoof  will 
grow  down  without  any  inclination  to  split  the  new  growth 
of  horn,  until  the  hoof  is  grown  down  sound.  I  cut  away 
the  edges  of  the  horn  where  it  is  split,  so  that  gravel  or  dirt 
cannot  imbed  between,  and  then  spread  the  quarter  out- 
ward, sometimes  covering  the  crack  with  a  little  resin  and 
tallow.  I  was  so  successful  by  this  contrivance  for  opening 
and  holding  the  quarter  spread  for  the  cure  of  quarter- crack, 
that  I  was  led  to  try  it  upon  one  of  my  horses  that  had  the 
heels  drawn  in  badly.  I  fixed  both  sides  of  the  shoe  to  be 
spread,  and  put  on  carefully.  It  worked  perfectly.  I  was 
able  to  open  the  quarters  as  I  pleased,  and,  in  two  months, 
opened  the  quarters  fully  an  inch,  making  a  complete  change 
in  the  horse's  action.  Of  course  I  could  have  opened  the 
heels  all  I  pleased  at  once  ;  but  this  would  not  do,  as  violent 
inflammation  would  follow  opening  either  quarter  in  the  least 
too  much  at  once.  You  must  spread  a  little  more  every  day 
or  two,  until  the  point  desired  is  accomplished. 

The  primary  cause  of  quarter-crack  is,  that  the  hoof  is  sim- 
ply too  small  for  the  internal  structure  of  the  foot.  The  quar- 
ters always  burst  during  dry,  hot  weather,  or  dry,  freezing 
weather,  when  the  ground  is  hard,  causing  severe  strain  and 


160  QUARTER-CRACK. 

concussion.  The  quarter,  if  drawn  in  a  little,  is  then  liable 
to  split,  and  always  on  the  inner  side,  because  the  shell  is 
there  thinnest  and  weakest.  Simply  open  the  heel  on  the 
side  split  between  the  bar  and  frog,  cutting  well  down,  but  not 
to  bring  blood.  Put  on  the  form  of  shoe  described,  and  spread 
the  quarter  enough  to  remove  all  possible  pressure  upon  it. 
Crease  with  a  hot  iron  across  at  the  edge  of  the  hair,  and 
let  the  horse  go  to  his  work,  observing  to  keep  a  good  strong 
pressure  upon  the  quarter  by  repeated  spreading  of  the  shoe, 
until  the  quarter  is  natural.  To  show  the  value  and  impor- 
tance of  this  means  of  curing  contraction  and  quarter-crack, 
I  would  refer  to  the  fact  that  no  work  on  shoeing  or  the  care 
of  the  foot  published  gives  any  practical  means  of  cure  for 
contraction  and  quarter- crack.  I  read  a  report  recently 
of  a  series  of  lectures  delivered  by  Prof.  Cressy  of  Amherst 
College,  before  the  medical  students  and  farmers  in  Burling- 
ton, Vt.  The  high  standing  of  this  gentleman,  as  a  teacher 
of  veterinary  practice  and  a  lecturer,  makes  him  authority  01 
the  highest  order.  He  described  the  nature  and  cause  01 
contraction  and  quarter  in  well-chosen  language.  It  is 
caused,  he  says,  by  want  of  moisture  and  pressure  upon  the 
frog.  For  the  cure  of  contraction,  he  advised  stuffing  the 
feet  with  oil,  meal,  and  pine-tar,  moistening  them  with  cold 
water ;  and,  to  prevent  evaporation  from  the  foot,  to  cover 
the  hoof  with  an  ointment  made  of  equal  parts  of  sweet  oil, 
pine-tar,  and  mutton-tallow,  and  a  little  beeswax.  For  quar- 
ter-crack he  gave  no  treatment.  If  the  object  is  to  remove 
pressure  from  the  vascular  structure  of  the  foot,  simple 
moisture  and  preventing  evaporation  is  but  the  merest  pal- 
liative treatment.  It  is  not  treatment  by  which  the  horse  that 
is  crippled  can,  in  any  practical  sense,  be  cured ;  for,  once 
the  heels  are  turned  in,  they  will,  like  the  nail  of  the  toe,  keep 
inclined  more  and  more  to  grow  in  unless  mechanically  con- 
trolled. Certainly  this  is  no  practical  treatment  for  quarter- 
crack.  The  hoof  can  be  preserved  easily  enough,  as  it  grows 
down,  from  splitting,  by  keeping  the  animal  in  a  stall ;  but 
the  hoof  grows  down  as  it  was  before.  The  cause  remains 
of  the  heel  being  drawn  in,  making  the  hoof  too  small ;  so 
that,  as  soon  as  the  horse  is  put  to  work,  and  the  hoof  be- 
comes dry,  it  is  liable  to  burst  at  any  time. 

No  amount  of  stuffing  or  moisture  will  remove  pressure 


CORNS.  161 

from  the  coronet  and  quarter  after  the  feet  are  once  sensibly 
contracted,  and  no  care  in  fitting  a  shoe  to  make  the  bearing 
of  the  heels  level,  or  bring  pressure  upon  the  frog  by  the  use 
of  a  bar-shoe,  will  in  a  practical  sense  give  relief.  Mr.  Bon- 
ner  would,  I  think,  smile  at  such  treatment.  I  am  aware  a 
great  deal  of  mischief  has  been  done  by  parties,  who,  without 
any  scientific  knowledge,  cut  or  saw  recklessly  into  the  heel 
between  the  bar  and  frog,  and  spread  the  quarters  violently, 
thereby  causing  violent  inflammation,  an  injury  that  would 
cause  the  animal  great  tortures  and  endanger  tetanus.  Where 
there  is  no  regard  for  the  use  of  the  horse,  the  horn  may  be 
cut  away  to  almost  any  extreme ;  and  by  allowing  pressure 
of  the  frog  and  sole  upon  the  soft  ground  the  heels  must 
grow  wide  with  the  new  accumulation  of  horn,  and  a  cure  will 
be  almost  certain.  But  if  we  can  do  all  this  easily  and  safely, 
and  preserve  the  hoof  as  well  as  retain  the  use  of  the  horn, 
as  we  now  can  do,  it  is  much  better  and  safer  treatment ; 
but  what  is  surprising  to  the  writer  is,  that  so  high  an  author- 
ity as  the  gentleman  referred  to  would  not  say  something 
about  the  principles  of  giving  direct  relief  to  the  pressure 
upon  the  internal  structure  of  the  foot  now  shown  so  neces- 
sary and  valuable  to  prevent  and  cure  contraction  by  me- 
chanically removing  the  cause,  as  shown  by  the  success  of 
Mr.  Bonner  especially,  whose  success  and  skill  in  this  field 
of  study  are  beyond  question.  I  really  desire  to  benefit  the 
farmers  and  horse-owners  who  honor  me  with  their  attention  j 
and  I  will  be  glad  to  make  these  difficulties  plainer  to  them 
by  such  explanations  as  I  am  able  to  give,  personally,  with 
aid  of  apparatus. 

CORNS 

Appear  at  the  angle  of  the  inner  heel :  they  are  usually 
caused  by  the  shoe  being  worn  so  long  that  it  is  drawn  for- 
ward under  the  quarter,  and  presses  upon  the  soft  horn  of 
the  heel.  This  undue  pressure  bruises  and  breaks  the  blood- 
vessels, leaving  a  red  spot.  This  bruise  is  the  same  as  any 
other  simple  bruise  of  the  sole.  More  or  less  inflammation 
may  result,  and,  if  allowed  to  go  on,  may  cause  suppuration. 
The  first  and  most  important  step  towards  a  cure  is  to 
remove  pressure  from  the  part.  The  shoe  must  not  be 
allowed  to  press  upon  it.  If  we  raise  the  shoe  from  the 


162 


INTERFERING. 


heel,  or  cut  away  the  heel  near  the  corn,  to  remove  the  pres- 
sure of  the  shoe  from  it,  the  in- 
creased  pressure  upon  the  horn  near 
there  breaks  it  down,  and  permits 


(No.  30.) 

Bar-shoe  to  enable  remov- 
ing pressure  from  the 
corn. 


(No.  31.) 
Testing  for  corn. 


(No.  32.) 
New  corn. 


the  shoe,  as  before,  to  rest  upon  the  sensitive  part,  and  the 
difficulty  is  made  thereby  worse.  The  only  true  way  now 
to  prevent  pressure  upon  the  part,  is  to  use  a  bar-shoe, 
which  will  enable  entire  relief 
to  the  quarter  by  throwing 
pressure  upon  the  frog,  and 
thereby  holding  the  shoe 
away  from  the  heel. 

If  there  is  much  inflam- 
mation, poultice.  If  an  or- 
dinary red  spot  or  corn,  cut 
it  out  pretty  well.  Put  on  a 
little  pitch  and  tallow  hot, 
or  a  little  butter  of  anti-% 

mony.  Spread  a  little  tow  over  it  to  keep  out  gravel  and 
dirt,  and  put  on  a  bar-shoe,  being  careful  there  is  no  pres- 
sure upon  the  part. 

INTERFERING. 

Some  horses  travel  so  close  that  the  least  neglect  of 
having  the  shoe  well  under  the  quarter,  and  the  part 
nicely  dressed  down,  would  cause  a  bruising  and  cutting 
of  the  opposite  ankle.  The  shoe  should  be  so  formed 
and  fitted  as  to  come  well  under  the  hoof.  To  do  this 
well,  that  side  of  the  shoe  should  be  made  rather  straight, 


(NO.  33.) 
Situation  and 
appearance 
of    an   old 


WEAK   HEELS. 


163 


(No.  34.) 
A  shoe  for  interfering. 


with  the  web  narrow,  and  the  nail-holes  well  forward  in 
the  toe  ;  at  all  events,  there  must  be  no  nails  driven  into 
that  part  of  the  hoof  that 
strikes,  as  the  clinches  will 
be  likely  to  cut.  If  the 
toe  cork  is  set  well  round, 
on  the  inside  of  the  toe, 
and  the  foot  is  so  pared, 
or  the  shoe  is  so  formed 
that  the  bearing  of  the  in- 
side of  the  foot  is  raised  somewhat,  there  will  be  a  tendency 
in  the  ankle  to  be  thrown  out  when  borne  upon.  But  the 
great  object  is  to  have  the  shoe  fitted  and  filed  smoothly, 
and  set  well  under  the  part  hitting,  so  that  after  the  hoof 
is  rasped  off  all  it  is  prudent  to  do,  and  rounded  down 
carefully,  the  shoe  sets  far  enough  under  not  to  endanger 
its  cutting,  yet  supports 
the  hoof,  and  gives  a  nat- 
ural bearing  to  the  foot. 
The  chief  danger  will  be 
that  some  portion  of  this 
part  of  the  shoe  will  be 
made  to  extend  beyond 
the  hoof,  and  the  shoe  be 
fitted  and  put  on  so  rough- 
ly that  it  can  scarcely  be 
said  to  be  fitted  any 
smoother  or  better  than 
is  usually  done,  without  regard  to  such  a  purpose.  It  is 
always  best  to  keep  the  bearing  natural  by  trimming  the 
foot  level,  and  making  the  shoe  of  an  even  thickness,  but 
set  it  under  and  file  smoothly.  If  this  will  not  do,  raise 
the  inside  a  little.  Driving  young  horses  to  sulky  will 
often  cause  interfering ;  getting  a  horse  in  good  condition 
will  often  overcome  the  difficulty.  If  the  ankles  are  cut 
or  sore,  they  should  be  protected  with  pads  until  well.  If 
the  owner  values  the  animal  highly,  he  should  give  such 
shoeing  his  personal  attention. 

•WEAK  HEELS. 

Cutting  down  too  close,  and  fitting  the  shoes  roughly,  so 
that  the  horn  wears  and  breaks  down  the  heels,  will  cause 


(No.  35.) 
Interfering  pad. 


(No.  36.) 

A  leather  boot  to 
protect  the  ankle. 


164  WEAK    HEELS. 

them  to  be  low  and  sensitive.  Such  feet  should  be  simply 
levelled  down  with  the  rasp  carefully,  and  the  shoe  fitted 
to  touch  every  part  of  the  bearing  surface  at  the  heels. 

In  some  cases  where  there  is  but  little  horn  at  the  heel 
to  support  the  foot,  the  whole  bottom  of  the  foot 
seems  to  be  flat  and  weak.  This  class  of  foot  is  usually 
so  weak,  and  grows  horn  so  slowly,  that  it  is  the  cause  of 
great  annoyance.  Two  points  are  to  be  accomplished  : 
First,  growing  all  the  horn  we  can,  the  want  of  which  is 
the  real  cause  of  difficulty.  Second,  supporting  the  foot 
to  prevent  bruising  or  injury.  It  is  clear,  if  the  horn  is 
not  thick  or  strong  enough,  we  must  support  it  all  we  can ; 
and,  if  there  is  not  sufficient  growth  of  horn,  we  must 
stimulate  the  growth  of  hoof  all  it  is  possible  to  do,  but 
we  must  get  a  tough,  healthy  condition  of  hoof  to  do  any 
lasting  good.  The  real  cause  of  the  weakness  is  usually 
owing  to  the  horse  being  over-heated  a  little,  leaving  a 
weak  condition  of  the  circulation.  The  hoof  grows  thin 
and  brittle,  and  the  horn  gives  out  as  soon  as  subjected 
to  the  strain  of  hard  work  or  badly  fitting  shoes.  Have 
made  a  nicely  fitting,  rather  thin,  flat  bar-shoe,  the  bar 
all  the  way  round  wide  ;  the  part  across  under  the  frog 
to  extend  well  forward  so  as  to  give  a  full,  even  support  to 
the  frog,  almost  covering  it.  (If  the  heels  are  spreading, 
which  some  weak  feet  of  this  kind  do,  nail  well  back 
in  the  quarter,  or  turn  up  little  clips  at  each  quarter  to 
press  gradually,  but  firmly,  upon  them.)  The  shoe  should 
be  fitted  very  carefully ;  yet  no  horn  is  to  be  cut  away 
more  than  to  level  the  wall.  Next  fit  a  piece  of  thin,  hard 
leather,  and  put  between  the  shoe  and  foot,  and  nail  the 
shoe  on  carefully.  If  the  whole  bottom  of  the  foot  could 
be  supported  perfectly  with  rubber,  it  would  be  just  the 
thing ;  but  I  never  saw  any  thing  of  the  kind,  that,  in  a 
practical  sense,  could  be  depended  upon.  In  the  first 
place,  nailing  the  shoe  on  tight  enough  to  hold  destroys 
its  elasticity;  second,  it  wears  out  too  quickly.  A  cast 
should  be  taken  of  the  bottom  of  the  foot,  so  that  it 
would  be  a  perfect  support ;  then  a  flat  shoe  nailed  care- 
fully over  it,  or  have  made  an  ordinary  shoe  with  good 
wide  bar,  but  not  over  thick;  have  next  fitted  to  the 
inside,  resting  upon  the  inner  edges  of  the  shoe  at  the 


LINIMENT   FOR   HEELS.  165 

heel  and  toe,  and  fastened  to  it  firmly,  a  piece  of  thin 
steel  or  piece  of  saw-plate,  the  whole  to  form  a  flat,  even 
surface.  Fit  this  to  the  foot  as  nicely  as  you  can,  and  nail 
it  on  firmly.  Now  take  some  oakum  saturated  with  oil  of 
tar,  reduced  with  a  little  oil ;  the  oil  of  tar  itself  being 
too  stimulating.  Stuff  the  oakum  between  the  shoe  and 
sole  until  there  is  an  equal  firm  pressure  upon  the  whole 
sole  and  frog.  Remember,  however,  it  is  unnatural  to 
have  the  frog  and  sole  covered :  thrush  may  result,  but  we 
choose  the  least  evil  for  the  time  until  we  can  grow  horn. 
The  best  thing  I  have  found  to  grow  a  good,  healthy  con- 
dition of  horn,  and  keep  the  hoof  soft  and  elastic,  is  the 
following  — 

LINIMENT  FOB  SORE,  CONTBACTED,  AND  WEAK 
HEELS. 

Venice  turpentine,  half  pint ;  aqua  ammonia,  two  ounces ; 
salts  of  nitre,  one  ounce  ;  benzoin,  one  ounce  ;  alcohol, 
three  ounces :  apply  to  the  edge  of  the  hair,  and  all  over 
the  foot,  two  or  three  times  a  week.  This  will  grow  the 
hoof  rapidly,  and  make  good,  healthy  horn.  A  mild 
blister  to  the  heel  and  coronet,  repeating  as  you  would  an 
ordinary  ointment  for  a  month  or  two,  will  grow  horn 
rapidly  by  exciting  circulation  to  the  coronary  ring  from 
which  the  horn  is  grown  j  but  it  should  be  followed  up 
with  the  above  liniment. 

BREAKING  DOWN  OF  THE  SOLE. 

If  a  horse  is  foundered,  and  inflammation  is  allowed  to 
go  on,  the  connection  of  the  hoof  and  coffin-bone  is  liable 
to  give  way,  and  break  the  sole  down.  It  is  evident,  if  the 
sole  is  weak,  and  unable  to  support  the  weight  of  the  body, 
there  is  but  one  alternative :  it  must  be  supported,  and  we 
must  now  study  how  to  do  this  best.  Have  made  a  good 
strong,  flat  shoe,  with  bar  across  the  centre  of  the  sole 
well  forward  towards  the  toe.  To  do  this,  weld  in  a  piece 
of  flat  iron,  which  should  come  a  little  lower  than  the  sur- 
face of  the  shoe,  according  to  the  foot. 

Fit  on  the  shoe  carefully,  and  nail  on  firmly ;  now  fit  a  piece 
of  leather  under  the  sole ;  over  this  piece  of  iron,  across 
the  sole,  pour  in  a  solution  of  tar  and  tallow  to  cover  the 


166     PRICKING   OR   DRIVING   A   NAIL    INTO   THE   FOOt. 

sole  ;  put  in  the  leather  over,  and  now  comes  the  important 
point.  Drive  wedges,  nicely  fitted,  between  the  iron  and 
leather,  all  you  dare,  to  cause  a  strong  but  even  pressure 
upon  the  sole  under  the  pedal  or  coffin-bone.  What  next  ? 
Keep  down  inflammation  by  poulticing ;  but  keep  an  even, 
firm  pressure  upon  the  sole  until  inflammation  subsides,  and 
the  sole  remains  in  its  natural  position. 

Of  course  success  will  depend  largely  upon  the  care  and 
skill  with  which  this  is  done.  If  there  is  not  too  much  dis- 
organization, you  can  make  a  reasonably  good  foot.  See 
that  no  matter  was  retained  under  the  sole  or  hoof.  Cut 
away  the  horn,  and  make  an  outlet  if  necessary,  and  dress 
as  any  simple  incised  wound. 

PRICKING   OB  DRIVING   A   NAIL  INTO   THE   FOOT. 

Be  very  cautious  about  letting  the  smith  drive  the  nails 
too  deep  into  the  foot.  Sometimes  the  shoe  is  too  short ; 
and  to  remedy  the  matter  it  is  set  back  so  far  under  the  toe 
as  to  endanger  driving  the  nails  into  the  sensitive  part  of 
the  foot.  You  should  not  on  any  account  allow  such  a  shoe 
put  on,  and  the  hoof  cut  down  to  it ;  but  if  you  see  the  horse 
flinch  sharply  when  the  nail  is  driven,  and  it  is  at  all  deep, 
have  it  pulled  out,  and  leave  that  hole  without  a  nail.  If 
after  a  few  hours,  or  next  day  after  being  shod,  the  horse 
points,  or  is  lame,  there  is  cause  for  alarm.  Put  your  hand 
gently  upon  the  hoof,  and  see  if  you  can  detect  any  unusual 
heat ;  next,  get  a  hammer  or  stone,  and  tap  around  over  the 
nails  carefully  until  there  is  a  flinch,  and  you  detect  soreness 
and  heat  plainly ;  have  the  shoe  at  once  removed,  pulling 
out  the  nails  carefully,  cut  down  to  where  the  nail  strikes 
the  quick,  enough  to  make  room  for  any  matter  that  may 
have  formed  to  escape ;  then  poultice  the  foot  with  flax- 
seed  meal  until  the  inflammation  is  reduced,  when  a  little 
tar,  resin,  or  tallow  should  be  put  on  the  opening,  filled  up 
with  a  little  tow,  to  prevent  gravel  or  dirt  getting  in,  and  put 
the  shoe  on  again. 

SHOEING   SORE   AND   LAME   HORSES. 
If  the  horse  is  simply  stiff  and  sore,  we  will  suppose  the 
result  of  chronic  founder,  make  a  simple  flat  shoe.     Raise 
the  heels  with  heel  corks,  and  round  the  toe  something  like 


SHOEING   SORE  AND  LAME   HORSES. 


167 


(No.  37.) 

A  shoe  with  a  high  heel  and 
the  toe  rounding,  without 
a  toe  cork,  for  a  sore, 
stiffened  horse,  or  one 
that  has  any  soreness  or 
inflammation  in  the  coffin- 
joint.  The  heel  must  be 
raised  from  the  ground 
and  the  toe  rounded  to 
aid  mobility. 


a  sled-runner  or  worn  off  like  an  old  shoe.  (See  cut.)  You 
thereby  aid  mobility  by  helping  the  foot  to  turn  easily  on 
the  ground,  and  will  enable  travel- 
ling much  easier.  If  in  winter,  and 
you  must  have  corks  forward,  have 
two  set  in  at  the  back  edge  of  the 
toe  on  each  side,  which  will  allow 
the  same  freedom  of  rolling  to  the 
foot.  If  the  horse  is  OFF  AND  ON 
LAME,  and  seems  to  go  worse  when 
he  loses  his  shoe,  and  is  off  and  on 
lame,  there  is  more  or  less  inflam- 
mation in  the  heel  or  in  the  coffin- 
joint.  In  this  case  put  on  a  high- 
heeled  shoe  with  no  toe  cork,  and 
in  addition,  round  the  toe.  If  there 
is  a  thickening  or  inflammation  of 
the  tendons  on  the  back  of  the  leg 
below  the  knee,  run  your  ringers 
down  the  tendons ;  and  if  there  is  found  slight  heat  and  en- 
largement, or  in  the  ankle,  put  on  a  high-heeled  shoe.  If  a 
strain  of  the  ankle,  bandage  lightly,  and  keep  wet  with  a  hot 
liniment  of  salt  and  vinegar;  and,  if  you  must  drive  the 
horse,  bandage  tightly  while  moving,  keeping  the  leg  wet, 
but  loosen  as  soon  as  the  stable  is  reached,  to  permit  more 
freedom  of  circulation.  If  a  good, 
healthy  foot  and  no  lameness,  put 
on  a  simple  flat  shoe  with  ethe  heel 
quite  thin,  but  the  bar  rather  wide  : 
let  the  frog  have  some  contact  with 
the  ground.  If  the  horse  is  lame 
in  the  forefoot,  —  sometimes  almost 
well,  at  other  times  quite  lame, — 
poultice  the  foot,  fit  the  shoe  care- 
fully, raise  the  heel  with  corks  round 
the  toe,  nail  on  as  lightly  as  you  can, 
no  heavy  hammering,  keep  wet,  and 
there  will  be  marked  improvement 
(see  coffin-joint  lameness),  and 
most  cases  will  get  well ;  gradually 
lower  the  heel  as  you  find  the  foot  will  bear ;  remember, 


(No.  38.) 

A  clip  or  thin  heeled  shoe, 
to  give  the  sole  and  frog 
contact  with  the  ground. 
For  contraction. 


168  SHOEING  COLTS. 

when  you  raise  the  heel,  and  throw  increased  strain  upon 
the  tendons  on  the  forward  side  of  the  leg,  you  do  it  to 
remove  pressure  and  strain  from  the  tendons,  and  soreness  at 
the  heel  or  under  the  frog.  When  the  foot  is  healthy,  keep 
the  bearing  natural,  —  a  simple  level  bearing,  preserving  the 
health,  activity,  and  strength  of  the  sole  and  frog  by  occa- 
sional possible  contact  with  the  ground.  If  the  foot  is  con- 
tracting, by  all  means  throw  the  heel  to  the  ground,  but  keep 
the  foot  soft  as  you  can,  and  use  a  convex  shoe. 

SHOEING   COLTS. 

You  should  not  shoe  colts  until  compelled  to  by  the  feet 
wearing  down  too  much.  About  the  first  thing  the  farmer 
thinks  necessary  to  do,  when  he  wishes  to  break  a  colt,  is  to 
have  big  shoes  put  on.  Remember,  at  best,  shoes  are  unnat- 
ural, and  a  cause  of  injury  to  the  feet ;  and  the  longer  the 
feet  will  wear  without  shoes,  the  better.  When  you  must  put 
on  shoes,  let  them  be  simple  flat  ones,  or  better,  little  more 
than  tips,  or  thin-heeled  shoes,  that  will  permit  about  the  same 
pressure,  or  nearly  so,  of  the  frog  upon  the  ground,  there  was 
before  being  shod,  and  nail  in  the  toe,  and  never  to  but  one 
quarter.  The  common  custom  is  to  put  on  big,  strong  shoes, 
with  high  corks,  and  nail  them  on  firmly.  The  frog  is,  in  con- 
sequence, raised  unnaturally  high  from  the  ground.  It  be- 
comes dry  and  hard  :  as  the  foot  grows,  the  quarters  are  held 
firmly  to  the  shoe,  and  cannot  spread,  or  act  naturally.  There 
is  an  unnatural  restraint  upon  the  quarters,  that  is  increased 
as  the  foot  grows.  The  feet  soon  become  hard  and  con- 
tracted, 'and,  before  being  fully  grown,  are  weakened  and 
suffering  from  some  one  of  the  common  causes  of  malformation 
and  injury  that  ruins  the  horse.  Do  not  meddle  with  your 
colt's  feet  by  putting  shoes  on  them,  so  long  as  the  feet 
remain  strong  and  good,  no  matter  how  much  you  drive  and 
use  them.  TBIM  OOMB,  FBBTf 

You  should  look  to  the  colt's  feet,  and  have  them  trimmed 
down,  if  the  hoof  is  growing  long  and  out  of  shape.  They 
are  liable  to  split  up ;  and,  if  not,  the  foot  is  likely  to  grow 
out  of  shape.  Have  them  cut  down  level,  and  round  the 
toe  a  little. 

WHAT  YOU  SHOULD   WOT   PEKMIT. 

No  rasping  of  the  outside  of  the  hoof,  no  large,  stiff  nails 


DRIVING  THE   NAILS.  169 

driven  into  a  hoof  that  is  light  and  thin,  or  into  any  ordinary 
foot,  as  they  split  and  shell  the  hoof,  and  spoil  it. 

DRIVING  THE   NAILS. 

Let  the  nails  be  driven  well  forward  in  the  toe,  or  outside 
the  toe.  See  that  the  quarters  are  not  bound  so  firmly  to  the 
shoe  that  they  are  not  free  to  spread  freely  as  the  foot  grows ; 
for  as  the  foot  grows,  it  is  just  so  far  losing  its  original  pro- 
portion with  the  shoe,  because  getting  constantly  wider  and 
longer  than  it  was  when  the  shoe  was  put  on. 

Do  not  allow,  on  any  condition,  thick,  heavy  shoes  on  a 
light,  thin-shelled  foot,  with  square  heels. 

BASPINQ  THE   HOOP. 

Do  not  allow  any  rasping,  more  than  a  little  around  the 
edge  of  the  toe,  but  any  splinters  cut  out.  The  less  filing 
and  rasping  of  the  surface  of  the  hoof,  the  better.  Do  not 
allow  the  feet  to  become  dry  and  hard.  Do  not  allow  a 
favorite,  valuable  horse  to  stand  in  a  narrow  stall  he  cannot 
move  in.  Give  room,  and  plenty  of  it. 

It  is  but  proper  the  writer  should  acknowledge  his  indebt- 
edness to  Mr.  Robert  Bonner  of  "  The  New  York  Ledger," 
and  Dr.  Bryden  of  Boston,  for  many  valuable  ideas  on  shoe- 
ing. Dr.  Bryden  is  specially  skilful  in  the  treatment  of  the 
feet,  and  I  am  only  doing  him  simple  justice  in  recommend- 
ing him  to  the  confidence  of  those  who  are  able  to  secure 
his  services.  Mr.  Bonner  is  the  most  thorough  student  of 
the  foot,  and  the  principles  of  its  care  in  shoeing,  the  writer 
has  ever  met.  A  good  many  in  the  country  think  the  editor 
of  the  famous  "Ledger,"  and  equally  famous  stable  of  trot- 
ters, is  admitted  skilful  because  wealthy ;  while  the  fact  is,  he 
is  undoubtedly  the  deepest  and  best  thinker  on  the  science 
of  shoeing  in  this  or  any  other  country.  No  other  man  has 
studied  the  causes  and  principles  of  curing  contraction  so 
thoroughly,  or  the  weight  and  form  of  construction  of  shoes 
to  harmonize  with  action  with  such  nicety.  Observing  with 
the  greatest  care  the  speed  and  action  of  each  horse,  with 
different  forms  of  shoe,  he  knows  how  to  remedy  every  de- 
fect with  precision ;  and  I  am  safe  in  saying  that  he  has  no 
peer  as  a  keen  student  of  the  points  and  conditions  of  shoe- 
ing, and  keeping  the  feet  strong  and  healthy. 


DISEASES  AND  THEIR  TREATMENT. 


I  AIM  here  to  give  you,  in  the  plainest  and  fewest  words,  an 
explanation  of  the  causes  and  symptoms  of  diseases  and  the 
best  treatment  for  cure.  All  the  best  chance  prescriptions 
I  have  obtained  during  my  experience,  I  also  give  here. 
To  obtain  reliable  treatment  for  diseases,  I  employed  one  of 
the  ablest  and  most  successful  veterinary  surgeons  in  this 
country,  at  a  large  expense  and  nearly  two  years  loss  of  time, 
to  give  me  a  private  course  of  lectures  on  the  treatment  of 
diseases  and  lameness  in  horses,  and  thus  give  me  a  practical 
knowledge  of  all  his  best  treatments  for  cure. 

There  are  but  three  diseases  to  which  horses  are  subject 
that  are  both  common  and  dangerous ;  namely,  Colic,  In- 
flammation of  the  Lungs,  and  Founder.  These  three  dis- 
eases constitute  about  nine-tenths  of  the  causes  of  loss  to  the 
farmers.  These  diseases  will  be  found  carefully  explained ; 
and  the  plainest,  simplest,  and  most  reliable  treatment  for 
each,  which  I  know  to  have  been  used  with  most  success, 
and  have  used  myself,  is  given  for  cure.  Do  not  be  con- 
fused and  dependent  upon  some  neighbor  who  presumes 
himself  competent  because  he  has  a  pet  receipt  or  two. 
I  give  you  treatment  you  can  rely  upon,  if  you  follow  it 
rigidly.  It  is  next  important  to  know  what  to  do  for 
cough,  sore  throat,  or  distemper,  cuts,  sprains,  bruises, 
&c.  Many  a  fine  horse  is  ruined,  and  exposed  to  severe  pain 
and  injury  for  weeks  and  months,  for  want  of  a  little  common- 
sense  treatment  at  the  start.  A  cut  on  the  leg,  a  simple  cork 
off  the  hoof,  neglected,  results  in  a  morbid  action  that  leaves 
an  incurable  blemish  and  injury,  which,  treated  at  first  prop- 
erly, would  not  amount  to  any  thing.  Here  you  will  get 
treatment  to  be  depended  upon  for  all  such  chance  injuries, 
and  all  the  common  diseases,  including  spavins,  ringbones, 
170 


DISEASES   AND   THEIR   TREATMENT.  171 

taking  off  bunches,  and  all  those  common  difficulties  to 
which  horses  are  subject,  which  makes  this  little  book  invalu- 
able to  horse-owners.  The  chapter  on  shoeing  should  be 
read  with  much  care.  I  have  tried  to  make  the  ideas  plain 
and  comprehensive  for  cure  ;  and  the  advice,  if  followed,  will 
save  many  a  valuable  horse  from  lameness  and  injury 
from  shoeing.  The  importance  of  keeping  the  feet  strong 
and  healthy,  the  annoyance,  damage,  and  loss  so  common 
from  ignorance  in  shoeing,  induce  me  to  make  a  special 
effort  to  make  what  is  written  on  the  subject  as  clear  and  full 
in  detail  as  I  could.  In  the  name  of  common-sense,  as  a 
matter  of  personal  interest  to  you,  see  at  least  that  your 
horses  are  not  ruined,  by  preventing  the  possible  roughness 
and  ignorance  of  the  shoer  from  a  repetition  of  his  too  com- 
mon faults. 

Believe  me  in  this,  at  least :  I  have,  at  great  expense  and 
trouble,  done  the  very  best  I  could  to  give  you  such  instruc- 
tion and  treatment  as  I  was  able  to  do,  which  time  and  expe- 
rience will,  I  am  led  to  hope,  make  you  appreciate  more 
highly. 

DR.  WILLIAM  SOMERVILLE'S  CERTIFICATE. 

"  This  is  to  certify  that  D.  Magner,  Esq.,  served  under  me 
nearly  two  years,  during  1868  and  1869,  as  an  apprentice,  to 
learn  and  be  instructed  in  the  veterinary  profession.  I  con- 
sider him  well  qualified  to  treat  successfully  all  diseases  in 
horses,  and  able  to  practise  as  a  skilful  and  competent  veteri- 
nary  surgeon. 

"WM.  SOMERVILLE, 

"  Veterinary  Surgeon. 
"  A  member  of  two  Veterinary  Colleges, 

"  and  thirty-six  years'  practice* 
"Buffalo  Horse  Infirmary,  127  Erie  St., 
"August  ist,  1869." 

Respectfully, 

D.  MAGNER. 

I  would  urge  the  necessity,  at  least  of  ordinary  prudence, 
in  preventing  colds  and  sickness  by  guarding  against  un- 
necessary exposure,  or  mercilessly  driving  until  in  a  profuse 
perspiration,  and  then  leaving  the  horse  in  some  cold,  bleak 
place,  without  more,  perhaps,  than  a  poor  blanket,  and  that 


172  DISEASES  AND   THEIR  TREATMENT. 

thrown  on  carelessly,  while  the  driver  is  perhaps  enjoying 
himself  with  his  friends  in  some  drinking  saloon,  toasting 
his  shins  while  the  poor  animal  stands  shivering  at  the  door. 
The  effect  of  such  bad  treatment  will  not  then  have  time  to 
develope  itself,  but  will  be  seen  in  a  few  hours,  or  at  farthest 
on  the  following  day.  This  is  the  common  cause  of  acute 
laminitis  (founder)  and  of  pleuro-pneumonia  (pleurisy). 
The  three  principal  points  in  the  health  of  a  horse  are  feed- 
ing, air  and  exercise.  In  the  first  place,  irregularity  of 
feeding  will  certainly  produce  disease.  (See  article  on 
feeding.)  Ventilation — the  stable  should  be  neither  too 
hot  nor  too  cold.  The  animal  will  show  the  effect  in  a  few 
days  by  coughing  or  having  slight  irritation  of  the  mucous 
membrane  of  the  throat. 

A  horse  can  take  cold  as  easily  by  going  out  of  a  cold 
air  into  a  hot  stable,  as  he  can  by  going  from  a  hot  stable 
into  cold  air,  and  vice  versa.  It  is  the  sudden  change  of 
temperature  which  produces  the  change  on  the  mucous  coat 
of  the  larynx  and  throat. 

The  clothing  of  the  horse  in  the  stable  should  be  neither 
too  hot  nor  cold.  But  if  kept  too  warm,  he  will  be  more 
likely  to  take  cold  when  he  goes  out  to  exercise  on  a  cold 
or  chilly  day.  The  stable  should  be  well  ventilated  with 
pure  air  at  all  times,  and  all  poisonous  air  and  gases,  par- 
ticularly the  ammonia,  which  is  formed  from  the  urine, 
should  be  allowed  free  egress  from  the  stable,  as  the  animal 
cannot  be  expected  to  keep  in  good  health  while  compelled 
to  inhale  such  malaria. 

Let  me  tell  you,  one  of  the  great  points  in  keeping  horses 
in  good  health  and  condition,  is  regular  feeding  and  good 
care,  being  careful,  after  a  sharp,  hard  drive,  especially  if 
there  has  been  exposure  to  wet  and  cold,  to  blanket  warmly 
— anticipate  and  look  for  a  chill,  or  being  off  of  food.  If 
so,  a  little  fever  medicine  and  a  warm  bran  mash  should  be 
given  at  once,  and  a  serious  attack  of  pneumonia  may  be 
thus  averted.  Men  who  talk  and  slash  horses  around  reck- 
lessly, I  have  a  low  opinion  of  as  horsemen.  To  keep 
horses  doing  well,  even  though  worked  hard,  requires  at- 
tention to  little  things.  If  the  road  is  heavy  or  up-hill, 
and  the  horse  shows  fatigue  or  is  warming  up  excessively, 
hold  up  and  shove,  if  necessary,  on  good  road  and  down 
grade,  aiding  and  nursing  along  by  watering  often  but  not 
much  at  a  time. 


DISEASES   AND   THEIR   TREATMENT.  173 

A  very  little  driving  without  regard  to  this  prudence  will 
soon  get  even  a  good,  hardy  horse  off  his  food,  if  not  cause 
sickness,  and  then  PROVIDENCE,  or  something  else,  is  the 
supposed  cause.  Use  all  the  care  and  prudence  you  can  in 
guarding  against  and  preventing  sickness ;  it  is  your  safest 
and  best  rule.  I  give  the  very  best  treatment  in  the  follow- 
ing pages  you  can  use  with  most  success.  The  medicine  is 
easily  obtained  and  administered."  Indeed  there  are  single 
remedies  in  this  book  I  would  not  be  without  for  one  thou- 
sand dollars. 

SPASMODIC  OOLIC. 

Colic  is  one  of  the  most  common  as  well  as  most  danger- 
ous diseases  to  which  the  horse  is  subject.  There  are  two 
forms  of  this  disease,  namely,  Spasmodic  and  Flatulent 
Colic. 

The  first  is  wholly  of  a  spasmodic  nature,  and  if  not  re- 
lieved, will,  in  severe  cases,  run  into  inflammation  of  the 
bowels,  causing  speedy  death. 

The  second,  while  exhibiting  the  same  general  symptoms, 
shows  marked  enlargement  of  the  belly,  from  generation  of 
gas,  which,  if  not  checked  and  neutralized,  results  fatally 
by  rupturing  the  diaphragm,  causing  suffocation  and  death. 

The  common  causes  of  colic  are,  application  of  cold 
water  to  the  body,  drinking  cold  water  when  in  a  heated 
condition,  costiveness,  unwholesome  food,  etc. 

Premonitory  symptoms,  are  sudden.  The  animal  paws 
violently,  showing  evidences  of  great  distress,  shifting  his 
position  almost  constantly,  and  manifesting  a  desire  to  lie 
down.  In  a  few  minutes  these  symptoms  disappear,  and 
the  horse  is  easy.*  But  the  same  uneasiness  soon  returns, 
increasing  in  severity  until  the  animal  cannot  be  kept  upon 
his  feet;  the  pulse  is  full,  scarcely  altered  from  its  normal 
condition ;  a  cold  sweat  breaks  out  over  the  body ;  temper- 
ature of  legs  and  ears  natural.  As  the  disease  advances  the 

*  NOTE. — He  may  also  act  as  if  he  wanted  to  make  water,  which  he  cannot  do, 
there  being  a  spas'modic  contraction  of  the  urethra.  Hence  the  desire  to  give 
diuretic  medicine.  Straining  in  this  way  is  usually  prompted  by  a  desire  to  re- 
lieve the  muscles  of  the  belly.  No  diuretic  medicine  should  be  given  as  the  horse 
cannot  pass  urine  until  the  attack  of  colic  ceases,  or  it  is  taken  from  him  with  a 
satheter. 

It  is  very  seldom,  even  necessary  to  use  a  catheter  In  fact,  it  is  not  necessary 
to  pay  any  attention  to  this  symptom.  As  soon  as  jelieved  of  the  colic,  the  horat 
will  paM  water  freely. 


174 


DISEASES   AND   THEIR   TREATMENT. 


symptoms  become 
more  severe,  the  ani- 
mal at  times  throwing 
himself  down  with 
force,  regardless  of 
consequences,  looks 
anxiously  at  the  sides, 
sometimes  snapping 
with  the  teeth  at  the 
sides,  looking  anxious- 
ly at  the  belly,  and 
striking  upward  with 

the  hind  feet,  showing 
First  Stage  of  Spasmodic  Colic.  almQst  the  game  symp. 

toms  as  in  inflammation  of  the  bowels.  There  are, 
however,  strongly  marked  characteristics  peculiar  to  each. 
The  better  to  point  them  out,  I  will  tabulate  them,  by  which 
the  difference  and  peculiarities  of  each  can  be  easily  deter- 
mined. 


COLIC. 

Sudden  in  its  attacks. 

Pulse,  in  the  early  stage  of  the 
disease,  not  much  quickened  or 
altered  in  its  character. 

Legs  and  ears  of  a  natural  tem- 
perature. 

Rubbing  the  belly  gives  relief. 

Relief  obtained  from  motion. 
Intervals  of  rest. 
Strength  scarcely  affected. 


INFLAMMATION  OF  BOWELS. 

Gradual  in  its  approach,  with 
previous  indications  of  fever. 

Pulse  much  quickened,  small, 
and  often  scarcely  to  be  felt. 

Legs  and  ears  cold. 

Belly  very  tender  and  painful 
to  the  touch. 

Motion  increases  pain. 

Constant  pain. 

Rapid  and  great  weakness. 


This  disease  being  wholly  of  a  spasmodic  nature,  it  mus 
be  counteracted  by  anti spasmodic  treatment;  and  laudanun* 
being  the  most  powerful  and  reliable  antispasmodic  it  is 
here  indicated. 

Treatment. — Give  from  two  to  three  ounces  of  laudanum 
and  a  pint  of  raw  linseed  oil.  If  not  better  in  an  hour, 
give  two  ounces  of  laudanum  and  the  same  quantity  of  oil 

If  there  is  not  relief  in  a  reasonable  time  after  the  second 
dose  is  given,  take  from  six  to  twelve  quarts  of  blood  from 
the  neck  vein,  according  to  the  size  of  the  horse  and  tin1 


DISEASES   AND   THEIR   TREATMENT. 


175 


severity  of  the  attack.     Always  in  bleeding  make  the  ori- 
fice large,  and  extract  the  blood  as  quickly  as  possible.     As 


Second  Stage  of  Spasmodic  Colic. 


Third  Stage  of  Spasmodic  Colic. 


bleeding  is  the  most  powerful  and  reliable  means  of  relax- 
ing the  system,  it  can  be  always  relied  upon  in  the  cure  of 
this  form  of  colic.  There  will  be  no  relapse  after  bleeding. 

SPECIAL  NOTICE.  —  To  guard  against  confusion,  and 
aid  the  reader  all  I  can,  I  would  say  here  that  in  my  prac- 
tice I  use  the  remedy  given  for  Flatulent  Colic  on  next 
page;  namely,  peppermint,  ether,  and  laudanum.  It  is 
peculiarly  valuable  to  the  non-professional  man,  because 
it  will  cure  either  or  both,  if  given  promptly.  It  is  the 
only  preparation  experience  proves  is  specific  for  Tympan- 
itis, or  Flatulent  Colic,  and  is  almost  equally  good  for 
Spasmodic  Colic.  Hence  its  peculiar  value  to  the  farmer 
who  cannot  tell  one  kind  of  colic  from  the  other,  and,  in 
the  excitement  of  a  horse  taken  suddenly  sick,  would  be 
less  likely  to  determine  correctly.  So  I  would  advise,  if 
you  have  a  favorite  horse  that  is  subject  to  colic,  to  keep 
at  least  two  doses  of  this  medicine  in  your  stable,  ready 
for  the  emergency  when  it  arises.  In  all  cases  of  Spas- 
modic Colic,  bleeding  largely  will  give  relief  and  prevent 
a  relapse.  But  to  bleed  for  Flatulent  Colic  would  cause 
almost  certain  death.  The  exact  symptoms  of*  each, 
causes  and  treatment,  are  given  under  each  head.  Prof, 
Somerville  said  in  his  lecture  on  colic,  that  he  had  killed 
hundreds  of  horses  before  he  learned  to  cure  this  form  of 
colic  with  certainty,  and  the  remedy  referred  to  here  was 
his  favorite  prescription.  I  saw  in  infirmary  practice  while 
studying,  and  during  my  experience  since,  a  great  many 
cases  treated  with  this  remedy  with  perfect  success,  and 


176  DISEASES   AND   THEIR   TREATMENT. 

it  will  be  found  invaluable.  If  the  horse  is  not  relieved 
in  thirty  to  forty  minutes,  I  repeat  the  dose,  always  with 
success.  This  form  of  colic  is  often  fatal  in  two  to  three 
hours.  I  always  keep  for  immediate  use  a  dose  or  two  of 
this  medicine. 

FLATULENT  COLIC,  (TYMPANITES.)    ^ 

Symptoms  same  as  spasmodic  colic,  with  the  difference 
of  there  being  so  great  an  accumulation  of  gas  in  the 
stomach  and  intestines  that  the  belly  is  swelled.  This  dis- 
ease will  often  prove  fatal  in  from  one  to  three  hours.  It  is 
generally  very  sudden 
in  its  attack,  often  oc- 
curring while  the  ani- 
mal is  at  work,  particu- 
larly during  warm 
weather  or  changeable 
weather  from  cold  to 
heat;  but  is  generally 
caused  by  indigestion, 
producing  gases  in  the 

bowels  Or  Stomach.*  First  Stage  of  Flatulent  Colic. 

If  to  terminate  fatally 

it  will  become  weaker  and  slower  until  it  is  almost  imper- 
ceptible. If  the  animal  is  allowed  to  fall  down  suddenly 
while  pressure  of  the  gas  upon  the  walls  of  the  stomach  is 
very  great,  there  is  probability  of  rupturing  of  the  dia- 
phragm, which  would  cause  almost  instant  death  from 
suffocation. 

Treatment. — In  the  first  place  do  not  commit  the  error  of 
bleeding  for  this  form  of  colic,  as  it  would  be  almost  sure 
death.  Second,  keep  up  evaporation  of  the  body  as  much 
as  possible  by  sweating  with  blankets.  What  would  be  still 
better,  if  available,  would  be  a  hot  bath.  If  you  have  any 
of  the  remedy  comprising  ether,  ammonia,  asafcetida,  etc., 

*NOTE.— There  are  two  locations  for  this  disease,  but  in  either  it  requires  the 
game  treatment,  as  it  is  generally  produced  by  the  same  causes — the  stomach,  colon 
and  ccecum.  When  in  the  stomach  it  will  be  distinguished  by  eructations  or  belch- 
ings  of  gas  through  the  esophagus  or  gullet.  If  from  the  co3cum  or  colon,  the 
horse  is  violently  swollen  along  the  belly,  flanks  and  sides  generally.  Pulse  is 
rarely  disturbed  until  the  disease  advances,  when  it  will  becuine  quickened,  rua- 
sing  to  its  height  quickly,  and  receding  as  rapidly,  if  fatal. 


DISEASES    AND    THEIR   TREATMENT.  177 

given  for  spasmodic  colic,  give  it  at  once  as  directed.  If 
this  is  not  available,  give  a  drench  of  the  following: 

Peppermint,  2  oz.;  sulph.  ether,  2  oz.;  laudanum,  i  oz.; 
soft  water,  i  pint. 

Be  particular  to  keep  the  composition  in  motion  while 
administering;  to  be  repeated  in  half  or  three-quarters  of 
an  hour  if  not  better.  There  is  great  danger  of  this  dis- 
ease ending  fatally  by  rupturing  of  the  diaphragm,  through 
the  great  distention  of  the  intestines,  and  contrary  to  the 
regular  rule  of  scientific  veterinary  surgeons'  practice.  To 
prevent  these  violent  falls  and  rolling  in  the  stall,  to  keep 
the  animal  on  his  feet  as  much  as  possible,  and  to  avoid  all 
irritation  or  action  of  the  bowels,  it  would  be  advised  that 
he  be  walked  as  slowly  as  possible,  led  by  the  head  to  prevent 
falling  or  rolling,  until  such  time  as  the  treatment  has  had 
the  desired  effect.* 

PLEUBISY— INFLAMMATION  OF  THE  LUNGS— 
CONGESTION  OF  THE  LUNGS. 

All  these  diseases  are  only  extremes  or  modifications  of 
one  disease.  I  will  include  their  treatment  under  one  head, 
first  describing  the  symptoms  peculiar  to  each. 

[All  diseases  of  the  chest  take  the  scientific  name  "  Pneu- 
monia" and  are  called  Pleurisy,  or  Pleuro- Pneumonia; 
Typhoid  inflammation  of  the  Lungs — Typhoid  Pneumonia  ; 
Congestion  of  the  Lungs,  or  Congestive  Pneumonia;  and 
lastly,  a  disease  known  as  Dropsy  of  the  Chest — (Hydrotho- 
rax) — which  last  is  generally  the  result  of  the  former  disease. 
H  Tien  the  word  Congestion  is  spoken  of,  it  means  in  common 
phrase,  that  one  or  the  other  (right  or  left  lobe)  of  the  lungs, 
are  so  engorged  with  blood  forced  into  them  that  they  are 
either  unable  to  receive  or  discharge  any  blood,  become  hard, 
and  almost  black  in  color.  When  in  this  stage  the  disease 
is  called  Congestion,  and  often  terminates  at  this  period  in 
death.'] 


*  NOTE.— The  ether  disturbs  the  breathing,  making  the  horse  apparently  dis- 
tressed, breathes  laboriously,  which  will  pass  off  again  in  a  fow  hours.  I  could 
give  more  of  a  variety  01'  treatment  for  this  form  of  colic,  but  all  things  consid- 
ered, I  think  this  is  the  safest  and  best,  if  not  the  most  reliable  for  use  by  those 
not  skilled  in  practice. 

It  is  well  to  bear  in  mind  also,  that  if  the  horse  is  small  and  the  case  not  severe, 
leas  is  to  be  given,  while  if  very  large  and  the  attack  severe,  even  more  may  b€ 
given. 


178  DISEASES   AND   THEIR  TREATMENT 

The  most  common  causes  of  lung  fever,  as  it  is  termed, 
are,  exposing  the  animal  while  warm  to  a  cold  wind,  or 
becoming  chilled  from  driving  fast  against  a  cold  wind, 
washing  with  cold  water  immediately  after  exercise,  changes 
irom  heat  to  cold,  or  from  cold  to  heat,  removing  from  a 
warm  to  a  cold,  or  from  a  cold  to  a  warm  stable,  or  cold 
applied  to  the  surface  of  a  heated  animal,  by  which  the 
blood  is  driven  from  the  skin  and  extremities  to  the  internal 
organs,  or  any  cause  by  which  the  circulation  is  obstructed 
and  deranged,  may  excite  any  of  these  forms  of  inflamma- 
tion and  congestion. 

When  the  pleuro — (a  watery  or  fine  membrane  covering 
the  external  surface  of  the  lungs,  and  lining  membrane  of 
the  cavity  of  the  chest) — is  inflamed,  the  disease  is  called 
pleurisy. 

When  the  inflammation  is  located  in  the  lungs,  it  is  called 
pneumonia,  or  inflammation  of  the  lungs.  When  the  ac- 
tion of  the  capillaries  is  greatly  lessened  from  their  being 
weakened,  or  the  blood  being  so  forced  through  them  that 
they  are  obstructed  and  clogged,  the  difficulty  is  called  con- 
gestion of  the  lungs. 

There  cannot  be  inflammation  of  a  part  without  there 
being  more  or  less  inflammation  of  the  other  parts  surround- 
ing, and  there  cannot  be  inflammation  without  congestion, 
as  there  is  always  more  or  less  obstruction  of  the  circulation 
where  there  is  inflammation. 

PLEURISY 

may  be  sudden  or  gradual  in  its  attack,  the  horse  showing 
indisposition  sometimes  for  days  previous.  The  horse  will 
be  dull  and  heavy  in  action  for  a  day  or  two,  unwilling  to 
lie  down,  pulse  not  much  disturbed,  or  there  is  a  chill,  or 
slavering  fit,  which  lasts  from  one  to  three  hours,  when 
fever  sets  in ;  breathing  at  flanks  a  little  accelerated,  coun- 
tenance is  anxious,  the  head  is  sometimes  turned  towards 
the  side,  does  not  lie  down.  As  the  disease  advances  the 
symptoms  become  more  marked.  The  ears  and  legs  become 
cold;  the  pulse,  from  being  a  little  accelerated,  grows 
quicker,  hard  and  full;  the  head  is  hung  forward,  stands' 
up  persistently,  breathing  hurried,  the  membrane  of  the 
nose  and  eyes  red.  Turning  the  horse  round,  or  hitting 
against  the  chest,  back  of  the  shoulder,  will  cause  a  kind 
•5?  grunt. 


DISEASES   AND    THE.R   TREATMENT. 


179 


The  Commencement  of  Inflammation  of  the  Lungs. 


CONGESTION    OF   THE   LUNGS 

is  first  noticeable  by  the  horse  having  a  severe  chill  or 
shivering  fit.     He  refuses  his  food,  hangs  his  head  between 

the  fore  legs  or  up- 
on the  manger,  will 
not  move  or  lie 
down,  breathing 
quick  and  short, 
panting  like.  The 
nostrils  are  expand- 
ed, the  head  thrown 
forward ;  the  coun- 
tenance expresses 
pain  and  great  pros- 
tration. (See  cut.) 
The  pulse  is  some- 
times full  and  quick,  but  generally  quick  and  weak,  scarcely 
perceptible;  the  membrane  of  the  nose  and  eyes  bright 
ted,  tending  to  purple;  ears  and  legs  very  cold;  with  a 
cold  clammy  sweat  at  the  extremities. 

In  this  case  the  inability  of  the  horse  to  take  air  into  the 
lungs  causes  great  and  rapid  prostration,  (and  will  often, 
from  extreme  pain,  lie  down  and  get  up,  resembling  colic, 
but  the  coldness  of  extremities,  prostration  and  condition 
of  pulse  will,  if  carefully  examined,  enable  an  understand- 
ing of  the  real  cause,) 
a  choking  noise  some- 
times coming  from  the 
throat.  In  some  cases 
a  little  blood  may  be 
thrown  from  one  or 
both  nostrils.  Extreme 
prostration  and  labo- 
rious breathing  and 
bleeding  from  the  nos- 
trils shows  severe  con- 
gestion Of  the  lungs.  Second  staee  of  Inflammation  of  the  I  unga. 

TYPHOID    PNEUMONIA. 

First  symptoms. — The  horse  is  off  his  feed,  disinclination 
iO  move,  appetite  gone,  pulse  weak  and  low — will  some- 


180 


DISEASES    AND    THEIR   TREATMENT. 


Third  stage  of  Inflammation  of  the  Lunga. 


times  eat  a  little,  will 
not  lie  down,  not 
much  cough,  rarely 
any  discoloration  of 
the  membrane  of  the 
nose  or  eyes  —  urine 
scanty  and  high  col- 
ored— faeces  hard  and 
coated.  After  two  or 
three  days  the  mem 
brane  of  the  nose  and 
eyes  a  little  discolored 
or  red,  pulse  quicker, 
65  or  70,  breathes  quicker.  About  the  fourth  or  fifth  day 
there  is  usually  a  discharge  from  the  nostrils,  of  a  blackish 
brandy  color  cerumen. 

Treatment. — Experience  proves  that  sedative  treatment 
is  the  most  effective  for  cure  of  inflammation  of  the  lungs, 
which  is  greatly  assisted  by  counter  irritation.  The  seda- 
tives proved  to  be  most  effective  and  reliable  are  aconite, 
veratrum  and  belladonna.  Veratrum  exhibits  great  power 
in  lowering  the  action  of  the  heart,  while  aconite  is  not 
only  a  powerful  sedative,  but  seems  to  act  as  a  stimulant  to 
the  capillaries,  thereby  causing  profuse  perspiration. 

There  is  so  little  judgment  or  attention  given  to  condi- 
tion in  giving  medicine  and  its  effects  upon  the  system, 
that  I  shall  be  compelled  to  limit  myself  to  the  most  effect- 
ive simple  treatment.  There  are  but  few  who  seem  to  know 
anything  about  the  pulse  ;  this  of  course  should  be  under- 
stood, directions  in  relation  to  which,  find  in  anothei 
chapter. 

Take  of  tincture  (radi)  aconite  i  oz.;  veratrum  %  oz.; 
soft  water  4  oz.  Dose  from  15  to  30  drops  on  the  tongue, 
every  thirty  or  forty  minutes,  more  or  less,  and  at  longer  or 
shorter  intervals,  according  to  the  severity  of  the  case.  In 
ordinary  cases  the  veratrum  may  be  omitted.  If  the  case  is 
found  to  be  obstinate  the  veratrum  may  be  added  or  given 
separately  in  about  the  same  proportion. 

FOR   AN   ATTACK   OF   PLEURISY. 

Blanket  w irmly,  and  put  in  a  comfortable  stall,  where 
there  will  be  pure  air,  and  give  of  the  above  fever  medicine 


DISEASES   AND   THEIR    TREATMENT.  181 

from  15  to  30  drops  every  twenty  or  thirty  minutes,  on  the 
tongue.  If  the  case  is  severe  apply  some  strong  stimulant 
to  the  legs  and  on  each  side  of  the  body  and  breast,  such 
as  mustard  made  into  a  paste  and  rubbed  in  thoroughly,  or 
a  liniment  composed  of  aqua  ammonia,  reduced  one-half 
with  water ;  or  any  strong  stimulating  liniment  should  be 
applied.  The  legs  may  also  be  rubbed  and  bandaged 
warmly  but  not  tightly,  or  some  stimulating  preparation 
may  be  used  before  bandaging.* 

INFLAMMATION   OF  THE   LUNGS   OR  CONGESTION. 

Treat  as  for  Pleurisy. — If  there  is  much  congestion,  it 
is  necessary  to  give  prompt  relief,  which  can  be  done  best 
by  taking  four  to  six  quarts  of  blood  quickly  from  the  neck 
vein,  stimulate  the  sides  and  legs,  and  give  fever  medicine 
as  for  pleurisy.  I  wish  now  to  call  your  attention  to  what 
you  must  not  do.  First,  you  must  not  give  physic  or  oil 
for  any  of  the  forms  of  inflammation  of  the  lungs.  Cathar- 
tic medicine  in  any  form  is  poisonous,  such  as  aloes,  oils,  or 
tartar  emetic.  There  is  so  much  nausea  attending  the  oper- 
ation of  these  medicines  and  debility  from  their  effect. 
There  being  also  such  powerful  sympathy  between  the  bow- 
els and  the  lungs,  that  they  hasten  the  cause  of  the 
inflammation  of  the  lungs,  often  producing  death  in  a  few 
hours  after  administering  them.  Second,  do  not  bleed  for 
pleurisy,  as  so  doing  would  cause  debility  of  the  capilla- 
ries of  the  part  that  would  induce  hydrathorax  and  death. 
In  a  severe  attack  of  congestion,  bleeding  cannot  only  be 
resorted  to  with  safety,  but  is  the  quickest  and  surest  treat- 
ment to  give  relief,  but  must  not  be  carried  too  far,  merely 
to  assist  the  lungs  to  throw  off  the  load  of  blood  forced 
upon  them,  and  to  give  the  medicine  prescribed  a  chanc 
to  operate. 

TYPHOID    PNEUMONIA TREATMENT. 

As  the  word  typhoid  means  low,  it  is  necessary  to  watch 
it  carefully  in  that  stage,  which  will  last  as  described  in  the 
symptoms,  the  first  four  or  five  days,  when  in  many 


*NOTE. — If  you  give  a,  few  doses  of  aconite  as  above  prepared,  about  the  time 
fever  sets  in,  or  before,  the  horse  will  be  relieved  next  day  A  few  swallows  of  wa- 
ter should  be  given  occasionally.  Improvement  will  be  denoted  by  the  puls* 
becoming  full  and  regular,  and  the  expression  and  actions  being  lively. 


182  DISEASES   AND   THEIR   TREATMENT. 

cases  the  pulse  may  run  down  to  thirty.  Stimulants 
should  be  used  at  this  stage,  such  as  a  little  brandy  and 
water  or  whisky  and  water.  A  gill  or  two  of  liquor  to  be 
given  as  a  drench,  or  what  is  much  better,  is,  take  carbonate 
of  ammonia,  from  one  to  two  drachms ;  powdered  ginger 
root,  one  to  two  drachms,  made  into  a  ball  with  honey  or 
molasses  and  given  twice  a  day.  It  should  be  remembered 
that  this  treatment  alone  is  intended  only  for  the  low  stage 
of  the  disease.  When  the  pulse  seems  to  rise  to  fifty  or  sixty 
about  the  fifth  or  sixth  day,  the  patient  should  then  be 
treated  as  for  pleurisy,  with  fever  medicine.  Under  the 
influence  of  the  latter  treatment,  the  pulse  will  recede  and 
resume  its  natural  number  of  beats  (forty).  In  this  form 
of  disease  it  is  extremely  prostrated  at  first,  the  whole  sys- 
tem being  inactive.  The  pulse  may  run  up  in  time  to 
seventy,  or  even  eighty.* 

The  reader  may  take  up  veterinary  works,  and  those  too 
by  good  authority,  in  which  he  is  told  to  bleed  for  pleurisy 
and  lung  fever;  bleed  until  the  pulse  falters.  I  have  only 
to  say  that  I  give  you  what  I  know  from  experience  to  be 
safe,  reliable  treatment,  and  you  are  safe  in  following  im- 
plicity  the  treatment  given.  Indeed,  for  all  ordinary  cases, 
a  few  doses  of  aconite,  to  which  may  be  added,  if  desired, 
a  little  belladonna  and  veratrum  in  the  proportion  given, 
including  same  proportion  of  belladonna  there  is  of  vera- 
trum, given  promptly,  will  in  almost  every  instance  give 
relief  quickly. 

Dr.  Somerville  of  Buffalo,  puts  up  a  preparation  for  the 
cure  of  lung  fever,  colds  and  chills,  which  is  specific.  It 
will  cure  every  case  of  chills  or  fever.  A  bottle  of  which 
should  be  kept  in  every  stable.  If  available  at  your  drug- 
gist's, get  a  bottle  by  all  means.  It  is  just  the  thing,  and 
cheap  at  any  price. 

See  also  introductory  chapter  to  treatment  of  diseases 
before  treatment  for  colic. 

*  NOTE.— In  all  cases  in  feeding  while  the  animal  is  lahoring  under  any  of  the 
forms  of  pneumonia,  the  animal  should  be  kept  moderately  warm,  have  plenty  ol 
pure  air,  cold  water  in  small  quantities,  a  hand  full  of  wet  hay,  a  carrot  or  two, 
an  apple  or  a  potato  or  more ;  anything  of  an  alterative  form.  Be  careful  not  to 
exercise  too  soon. 


DISEASES   AND   THEIR   TREATMENT. 


183 


Effect  of  a  Cold. 


CATAKKH,  OB  COLD. 

Cold   is   of  common   occurrence,  and 

may  lead  to  very  serious  consequences  if 

neglected.     If  looked  to  in  time,  with  a 

little  rest  and  nursing,  the  system  will  soon 

resume  its  normal  condition. 

The  usual  symptoms  are,  a  little  increase 

of  pulse,  a  slight  discharge  from  the  nose 

and   eyes,  the  hair    roughed,  not   much 

appetite,  and  some  cough,  which  is  some- 
times severe. 

Blanket    warmly,  give    aconite   as   for 

fever.  Nurse  by  giving  bran  mashes,  etc. 
If  the  case  is  serious  it  may  run  into  general 
inflammation  of  the  air  passages,  as  bronchitis 
or  laryngitis.  Would  aim  to  keep  up  the 
strength,  giving  fever  medicine,  alternating 
with  belladonna.  Put  on  a  bag,  made  of 
coarse,  loose  cloth,  into  which  put  some 
bran  on  which  throw  an  ounce  or  two  of 
turpentine.  Hang- the  bag  on  the  head,  same 
as  in  cut,  being  careful  not  to  have  it  so  tight 
around  the  nose  as  to  heat  or  scald  and  be 
oppressive.  A  few  repetitions  of  this  will 
cause  the  nose  to  run  freely.  Rest  and  care 
will  usually  do  the  rest. 

If  there  is  obstinate  inflammation  of  the 
throat  and  air  passages,  any  good  liniment 


**<* 


Steaming  the  Nose 
of  a  Horse  having 
Cold. 


184 


DISEASES   AND   THEIR   TREATMENT. 


may  be  applied  around  the  chest  and  throat  and  bandaged, 
as  shown  in  the  cut.  The  object  is  to  stimulate  the  surface, 
and  this  would  be  an  easy,  practical  way  of  doing  it. 


Severe  attack  of  Distemper. 


STKANGLES  OB  DISTEMPER. 

This  is  another  form  of  sore-throat,  familiar  to  every  one. 
Its  design  seems  to  be  to  throw  some  poisonous  matter  frorr 
the  system,  and  the  object  should  be  to  keep  the  strength 
of  the  animal  up  and  hasten  suppuration. 

The  horse  is  out  of  sorts;  the 
neck  becomes  sore  and  stiff;  an 
enlargement  appears  which  is  first 
hard  and  tender;  there  is  some 
discharge  from  the  nose.  The  case 
usually  grows  worse,  if  very  severe, 
often  threatening  to  cause  suffoca- 
tion; horse  unable  to  eat  or  drink 
but  little,  and  strength  is  lost 
rapidly. 

Use  freely  a  poultice  made  of  wheat  bran  and  warm 
vinegar,  changing  as  often  as  the 
poultice  becomes  dry,  using  the 
eight-tailed    bandage,  until    the 
enlargement  becomes  soft  and  can 
be   opened,  when   relief  will  be 
prompt.     Or  the  following  treat- 
ment may  be  adopted,  which  is 
similar,  and  if  tne  alteration  is 
not  good,  is    preferable:    Take 
spirits  of  turpentine,  two  parts; 
spirits    of   camphor,  one    part; 
laudanum,  one  part.     Put  this  on  the  neck  with  a  brush,  if 
convenient,  or  any  way  to  apply  it 
without  exciting  pain,  three  or  four 
times  a  day  until  soreness  is  caused. 
After  each  application  have  ready 
three   or   four  pieces   of  flannel, 

which     should     be    a    good     thick  Eight-Tailed  Bandage. 

article;    put  these  over  the  parts 

and  bind  on  with  the  eight-tailed  bandage.     When  the 

tumor  points,  open  it,  and  be  sure  that  the  matter  has  a 


Applying  an  Eight-Tailed  Bandage 
in  Distemper. 


DISEASES   AND    THEIR   TREATMENT. 


185 


thorough  outlet.  Sometimes  the  inflammation  is  so  deep  as 
to  cause  serious  soreness  and  swelling  of  the  throat.  In  this 
case  the  horse  must  be  nursed  carefully  by  feeding  with 


Opening  the  Abscess  in  Distemper. 

warm  gruel ;  the  drink  should  be  warm ;  grass  or  anything 
that  will  tempt  the  appetite  should  be  given.  Simpler 
treatment  would  be  rubbing  on  the  enlargement  an  ordinary 
fly-blister,  to  bring  the  enlargement  to  a  head.  Physic  must 
not  be  given. 

INFLAMMATION  OF   THE  BOWELS. 

This  disease  is  generally  caused  by  constipation  of  the 
bowels,  hard  driving,  over-purging  or  looseness  of  bowels, 
or  drinking  cold  water  when  warm.  Cons^pation  is,  how- 
ever, the  principal  cause  of  the  disease,  and  when  this  is 
the  case,  the  first  and  most  important  condition  of  relief  is 
to  get  an  action  of  the  bowels. 

Symptoms.  —  For  the  first 
few  hours  the  horse  is  uneasy, 
paws,  looks  around  at  the  side, 
the  pulse  is  slightly  accelerated 
and  wiry.  As  the  disease  ad- 
vances the  intermissions  be- 
tween the  attack  become  less, 
pulse  quicker,  running  fr  )m 

Symptoms  of  Intest^ai  and  Abdomi-    SCVCnt)     to    eighty    beats    il*    a 
nal  Irritation,  as  shown  in  Inflam-         •       ,  c^i-r>^  i'r»ctnn^K  ^wn 

mation  of  the  Bowels.  minute,  xXi  some  instances  even 


186 


DISEASES   AND   THEIR  TREA1MENT. 


faster;  lies  down  and  gets  up,  shows  mucr&pain,  no  swelling 
of  sides.  Now  begins  to  exhibit  fever,  bowels  constipated, 
urine  highly  colored  and  scanty. 

Remedy. — Give  a  quart  of  raw  linseed  oil. 

Note. — If  constipation  is  very  great,  add  from  four  to  six 
drops  of  croton  oil. 

If  scours  or  over-purging,  give  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  the 
tincture  of  opium  with  six  ounces  of  water.  But  in  order 
to  suppress  the  inflammation  it  is  necessary  to  bleed  imme- 
diately from  the  neck  vein  from  six  to  ten  quarts  of  blood, 
according  to  the  strength  and  size  of  the  animal.  In 
extreme  cases  bleeding  may  be  repeated  to  the  extent  of 
four  to  six  quarts  in  three  or  four  hours.  If  much  pain 
exists  in  constipation,  give  from  one  to  three  ounces 
tincture  asafcetida.  Feed  lightly  for  a  week  at  least,  giving 
gruel,  roots,  grass  and  bran  mashes,  and  keep  quiet.  No 
exercise  for  several  days  if  there  is  danger  of  a  relapse. 
This  a  dangerous  disease  and  requires  prompt  treatment. 


INFLAMMATION  OF  THE  KIDNEYS. 

Inflammation  of  the  kidneys  is  generally  caused  by  hard 
work,  by  slipping,  throwing  the  hind  parts  so  suddenly  under 
the  belly  as  to  produce  undue  tension  of  the  lumbar  verte- 
brae, or  from  sudden  colds  by  being  exposed  to  rain  and 
cold,  the  eating  of  musty  hay  or  oats,  or  unhealthy  food  of 
any  kind.  Too  powerful  or  too 
often  repeated  diuretics  produce  in- 
flammation of  the  kidneys,  or  a 
degree  of  irritation  and  weakness  of 
them  that  disposes  to  inflammation, 
from  causes  that  would  otherwise 
have  no  injurious  effect. 

Symptoms.  —  Less  or  more  fever 
of  the  system  generally,  and  unwil- 
lingness to  move,  particularly  the 
hind  legs,  dung  hard  and  coated, 
very  sensitive  to  pressure  on  the 
spine.  The  horse  looks  anxiously 

round    at    his    flanks,  Stands  with  his     Appearance  of  a  Horse  Suffer 

hind   legs  wide   apart,  straddles    as 
he  walks,  shows  pain  in  turning ;  the 


ing    from  Diseases  of   the 
Urinary  Organs. 


DISEASES   AND   THEIR   TREATMENT. 


187 


Test  for  Inflammation  of 
the  Kidneys. 


urine  is  voided  in  small  quantities,  and  is  usually  high 
colored,  sometimes  bloody ;  the  attempt  to  urinate  becomes 
more  frequent,  and  the  quantity  voided  smaller,  until  the 
animal  strains  violently,  without  being  able  to  pass  any  or 
but  very  little  urine.  The  pulse  is 
quick  and  hard,  full  in  the  early 
stage  of  the  disease,  but  rapidly  be- 
coming small,  though  not  losing  its 
character  of  hardness.  Introduce 
the  hand  into  the  rectum.  If  the 
bladder  is  found  full  and  hard  under 
the  rectum,  there  is  inflammation  of 
the  neck  of  the  bladder.  If  the 
bladder  is  empty,  yet  on  the  portion 
of  the  intestimes  immediately  over 
it  there  is  more  than  natural  heat 
and  tenderness,  there  is  inflammation 
of  the  body  of  the  bladder.  If  the 
bladder  is  empty  and  there  is  no 
increased  tenderness  and  heat,  there 
is  inflammation  of  the  kidneys. 

Treatment. — If  the  pulse  is  high,  about  sixty,  take  five  or 
six  quarts  of  blood  and  give  a  fever  ball;  to  be  repeated  in 
three  hours  if  not  better.  Fever  ball :  4  drams  Barbadoes 
aloes,  i  dram  tartar  emetic,  2  drams  ginger,  calomel  about 
the  size  of  a  bean,  molasses  sufficient  to  make  into  a  ball. 
Counter  irritation  must  next  be  excited  over  the  seat  of  the 
disease.  The  loins  should  be  fomented  with  hot  water  or 
covered  with  mustard  poultice,  or,  better,  heat  a  peck  of 
salt  in  an  oven,  place  it  in  a  bag,  and  put  it  over  the  part 
affected.  If  the  case  is  severe  and  protracted,  a  sharp  blister 
may  be  used.  No  diuretics  are  to  be  given,  as  they  would 
simply  aggravate,  and  make  the  disease  worse.  After  the 
bowels  are  open,  give  aconite,  and  treat  as  for  fever.  After 
recovery  the  horse  sbould  be  kept  very  quiet  for  a  month, 
and  if  in  season,  turned  out  to  grass.  If  in  winter,  feed 
with  light  mashy  diet;  exercise  lightly  by  leading,  if  the 
animal  be  valuable  and  it  is  desired  to  aid  recovery  b> 
extra  care. 


DISEASES   AND   THEIR  TREATMENT. 


INFLAMMATION  OF  THE  BLADDEB. 

Symptoms  almost  the  same  as  those  of  inflammation  of  the 
kidneys.     Frequent  voiding  of  urine  in  small  quantities, 
quick  pulse,  looks  frequently  at  flanks,  paws  violently,  ten- 
der when  pressed  upon  under  the  flanks. 
,    Here  the  principal  object  is  to  lower  inflammation  and 
the  muscular  contraction  of  the  neck  of  the  bladder. 
*Bleed  largely,  almost  to  fainting;  give  physic  as  for  inflam- 
(mation  of  the  kidneys,  or  a  quart  of  linseed  oil.     A  dram 
tf  powdered  opium,  made  into  a  ball,  or  given  in  drink, 
y  two  or  three  hours,  and  blister  over  the  loins.     Give 
aconite,  as  for  inflammation  of  the  kidneys.* 

INFLAMMATION  OF  THE  BRAIN,  OB  STAGGEBS, 

Is  first  noticeable  by  dullness  or  sleepiness  of  the  eyes,  an 
unwillingness  to  move,  general  heaviness  of  the  system. 
This  disease  is  frequently  called  megrims,  fits  and  mad  stag- 
gers;  but  in  part  only  one  disease,  according  to  the  extent 
of  such  disease  as  the  animal  may  be. affected  with. 

The  cause  of  staggers,  is,  an  undue  flow  of  blood  to  the 
brain,  which  rarely  or  never  occurs  in  any  animals  except 
those  in  a  plethoric  (fat)  condition. 

Some  writers  and  practitioners  assert  that  there  is  a 
disease  known  as  stomach  staggers.  I  have  never  seen  a 
case  where  it  was  necessary  to  treat  the  stomach,  but  always 
direct  attention  to  the  brain,  as  being  the  seat  of  this 
disease,  which  may  be  properly  called  head  staggers.  (In 
his  lecture  on  this  difficulty,  Dr.  Somerville  was  emphatic 
in  this  conclusion.) 

In  cases  of  megrims  or  fits  it  is  merely  a  lesser  attack,  or 
pressure  of  the  blood-vessels  on  the  brain,  and  mad  staggers 
is  a  greater  pressure  of  the  same  vessels  on  the  same  part. 
The  brain  is  divided  into  two  parts,  namely,  cerebrum  and 
cerebellum,  which  occupy  a  horny  box  in  the  head.  The 
blood-vessels  passing  over  the  brain  and  coming  in  contact 
with  the  skull,  become  distended  by  an  increased  quantity 
of  blood,  and  produce  the  feeling,  which  is  thus  exhibited. 

*  If  possible  call  a  veterinary  surgeon  who  will  introduce  a  catheter  which 
will  relieve  the  animal  immediately. 


DISEASES   AND   THEIR  TREATMENT. 

There  is  but  one  cure  for  this  disease,  and  that  is,  remove 
the  cause.  Bleed  largely  from  the  neck — ten,  twelve  or 
fourteen  quarts,  or  until  the  symptoms  of  fainting.  ^  ftei 
the  horse  is  convalescent  a  sharp  dose  of  physic  should  bv 
given  to  regulate  the  bowels.  I  would  advise  owners  of 
horses  to  dispose  of  them.  Once  taken  with  the  disease, 
they  are  subject  to  a  repetition  of  the  attack  when  the  blood- 
vessels become  filled  again. 

Note, — Small  doses  of  aconite  (of  the  quantity  for  fever) 
may  be  given  three  or  four  times  a  day  as  a  good  preventive. 
Turning  horses  to  pasture  that  may  be  liable  to  this  disease 
will  prove  both  injurious  and  dangerous. 

FOUNDEK,  (LAMINITIS.) 

There  are  two  stages  of  this  disease,  acute  and  chronic. 
The  first  produces  a  high  state  of  excitement  and  inflamma- 
tion of  the  sensible  laminae  of  the  foot.  The  second,  a 
morbid  or  insensible  feeling  of  the  parts  generally.  The 
first  is  invariably  cured  if  properly  treated.  The  second  is 
not  curable,  but  may  be  palliated  to  a  limited  extent. 
Acute  founder  is  easily  detected.  The  animal  invariably 
extends  the  fore  feet  as  far  forward  as  he  can,  and  brings 
the  hind  ones  in  the  same  position  under  him.  There  is  sb 
much  pain  in  the  fore  feet  that  he  endeavors  to  throw  his 
weight  on  the  hind  ones.  (See  cut.)  The  common  causes 
of  founder  are  exposing  the  animal  when  warm  to  sudden 
changes,  usually  produced  by  the  following  means,  namely : 
Standing  in  cold  air  when  warm,  after  being  driven, 
driving  through  a  river  while  warm,  or  giving  cold  water  to 
drink  while  warm,  washing  the  feet  when  warm  and  neg- 
lecting to  dry  them,  &c.  It  is  generally  supposed  that 
feeding  a  horse  while  warm  will  produce  founder.  This  is 
an  error,  unless  it  is  such  food  as  will  chill  the  system, 
which  may  be  done  by  giving  a  large  quantity  of  cold  wet 
mixed  feed,  whereby  the  circulation  would  be  checked,  as 
before  explained. 

Founder  is  simply  inflammation  in  the  feet,  whatever 
general  disturbance  of  the  system  is  caused  by  the  pain  and 
soreness  in  them,  and  the  correct  principle  of  cure  is  to 
lower  and  remove  this  inflammation  before  change  of  struc- 
ture or  sloughing  can  take  place. 


* 


DISEASES   AND   THEIR   TREATMENT. 

Treatment. — As  soon  as  the  disease  has  developed  itself, 
bleed  from  the  neck,  according  to  the  size  and  condition  of 
the  animal — from  six  to  twelve  quarts.  Then  give  a  sharp 
cathartic  ball  (7  drams  aloes,  4  drams  bar  soap,  i  dram  gin- 
ger). Make  into  a  ball  and  give  immediately.  After  the 


The  Horse  as  he  Appears  when  Suffering  from  Inflammation 
in  the  Feet,  or  Founder. 

fore  shoes  have  been  removed,  poultice  thoroughly  with 
bran  wet  with  cold  water.  This  poultice  may,  while  on  the 
feet,  be  kept  wet  by  dipping  the  poulticed  foot  into  a  pail 
of  cold  water,  or  pouring  some  on.  This  poulticing  should 
be  kept  up  from  four  to  five  days,  when  the  shoes  may  be 
tacked  on,  and  the  animal  exercised  a  little.  Cloths  wet 
with  cold  water  should  be  tied  around  the  coronet  and  the 
soles  stuffed  for  a  week  or  two.  The  horse  should  have 
tepid  water  to  drink  and  warm  bran  mashes  during  the 
operation  of  the  medicine.  If  the  disease  should  be  stub- 
born, which  is  rarely  the  case,  a  second  ball  may  be  given 
after  an  interval  of  five  days. 

Nothing  can  be  done  for  a  sub-acute  founder,  or  case 
badly  treated.  If  the  sole  is  broken  down  do  not  pare  the 
sole.  Fit  the  shoe  so  as  not  to  press  on  the  sole.  Stuff 
the  whole  bottom  with  oakum  and  tar,  and  apply  leather 
over.  Put  on  the  shoe  carefully.  Cure  is  impossible.  If 
warm  fomentations  are  used,  instead  of  cold,  a  relaxation 
of  the  sensible  lamina  on  the  wall  of  the  foot  is  liable  to 
take  place. 


DISEASES   AND  THEIR  TREATMENT. 

The  great  trouble  with  most  farmers  and  horsemen  is, 
they  do  not  know  either  how  to  bleed  or  give  a  ball  of 
physic  medicine. 

In  that  case  you  must  do  all  you  can  by  poulticing  the 
feet  and  the  use  of  sedatives.  Take  a  large  tub  or  part  of 
a  barrel ;  put  in  some  blue  clay,  upon  which  pour  hot  water. 
(The  mixture  should  come  half  way  to  the  knees  when  the 
horse  stands  in  it.)  See  that  it  is  not  hot  enough  to  scald. 
Stand  the  horse  in  for  several  hours,  after  which  poulticing 
as  before,  at  the  same  time  give  aconite  as  for  fever.  You 
can  also  give  a  pint  of  raw  linseed  oil.  It  would  be  also 
conducive  to  success  to  bleed  from  the  toes,  which  can  be 
easily  done  by  cutting  through  the  sole  at  the  toe. 

If,  however,  you  can  treat  as  first  advised,  your  success 
will  be  certain,  as  this  treatment  I  know  will  cure  any  case 
of  acute  founder,  or  laminitis. 

HEA.VES,  OB  BROKEN  WIND. 

Heaves  produces  increased  action  of  the  flanks.  The 
inspiration  is  natural,  but  the  expiration  requires  two  mo- 
tions to  expel  the  air.  There  is  always  a  short  cough,  or 
grunt,  and  at  the  same  time  expels  wind  while  coughing. 
Heaves  are  never  found  in  the  racing  stable,  where  horses 
are  properly  fed.  They  are  always  found  among  cart  or 
team  horses,  where  the  owners  suppose  they  must  feed  a 
large  quantity  of  coarse  food  or  hay. 

The  seat  of  the  disease  is  located  in  the  air  cells  of  the 
lungs,  causing  enlargement  and  sometimes  a  rupture  of  these 
cells.  A  result  of  bronchitis,  or  inflammation  of  the  small 
air  passages  of  the  lungs,  is  the  lodgment  of  mucous  fluid  in 
those  passages  of  the  lungs,  causing  inability  to  breathe, 
(wheeze,)  and  leads  to  this  result.  But  in  all  cases  of 
heaves  we  find  the  horse  to  be  a  greedy  eater, — stuffs  the 
stomach  with  coarse  food,  causing  the  lungs  to  be  greatly 
restricted  in  their  action,  causing  an  enlargement  of  or  rup- 
turing of  the  air  cells. 

An  important  and  necessary  auxiliary  to  the  successful 
treatment  of  heaves  is  restricting  the  quantity  of  coarse 
•food  or  hay,  and  increasing  that  of  condensed,  nourishing 
food,  thereby  giving  the  lungs  increased  room  to  act. 
Horses  fed  on  chopped  stuff,  corn  fodder,  etc.,  improve, 
and  get  worse  by  being  fed  on  coarse  food  or  hay. 


192  DISEASES   AND   THEIR  TREATMENT. 

Heaves  disappear  by  feeding  prairie  hay  or  grass,  because 
it  is  so  coarse  the  horse  cannot  gorge  the  stomach  with  it. 
Hence  there  is  improvement  by  feeding  corn  stalks  or  fod- 
der, as  they  contain  more  saccharine  matter  and  do  not 
engorge  the  stomach.  I  have  given  the  tincture  of  rosin 
weed,  which  is  claimed  to  be  the  curative  principle  of 
prairie  hay,  without  satisfactory  results,  and  can  produce 
equally  satisfactory  results  by  other  treatment  that  is  claimed 
for  that  of  feeding  prairie  hay. 

First  give  one  of  the  following  balls :  Ginger,  powdered, 
YZ  oz.;  capsicum,  ^  oz.  Form  a  ball.  This  ball  to  be 
given  three  nights  in  succession ;  then  omit  two  or  three 
nights,  and  one  or  two  balls  may  be  given  again  in  succes- 
sion. The  horse  should  have  regular  exercise,  be  watered 
often,  (small  quantities  at  a  time,)  and  have  straw  instead 
of  hay  to  eat,  (corn  fodder  would  be  much  better.)  Under 
this  treatment  heaves  will  disappear. 

FAVORITE    REMEDIES    FOR   HEAVES. 

1.  Spanish  brown,  2  oz.;  tartar  emetic,  2  oz.;  resin,  4  oz., 
ginger,  2  oz.     Mix  and  give  two  teaspoonfuls  twice  a  day 
in  the  feed. 

2.  Vegetable  tar,  in  mass,  ^  oz.;  gum  camphor,  )^  oz.; 
tartar  emetic,  i  dram.     Form  into  a  ball,  one  of  which  is 
to  be  given  once  a  day. 

3.  Take  indigo,  i  oz.;  saltpeter,  i  oz.;  rain  water,  i  gal- 
lon; mix  and  give  a  pint  twice  a  day  in  the  feed. 

I  could  include  a  great  many  pretended  "  sure  cures  "  for 
heaves.  I  have  used  in  my  practice  almost  everything  for 
this  purpose,  comprising  sulphuric  acid  and  corrosive  sub- 
limate, etc.,  as  experiments,  and  find  them  comparatively 
or  wholly  worthless.  If  the  horse  shows  heaves  after  a 
severe  cold  or  inflammation  of  the  lungs,  there  will  be 
wheezing  from  a  filling  of  the  air  passages  with  mucus. 
Hence  gentle  exercise,  stimulating  medicine  to  the  air  pas- 
sages and  lungs,  and  condensing  the  food,  will  give  relief, 
since  the  lungs  are  thereby  stimulated  and  freed  from 
mucus,  as  well  as  giving  freedom  to  act,  and  there  is,  in 
consequence,  relief. 

You  will  find  the  above  treatment  to  work  splendidly  in 
most  cases.  They  will  give  relief  in  all  cases  with  proper 
attention  to  feeding,  and  will  in  many  cases  possibly  make 
a  cure. 


DISEASES   AND   THEIR   TREATMENT. 


TO  CUBE  ROARING,  OR  WHISTLING. 

The  following  treatment  for  the  cure  of  roar  ng,  or  whistling,  as  it  i. 
termed,  has  been  used  by  Mr.  E.  D.  Conklin,  and  others,  in  Cleveland, 
Ohio,  and  they  claim  the  m;st  satisfactory  results.  Mr.  Conklin,  who  is 
a  large  owner  of  horses,  and  perfectly  reliable,  states  that  he  cured  one 
very  bad  case;  could  not  pull  a  load  two  rods  up-hill  without  blowing 
and  choking  down;  was  completely  cured  in  six  weeks.  Has  tried  it 
in  a  number  of  cases,  and  always  with  satisfactory  results.  The  treat- 
ment was  introduced  by  Mr.  Johnson,  of  Cleveland,  who  claims  he  can 
cure  any  case.  As  there  is  no  really  satisfactory  treatment  for  this  dif- 
ficulty in  regular  practice  that  I  know  of,  I  give  this  remedy  and  state 
my  authority.  It  can  be  tried  with  safety. 

Treatment. — From  10  to  20  drops  of  sponga  fosta  on  the 
tongue  in  the  morning.  At  night  the  same  proportion  of 
Fowler's  Solution  in  the  same  manner,  to  be  repeated 
alternately  for  from  four  to  six  weeks,  giving  more  or  less 
and  for  a  longer  or  shorter  time,  according  to  the  severity 
of  the  case,  until  a  cure  is  effected. 


TETANUS,  OR  LOCKED  JAW 

This  disease  is  wholly  of  a  nervous  character.  A  descrip- 
tion of  the  symptoms  is  scarcely  necessary,  but  in  the  first 
stage  there  is  a  disinclination  to  move;  then  the  tail  be- 
comes erect  and  quivers,  the  ears  set  back,  and  the 
conjunctiva  is  thrown  over  the  pupil  of  the  eye,  and  the 
head  is  elevated. 

As  the  disease  advances,  the  muscles  all  over  the  neck 
and  body  become  stiff  and  rigid,  and  the  legs  have  the  ap- 
pearance of  a  four-footed  stool.  The  animal  has  little  or 
no  power  to  move. 

For  the  first  few  days  the  teeth  remain  apart,  but  as  the 
disease  advances,  the  muscles  of  the  jaw  become  so  con- 
tracted as  to  bring  them  close  together.  Hence  the  name 
of  locked  jaw. 

The  causes  of  this  disease  are  numerous,  but  it  is  gener- 
ally produced  from  a  wounded  nerve  or  bunch  of  nerves, 
pricking  the  tail,  and  very  often  from  docking,  punctured 
wounds  in  the  feet  from  glass  or  nails,  and  sometimes  from 
severe  exposure  to  cold,  and  I  have  known  one  case  to  occur 
from  fright.  As  to  the  pulse,  it  is  almost  normal  for  the 
first  few  days.  As  the  disease  advances  the  pulse  quickens, 


194  DISEASES   AND   THEIR  TREATMENT. 

and  the  animal  is  compelled  to  stand  on  his  legs  unty 
death,  if  it  terminates  fatally.  If  favorably,  a  relaxation 
of  the  muscles  begins  from  the  fifth  to  the  seventh  day. 
This  disease  is  more  common  in  the  extreme  South  than  in 
the  North. 

Treatment. — First,  as  the  disease  is  of  a  nervous  charac- 
ter, quietness  is  of  the  greatest  importance.  The  animal 
should  be  put  into  an  isolated  place  or  box,  by  himself,  and 
the  cause  of  the  disease  found.  If  from  docking,  the  next 
joint  should  be  taken  off  the  tail.  If  from  a  wound  in  the 
foot,  the  wound  should  be  opened  up  and  made  new,  and 
an  application  of  digestive  ointment  inserted,  so  as  to  pro- 
duce a  healthy  flow  of  matter.  When  the  irritation  has 
ceased  from  the  wound,  a  pail  of  gruel  should  be  placed 
before  him,  in  which  is  mixed  half  an  ounce  of  tartar 
emetic.  This  medicine  should  be  given  daily,  and  the  spine 
rubbed  well  with  a  strong  liniment,  composed  of  one  part 
of  aqua  ammonia  and  two  parts  of  sweet  oil.  This  embro- 
cation should  be  employed  daily  until  the  back  becomes 
sore. 

Tetanus  never  arises  from  a  wound  until  about  the  period 
that  it  may  be  considered  healed.  Bleeding  about  four 
quarts  daily  for  four  or  five  days  has  cured  several  bad 
cases.  Think  if  the  bowels  can  be  regulated,  quietness  has 
more  to  do  in  producing  a  cure  than  all  other  remedies. 

POLL  EVIL  AND  FISTULA  OF  THE  WITHEKS. 

These  difficulties  are  of  the  same  character,  though  in 
different  locations,  and  the  treatment  of  one  will  be  suffi- 
cient for  both.  Poll  evil  is  sometimes  caused  by  striking 
the  poll  against  a  beam  or  floor,  being  struck  or  otherwise 
injured,  or  it  may  be  the  result  of  constitutional  predisposi- 
tion. 

When  the  inflammation  and  enlargement  are  first  discov- 
ered, you  may  be  able  to  disperse  it  by  giving  a  dose  of 
physic  and  applying  cooling  applications  to  the  part. 

If  the  inflammation  does  not  abate,  clip  the  hair  and  rub 
on  some  blistering  ointment.  When  the  swelling  enlarges, 
open  and  allow  the  pus'  to  escape ;  cut  down  to  the  bottom, 
making  a  good  large  orifice. 


DISEASES   AND   THEIR   TREATMENT.  195 

In  treating  all  ulcers,  there  is  one  point  that  must  be  kept 
in  mind,  and  that  is  to  make  an  opening  at  the  bottom  if 
you  can,  to  let  the  matter  run  out,  as  matter  always  bur- 
rows to  the  bottom.  This  should  be  done  by  running  a 
seaton  through,  bringing  it  out  a  little  lower  than  the  bot- 
tom of  the  wound,  or  what  is  termed  a  dependent  opening. 
Wash  the  sore  out  clean.  It  is  afterwards  to  be  washed 
clearly  with  any  of  the  healing  preparations  for  ulcers,  given 
in  another  page. 

If  pipes  are  formed  requiring  caustic  medicine,  you  can 
use  either  chloride  of  zinc,  corrosive  sublimate,  or  any 
strong  escorotic  to  destroy  such  growth,  after  which  treat  as 
before.  These  are  very  serious  difficulties  to  treat,  requir- 
ing proper  dressing  daily. 

Fistula  of  withers  to  be  treated  in  the  same  manner.  The 
principle  of  treating  these  difficulties  is  really  the  same  as 
that  of  any  ordinary  deep  seated  ulcer,  more  special  direc- 
tions for  the  treatment  of  which  will  be  found  under  that 
head. 

SWEENY. 

Sweeny  is  really  a  fictitious  disease,  discarded  by  all  relia- 
ble practitioners.  They  claim,  and  how  justly  I  am  not 
prepared  to  say,  sweeny  is  the  effect  of  diseases  of  the  feet, 
such  as  corns,  navicular  diseases,  ossification  of  the  lateral 
cartilage,  contraction,  etc.,  producing  atrophy  of  the  mus- 
cles of  the  shoulder,  and  their  treatment  would  be  to 
remove  the  cause,  and  the  effect  would  cease.  If  you  wish 
to  pursue  a  local  treatment  of  sweeny  or  filling  up  of  the 
shoulder,  you  can  do  it  by  the  application  of  most  any 
stimulating  treatment.  One  of  the  simplest  and  best,  which 
will  work  in  every  case,  and  which  most  horsemen  will 
regard  as  of  more  value  than  the  price  of  this  book,  is  the 
application  of  soft  soap.  Add  a  little  salt  to  soft  soap  and 
rub  on  the  part  thoroughly  four  or  five  times  in  the  course 
of  a  week.  Four  applications  will  fill  up  the  depression  of 
the  worst  case.  The  regular  treatment  would  be  seatoning 
and  blistering,  but  this  will  do  all  that  is  required  so  far  as 
local  treatment. 

In  addition,  by  all  means,  if  any  difficulty  is  discovered 
:n  the  foot,  treat  it  also,  as  explained  in  another  chapter. 


196  DISEASES   AND   THEIR  TREA1MENT. 

SPAVIN  AND  KINQBONE. 

There  are  two  kinds  of  bone  spavin,  namely  :  Jack  and 
occult,  or  consolidated  joint.  The  first  is  located  at  the 
upper  portion  of  the  metatarsal  bone  at  its  juncture  with 
the  cuboid  bones.  The  second  is  usually  located  higher  up 
and  more  on  the  inside  of  the  astragalus  bone  at  its  junc- 
tion with  the  cuboid  bones. 

Spavins  of  either  of  the  above  classes  have  the  same  ori- 
gin and  same  causes,  namely,  inflammation  of  the  cartilage 
of  the  joint  in  the  first  instance,  and  extending  to  ulcera- 
tion  of  the  bone,  consequently  bony  matter  is  thrown  out, 
uniting  more  or  less  of  the  bone  of  the  hock  and  excess  of 
matter  and  ulceration  of  the  bones  from  the  enlargent. 

The  causes  of  spavin  are  numer- 
ous, but  principally  of  one  class,  such 
as  sprains,  hard  work,  blows,  and, 
in  fact,  any  cause  exciting  inflamma- 
tion of  this  part.  But  a  common 
cause  and  a  great  fault  lies  in  the 
breeders  of  horses,  as  very  often  the 
colt  is  bred  from  spavined  sire  or 
Showing  the^anges  of  struc-  dam,  or  both,  and  the  colt  is  certain 

to  inherit  the  same  predisposition. 

The  symptoms  at  the   commencement   are  treacherous. 
Very  often  horses  are  treated  for  hip  lameness  before  any 
enlargement  makes  its  appearance.     The  horse,  at  first,  is 
very  lame  while  laboring  under  acute  inflamma- 
tion of  the  hock  joint.    He  will  not  wear  out  01 
the  lameness  as  he  does  in  the  more  advanced 
stage   of  the   disease.      The  tumor   generally 
makes   its  appearance   from   the   fifth   to   the 
eighth  week.     Sometimes,  however,  the  lame- 
ness is  very  gradual  —  scarcely  perceptible  at 
first — getting  worse  until  there  is  marked  lame- 
ness at  starting,  which  will  soon  wear  off  as  the    Bone  Spavin, 
horse  warms  up. 

The  method  of  curing  is  varied,  as  there  are  hundreds  01 
different  remedies  and  applications.  Some  men  go  so  far 
as  to  pretend  they  can  remove  spavins.  To  a  skillful  practi- 
tioner this  is  absurd.  It  will  be  seen  that  if  such  quacks  can 
remove  the  external  tumor,  they  cannot  separate  the  bones 


DISEASES   AND    THEIR   TREATMENT. 


197 


Natural  Action. 


Effect  of  bad  Spavin 
—Leg  not  brought 
Forward. 


which  are  united,  and 
horses  may  be  spavined 
without  any  visible  en- 
largement. 

I  can  simplify  all  this 
to  gentlemen  interes- 
ted, by  illustrating  with 
my  specimens,  the  lo- 
cation, nature,  changes 
of  structure,  &c.,  in 
spavin,  a  large  collec- 
tion of  which  I  carry 
for  the  purpose.  Sub- 
limates, muriatic,  sul- 
phuric, and  nitric  acids  form  the  basis  of  the  different  oint- 
ments that  are  applied  to  remove  this  formidable  disease. 
They  always  make  a  bad  sore,  and  blemish  the  animal  for 
life. 

The  only  reasonable  treatment  for  bone  spavin  is  counter 
irritation  and  rest.  If  there  is  heat  during  the  first  few 
days,  apply  cooling  applications,  such  as  an  ounce  of  sugar 
of  lead  to  half  a  pail  of  ice  water.  Keep  the  leg  wet  for 
about  two  weeks,  when  it  may  pass  off.  A  dose  of  physic 
should  be  given.  If  this  stage  has  passed,  repeated  blister- 
ing with  a  preparation  of  iodine  or  cantharides  will  be 
necessary ;  but  much  better  would  be  the  actual  cautery  in 
an  operator's  hands.  Clip  the  hair  closely  over  a  large 
surface  four  or  five  inches  above  and  below  the  enlarge- 
ment, and  then  out  to  the  middle  of  the  back  and  fore- 
parts of  the  leg.  Any  of  the  strong  blisters  recommended 
for  spavins,  for  which  formulas  are  given  below,  are  to  be 
used.  If  a  blister,  rub  it  in  well  with  the  hand  for  ten 
minutes  or  more.  In  two  days  put  on  some  grease.  When 
the  inflammation  goes  down,  wash  with  warm  water  and 
castile  soap,  and  when  dry  put  on  more  blister,  and  so  re- 
peat, keeping  up  just  as  much  irritation  as  you  can  without 
destroying  the  hair.  In  the  meantime,  the  horse  must  be 
kept  in  a  comfortable  stall,  for  one  of  the  conditions  ol  cure 
is  rest.  Keep  up  the  inflammation  in  this  way  for  four  or 
five  weeks,  after  which  give  a  run  to  grass.  It  is  sometimes 
necessary  to  blister  lightly,  if  the  lameness  does  not  disap- 
pear, in  six  or  eigl  t  weeks,  which  may  be  repeated  a  few 


198  DISEASES   AND   THEIR   TREATMENT. 

times,  with  iodine  ointment  in  the  proportion  of  cne  part 
of  iodine  to  four  of  lard. 

Work  should  be  light,  if  any,  within 
three  months.  This  treatment  will  usually 
cure  without  leaving  a  blemish. 

Treat  ringbones  on  the  same  principle. 
Trim  off  the  hair  and  blister  in  the  same 
manner,  observing  the  same  condition  of 
rest.  As  regards  taking  off  the  enlarge- 
ment, this  treatment  is  as  effectual  towards 
that  end  as  can  be  used. 

Several  of  the  very  best  recipes  for  the 
cure  of  spavins  and  ringbones  will  be 

Ringbone.  found   below. 

Bear  in  mind,  you  must  always  clip  the 
hair  off  of  the  part  to  be  blistered,  and  that  the  medicine 
must  be  rubbed  in  well  with  the  hand  for  ten  minutes. 

VERY  STRONG  BLISTER  FOR  SPAVINS,  RINGBONES,  CURBS,  ETC. 

Finely  powdered  cantharides,  i  oz.;  powdered  euphor- 
bium,  2  drams;  lard  i  oz.;  tar,  2  oz. 

A  VERY  ACTIVE  BLISTER  FOR  SPAVIN,  RINGBONE,  ETC. 

Two  drams  corrosive  sublimate,  i  oz.  lard,  ^  oz.  tar,  a 
drams  cantharides.  Rub  and  mix  well  together. 

A  GOOD  BLISTER  FOR  SPAVIN,  RINGBONE,  ETC. 

Biniodide  of  mercury,  ^  dram;  cantharides,  i  dram; 
lard,  i  oz. 

A  fine  blister  for  any  purpose  requiring  counter  irritation 
and  absorption,  will  take  off  curbs,  splints,  &c. 

POWERFUL  ABSORBING  BLISTER  FOR  SPAVIN  AND  RINGBONE. 

Equal  parts  of  beniodide  of  mercury  and  cantharides, 
three  parts  of  tar  and  lard  each.  Rub  in  well  with  the 
hand  for  three  mornings,  and  use  lard  after  to  soften  and 
take  off  the  scab,  when  it  may  be  repeated  if  necessary. 

SWEATING  LINIMENT  FOR  WINDGALLS,  ETC. 

Strong  mercurial  ointment,  2  oz.;  camphor,  ^  oz.;  oil 
of  rosemary,  2  drams;  oil  of  turpentine,  i  oz.  Mix. 


DISEASES   AND   THEIR   TREATMENT.  199 

VERY  STRONG  SWEATING  BLISTER,  FOR  WINDGALLS,  CURBS, 
SPLINTS,  ETC. 

Biniodide  of  mercury,  ^  to  i  dram;  powdered  arnica 
leaves,  i  dram;  soap  liniment,  2  oz.  Mix. 

A  FINE  ABSORBENT  FOR  TAKING  DOWN  ENLARGEMENTS 
OF  ANY  KIND. 

One  ounce  beniodide  of  mercury ;  from  i  to  3  ounces  of 
lard,  according  to  the  strength  desired. 

The  following  remedy  for  the  cure  of  spavin  and  ring- 
bone is  regarded  as  one  of  the  best  used.  It  is  sold  in  the 
Mohawk  Valley,  (where  I  obtained  the  prescription,)  for 
$5.00  a  box,  and  FIFTY  DOLLARS  has  been  paid  for  this  re- 
ceipt. It  is,  I  think,  the  best  of  this  class  of  prescriptions 
published. 

FOR  SPAVIN  AND  RINGBONE. 

Five  ounce  euphorbium,  2  oz.  Spanish  flies  (fine),  i  oz. 
iodine,  dissolved  with  alcohol,  ^  oz.  red  precipitate,  i  oz. 
corrosive  sublimate,  ^  oz.  quicksilver,  6  oz.  hog's  lard, 
6  oz.  white  turpentine,  ^  Ib.  verdigris.  Melt  the  lard  and 
turpentine  together,  then  while  hot  add  all  together.  Mix 
well;  when  cold  it  is  fit  for  use.  Rub  it  in  thoroughly  on 
the  spavin  every  day  for  three  days ;  then  wash  clean  with 
soap  suds ;  omit  for  three  days  and  then  repeat  for  three 
days  again,  and  so  on  until  a  perfect  cure  is  produced. 
Should  it  blister,  use  it  more  cautiously. 

This  medicine  will  get  up  as  much  inflammation  as  you 
desire,  and  must  be  applied  cautiously  or  it  will  blemish. 

The  following  remedy  for  the  cure  of  ringbone  and 
spavin,  and  taking  off  enlargements,  has  been  peddled 
through  the  country  as  a  remedy  of  the  greatest  value.  As 
high  as  one  hundred  dollars  has  been  paid  for  this  receipt. 
I  give  it  as  given  me. 

Take  alcohol,  14  oz.;  iodine,  304  grains;  bichloride  of 
mercury,  150  grains.  Let  stand  in  a  sand  bath  twenty-twG 
hours,  then  add  230  drops  croton  oil;  let  it  stand  in  sand 
bath  twenty-two  hours  longer,  then  bottle  for  use. 

Next  take  quicksilver,  14  oz.;  nitric  acid,  7  oz.;  stir  one 
minute;  cantharides,  7  drams;  stir  five  minutes;  sulphuric 


200  DISEASES   AND   THEIR   TREATMENT. 

acid,  7  oz.;  stir  three  minutes;  50  drops  of  the  above  lini- 
ment. Let  stand  five  hours,  stir  every  half  hour,  then  add 
7  oz.  prepared  chalk. 

First  shave  the  hair  off  the  "bunch,"  then  apply  the 
liniment  with  a  lather  brush.  Sprinkle  a  little  of  the  pow- 
der on  paper,  and  rub  on,  after  washing  with  the  liniment. 
When  the  bunch  is  reduced  two-thirds,  wash  with  warm 
water  and  castile  soap.  In  twenty-four  hours  grease. 

This  is  one  of  the  very  strongest  remedies  used  for  spavir 
and  ringbone,  and  if  not  used  with  great  care  is  pretty  sure 
to  blemish.  I  will  here  state  that  educated  practitioners 
use  the  milder  treatment,  immediately  following  the  des- 
cription of  spavin.  Properly  done,  the  actual  cautery  or 
firing  is  undoubtedly  the  best  and  most  reliable  treatment. 
This  is  the  treatment  I  use  for  these  difficulties.  Dr.  Wm. 
Somerville  frequently  charges  $100  for  curing  spavins,  &c., 
on  valuable  horses  by  firing,  guaranteeing  not  to  blemish. 
While  the  operation  of  itself  is  simple,  it  is  one  that  requires 
rare  practical  skill,  and  is  done  successfully  only  by  a  few 
of  the  best  practitioners. 

Youatt,  one  of  the  best  of  the  old  English  authors,  says 
in  regard  to 

FIBINQ  FOB  SPAVIN. 

Whatever  seeming  cruelty  may  attend  this  operation,  it  is,  in  many 
cases,  indispensable.  The  principle  on  which  we  have  reco'urse  to  it 
is  similar  to  that  which  justifies  the  use  of  a  blister;  by  producing 
superficial  inflammation  we  may  be  enabled  to  remove  a  deeper-seated 
one,  or  we  may  excite  the  absorbents  to  take  away  any  unnatural  bony 
or  other  tumor:  it  has  also  this  additional  advantage,  that,  while  it 
raises  intenser  external  inflammation  than  we  can  produce  by  other 
means,  it  is  the  most  powerful  agent  that  we  have  at  our  disposal. 
Humanity,  however,  will  dictate,  that  on  account  of  inflammation  whi^h 
it  excites,  and  the  pain  which  it  inflicts,  it  should  only  be  had  recourse 
to  when  milder  means  have  failed,  except  in  those  cases  in  which  ex- 
perience has  taught  us  that  milder  means  rarely  prove  successful. 

The  part  which  is  to  be  submitted  to  the  operation  is  shaved,  or  the 
hair  is  cut  from  it  as  closely  as  possible  with  the  trimming  scissors. 
This  is  necessary  to  bring  the  iron  into  immediate  contact  with  the 
skin,  and  likewise  to  prevent  the  smoke  that  will  arise  from  the  burned 
hair  from  obscuring  the  view  of  the  operator. 

The  details  of  the  operation  belong  to  the  veterinary  surgeon.  The 
grand  points  to  be  attended  to  are  to  have  the  edge  of  the  iron  round 
and  smooth;  the  iron  itself  at,  or  rather  below  red  head;  to  pass  it 
more  or  less  rapidly  over  the  skin,  and  with  slighter  or  greater  pressure 


DISEASES   AND    THEIR   TREATMENT.  201 

according  to  the  degree  of  heat ;  to  burn  into  the  skin  until  the  line 
produced  by  the  iron  is  of  a  brown  colour,  rather  light  than  dark,  and 
by  all  means  avoid  penetrating  the  skin.  Leaving  the  additional 
cruelty  of  deep  firing  out  of  the  question,  we  may  depend  on  it  that,  if 
the  skin  is  burned  through,  inflammation,  and  ulceration,  and  sloughing 
will  ensue,  which  will  be  with  much  difficulty  combated;  which  will 
unavoidably  leave  unnecessary  blemish,  and  which  have  destroyed 
many  valuable  horses.  It  may  happen,  nevertheless,  that  by  a  sudden 
plunge  of  the  animal,  the  skin  will  be  unavoidably  cut  through.  Tht 
act  of  firing  requires  much  skill  and  tact,  and  the  practitioner  cannot  be 
always  on  his  guard  against  the  struggles  of  the  tortured  beast.  It  will 
also,  and  not  unfrequently  occur,  that  the  skin,  partially  divided,  will 
separate  in  two  or  three  days  after  the  operation.  This  must  not  be 
attributed  to  any  neglect  or  unskillfulness  of  the  surgeon,  and  the  ulce- 
ration thus  produced  will  be  slight,  and  easily  treated,  compared  with 
that  caused  by  the  actual  burning  through  of  the  skin. 

Some  practitioners  blister  immediately  after  firing.  As  a  general 
usage,  it  is  highly  to  be  reprobated.  It  is  wanton  and  useless  cruelty; 
but  it  may  be  required  in  bony  tumors  of  considerable  extent,  and 
long  standing,  and  interfering  materially  with  the  action  of  the  neigh- 
boring joint.  Spavin,  accompanied  by  much  lameness,  and  ring-bone 
spreading  round  the  coronet,  and  involving  the  side  cartilages,  or  the 
pastern-joint,  may  justify  it.  The  inflammation  is  rendered  more  in- 
tense, and  of  considerably  longer  duration.  In  old  affections  of  the 
round  bone  it  may  be  admitted,  but  no  excuse  can  be  made  for  it  in 
slighter  cases  of  sprain,  or  weakness,  or  staleness. 
The  point  in  firing  for  a  spavin  is  first  to  fire  over  a  large  surface. 
The  perpendicular  lines  should  run  about  two  inch- 
es apart,  and  the  oblique  ones  about 
a  scant  half  inch  apart.  The  iron 
should  have  an  edge  of  about  a  thir- 
tieth of  an  inch  across  the  edge,  but 
smooth  and  rounding,  not  sharp  or 
too  prominently  dull ;  something  like 
the  back  of  a  wood-saw,  but  slanting 
back  thick  immediately  from  the 
edge,  and  should  be  of  steel.  Two 
irons  are  necessary.  The  end,  or 
firing  part,  shown,  is  just  half  size. 
The  handle  part  should  extend  back 
twenty  one  or  two  inches,  of  simple 
half -inch  round  iron. 

First  clip  the  hair  off  the  leg  to  be 
fired  for  spavin  quite  close,  and  over 
about  the  proportion  of  surface 
shown,  clear  around  to  the  middle  of 
the  leg,  behind  and  before.  Now  put 
your  irons  in  the  fire,  and  make  ready.  Aq"fai^efe"yg  ^ej 
Back  view  of  a  leg  There  is  a  great  difference  in  horses  ghoSkufe  Urea 
fired  for  spaviii.  about  standing  while  firing ;  some  for  spavin. 


202 


FIRING    FOR   SPAVIN. 


as    it  should 
fired  for  spavin. 


will  stand  quite  well  with  an  ordinary  twist  on  and  the  opposite  hind 
leg  tied  forward  with  a  rope  or  strap  around  the  neck.     The  best  is 
putting  in  a  frame,  with  the 
irons     a     dull-red      heat. 
Catch  a  firm  hold  about  ten 
or  twelve  inches  back,  and 
draw   the   edge    backward 
and  forward  rapidly  on  the 
floor,  rolling  the  edge  a  lit- 
tle, right  and  left,  so  that  the 
whole  surface  will  be  pol- 
ished smooth.     Now  draw 
the    edge    down,    forming 
the  main  outline   creases  : 
of  course  they  come  nearer 
together  at  the  bottom  than 

at  top.      And  now  for  an  A  view  of  the  leg  when 
important  point  You  must       drawn  forward   after 
not  burn  through  the  skin,       firing. 
yet  as  near  it  as  you  safely  can.     Your  hand  must 
new  of  a  leg    be  perfectly  steady,  and,  the  instant  you  rest  the 
edge  on  the  skin,  draw  it  steadily  but  carefully,  at 
one  stroke,   to  the  end  of  the  line.     There  should 
be  a  dull  white  line,  of  a  uniform  size  and  color.     Your  eye  should 
be  on  the  iron,  and  the  effect  it  is  producing.     If  the  iron  is  very  hot, 
it  acts  too   quick,  and  may  burn  through  if  you  are  not  very  careful, 
which  is  what  you  must  avoid  if  you  would  avoid 
blemishing;    for,   wherever    the    skin    is  broken 
through,  sloughing  will  follow,  unless  you  arrest  it 
by  using  an  astringent,  and  then  you  cannot  always 
prevent  such  a  result.     If  the  iron  is  at  just  the 
point  of  heat  so  that  it  will  burn,  but  not  too  rap- 
idly, you  are  able  to  repeat  the  stroke  two  or  three 
times  to  get  it  just  what  you  desire. 

Without  the  perpendicular  lines  made 
now,  you  should  commence  at  the  bot- 
________     torn,  and  draw  obliquely  from  one  line  to 

Firing  for  ringbone.  the.  ot\er»  slowly  but  steadily,  like  an 
Lines  perpemlicu-  artist  who  draws  a  fine  brush  to  make  a 
lar  (no  cross-lines)  stripe.  The  heavier  you  draw  the  iron, 

SSap^as'for  and  hotter  k  is'  the  deeper  it  will  cut; 

spavin.  so  that  the  colder  the  iron  becomes,  the 

slower  and  heavier  you  must  draw  it,  and 
the  hotter  the  quicker  and  lighter.     Do  not  make  the  dis- 
tance between  these  lines  less  than  seven-sixteenths 
of  an  inch  apart,  and  not  much,  if  any,  over  a  half  inch. 

If  you  run  them  much  nearer  together,  and  at  all 
heavy,  the  whole  skin  would  possibly  slough  ;  while, 
if  you  make  the  lines  much  farther  apart,  you  will  not  A  side  view  of  a  leg 
get  the  amount  of  inflammation  you  desire.  As  one 
iron  gets  cold,  put  it  in  the  fire,  and  take  out  the 
other.  If  too  hot,  plunge  it  into  water  until  just 


fired  for  i"nan>- 


FIRING   FOR   SPAVIN. 


203 


right ;  when,  as  before,  rake  the  edge  back  and  forth  on  the  plank 
or  floor :  and  go  on  until  you  get  the  surface  to  be  fired  done.  The 
deeper  you  fire,  the  more  extensive  the  inflammation  ; 
the  lighter,  the  less.  Usually,  all  the  in- 
flammation that  can  be  obtained  is  desira- 
ble ;  but,  on  the  other  hand,  it  is  impor- 
tant not  to  leave  a  blemish,  and  this  is  sure 
to  follow  if  the  skin  is  cut  or  burned 
through. 

Put  the  horse  now  in  his  stall,  and  next 
day,  if  the  firing  is  deep  and  looks  very  dry, 
rub  on  a  little  lard.  This  will  soften 
the  skin,  and  render  it  less  likely  to 
ulcerate.  In  a  day  or  two,  if  you  see  any 
part  disposed  to  slough,  take  a  little  of  the 
Magic  Healing  Powder,  — given  in  anoth- 
er page,  —  and  dust  it  on.  This  is  one 
of  the  nicest  healing  preparations  I  ever 
saw,  and  works  finely  here.  When  the 
leg  looks  dry,  put  on  a  little  more  grease  ; 
but  be  careful  about  putting  much,  or  too 
often,  as  it  lessens  the  action  of  the  fir- 
ing quite  rapidly,  which  is  what  you  do 

A  front  view  of  not  want'  NothinS  more  is  necessary  to 
a  le»  fired  be  done.  Let  the  leg  alone,  being  careful  A  back  view  of 
for  strain  of  to  keep  the  horse  tied  a  little  short,  for  he  the  lines  for 
the  back  ten-  may  try  to  bite  the  part,  and  cause  a  severe  &&&. 

blemish. 

A  good  action  of  firing  will,  run  some  two  weeks  or  more.  The 
inflammation  will  gradually  go  down,  until  the  lines  heal  and  draw  up 
together,  forming  a 
bit  of  a  seam.  In 
about  three  weeks 
the  inflammation 
will  be  about  all 
out.  The  lameness 
will  usually  disap- 
pear as  the  inflam- 
mation now  sub- 
sides. If  there  is 
much  enlargement 
and  much  soreness,  A  gide  view  of  ^el)est  forra  of  firing.ir0n  one-half  size, 
you  may  now  apply 

a  little  of  the  biniodide  of  mercury  ointment,  mentioned  on  page  198, 

about  one  part  of 
biniodide  of  mer- 
cury to  two  or 
three  parts  of  lard, 
more  or  less,  ac- 
cording to  the  strength  desired,  and  rub  on  with  the  hand  several 
minutes.  Do  not  attempt  to  drive  or  use  the  horse  for  five  or  six 
weeks,  or  more,  if  you  can  avoid  doing  so. 


A  view  of  the  edge  of  the  firing-iron,  one-half  size. 


204 


FIRING   FOR   SPAVIN. 


This  is  really  all  there  is  of  this  matter  of  firing.  It  does  not  mat- 
ter, so  far  as  it  effects  the  cure,  about  the  form  of  the  lines  ;  but  the 
point  is,  the  less  the  lines  cross,  or  are  broken,  the  less  danger  of 
sloughing;  and  made  as  directed,  obliquely,  they  draw  the  skin 
shorter,  and  are  thus  a  sort  of  a  bandage  upon  the  part,  which  of  it- 
self aids  absorption.  The  principle  of  firirTg  is  the  same  for  firing  the 
fore-legs,  the  form  of  the  lines  simply  being  different.  For  ringbone, 
simply  drawing  the  lines  straight  down,  the  same  as  the  cut  shows. 

It  does  but  little  or  no  good  to  fire  over  the  enlargement  only  ;  be- 
cause not  getting  action  enough,  unless  the  surface  is  burned  very 
deep,  which  would  leave  a  bad  blemish. 

So  far  as  medicine  will  cure,  any  of  the  spavin  prescriptions  under 
that  head  in  this  chapter  are  among  the  very  best.  Some  of  them 
are  very  active,  and  splendid  in  their  action.  The  whole  theory  is  to 
produce  a  strong  local  inflammation,  which  must  be  kept  up,  or  re- 
newed often  enough  to  cause  a  union  in  the  bones  involved ;  we  sim- 
ply produce  this  necessary  condition  to  help  nature  make  a  cure.  It 
is  easy  enough  to  compound  medicine  that  will  make  the  leg  sore  ; 
but  here,  as  in  firing,  dissolving  the  skin  will  leave  a  bad  blemish, 
and  medicine  should  be  used,  that,  while  making  a  strong  irritation, 
will  not  destroy  the  skin. 

BLOOD   SPAVIN,  THOROUGH   PIN, 

Soft  enlargements  upon  the  hock.  If  not  of  long  standing, 
the  following  will  be  found  very 
effective,  though  simple :  Rub 
on  soft  soap,  to  which  has  been 
added  a  little  salt,  at  night,  and 
wash  off  in  the  morning.  Two 
or  three  applications  will  cure, 
if  recently  caused.  If  of  long 
duration,  blister  two  or  three 
times,  as  for  bone  spavin. 

Thorough  Pin. 


SPLINTS. 

This  is  an  enlargement  between 
the  cannon  and  splint  bones,  show- 
ing itself  on  the  inside  of  the  fore 
leg.  The  same  treatment  as  for 
spavin. 


Changes  that  may 
be  Produced. 


Splint 


DISEASES   AND   THEIR   TREATMENT.  205 

CURB, 


Clean  Hock. 


Curb. 


Curb. 


This  is  an  enlargement  of  the  integument,  and  in  some 
cases  of  bony  deposit,  usually  caused  by  a  strain.  It  is 
situated  on  the  back  part  of  the  hock,  just  below  the  cap. 
Blister  with  remedy  for  spavin. 

SPRAIN   OF  THE   BACK  SINEWS. 

The  animal  becomes  suddenly  lame,  and  by  use  grows 
worse.  Pass  the  ringers  down 
on  'each  of  the  tendons  back 
of  the  knee.  A  little  enlarge- 
ment, if  there,  with  considera- 
ble inflammation,  will  be  dis- 
covered. Use  cooling  astringent 
liniment  until  the  acute  stage 
passes  off.  If  not  better  then, 
blister,  observing  to  give  the 
animal  rest.  Firing  is  the  most 

reliable  treatment.  Enlargement  «u»edby  Sprain  of  fh. 


COFFIN  JOINT   LAMENESS 

Is  often  mistaken  by  those  who  are  not  capable  of  locat'  .-tt 
the  diseases  of  horses'  feet  to  be  lameness  of  the  shoulder, 
from  the  fact  that  generally  after  the  shoe  is  removed,  and 
no  external  injury  is  discovered  in  the  foot,  some  distant 
part  is  selected  as  the  location  of  the  disease.  T  <avicular 
disease  is  dangerous  and  treacherous  in  its  pr^ress  an^ 
development.  It  is  commonly  caused  by  viole  A  sprains  .of 
the  navicular  joint,  although  sometimes,  and  in  fact,  very 
often,  may  be  induced  by  a  contusion  of  .he  frog;  and 


206  DISEASES   AND   THEIR  TREATMENT. 

again,  there  is  a  disposition  to  have  this  disease  from  heredi- 
tary causes. 

The  coffin  joint  is  composed  of  three  bones  :   the  os 
pedis,  the  navicular  and  small  pastern  bones.     The  navicu- 
lar  bones  answer  the  purpose  of  a  sup- 
port in  allowing  great  elasticity  of  mo- 
tion.    The  flexor  tendon   inserts  itself 
into  the  os  pedis,  and  passes  immediate- 
ly over  the  navicular  bone,  so  that  at 
each  step  the  navicular  bone  is  thrown 
upon  one  part  of  the  os  pedis  and  small 
pastern  at  the  same  time.     It  will  be 
seen  that  in  all  cases  of  lameness  of  this 
joint,  as  well  as  in  any  other  joint  lame- 
ness, that  the  cartilage  of  the  bones  is 
inflamed,  and  as  the  disease  progresses 
Section  of  the  Parts  En-  ulceration  takes  place,  and  consequently 
Biff  of  \°hlhFo?tman°d  ancnolosis-    Jt  is  almost  striving  against 
the°  Fetlock  and  'pas-  hope  to  be  able  to  explain  to  the  gener- 
al reader  the  symptoms  to  enable  ability 
«0s  suffraginis.  6  Os  to  locate  the  disease  with  any  degree  of 
c  Os  pedis.  d'  certainty.     Corns  or  bruises  of  the  sole, 
contraction,  or  almost  any  cause  exciting 


tendons,  g  inferior  sesa-  inflammation  in  the  foot,  may  cause  simi- 

moideal     ligament.      h    ,       ,  , 

Cleft  of  frog,  i  side  of  lar  lameness,  and  to  an  ordinary  observer 


.  there   cannot    be    that    fine    judgment 

stance.  necessary  to  trace   from   certain   pecu- 

liarities the  location  of  the  trouble. 

Horses  having  navicular  disease  invariably  travel  more  on 
the  toe  than  on  the  heel,  consequently  the  shoe  is  always 
worn  more  at  the  toe  than  at  the  heel.  The  hoof  rarely  or 
never  is  malformed,  but  the  disease  commonly  occurs  in 
healthy  looking  feet,  contraction  of  one  or  both  heels,  which 
will  in  many  cases  interfere  with  the  outer  cartilage  of  the 
joint.  In  the  cases  of  long  standing  the  frog  appears  to 
recede,  and  does  not  have  a  natural  appearance.  If  the 
horse  is  taken  suddenly  lame,  sometimes  scarcely  putting 
the  foot  down,  and  only  presses  upon  the  toe,  feel  of  the 
foot  carefully.  If  there  is  heat  around  the  top  of  the  hoof 
and  tenderness  —  even  a  little  at  the  heel  —  there  is  probably 
strain  of  the  coffin  joint.  In  incipent  cases  (first  stages) 
there  is  fever  and  tenderness  to  motion  of  the  joint,  which 


DISEASES   AND   THEIR   TREATMENT.  207 

is  noticeable  by  catching  the  foot  in  one  hand,  the  ankle  in 
the  other,  and  twisting  a  little.  The  animal  will  show  pain 
and  resist. 

As  to  treatment,  in  the  first  stage,  the  shoe  should  be  re- 
moved, and  have  the  toe  of  the  shoe  hammered  down. 
The  heels  should  be  raised,  and  applied  again  so  as  to 
remove  all  pressure  from  the  frog,. and  a  cloth  or  rug  satur- 
ated with  cold  water  applied  to  the  coronet.  The  bottom 
of  the  foot  should  be  stuffed  with  oil  meal  or  some  adhesive 
substance.  If  this  is  done  for  a  few  days,  with  rest,  the 
first  attack  will  generally  pass  off. 

In  the  more  advanced  stage  of  this  di  ease  it  will  require 
thorough  treatment.  The  shoe  should  be  formed  and  ap- 
plied as  before,  and  a  severe  blistering  applied  to  the 
coronet,  which  should  be  continued  for  from  one  to  three 
weeks,  with  rest.  At  a  still  more  advanced  stage  the  frog 
seaton  may  be  used,  but  this  must  be  done  by  an  ex- 
perienced practitioner. 

In  all  cases  of  this  disease  the  animal  will  require  con- 
sideiable  rest. 

I  would  here  remark  that  in  an  advanced  stage  of  the 
disease  the  horse  is  a  little  lame,  sometimes  worse,  at  others 
better;  rough  road  and  down  hill  worse;  is  no  worse  to  be 
at  work ;  usually  no  apparant  change  in  the  hoof;  will  go 
better  when  the  heels  are  raised  by  using  high-heeled  shoes; 
worse  by  bringing  heels  to  the  ground. 

LAMENESS. 

In  treating  lameness  successfully,  it  is  necessary  to  be 
able  to  understand  the  peculiarities  of  joint  from  muscular 
lameness, — in  fact,  of  the  action  and  movement  incidental 
to  each. 

The  horse  is,  for  example,  lame  in  the  fore  foot,  and  with- 
out knowing  just  what  the  trouble  is,  something  must  be 
done,  and  the  shoulder  is  furiously  attacked,  being  blistered, 
seatoned  or  subjected  to  some  needless  form  of  cruelty 
which  can  have  no  effect  whatever  on  the  injured  part. 

In  the  first  place,  if  the  shoulder  is  strained  or  injured, 
the  horse  cannot  raise  or  put  the  foot  forward  naturally. 
He  will  drag  it  like,  giving  it  a  sort  of  swinging  motion, 
and  does  not  bring  it  very  far  forward.  On  the  other  hand: 


£08  DISEASES   AND   THEIR  TREATMENT. 

if  the  injury  is  in  the  foot,  the  foot  is  raised  up  and  put 
forward  easily  and  naturally,  but  is  put  down  tenderly. 

Again,  a  case  of  muscular .  lameness,  such  as  shoulder 
lameness,  straining  of  the  back  sinews,  (suspensatory  liga- 
ments,) the  lameness  will  get  worse  by  use.  That  of  the 
foot,  such  as  corns,  coffin  joint  lameness,  pricking  with  a 
nail,  etc.,  remain  about  the  same;  besides,  if  there  is  much 
soreness  in  the  foot,  from  contraction,  corns,  pricking, 
strain  of  the  coffin  joint,  the  foot  will  be  put  forward  or 
rested  upon  the  toe.  This  will  always  be  the  case  if  there 
is  much  soreness  of  the  heels,  as  resting  upon  the  toe  re- 
lieves the  pressure  and  pain.  Hence  it  is  a  marked 
symptom  of  coffin  joint  injury,  of  corns  and  thickening  of 
the  lateral  cartilages. 

Again,  if  there  is  much  inflammation,  increased  heat  can 
be  felt  in  the  foot. 

FIRST,    SHOULDER  LAMENESS. 

Symptoms.— The.  animal  drags  the  leg,  with  the  toe  on 
ground,  and  cannot  raise  the  foot. 

Treatment. — Local  bleeding  from  the  plate  vein  on  the 
inside  of  the  leg  is  very  effectual,  with  a  purging  ball.  Fo- 
menting the  shoulder  with  hot  water  will  be  found  useful. 
If,  in  a  few  days,  fomentations  do  not  succeed,  and  the  case 
seems  obstinate,  rub  on  thoroughly  soft  soap  and  salt,  which 
will  be  found  a  fine  stimulant,  and  is  easily  obtained.  If 
any  eruption  should  arise  from  the  application  of  this  dress- 
ing, apply  a  little  sweet  oil  or  lard,  which  will  remove  the 
scab  in  a  few  days. 

PRICKING. 

If  the  horse  becomes  lame  after  being  shod,  examine  the 
foot  carefully.  If  pricked  by  driving  any  of  the  nails  too 
near  the  quick,  there  will  be  heat  and  tenderness  in  the 
hoof  easily  discovered.  Tap  the  nails  around  carefully; 
when  the  part  injured  is  struck  there  will  be  prompt  resist- 
ance shown.  Have  the  shoe  taken  off,  and  cut  down  to 
where  the  nail  strikes  the  quick,  enough  to  make  room  for 
any  matter  that  may  have  formed  to  escape ;  then  poultice 
with  flax  seed  meal  until  the  inflammation  is  reduced,  when 
a  little  tar,  resin,  or  tallow,  or  something  of  this  kind, 


DISEASES   AND   THEIR   TREATMENT.  209 

should  be  put  on,  and  the  opening  filled  up  with  a  little  tow 
to  prevent  gravel  or  dirt  from  getting  in,  and  put  the  shoe 
on  again. 

CORNS. 

Described  in  the  article  on  Shoeing.  The  most  difficult 
corns  to  treat  are  those  in  weak,  broad  heels.  If  in  a  high, 
strong  heel,  and  contracted,  all  that  is  necessary  to  do  is  to 
trim  out  the  corn,  dress  it  with  a  little  mild  caustic  to  pro- 
duce a  healthy  action,  fitting  the  shoe  so  as  to  preclude  all 
pressure  upon  the  part,  and  the  horse  will  go  off  all  right. 
There  is  not  horn  enough  to  protect  the  heel  from  pressure 
when  the  heel  is  wide  and  weak,  we  must  now  accomplish 
two  ends :  remove  pressure  from  the  sole,  and  at  the  same 
time  make  the  heels  strong  by  growing  strong,  healthy  horn. 
Put  on  a  nicely  fitting  bar  shoe,  which  will  protect  the  heel 
by  bringing  pressure  upon  the  frog. 

The  usual  and  scientific  treatment  is  to  apply  a  strong 
cantharides  blister  right  over  the  seat  of  the  corn,  on  the 
coronet.  Stimulants  of  any  kind  will  increase  the  action. 
Many  remedies  are  used  for  this  purpose  with  varied  effects, 
but  regular  blistering  really  stands  at  the  head  of  all.  There 
is  great  danger  of  separation  from  the  continued  pressure 
of  the  shoe  upon  the  affected  part.  The  blacksmith  may 
tell  you  it  is  a  gravel,  to  shield  himself  from  his  inability 
to  fit  a  shoe  that  will  relieve  pressure.  In  such  a  case  it 
will  be  necessary  to  let  the  animal  lie  still  and  dress  the 
part  with  an  astringent,  such  as  alum  and  water,  sugar  of 
lead  and  water.  After  the  feet  seem  healthy,  put  on  a  bar 
shoe  as  before  stated,  and  put  the  animal  to  work. 

The  following  remedy  seems  to  have  a  splendid  effect  in 
removing  soreness  and  growing  the  feet.  I  know  of  its 
being  sold  for  ten  dollars.  It  is  the  best  thing  for  the  cure 
of  weak,  sore  feet  I  ever  saw.  It  softens  the  hoof  and 
grows  horn  rapidly,  as  well  as  removes  soreness. 

HOOP    LINIMENT   FOR  CONTRACTED  OR  SORE  FEET. 

Venice  turpentine,  J^  pint;  aqua  ammonia,  2  oz.;  salts 
of  niter,  i  oz.;  benzoin,  i  oz.;  alcohol,  3  oz.  Apply  to  the 
edge  of  the  hair  and  all  over  the  hoof  once  a  day  for  a  week; 
after  that,  for  a  week  or  two,  three  or  four  times  a  week,  a* 
may  be  necessary. 


210  DISEASES   AND   THEIR   TREATMENT. 

The  effect  of  this  preparation  on  sore,  weak  feet,  and 
upon  contracted  feet,  in  many  cases,  is  wonderful,  and  is 
undoubtedly  the  best  preparation  for  the  feet  yet  published. 
It  is  well,  however,  to  bear  in  mind  that  the  primary  con- 
dition of  curing  contraction  is  the  use  of  mechanical  means 
of  expansion  as  given  under  that  head. 

STEPPING  ON  NAILS,  GLASS,  OB  ANYTHING  THAT 
PUNCTURES  THE   SOLE   OB  FBOG. 

The  first  thing  to  be  attended  to  is  to  remove  the  nail, 
glass,  or  whatever  it  is,  from  the  foot,  carefully.  See  that 
no  part  remains,  and  remove  a  little  of  the  hoof  from 
around  the  opening.  Drop  a  few  drops  of  Friar's  balsam 
into  the  orifice,  and  cover  the  part  with  a  flax  seed  poultice. 
Friar's  balsam  can  be  obtained  in  almost  any  drug  store. 
If  this  is  not  obtainable  use  the  simple  digestive  ointment, 
given  in  another  chapter. 

HIP  LAMENESS 

Is  a  formidable  disease.  Its  principal  seat  is  in  the  whirl- 
bone  joint,  and  is  usually  caused  by  sprains  or  falls.  The 
animal  from  this  form  of  lameness  will  stand  on  the  affected 
limb,  and  will  not  show  lameness.  The  muscles  are  not 
called  into  action  in  elevating  the  limb.  Then  there  is  a 
dragging  or  swaying  motion  of  the  limb  outwards.  By  plac- 
ing the  hand  on  the  hip  joint,  an  extra  degree  of  heat  will 
be  found  to  invest  this  part. 

Treatment. — First,  absolute  rest;  next,  same  treatment 
and  remedies  as  given  for  shoulder  lameness.  Treatment 
should  be  repeated  until  recovered,  which  requires  from  one 
to  two  weeks. 

BETENTION  OF  UBINE, 

The  most  common  cause  is  keeping  the  animal  at  work, 
not  giving  time  to  urinate,  and  a  spasm  of  the  neck  of  the 
bladder  or  gravelly  concretions;  any  cause  of  irritation 
may  cause  spasm.  Symptoms  are  the  same  as  in  inflamma- 
tion of  the  kidneys,  except  standing  very  wide  behind,  and 
when  walking,  a  straddling  gait  resembling  a  cow  with  a 
very  full  bag. 


DISEASES   AND   THEIR  TREATMENT.  211 

The  most  prompt  treatment  is  to  use  the  catheter,  and 
scarcely  anything  more  is  necessary.  But  if  one  is  not  ob- 
tainable, bleed  freely  and  give  a  strong  opiate.  3  oz.  tinct. 
opium,  in  half  pint  of  water. 

SCOURS,  OB  PURGING. 

This  disease  is  generally  produced  by  two  causes :  change 
of  food  or  water,  or  unhealthy  food,  and  sometimes  through 
nervous  excitement. 

Cure. — Neutralize  the  acids  in  the  bowels  by  giving  an 
ounce  and  a  half  of  prepared  chalk  and  a  dram  and  a  half 
of  powdered  catechu,  mixed  in  a  pint  of  water.  Give  once 
or  twice  a  day  until  purging  ceases.  Keep  the  animal  with- 
out exercise,  and  do  not  give  much  water  to  drink. 

If  this  disease  should  arise  from  nervous  excitement,  give 
a  dram  of  powdered  opium  in  the  food  once  a  day  for  three 
or  four  days. 

PROFUSE  STALING. 

The  causes  of  this  disease  are,  the  improper  use  of  diu- 
retic medicines,  as  saltpeter,  resin,  &c.  Unwholesome  food 
will  sometimes  produce  it. 

Treatment. — Give  one  of  the  following  balls  every  night: 
Powdered  opium,  y%  oz. ;  powdered  kino,  i  oz. ;  prepared 
chalk,  i  oz.  Mix  with  molasses,  and  make  six  balls. 

Or  give  the  following  powder  once  a  day  mixed  in  the 
food :  gentian  powdered,  sulphate  iron,  a  dram  and  a  half 
of  each. 

BLOODY  URINE 

Is  generally  the  result  of  injuries  of  the  loins,  unwholesome 
food,  violent  exercise,  &c. 

Treatment.  — Give  plenty  linseed  tea  to  drink ;  if  the  ani- 
mal refuses  it,  drench  him.  Give  internally,  once  a  day, 
one  of  the  following  pills:  sugar  of  lead,  i  oz.;  linseed 
meal,  2  oz.  Mix  with  molasses  and  divide  into  eight  parts1 

SPASMODIC  ACTION   OF  THE  DIAPHRAGM, 

Commonly  called  thumps,  is  caused  by  severe  and  long 
continued  driving  and  hard  work.     Horses  of  a  nervous 


212 


DISEASES   AND   THEIR  TREATMENT. 


temperament  having  too  much  cold  water  given  to  drink  on 
a  cold  morning,  nervous  irritation,  severe  work  or  excite- 
ment from  any  cause,  may  excite  this  trouble. 

Symptoms. — A  sudden  jerking  or  twitching  of  the  muscles 
of  the  sides  and  flanks ;  pulse  wiry,  quick  and  low,  more  or 
less  fever;  extremities  natural. 

Cure. — This  disease  being  of  a  purely  spasmodic  charac- 
ter, but  in  this  case  wholly  of  a  nervous  nature,  bleeding 
must  be  omitted,  and  must  be  treated  wholly  by  giving 
spasmodic  remedies.  Give  assafcetida,  in  a  dose  of  from 
i  to  3  ounces  of  the  tincture,  mixed  in  a  half  pint  of  wa- 
ter. Given  as  a  drench  will  stop  it  almost  instantly. 

If  necessary,  the  medicine  may  be  repeated  in  two  hours. 
Keep  the  horse  well  clothed,  and  keep  all  exciting  causes 
away  from  him.  The  bowels  should  be  kept  loose  and  regu- 
lar, by  giving  bran  mashes  and  moderate  exercise. 


WOKMS. 

The  symptoms  of  worms  are  debility,  feebleness,  slug- 
gish movements,  emaciation,  staring  coat,  hide  bound, 
skin  covered  with  blotches,  irregular  and  capricious  appe- 
tite, tucked  up  belly,  pallid  ap- 
pearance of  the  lining  mem- 
brane of  the  lip,  badly  digested 
faeces,  rubs  the  tail,  and  where 
fundament  worms  exist  a  whi- 
tish substance  will  be  found 
about  the  fundament. 

Give  of  calomel,  3  drams; 
tartar  emetic,  i  dram.  Mix  and 
divide  into  three  powders;  one  to  be  given  at  night  for 
three  successive  nights.  To  be  followed,  in  twenty-four 
hours,  with  a  good  purging  ball. 


Symptoms  of  Worms. 


Twnia,  or  Tape  Worm, 


Different  Kinds  of  Worm*. 


DISEASES   AND   THEIR  TREATMENT.  213 

INFLAMMATION  OF  THE  EYES. 

Symptoms. — A  watery  discharge  from  the  eye,  eyelids 
partly  closed,  membrane  of  lid  on  under  side  much  red- 
dened. 

In  ordinary  cases  all  that  is  necessary  to  do  is  to  keep 
the  horse  quiet  and  bathe  the  eye  with  cold  water.  Either 
of  the  following  will  be  found  good  : 

Laudanum,  i  oz.;  rain  water,  i  pint.  Mix.  Or,  acetate 
of  lead,  i  dram;  sulphate  of  zinc,  */%  dram;  rain  water,  3 
pints.  Mix  for  use. 

Either  of  the  above  may  be  applied  with  a  soft  sponge 
two  or  three  times  a  day. 

Give  on  the  tongue,  three  or  four  times  a  day,  three  or 
four  drops  of  belladonna. 

More  thorough  treatment  would  be  a  seaton  below  the 
eye,  which  of  itself,  will  soon,  in  most  cases,  effect  a  cure. 

The  following  is  perhaps  one  of  the  very  best  eye  washes 
used.  It  is  a  favorite  remedy  of  great  value.  I  insert  it  as 
given  me. 

EYE  WASH. 

Take  three  hen's  eggs  and  break  them  into  a  quart  of 
clear  cold  rain  water;  stir  until  a  thorough  mixture  is  ef- 
fected ;  boil  over  a  slow  fire,  stirring  every  few  minutes ; 
add  half  an  ounce  of  sulphate  of  zinc,  (white  vitriol ;)  con- 
tinue the  boiling  a  short  time,  and  the  compound  is  ready 
for  use.  In  this  preparation  a  solid  substance,  or  curd,  is 
precipitated  or  thrown  down,  and  a  liquid  solution  rests 
upon  the  top.  This  is  the  best  wash  for  sore  eyes  of  either 
man  or  beast  that  was  ever  made.  The  curd  applied  to  the 
inflamed  eye  at  night  will  draw  the  fever  and  soreness 
nearly  all  out  by  morning.  After  two  or  three  days  the 
water  should  be  strained  from  the  curd,  and  put  into  a 
bottle  for  future  use.  This  eye  wash  is  invaluable.  When 
applied  to  the  human  eye  it  should  be  diluted. 

A  gentleman  who  had  a  copy  of  my  old  edition,  having 
this  remedy  in  it,  informed  me  that  he  was  offered  ^10  for 
the  book  on  account  of  the  value  of  this  receipt,  having 
used  it  in  his  neighborhood  with  great  success,  and  that  he 
would  not  sell  it  at  any  price. 


214  DISEASES   AND   THEIR  TREATMENT. 


CUTS  OR  WOUNDS— REMEDIES  FOR. 

If  the  cut  or  wound  is  very  bad,  trim  the  hair  off  close 
around  the  edges,  and  wash  out  carefully  with  warm  watei 
and  castile  soap.  The  object  next  is  to  produce  a  granulating 
process.  There  is  hardly  any  use  in  sewing  up  cuts,  as  the 
stitches  will  sluff  out.  In  treating  deep  wounds,  or  cuts  or 
ulcers  of  any  kind,  bear  in  mind  that  the  matter  must  be 
sponged  or  syringed  out  daily  with  castile  soap  and  warm 
water,  or  what  is  termed  a  dependent  opening  must  be  made 
for  the  matter  to  run  off.  Matter  alway  burrows  or  pockets. 
The  principle  is  the  same  in  all  cases, — using  caustic  to  cut 
out  fungous  or  other  diseased  growths ;  using  for  indolent 
ulcers  proportionately  more  stimulating  preparations  than 
for  those  in  a  fresh,  healthy  condition. 

THE  FOLLOWING  DIGESTIVE  OINTMENT 

is  unrivaled  for  the  cure  of  cuts  or  fresh  wounds  on  horse- 
flesh, and  is  alone  worth  more  than  the  price  of  this  book 
to  any  horseman. 

For  a  healing  ointment  the  following  is  unrivaled:  2^ 
Ibs.  palm  oil,  2  Ibs.  lard,  ^  Ib.  gum  turpentine,  ^  Ib. 
beeswax,  i  Ib.  calamine.  Simmer  all  together  over  a  slow 
fire,  and  it  will  be  fit  for  use.  Put  a  little  in  the  wound 
once  a  day.  Wash  the  wound  with  warm  water  and  castile 
soap  before  applying  the  ointment. 

A  GOOD  SIMPLE  HEALING  PKEPABATION. 

Blue  vitriol,  in  the  proportion  of  two  drams  to  a  pint  of 
water  is  an  excellent  application  for  wounds.  If  a  caustic 
effect  is  desired,  increase  the  quantity  to  an  ounce  or  more, 
and  it  will  be  found  a  fine  preparation  to  rouse  old  ulcers 
to  a  healthy  action.  Good  for  poll  evil  or  other  ulcers. 

A  fine  healing  lotion  is :  Tincture  myrrh,  i  oz. ;  tincture 
aloes,  2  oz. ;  water,  ^  pint.  Mix,  and  apply  once  a  day. 


DISEASES   AND   THEIR  TREATMENT.  215 


HEALING  OINTMENT  FOB  CUTS,  GALLS,  ETC.    GOOD. 

Oxide  of  zinc,  pulverized  fine,  4  drams;  carbolic  acid,  6 
grains;  lard,  i  ounce.  Melt  the  lard  and  stir  in  the  zinc. 
Add  the  carbolic  acid  and  mix  thoroughly.  Apply  once  or 
twice  a  day  to  the  cut  or  injury.  Will  cause  a  healthy  dis- 
charge from  a  foul  ulcer. 

XINIMENT  FOB  OPEN  WOUNDS.     A  FINE 
PBEPABATION. 

Take  sulphate  of  copper  (copperas),  i  oz.;  while  vitriol, 
2  oz.;  muriate  of  soda  (salt),  2  oz.;  oil  linseed,  2  oz.; 
Orleans  molasses,  8  oz.  Boil  over  a  slow  fire  fifteen  minutes, 
in  a  pint  of  urine,  all  of  the  above  ingredients.  When 
nearly  cold  add  i  oz.  of  oil  of  vitriol  and  4  oz.  spirits  of 
turpentine,  and  bottle  for  use.  Apply  to  the  wound  with  a 
quill,  which  will  soon  set  the  wound  to  discharging,  and 
perform  a  cure  in  a  few  days.  Be  careful  to  keep  the  wound 
covered  either  with  a  bandage  or  a  plaster.  Should  be 
applied  once  or  twice  a  day  until  it  discharges  freely. 


WASH  FOB  FBESH  WOUNDS.     A  FAVOBITE 
BEMEDY  OF  GBEAT  VALUE. 

One  teaspoonful  white  vitriol,  i  teaspoonful  copperas,  2 
teaspoonfuls  fine  gunpowder;  add  to  i  quart  of  boiling 
water,  and  let  it  stand  until  cool.  If  the  wound  is  deep, 
apply  with  a  syringe.  One  of  the  best  of  remedies  for  the 
purpose  recommended. 

LINIMENT  FOB  FOUL  ULCEBS.     GOOD. 

Sulphate  of  copper,  i  oz.;  nitric  acid,  ^  oz.;  water,  8 
to  12  oz. 

COOLING  LINIMENT  FOB  EXTEBNAL  INFLAM- 
MATION.    GOOD. 

Goulard  extract,  i  oz.;  vinegar,  2  oz.;  spirits  of  wine,  3 
oz.j  water,  i^  pints.  Apply  with  a  bandage. 


216  DISEASES  AND  THEIR  TREATMENT. 

FOB  INFLAMED  LEG,  GALLED  SHOULDERS  OB  BACK. 
A  BEALLY  GOOD  THING. 

Sal  ammoniac,  i  oz.;  vinegar,  4  oz.;  spirits  of  wine,  2 
oz.;  tincture  arnica,  2  drams;  water,  ^  pint.  Mix,  and 
bathe  with  it  often  and  thoroughly. 

BUTTEB  OF  ANTIMONY. 

For  corns,  canker,  indisposition  of  the  sole  to  secrete 
healthy  horn,  wounds  in  the  foot  not  attended  by  healthy 
action,  and  for  every  case  where  the  superficial  application 
of  a  caustic  is  needed,  the  chloride  of  antimony  (butter  of 
antimony)  is  one  of  the  very  best. 

STICKING-PLASTEB,  FOB  CUTS  OB  WOUNDS. 

Burgundy  pitch,  4  oz.;  tallow,  2  oz.  Melt  the  articles 
together,  and  spread  on  linen  or  cloth  while  hot.  Cut  in 
strips  of  proper  length  and  width,  and  draw  the  wound 
together;  warm  the  strips  and  apply  them.  Clip  the  hair 
short  where  the  plaster  is  to  be  applied. 

WASH  FOB  SEDUCING  AN  INFLAMED  WOUND. 

One  oz.  sulphate  of  zinc,  i  oz.  crotus  martes,  */&  oz.  sugar 
of  lead,  i  pint  water.  A  sore  will  not  smell  bad  when  this 
wash  is  used. 


SPRAINS  AND  BRUISES. 

It  must  be  borne  in  mind,  the  first  object  in  treating 
acute  inflammation  caused  by  injury  of  any  kind  is  to  lowei 
the  inflammation.  Cold  water,  or  one  ounce  of  sugar  of 
lead  to  a  pint  of  water,  would  be  better,  and  is  a  remedy  of 
great  value,  to  be  used  repeatedly  until  relief  is  afforded. 

The  following  is  excellent :  Saltpeter,  4  oz.;  sugar  of  lead, 
i  oz.;  muriate  of  ammonia,  i  oz.;  common  salt,  i  pint, 
cold  water,  2  galls.  Mix  and  bathe  the  parts  affected;  01 
keeo  constantly  wet  with  the  following,  which  is  good: 


DISEASES   AND   THEIR  TREATMENT.  217 

Tincture  arnica,  2  oz.;  cold  water,  i  quart.     This  will  pre 
vent  inflammation  or  swelling  following  a  bruise  or  sprain. 


ANODYNE  STIMULATING  LINIMENT. 

Spirits  of  hartshorn,  i^  oz.;  sulphuric  ether,  i^  oz.j 
spirits  of  turpentine,  ^  oz.;  sweet  oil,  ^  oz.;  oil  of  cloves, 
yz  oz.,  chloroform,  i  oz.  Put  into  a  strong  8  ounce  bottle 
and  cork  tightly;  keep  in  a  dark  place,  or  wrap  with  paper. 
This  liniment  relieves  pain,  and  is  good  for  lameness,  etc., 
and  for  all  cases  of  strains  and  soreness.  To  be  well 
rubbed  in. 

Oil  of  turpentine,  i  oz.;  tine,  opium,  i  oz.;  soap  liniment, 

1  oz.;  tine,  capsicum,  ^  oz.     Stimulating  liniment;  good 
for  rheumatism,  sprains,  etc. 

MAGIC  LINIMENT. 

Used  very  generally;  good  not  only  for  sprains,  bruises, 
etc.,  after  the  acute  stage,  but  a  fine  counter-irritant  for 
pleurisy,  inflammation,  etc.:  Oil  of  spike,  2  oz.;  organum, 

2  oz.;  hemlock,  2  oz.;  wormwood,  2  oz.;  sweet  oil,  4  oz.; 
spirits  ammonia,  2  oz.;  gum  camphor,  2  oz.;  spirits  turpen- 
tine, 2  oz.;  proof  spirits,  i  quart — 90  per  cent.     Mix  well 
together,  and  bottle  tight. 

^  FOB  FRESH  STRAINS,  ETC. 

Carbonate  ammonate,  2  ounces;  apple  vinegar,  y2  gill. 
Rub  in  well. 


TO  ABATE  SWELLING  CAUSED  BY  AN  INJURY. 

Take  common  wormwood,  2  oz. ;  New  England  rum,  i 
quart.  Steep  the  wormwood  in  the  liquor  and  apply  thor 
oughly. 

A  FINE  SIMPLE  LINIMENT. 

Two  parts  ammonia  to  4  parts  of  soft  water,  good  for 
strains,  etc. 


218  DISEASES   AND   THEIR  TREATMENT. 


THBTJSH. 

This  is  a  rotting  of  the  frog,  with  a  discharge  of  matter 
from  the  cleft  or  division  of  the  frog,  occasionally  producing 
lameness.  The  treatment  is  simple  and  effectual.  Wash  the 
parts  well  with  soap  and  water,  then  apply  powdered 
sulphate  of  copper  to  the  parts,  and  fill  up  all  the  cavities 
with  cotton,  packed  in  so  as  to  keep  out  all  dirt.  This 
process  should  be  repeated  in  a  few  days  if  necessary. 

For  Thrush  or  Canker:  Burnt  alum,  4  oz. ;  sulphate  of 
iron,  2  oz.;  sulphate  of  copper,  i  oz.;  camphor,  2  drams. 
Mix. 

MAOIC  HEALING  FBEPABATION. 

Burnt  alum,  ^  oz.;  prepared  chalk,  i  oz.;  pulverized  gum 
camphor,  i  dram;  calamine,  pulverized,  2  drams.  Mix. 

Sprinkle  on  the  sore.  Its  effect  will  be  apparently  wonder- 
ful, healing  a  simple  wound  in  a  few  hours. 

If  it  is  desired  to  cicatrice  a  wound  quickly,  this  is  to  be 
used.  Good  for  fresh  wounds,  galls  of  collar,  saddle,  or  in 
fact  for  any  purpose  requiring  a  fine  healing  astringent. 
This  is  the  receipt  for  the  wonderful  healing  powder  so 
much  advertised.  Its  effect  will  appear  wonderful  to  those 
not  accustomed  to  its  use.  It  is  just  the  thing  for  sore  or 
lacerated  mouths,  or  any  such  difficulty  requiring  great 
astringent  healing  properties. 

TO  BEDTJCE  SWELLING  OF  THE  LEGS  AND  STBElH&TH- 
EN  THE  TENDONS  AFTEB  HABD  DBIVINO- 

A  favorite  remedy  on  Long  Island.  One  pint  alcohol, 
i  ordinary  sized  beef  gall,  i  ounce  organum,  i  ounce  oil 
of  spike,  i  ounce  gum  myrrh,  ^  ounce  camphor  gum. 
First  wash  and  rub  clean  and  dry.  Then  bathe  with  the 
liniment  and  rub  dry.  Then  apply  again  and  bandage  the 
leg,  being  careful  not  to  bandage  too  tight. 

This  is  the  best  liniment  for  the  purpose  recommended  I 
have  ever  used.  It  should  be  kept  in  every  stable. 

This  is  a  splendid  remedy  for  the  above  purpose. 


DISEASES   AND   THEIR  TREATMENT.  219 

* 

TO  BECBUIT  A  HORSE   HIDE-BOUND   OB  OTHEBWISB 
OUT  OF   SOBTS. 

Nitrate  potassa  (or  saltpeter),  4  oz.;  crude  antimony, 
i  oz.;  sulphur,  3  oz.  Nitrate  of  potassa  and  antimony 
should  be  finely  pulverized,  then  add  the  sulphur,  and  mix 
the  whole  well  together.  Dose:  A  tablespoonful  of  the 
mixture  in  a  bran  mash  daily,  for  a  week  or  two. 

This  will  be  found  an  excellent  remedy.  It  was  given  me 
ten  years  ago,  by  Dr.  T.  Burton,  of  Fultonville,  N.  Y.,  (one 
)f  the  most  successful  of  medical  practitioners,  and  not  only 
one  of  the  best  horsemen  with  whom,  in  my  varied  experi- 
ence, I  have  become  acquainted,  but  one  of  the  best  men  I 
have  ever  met,  and  to  whose  interest  and  encouragement  I 
am  more  than  to  any  other  single  cause  indebted  for  my  great 
success.  It  was  by  this  gentleman's  advice  that  I  made  a  se- 
ries of  models  with  which  to  illustrate  the  principles  of  shoe- 
ing, which  have  so  often  since  been  admired  by  horsemen. 
There  are  a  few  chance  acquaintances  I  have  made  during 
the  inception  of  a  checkered  career  in  my  profession,  the 
icmembrance  of  whom  becomes  at  all  times  only  a  growing 
source  of  pleasure  and  encouragement,  but  chief  of  them 
all  stands  this  gentleman,  whose  encouraging  predictions  I 
now  take  the  liberty  of  acknowledging  in  this  connection, 
as  an  assurance  of  my  continued  appreciation  of  his  inter- 
est so  long  ago,  and  that  I  have  done  the  best  I  could  to 
prove  worthy  of  his  high,  flattering  assurance  of  my  future 
success.) 

CBACKED  HEELS. 

Two  ounces  resin,  2  ounces  copperas,  2  ounces  alum, 
i  ounce  beeswax,  i  pint  tar,  size  hen's  egg  of  tallow;  boil 
over  a  slow  fire,  skim  off  the  filth  and  add  the  scrapings  of 
sweet  elder  a  handful ;  when  cool,  fit  for  use. 

This  is  the  best  local  application  for  cracked  heels  or 
stuffing  of  the  heels  that  I  have  ever  used,  and  is  in  fact 
one  of  the  very  best  of  healing  preparations. 

Six  years  ago,  in  Ohio,  Turco  had  an  aggravated  crack- 
ing and  stuffing  of  heels  of  so  bad  a  character  that  I  feared 
stuffing  of  the  hoofs.  In  defiance  of  all  the  treatment  I 
could  then  think  of  for  cure,  I  was  compelled  to  poultice, 
ai'd  *lid  so  continually,  using  a  variety  of  preparations 


220  DISEASES   AND   THEIR  TREATMENT. 

including  charcoal  and  night  soil  as  experiments.  Of  course, 
I  could  now  manage  such  a  case  easily,  but  at  that  time  all 
my  efforts  were  baffled,  and  there  was  a  strong  prospect  ^ 
my  favorite  horse  I  then  valued  at  three  thousand  dollars, 
being  ruined. 

At  this  time,  an  old  gentleman  who  claimed  some  success 
as  a  "horse  doctor,"  saw  the  case,  and,  against  my  judg- 
ment, insisted  upon  using  this  remedy,  which  he  said  would 
cure  it  in  two  weeks,  and,  to  my  surprise  and  gratification, 
there  was  a  perfect  cure  in  less  than  that  time. 

There  was  no  internal  treatment  given.  It  will  be  found 
a  remedy  possessing  great  curative  virtues  for  this  purpose. 

In  treating  scratches  or  grease  heel,  a  local  treatment 
will  always  be  facilitated  powerfully,  and  is  almost  indis- 
pensable, by  giving  a  dose  of  physic. 

GREASE  HEELS. 

This  is  a  white,  offensive,  greasy  discharge  from  the  heels 
of  the  horse.  The  skin  becomes  hot,  tender  and  swollen. 
The  acrid  character  of  the  discharge  often  causes  large  por- 
tions of  the  skin  to  slough  away,  leaving  an  ugly  sore 
behind. 

Treatment. — Open  the  bowels  with  the  following  ball: 
Barbadoes  aloes,  i  oz.;  pulverized  gentian  root,  2  drams; 
pulverized  ginger,  i  dram;  water  sufficient  to  make  the 
ball.  Wash  the  parts  well,  and  poultice  for  two  or  three 
days  with  the  following :  Flax  seed  meal  mixed  with  a  solu- 
tion of  2  drams  sulphate  of  zinc  to  a  pint  of  water,  which 
keep  clean,  and  bathe  frequently  with  glycerine,  or  the  solu- 
tion of  zinc ;  or  a  solution  of  the  chloride  of  lime  may  be 
used ;  or  the  bichloride  of  mercury  may  be  used  in  inveter- 
ate cases  with  good  results,  prodded  it  is  not  repeated 
oftener  than  once  a  week. 

CUBE  OF    SCRATCHES. 

Four  ounces  tincture  arnica,  4  ounces  glycerine.  If 
leels  are  cracked  badly,  add:  i  ounce  iodine,  2  ounces 
incture  myrrh,  ^  ounce  gun  powder  (powdered  fine.) 
Put  all  into  a  bottle  and  shake  thoroughly;  put  on  two  or 
hree  times  a  day. 


DISEASES   AND   THEIR  TREATMENT.  221 

In  treating  scratches,  first  give  a  dose  of  physic,  or  a  few 
bran  mashes. 

CANKER, 

This  is  a  more  aggravated  form  of  thrush,  often  proving 
very  troublesome  to  manage.  It  is  a  continuation  of  the 
thrush  between  the  horny  frog  and  the  internal  structures  of 
the  foot,  causing  separation  between  them. 

Treatment. — Cut  away  all  the  horn  which  has  been  sepa- 
rated from  the  soft  structures  of  the  foot,  and  apply  the 
following  ointment :  Take  equal  parts  of  pine  tar  and  lard, 
melt  over  a  slow  fire,  and  add  sulphuric  acid  very  slowly 
until  ebullition  (boiling)  ceases,  and  apply  to  the  parts. 
The  foot  must  be  protected  from  dirt  by  a  bandage  or  a 
leathern  boot. 

QUITTER. 

This  is  a  formation  of  pus  between  the  hoof  and  the  soft 
structure  within ;  a  sore  at  the  coronet  or  upper  part  of  the 
foot,  which  at  first  is  a  hard,  smooth  tumor,  soon  becoming 
soft,  and  breaks,  discharging  quantities  of  pus. 

Treatment. — Poultice  the  foot  for  several  days  with  flax 
seed  meal.  As  soon  as  the  hoof  becomes  soft,  cut  away  all 
loose  portions,  but  no  more,  and  inject  with  a  syringe 
either  of  the  following  once  a  day:  Chloride  of  zinc,  2 
drams,  dissolved  in  a  pint  of  water ;  or,  sulphate  of  zinc, 
i^  drams,  in  a  pint  of  water;  or,  nitrate  of  silver,  2 
drams,  in  a  pint  of  water;  or  glycerine  may  be  used  with 
advantage.  Before  using  the  wash  have  the  foot  well 
cleaned  with  castile  soap  and  water. 

MANGE. 

Take  the  horse  in  the  sun  and  scrub  him  thoroughly  all 
over  with  castile  soap  and  water,  then  wash  him  well  from 
head  to  tail  with  gas  water,  in  which  put  2  drams  white  hel- 
lebore to  the  gallon.  He  must  now  be  put  in  another  stall, 
distant  from  the  one  in  which  he  has  been  standing.  Thus 
treated,  it  rarely  requires  more  than  one  washing  to  effect 
a  permanent  cure.  The  harness  should  be  thoroughly 
scrubbed  and  put  away  for  six  or  eight  weeks.  These  pre- 
cautions are  necessary  to  success  in  this  otherwise  trouble- 
some disease. 


222  DISEASES   AND   THEIR   TREATMENT. 

No.  2. — Oil  turpentine,  4  oz.;  oil  tar,  4  oz.;  linseed  oil, 
6  oz.     Mix. 


PREPARATION  TO  KILL  LICE  ON  HORSES. 

One  ounce  of  arsenic  to  a  pail  of  soft  water.  The  horse 
should  be  washed  thoroughly  in  some  warm  place.  It  is 
not  known  to  many  that  hen  lice  and  common  human  body 
lice  grow  on  horses  with  great  rapidity.  This  remedy  is  a 
sure  cure,  and  is  invaluable. 


NASAL  GLEET. 

This  is  a  chronic  discharge  from  one  or  both  nostrils,  of 
a  whitish,  muco-purulent  matter,  the  result  usually  of  neg- 
lected catarrh.  The  general  health  of  the  animal  does  not 
seem  to  suffer;  he  looks  well,  feeds  well  and  works  well, 
yet  we  have  this  discharge,  which  is  caused  by  weakness  in 
the  secretory  vessels  of  the  lining  membrane  of  the  nose. 

The  successful  treatment  in  all  cases  where  this  disorder 
has  existed  has  been  on  tonic  principle.  Bleeding  and 
purging  are  positively  injurious.  Give  one  of  the  following 
powders  night  and  morning:  Seaquin-chloride  of  iron,  2 
oz.;  powdered  cinnamon,  i  oz.  Mix  and  divide  into  four 
powders.  Or:  Carbonate  of  iron,  pulverized  gentian  and 
pulverized  quassia,  of  each  i  oz.  Divide  into  four  pow- 
ders. Or:  Nux  vomica,  pulverized,  ^  oz.;  linseed  meal, 
2  oz.  Divide  into  eight  powders.  Another  good  prepara- 
tion is:  Muriate  of  barytes,  ^  oz.;  linseed  meal,  i  oz. 
Divide  into  eight  powders.  The  last  is  best. 

CAUSTICS 

Are  substances  which  burn  away  the  tissues  of  the  body 
by  decomposition  of  their  elements,  and  are  valuable  to 
destroy  fungous  growth  and  set  up  healthy  action. 

Corrosive  sublimate,  in  powder,  acts  energetically. 

Nitrate  of  silver  is  excellent  to  lower  granulation. 

Sulphate  of  copper,  not  so  strong  as  the  above,  but  good. 

Chloride  of  zinc  is  a  powerful  caustic.  It  may  be  used 
in  sinuses,  in  solution,  7  drams  in  a  pint  of  water. 


DISEASES   AND   THEIR  TREATMENT.  223 

MILDEB  CAUSTICS. 

Verdigris,  either  in  powder  or  mixed  with  lard,  as  an 
ointment,  in  proportion  of  one  to  three. 

If  a  wound  or  an  ulcer  will  not  heal  so  long  as  thf;re  is  a 
foreign  body,  or  unhealthy  growth  in  it ;  hence,  if  a  wound 
or  puncture  from  any  cause,  there  must  be  a  removal  of 
hair,  pieces  of  wood,  bone,  etc.  No  matter  what  you  do, 
if  any  foreign  body  remains  in  the  wound,  it  will  not  heal. 
This  done,  wash  it  or  inject  with  warm  water  and  castile 
soap,  after  which  the  regular  digestive  ointment  can  be 
used,  or  a  mild  solution  of  any  of  the  remedies  recom- 
mended for  the  purpose.  But  if  fungous  growths  cannot 
be  removed  with  the  knife,  a  caustic  becomes  necessary,  a 
little  of  which  is  to  be  put  on  the  part,  or  into  the  sinews. 
Carrying  this  treatment  to  extreme  implies  using  a  hot  iron. 
(The  actual  cautery.) 

FABCST— CUBE  OF. 

One-quarter  pound  sulphur,  ^  pound  saltpeter,  i  ounce 
black  antimony.  If  acute,  give  one  tablespoonful  twice  a 
day.  If  sub-acute,  once  or  twice  a  week. 

The  sum  of  $50  was  repeatedly  paid  for  this  prescription, 
and  it  has  made  some  marked  cures.  It  is  regarded  as 
specific  for  farcy  in  the  portion  of  Ohio  in  which  I  obtained 
it.  In  two  instances,  gentlemen  who  have  used  it  in  the 
treatment  of  farcy  have  informed  me  it  cured,  and  ex- 
pressed themselves  as  valuing  it  worth  $50. 

The  following  is  my  regular  treatment  for  this  formidable 
disease : 

Three  drams  of  powdered  sulphate  of  copper,  given  every 
night  in  the  food,  until  the  animal  refuses  to  eat.  After  a 
few  days  repeat,  but  if  the  case  is  bad  give  the  medicine  in 
water  as  a  drench,  for  ten  days,  if  he  will  not  take  it  in  his 
food. 

CONDITION  POWDEBS. 

Take  i  pound  of  ginger,  i  ounce  of  anise  seed,  pulver- 
ized, i  ounce  of  fenugreek  seed,  2  ounces  of  ginseng  root, 
pulverized,  i  ounce  of  the  seed  of  sumach  berries,  pulver- 
ized, i  ounce  of  antimony;  mix  it  with  one  pound  of 


224  DISEASES   AND   THEIR  TREATMENT. 

brown  sugar.  This  is  excellent  for  coughs,  colds,  or  to 
give  a  horse  an  appetite. 

TO  CUKE  COUGH— NO.  2.    EXCELLENT. 

Put  all  the  tar  into  alcohol  it  will  cut,  and  add  one-third 
in  quantity  of  tincture  belladonna.  Dose:  From  one  to 
two  teaspoonfuls  once  or  twice  a  day.  Very  good. 

TO  CUBE  COUGH— NO.  3. 

Take  tartar  emetic,  i  oz.;  resin,  2  oz.;  bloodroot,  i  oz.; 
salts  of  tartar,  2  oz.;  ginger,  2  oz.  Mix,  and  give  a  tea 
spoonful  three  times  a  day,  in  the  feed. 

COUGH  POWDEB. 

Fenugreek,  ginger,  licorice  and  bloodroot,  equal  parts 
Half  proportion  lobelia  and  camphor  may  be  added.  Dose 
tablespoonful  twice  a  day.  For  heaves,  add  more  camphor 

DIUBETIC  DKOPS 

that  are  reliable  for  stoppage  of  water,  foul  water,  or  in- 
flammation of  the  kidneys,  in  all  cases  : 

Take  of  sweet  spirits  of  nitre,  4  oz.;  balsam  copaiba, 
2  oz.;  oil  of  juniper,  2  oz.;  spirits  of  turpentine,  2  oz.; 
gum  camphor,  pulverized,  i  oz.  Mix  all  together,  and 
shake  well,  bottle,  and  it  is  fit  for  use  for  man  or  beast, 
under  all  cirumcstances  where  a  diuretic  is  required. 

Dose :  For  a  horse,  i  oz.  in  half  a  pint  of  milk  once  in 
six  hours;  for  a  man,  i  teaspoonful  in  a  tablespoonful  of 
milk  once  in  six  hours. 

Be  sure  to  shake  the  ingredients  up  well  before  turning 
out  for  use. 

THE  PULSE. 

The  beating,  as  it  is  termed,  of  the  heart,  and  that  of  an 
artery,  tells  the  exact  condition  of  the  circulation  arid  of 
the  health,  to  the  experienced  practitioner. 

In  a  state  of  health  the  pulse  is  from  36  to  40  in  a  min- 
ute. It  will  be  felt  easiest  and  best  at  the  lower  jaw,  a 


DISEASES   AND  THEIR  TREATMENT.  225 

little  behind  where  the  sub-maxiliary  artery  and  vein  come 
from  the  under  jaw.  Pass  the  finger  down  the  jaw,  up  near 
the  neck  on  the  inner  edge,  and  you  will  feel  a  cord-like 
ridge,  and  upon  quietly  but  firmly  pressing  it  you  will  feel 
it  throb  or  beat.  Each  contraction  of  the  heart  forces  a 
jet  of  blood  through  the  arteries  throughout  the  system. 
The  arteries  are  strong  elastic  tubes,  which  expand  as  the 
blood  is  forced  through  them,  but  contract  again  as  soon 
as  the  volume  of  blood  passes,  forming  a  beat  which  can 
be  plainly  felt  under  the  finger  at  this  point.  It  is  highly 
important  to  understand  the  condition  of  the  circulation 
to  treat  diseases,  especially  of  an  acute  character,  success- 
fully. 

Frequent  reference  is  made  to  the  state  of  the  pulse  in 
different  diseases,  such  as  colic,  pneumonia,  laminitis,  &c., 
&c.  Hence  it  should  be  studied  carefully.  For  example, 
during  the  early  stage  of  colic,  the  pulse  will  be  hardly  af- 
fected, and  the  ears  and  legs  will  be"  natural  in  tempera- 
ture ;  while  in  inflammation  of  the  bowels  the  pulse  will  be 
quick  and  wiry,  ears  and  legs  cold,  &c.  In  fever  it  is 
quick,  wiry  and  light,  indicating  the  extreme  or  not  of  ob- 
struction in  the  circulation. 

BLEEDING. 

For  general  bleeding  the  jugular  vein  is  selected.  The 
horse  is  blindfolded,  or  his  head  turned  away;  the  hair  is 
smoothed  along  the  course  of  the  vein  with  a  moistened 


Raising  the  Vein. 


226 


DISEASES   AND   THEIR  TREATMENT. 


finger,  then  with  the  third  and  little  fingers  of  the  left  hand, 
which  holds  the  fleam,  pressure  is  made  on  the  vein  suffi- 
ciently to  bring  it  into  view,  but  not  to  swell  it  too  much. 
The  point  to  be  selected  is  about  two  inches  below  the 


Bleeding  from  the  Neck  Vein. 

union  of  the  jugular  vein  at  the  angle  of  the  jaw.  (See  cut.; 
The  fleam  is  put  in  a  direct  line  with  the  vein  at  the  center, 
when  it  is  to  be  hit  sharply  with  a  stick.  See 
that  the  fleam  is  large,  sharp  and  clean,  for  if 
rusty  or  dull,  inflammation  of  the  vein  might 
result.  It  is  of  great  importance  that  the 
blood  be  drawn  quickly.  When  sufficient 
blood  has  been  taken,  the  edges  of  the  wound 
should  be  brought  closely  together,  and  kept 
together  by  a  small  sharp  pin  being  passed 
through  them.  Around  this  a  little  tow  or  a 
few  hairs  from  the  mane  of  the  horse  should 
be  wrapped,  so  as  to  cover  the  whole  of  the 
incision  and  the  head  of  the  horse  should  be 
tied  up  for  several  hours,  to  prevent  his  rub- 
bing the  part  against  the  manger.  When  the 
bleeding  is  to  be  repeated,  if  more  than  thiee 
or  four  hours  have  elapsed,  it  will  be  more 
prudent  to  make  a  fresh  incision,  rather  than  to  open  the 
old  wound. 


pin  is  first 
stuck  through 
the  lips  of  the 
wound ;  a.  por- 
tion of  tow, 
thread  or  hair 
is  then  wrap- 
ped  round  the 
pin. 


VALUABLE   MISCELLANEOUS   RECEIPTS.  227 

PHYSICINQ. 

It  is  always  best,  if  possible,  to  prepare  the  horse  foi 
physic  by  giving  a  bran  mash  twenty-four  hours  previously, 
as  the  medicine  will  act  more  favorably  and  there  is  less 
danger  of  superpurgation.  Five  drams  of  aloes  (Barbadoes 
aloes  are  always  used  for  horses)  will  act  as  forcibly  after  a 
mash  as  seven  without.  Again,  the  quantity  of  physic  should 
be  adapted  to  age  and  size.  The  rule  is  to  give  one  drain 
for  each  year  up  to  seven.  Eight  drams  is  the  largest  given 
at  one  dose. 

Physic  Ball:  Barbadoes  aloes,  pulverized,  7  drams;  bar 
soap,  4  drams ;  ginger,  i  dram.  The  usual  way  is  to  mix 
the  ingredients  in  this  proportion,  then  reduce  to  the  weight 
intended  and  give. 

For  Alterative  Balls  simply  give  from  one  to  two  or  three 
ounces  of  mass,  as  above  prepared,  two  or  three  times  a 
week,  for  a  week  or  two. 

For  Worms :  Give  4  drams  aloes,  i  dram  tartar  emetic,  2 
drams  ginger,  about  the  size  of  a  bean  of  calomel,  and 
molasses  enough  to  make  into  a  ball.  To  be  given  every 
morning  for  three  days. 


VALUABLE  MISCELLANEOUS  RECEIPTS. 
The  following  remedies  will  be  found  excellent: 

DBBNCH  FOB  DIABKHCEA. 

Opium,  i  dram;  prepared  chalk,  i  oz.;  compound  pow- 
der of  tragacanth,  i  oz.j  mint  water,  i  pint. 

MEBCUBIAL  ALTEBATIVE  BALLS. 

Calomel,  yz  dram;  aloes,  i  dram;  castilesoap,  2  drains] 
oil  of  juniper,  30  drops ;  syrup  to  form  a  ball. 

ASTBINQENT  BALLS, 

Catechu,  ^  ounce;  alum,  3  drams;  cascartlla,  2  drams? 
flour,  2  drams;  treacle. 


228  VALUABLE   MISCELLANEOUS   RECEIPTS. 

DBENCHES  TO  PKOMOTE  PABTUBITION 

Ergot  of  rye  in  fine  powder,  2  or  3  drams ;  pennyroyal 
water  or  infusion  of  rue,  i  quart. 

FOB  DIABETES. 

Opium,  i  dram;  ginger,  2  drams;  oak  bark,  p.  i  oz.; 
decoction  of  oak  bark,  i  pint. 

COBDIAL  AND  ANODYNE  BALL. 

Castile  soap,  3  drams;  camphor,  2  drams;  ginger,  ij^ 
dram,  and  Venice  turpentine,  6  drams,  made  into  i  ball. 

ABOMATIC  POWDEB. 

Caraway,  6  oz.;  pimento,  4  oz.;  ginger,  2  oz.;  licorice, 
2  oz.  Mix.  Dose,  6  to  8  drams. 

COOLINGF  AND  DIUBETIC  DBINJK. 

Dissolve  i  ounce  of  nitre  in  a  pail  of  water. 

TONIC  BALL  (VEGETABLE  TONIC). 

Peruvian  bark,  i  ounce;  opium,  ^  dram;  ginger,  ij£ 
dram;  oil  of  caraway,  20  drops.  Treacle  to  form  a  ball. 

DIUBETIC  ALTEBATIVE  BALLS. 

Dried  common  soda,  i  oz. ;  castile  soap,  6  drams ;  resin, 
2  oz.;  licorice  powder,  %  oz.;  Barbadoes  tar,  to  form  6 
balls.  One  daily. 

LAXATIVE  ALTEBATIVE   BALLS. 

Aloes,  4  oz. ;  soft  soap,  4  oz. ;  common  moss  a  4  01 
Mix.  Dose  i  oz. 


VALUABLE   MISCELLANEOUS   RECEIPTS.  229 

BALLS  FOB  APPETITE. 

Equal  weights  of  assafcetida,  saffron,  bay  berries,  and 
aloes,  made  into  a  mass  with  extract  of  gentian.  Dose  i  oz. 

ANODYNE  BALL. 

Opium  i/i.  dram  to  i  dram;  camphor,  i  dram;  anise 
seed,  YZ  oz.;  soft  extract  of  licorice. 

COBDIAL  BALLS. 

Ginger  and  gentian,  equal  parts ;  treacle  to  form  a  mass. 
Dose,  i  oz.  to  \Yz  oz. 

Ginger  and  caraway,  each  4  Ibs. ;  gentian,  i  Ib. ;  palm 
oil,  4^2  Ibs.  Beat  together.  Dose,  i  oz.  to  i^  oz. 

MIXED  BALLS,  COBDIAL  ASTBINGENT  BALLS. 

Catechu,  i  dram;  opium,  10  grains.     To  WASH  HORSES 

BEFORE  OR  AFTER  A  JOURNEY. 

DIUBETIO  BALLS. 

Resm  soap  and  nitre,  of  each  equal  parts,  beaten  together 
into  a  mass.  Dose,  i  oz.  to  \%  oz. 

White  soap,  8  oz. ;  nitre,  3  oz. ;  3  resin,  oz.;  camphor, 
3  drams ;  oil  of  juniper,  3  drams.  For  6  balls,  one  every 
morning  or  every  other  morning. 

TONIC  DIUBETIO  BALL. 

Gentian,  i  dram;  ginger,  y2  dram;  sulphate  of  iron,  a 
drams ;  nitre,  j^j  oz. ;  resin,  y%  oz.  Mix  with  molasses. 

FEVEB  BALLS. 

Emetic  tartar,  ^  dram ;  camphor,  }£  dram ;  nitre,  f 
drams ;  ginger,  3  drams.  Mix  in  ball. 


230  VALUABLE   MISCELLANEOUS   RECEIPTS. 

Antimonial  powder,  2  drams;  nitre,  3  drams;  cream 
tartar,  2  drams ;  honey  to  form  a  ball.  In  influenza  twice 
a  day,  after  a  mild  laxative. 


BALLS  FOB  FABCY  AND  GLANDEBS. 

Sulphate  of  copper,  i  dram;  calomel,  20  grains;  common 
turpentine,  3  drams;  licorice  powder  and  syrup  to  form  a 
ball. 

Sulphate  of  iron,  2  drams;  iodide  of  potassium,  10  gr.; 
gentian,  2  drams;  ginger,  i  dram,  and  treacle  to  form  a 
ball. 

COUGH  BALLS. 

Emetic  tartar,  ^  dram;  digitalis,  ^£  dram;  nitre,  ij£ 
dram;  tar  enough  to  form  a  ball.  One  every  night. 

Powdered  squills,  i  dram;  gum  ammoniac,  3  drams; 
opium,  }4  dram ;  syrup  to  form  a  ball. 


FOB  BLOODY  UBINB. 

Acetate  of  lead,  10  gr.;  sulphate  of  zinc,  40  gr.;  catechu, 
4  drams  ;  conserve  of  roses  to  form  a  ball.     One  daily. 

FOB  DIABETES. 

Catechu,  j4  oz.;  alum,  j4  dram;  sugar  of  lead,  10  gr.; 
with  conserve  of  roses  to  form  a  ball. 


ANODYNE  DBENCHES. 

Opium,  i  dram,  dissolved  in  warm  water,  %  pint  ;   add 
i  quart  of  starch  gruel. 

Mix  tincture  of  opium,  i  oz.  with  sweet  spirits  of  nitre, 
i}4  oz.;  ess.  peppermint,  i  dram,  and  water,  i  pint. 


VALUABLE   MISCELLANEOUS   RECEIPTS.  231 

WORM  POWDERS 

Sulphur,  i  oz.;  tartar  emetic,  4  drams;  common  salt, 
8  oz.,  liver  of  antimony,  i  oz.  Mix  for  6  doses;  I  daily, 
in  wetted  corn. 

TO  CUBE  AN  INDOLENT  ULCER. 

Take  the  green  scum  that  gathers  on  the  water  in  the 
frog  ponds  in  the  spring  and  summer ;  boil  over  a  slow  fire ; 
then  add  fresh  butter  to  the  consistence  of  an  ointment. 
This  is  an  Indian  remedy;  cured  an  ulcer  of  seventeen 
years'  standing  that  had  resisted  all  other  treatment. 

The  gentleman  whom  it  cured  deemed  it  so  valuable,  and 
desiring  to  benefit  those  that  may  be  similarly  afflicted,  re- 
quested that  I  would  put  it  in  my  book. 

For  a  lacerated  wound  and  bruise,  I  have  found  the 
following  so  effective  a  remedy  that  I  insert  it.  It  has  a 
peculiarly  soothing,  healing  effect.  I  once  had  one  of  my 
big  toes  crushed  by  a  heavy  horse  stepping  upon  it ;  under 
like  circumstances,  previously  found  even  arnica  or  lauda- 
num to  afford  the  desired  relief;  by  pouring  some  of  this 
on  the  part,  wetting  the  stocking,  in  fifteen  minutes  I  had 
no  pain,  and  had  no  trouble  afterwards : 

Simple  tincture  of  marigold,  called  callendula,  reduced 
one-third  to  one-half  with  soft  water.  Bathe  the  part  re- 
peatedly with  it.  It  possesses  remarkable  healing  qualities. 

GRAIN  FOUNDER-CURE  OF. 

Take  three  pints  of  vinegar,  into  which  put  six  red  pep- 
per pods,  and  boil  until  reduced  to  one  quart.  When  cool, 
give  as  a  drench.  Blanket  the  horse  warmly.  This  will 
put  the  horse  in  a  profuse  perspiration,  and  perform  a  per- 
fect cure.  The  gentleman  of  whom  I  got  this,  cured  a 
valuable  horse  that  got  into  his  granary  and  ate  so  much 
grain  that  he  was  in  the  morning  perfectly  stiff.  One  dose 
made  a  perfect  cure.  He  said  he  would  not  be  without  it 
for  one  hundred  dollars. 


232  VALUABLE  MISCELLANEOUS  RECEIPTS. 

CONDITION  POWDEH. 

One-half  pound  grains  paradise,  ground;  ^  ft>.  ground 
ginger;  ^  ft),  powdered  gentian;  6  oz.  cumin  seed,  ground; 
6  oz.  fenugreek,  ground;  6  oz.  carbonate  soda;  6  ft>s. 
common  brown  sugar;  i^  Ifos.  salt.  Put  in  one  hundred 
pounds  of  meal.  Dose:  one  pint  to  be  given  with  the 
usual  food. 

This  is  considered  one  of  the  best  tonic  condition  pow- 
ders ever  used.  It  is  sold  in  the  eastern  cities  at  a  large 
price,  under  the  name  of  Condition  Food,  and  is  held  as  a 
secret  of  great  value.  I  have  known  $50  to  be  refused  for 
the  receipt. 


MISCELLANEOUS  RECEIPTS. 


THERE  are  chance  receipts  here  that  will  be  found  valuable.  At  all 
events,  I  give  such  plain,  practical  explanations,  and  include  the  best 
remedies,  obtained  by  me  in  various  ways  during  my  experience,  as  I 
believe  best  and  most  reliable.  Dr.  Somerville  informs  the  writer  that 
he  is  having  the  best  of  success  lately  in  treating  colic  and  inflamma- 
tion of  the  bowels  with  the  fever  medicine.  He  gives  about  a  tea- 
spoonful  every  thirty  minutes  until  there  is  relief. 

You  will,  however,  find  the  regular  treatment  under  those  special 
heads,  colic,  pneumonia,  inflammation  of  bowels,  founder,  to  be,  if 
available,  the  best  the  writer  has  found,  and  in  fact  he  gives  the  best 
treatment  he  can.  Altogether,  this  edition  will  be  found  much  better 
than  any  former  one. 

TO      CURE      A    FISTULA,    POLL    EVIL    OR    ANY    INDOLENT 
ULCER. 

Burn  corn  cobs  to  ashes,  fill  the  sore  to  the  bottom  with  the  ashes.  It 
may  be  necessary  to  repeat  two  or  three  times,  until  a  cure  is  effected. 

A  countryman  who  claimed  he  could  cure  any  fistula,  poll  evil,  etc., 
with  one  or  two  applications  of  a  certain  remedy,  brought  forward 
several  neighbors  who  fully  endorsed  his  assertions.  One  man  said  he 
had  a  horse  that  had  been  doctored  for  fistula  for  two  years  without 
doing  any  good,  and  at  large  expense.  He  was  advised  by  this  man 
to  treat  as  above  directed,  and  a  cure  was  effected  in  a  few  weeks. 
Others  who  had  used  it  endorsed  the  statement  in  the  strongest  terms. 
In  the  cases  referred  to  there  was  no  effort  at  dressing  the  ulcer.  The 
ashes  were  stuffed  to  the  bottom,  when  a  granulating  process  set  in 
and  gradually  healed  up.  Being  simple  and  safe  it  is  worthy  a  trial, 
and  persons  using  it  will  confer  a  favor  by  reporting  result  to  me  at 
Buffalo,  N.  Y.,  from  which  point  all  mail  matter  will  be  received. 


TO    CURE    WEAK    BACK. 

O.  J.  Madison,  livery  keeper  and  large  dealer  in  horses,  of  Mas- 
sillon,  Ohio,  a  few  years  ago,  cured  several  very  bad  cases.  One  horse 
was  so  weak  that  he  would  fall  down  and  could  not  get  up ;  said  it 
would  cure  any  case  of  weak  back,  ard  that  he  never  knew  it  to  fail. 

233 


234  MISCELLANEOUS  RECEIPTS. 

Give  one  grain  of  strychnine  flight  and  morning  ;  next  take  equal 
parts  of  pine  tar  and  pitch,  warm  until  it  spreads  easily,  and  spread 
over  the  small  of  the  back,  from  the  hip  forward  ten  inches,  and 
across  to  almost  the  points  of  the  hips  ;  then  spread  on  cantharides 
(should  be  well  pulverized)  until  the  pitch  is  thoroughly  covered ; 
then  cover  with  two  thicknesses  of  cotton  flannel. 

A  stiff  sticking  plaster  of  this  nature  is  called  a  charge,  and  the 
following  is  one  of  the  best  formulas : 

Burgundy  pitch  or  common  pitch,  5  ounces  ;  tar,  6  ounces  ;  yellow 
wax,  I  ounce,  melted  together,  and  when  they  are  becoming  cool, 
half  a  dram  of  powdered  cantharides  well  stirred  in.  This  must  be 
partially  melted  afresh  when  applied,  and  put  on  the  part  with  a  large 
spatula  as  hot  as  it  can  be  without  giving  too  much  pain.  Tow  or 
cotton  should  be  scattered  over  it  while  it  is  warm  ;  this  forms  a  thick, 
adhesive  covering,  which  'cannot  be.*  separated  from  the  skin  for 
months.  This  is  applied  for  old  sprains  of  the  loins,  and  also  strains 
of  the  back  sinews.  The  charge  acts  in  three  ways  —  by  the  slight 
stimulating  power  which  it  possesses,  gradually  removes  all  deep- 
seated  inflammation ;  it  promotes  absorption  of  any  thickening 
beneath,  and  gives  general  strength  to  the  parts. 


DR.  SHELDON'S  TREATMENT  FOR  WORMS. 

Dr.  Sheldon  says  it  never  fails  to  clean  the  worms  out  of  a  horse. 

1st.  Bran  mash.  In  24  hours  give  I  drachm  of  santonine,  which 
should  be  dissolved  in  water  ;  then 'mix  in  a  quart  of  starch,  and  give 
as  a  dreHch ;  in  30  minutes  give  aloes  in  solution  sufficient  to  move 
the  bowels  promptly.  The  rule,  as  to  the  amount  of  aloes  to  be 
given,  is  explained  on  page  197,  under  the  head  of  Physicking. 

The  same  authority  claimed  such  success  in  the  cure  of  Tetanus, 
which  is  among  the  most  difficult  diseases  to  control,  that  I  include 
his  treatment.  He  claimed  that  it  never  failed  to  cure : 

Take  a  large  handful  of  lobelia  (about  I  Ib.) ;  steep  in  a  gallon  of 
water ;  give  one  quart  of  the  infusion  ;  put  poultice  of  same  over  the 
back  of  the  head  ;  same  on  the  cut,  or  part  injured,  and  continue  re- 
peating, at  first  in  thirty  minutes  ;  repeating  at  longer  intervals,  as 
there  is  improvement.  Blanket  warmly  and  keep  in  a  quiet  place. 

Dr.  Sheldon  practices  near  Canandaigua,  N.  Y.;  a  man  of  experi- 
ence He  claims  the  most  perfect  success  by  this  treatment.  He  was 
for  several  years,  Surgeon  in  charge  of  7th  Avenue  R.  R.  stables,  in 
New  York  city.  [Regular  treatment  on  page  165.] 

I  would  remind  that  the  veterinary  practice  is  mixed  and  doubtful 
in  the  treatment  of  tetanus.  Prof.  Somerville  said,  I  have  tried  all 
kinds  of  treatment  and  failed.  It  is  a  hard  disease  to  control. 


MISCELLANEOUS   RECEIPTS.  235 

STICKING    PLASTER THE    VERY    BEST. BY  AN    OLD 

PHYSICIAN. 

Burgundy  pitch,  I  oz. ;  dragon's  blood,  I  oz. ;  oxcoro,  I  oz. ;  Venice 
turpentine,  I  oz.  Put  in  a  cup  ;  melt  together.  Spread,  while  warm, 
on  leather  or  cloth. 

OLD   MR.    GOULD'S   PREPARATION    FOR    PUTTING    ON    THE 
CLAMPS    FOR   CASTRATING    HORSES. 

Mr.  Gould  is  a  resident  near  Bath,  Steuben  Co.,  N.  Y.  He  is 
known  in  that  and  surrounding  counties  for  his  success  in  castrating 
horses,  claiming  to  have  never  lost  a  case,  and  but  little  swelling  after 
the  operation. 

The  writer  took  particular  pains  to  see  the  old  man  operate,  and 
learn  his  secret. 

The  horse  was  laid  down  and  tied  in  the  usual  manner.  He 
washed  the  parts  thoroughly  with  warm  water,  and  then  greased  with 
lard.  The  clamps  were  of  the  usual  kind.  It  is  the  preparation  he 
put  on  the  clamps  that  made  his  success,  he  said. 

He  put  on  the  clamp,  first  rye  flour  paste ;  on  this  sifts  on  equal 
portions  of  red  precipitate  and  corrosive  sublimate,  mixed  together  in 
powder.  In  24  hours  the  clamps  were  taken  off.  This  method  of 
treatment  has  been  pursued  for  many  years  by  a  friend  of  the  author, 
and  he  claims,  with  unfailing  success,  by  never  having  lost  a  case,  and 
is  followed  by  no  appreciable  swelling. 

WIND-BROKEN,    WHEEZING,    OR    WHISTLING. 

On  page  165  is  given  a  remedy  for  the  cure  of  whistling,  and  author- 
ity. This  proof,  when  set  up,  I  was  unable  to  read,  but  arranged,  as  I 
supposed,  for  its  being  made  according  to  copy.  The  printers,  how- 
ever made  a  bad  blunder.  Instead  of  "  sponga  fosta,"  it  should 
read  "  Spongia,  and  Fowler's  "  solution,  20  drops  each,  or  20  drops  of 
one  in  the  morning,  and  the  same  of  the  other  on  the  tongue  at  night, 
and  so  repeating  until  a  cure  was  effected,  requiring  from  four  to  six 
weeks.  Mr.  Conklin  referred  to,  of  25  Jackson  street,  of  that  city, 
informed  the  writer  recently,  after  being  carefully  questioned  about  it, 
after  an  experience  of  nearly  five  years,  that  his  success  has  been  en- 
tirely satisfactory.  Instead  of  dividing  and  giving  alternately  night 
and  morning,  as  before  stated,  he  unites  the  medicines,  and  gives  of 
both,  so  united,  20  drops,  night  and  morning.  He  said  further,  that 
rilling  a  sponge  with  spongia  and  pushing  it  up  the  nostrils  of  the 
horse  until  thoroughly  absorbed  into  the  system,  would  give  marked 
immediate  relief  to  a  heavy  or  wheezy  horse  ;  that  he  depended  upon 
it  for  relief  to  show  up  a  horse  well. 

The  above  medicines  are  not  on  sale  at  the  drug  stores.  Go  to  a 
Homoeopathic  Repository  to  get  them  or  you  will  be  annoyed  and 
disappointed. 


236  MISCELLANEOUS   RECEIPTS. 


TO    CURE    WEAKNESS    AND    WEEPING     OF    THE    EYES THE 

LIDS  SWOLLEN  AND  THE  EYES  WEAK. — FOR  HORSES. 

An  old  man's  Remedy.  Claimed  that  he  never  failed  in  curing 
with  it. 

Take  saltpetre,  i*^  oz. ;  sulphate  of  zinc,  I  oz. ;  suga-r  of  lead,  I  oz. 
Mix  all  with  a  pint  of  vinegar  and  a  quart  of  soft  water.  Take  a 
small  sponge  ;  fill  with  it  and  squeeze  in  the  hollow  over  the  eye  once 
a  day  until  a  cure  is  effected. 


CURE    OF    BIG    LEG    AND    BLOOD    SPAVIN. 

Mr.  James  Brown  of  Troopsville,  Cayuga  Co.,  N.  Y.,  cured  a  Blood 
Spavin,  by  rubbing  on  at  night  a  simple  blister  (i  part  Spanish  flies 
to  4  parts  lard). 

He  put  on  the  blister  at  night,  and  washed  it  off  in  the  morning 
and  applied  a  liniment  of  salalmoniac  and  vinegar  (reduced  one-half 
with  water),  rubbed  in  thoroughly,  using  the  liniment  two  days  and 
blister  one.  It  took  nearly  six  weeks  to  make  a  cure. 

For  Big  Leg,  this  treatment  was  kept  up  for  eight  weeks,  to  make 
a  cure. 

BRUISE  AND  CUT  ON  MAN  OR   HORSE. 

A  favorite  prescription  of  great  value. 

Laudanum,  I  oz.;  arnica  tine.,  I  oz.;  sassafras  oil,  I  oz.  Mix,  band- 
age lightly,  when  possible,  and  keep  wet.  Said  the  gentleman  who 
gave  the  above  prescription,  I  bruised  one  of  my  fingers  terribly,  liter- 
ally smashing  nail  and  flesh.  I  was  in  the  greatest  pain.  When, 
after  hours  of  suffering,  a  gentleman  from  New  York  accosted  me,  and 
learning  my  trouble,  said  for  thirty  cents  I  can  relieve  and  cure  you. 
He  gave  me  this  prescription.  I  had  it  put  up,  kept  my  finger  wet  with 
it  during  the  night,  and  next  day  there  was  no  pain,  and  in  two  days 
my  finger  was  well.  It  removes  all  fire  and  pain  and  heals  by  first 
intention. 

There  are  two  prescriptions  in  this  book  that  are  above  all  price  for 
cuts  and  bruises.  One  is  the  tincture  of  marigold,  called  callendula, 
described  on  page  201,  and  the  above.  For  man  or  horse  they 
are  unrivaled  and  are  worth  far  more  to  any  family  than  the  cost  of  this 
book.  One  of  my  horses  (Tommy),  was  kicked  and  seriously  injured, 
deep  holes  being  made  in  the  shoulder  by  the  corks  of  the  shoe.  Se- 
vere swelling  and  soreness  followed  immediately,  making  the  horse 
seriously  lame  and  sore.  Bathing  thoroughly  during  the  same  evening 
and  night,  following  with  the  first-named  remedy  removed  all  soreness 
and  he  went  to  work  next  day  apparently  as  well  as  ever,  and  the  cuts 
were  healed  in  two  days. 


MISCELLANEOUS   RECEIPTS.  237 

Mr.  James  Ben  net,  of  Cleveland,  a  gentleman  of  great  skill  as  a 
horseman,  and  of  the  highest  integrity,  called  my  attention  to  the  cal- 
lendula  preparation.  Said  he,  I  never  saw  anything  that  would  take 
out  soreness  like  it.  A  stallion  bit  me  on  the  back.  I  was  in  great 
pain.  A  gentleman  obtained  some  of  it  which  he  poured  upon  my 
shirt  over  the  part,  and  in  twenty  minutes  I  was  relieved  from  pain. 
The  writer,  in  Painesville,  Ohio,  had  a  mare  offered  that  pulled,  on  a 
walk,  six  men  by  the  bit  around  the  ring.  It  was  an  exhibition  of  the 
most  desperate  pluck  imaginable.  The  result  was  the  animal's  tongue 
was  cut  fully  half  off,  and  the  mouth  was  badly  bruised  and  became 
terribly  swollen  in  a  short  time.  I  had  a  few  ounces  of  callendula  with 
me,  which  I  had  previously  obtained  to  try  it,  if  opportunity  presented. 
I  reduced  sorae  of  it  one-third  to  one-half  with  water,  and  bathed  the 
mouth  with  it  thoroughly,  repeating  at  first  every  hour,  and  next  day 
every  two  to  three  hours.  In  the  course  of  a  few  hours  the  swelling 
went  down  and  within  three  days  the  tongue  was  healed  and  the  mouth 
was  entirely  well. 

You  can  make  callendula  by  filling  a  bottle  with  marigold  blows 
and  filling  it  with  good  whisky,  and  let  stand  until  the  strength  is  taken 
up  by  the  liquor.  Reduce  this  one-third  to  one-half  for  use.  Or  you 
can  get  it  at  a  homoeopathic  repository.  It  is  not  usually  kept  in 
ordinary  drug  stores. 

COUGH  DROPS,  FOR  COLD  AND  COUGH. 

Fluid  extract  belladonna,  TO  to  15  drops  in  a  tablespoonful  of  water 
on  the  tongue  three  or  four  times  a  day.  If  there  is  swelling  of  the 
glands  of  the  neck,  and  especially  if  the  attack  is  acute,  apply  any 
stimulating  liniment  or  mild  blister — anything  that  will  act  well  as  a 
counter-irritant.  This  works  splendidly  in  most  cases.  In  fact  you  will 
find  it  just  the  thing,  as  we  have  found  and  proved  by  long  experience. 

COUGH  POWDERS. 

An  excellent  remedy. 

Liquorice  root  powdered,  fenugreek,  lobelia,  blood  root,  campl 
gum,  equal  parts.     Dose — tablespoonful  two  or  three  times  a  day  ii 
feed.     In  all  cases  of  acute  or  chronic  cough,  if  thickening  of  glar 
of  neck,  stimulate  outside  neck  sharply. 

EYE  WASH. 

A  remedy  of  great  value  for  inflammation  of  the  eyes  or  sores  of 
any  kind. 

Grotus  martes  and  white  vitriol,  equal  parts ;  dissolve  in  a  half-pint 
of  snow  water  or  pure  soft  water.  Dissolve  thoroughly,  and  when 
settled  pour  off  and  add  half  as  much  more  water.  If  too  sensitive, 
or  much  inflammation,  reduce. 

This  has  cured  fever  sores  when  all  other  treatment  failed.  Alzerah 
Williams,  Mrs.  Waite  of  Jamestown,  N.  Y.,  and  John  Woodford  of 
West  Hickory.  Pa.,  were  cured  by  it. 


238  MISCELLANEOUS   RECEIPTS. 


FOR  DEEP  WOUNDS. 

Prevents  inflammation  or  tendency  to  slo  ighing  or  mortification. 

One  Ib.  saltpetre,  I  gallon  water,  i  quart  best  whisky.  Inject  into 
the  wound  with  a  syringe  three  times  a  day  until  a  cure  is  effected. 

A  gun-shot  wound,  a  foot  deep,  in  the  thigh  of  a  horse  (the  ball 
could  not  be  found,  remaining  in  the  leg)  was  perfectly  cured  in  two 
weeks  by  this  treatment. 

In  treating  deep  and  dangerous  wounds,  especially  if  the  animal  is 
plethoric  or  fat,  take  away  the  grain,  give  a  dose  of  physic,  feed 
bran,  carrots,  etc.  If  grass  is  available  substitute  it  for  hay.  You  can 
also  omit  physic  if  grass  is  given  freely.  The  acid  on  the  grass  neu- 
tralizes physic  and  makes  it  unnecessary.' 

FOR    REMOVING     CALLOUSES    OR    THICKENING,  CURBS    OR 
BUNCHES  OF  ANY  KIND. 

Oil  origanum,  oil  spike,  oil  amber,  spirits  turpentine  and  camphor,  I 
ounce  each.  Rub  on  thoroughly  two  or  three  times  a  week. 

When  in  Ohio,  the  writer  bought  a  fine  work  horse  very  cheap,  on 
account  of  having  a  very  bad  curb  on  one  of  his  legs,  making  a  very 
disagreeable  blemish.  He  was  purchased  late  in  June  and  kept  con- 
stantly to  the  hardest  pulling  as  a  wheel  horse.  A  little  of  the  above 
medicine  was  rubbed  on  about  once  a  week,  sometimes  oftener,  and 
again  would  frequently  neglect  doing  so  for  more  than  that  time.  By 
fall  the  enlargement  was  all  gone,  and  the  leg  was  as  smooth  and  well 
as  the  one  opposite. 

SLOW   BUT    SURE   CURE   FOR   SPAVINS. 

Spirits  of  turpentine  and  hog's  lard,  simmer  in  the  su»  three  or 
four  days.  Apply  three  or  four  times  a  week  until  well.  By  this 
treatment  the  horse  may  be  kept  to  his  work. 


TO   CURE    FITS. 

Put  as  much  valerian  root,  and  the  castor  or  wart  from  a  horse's 
leg,  which  is  to  be  cleaned  and  cut  into  small  pieces,  as  will  be  di- 
gested in  a  pint  of  whisky.  Dose — three  teaspoonfuls  each  day,  and 
repeated  until  a  cure  is  effected.  A  son  of  Mr.  Hoyer's,  of  Shelby, 
Niagara  county,  N.  Y.,  twelve  years  old,  was  subject  to  fits  terribly, 
being  in  a  fit  sometimes,  Mr.  Hoyer  stated,  for  two  hours.  Dr.  Fail- 
ing, of  Royalton,  next  town,  obtained  the  above  remedy  in  Canada, 
which  cured  the  boy  in  six  months.  Mr.  Henderson,  hotel  keeper  of 
Otisco,  N.  Y.,  claimed  to  have  been  cured  by  this  prescription. 


MISCELLANEOUS  RECEIPTS.  239 

A  spavined  horse  will  travel  better  if  the  inside  heel-cork  u  ham- 
mered down,  or  the  inside  of  the  shoe  is  perceptibly  thinner,  so  as  to 
relieve  pressure  upon  the  inside  of  the  leg.  If  ringboned  before, 
hammer  down  the  toe-cork,  and  turn  the  toe  up  like  a  well  worn 
down  shoe,  rounding  up  like  a  sled  crook  with  medium  crooks  be- 
hind. The  object  is  to  enable  the  foot  to  roll  or  turn  on  the  ground 
easily,  and  thus  bring  less  strain  upon  the  joint  which  is  sore  and 
sensitive. 

TO    CURE    CUTS    OR    BRUISES    OF    THE    CHEEKS. 

Use  inside  I  dram  tannin  to  ^  oz.  borax,  three  or  four  parts 
water ;  swab  once  a  day  inside  of  wound.  For  outside  dressing,  use 
tincture  myrrh  and  aloes  (described  on  foot  page  184).  All  wounds 
or  injuries  before  being  dressed  should  be  washed  or  sponged  clean 
with  castile  soap  and  tepid  water,  then  dress  with  medicine.  Wounds 
or  sores  should  not  be  dressed  oftener  than  once  in  24  hours. 


MAGIC    LINIMENT. 

Two  oz.  oil  of  spike,  2  oz.  origanum,  2  oz.  hemlock,  2  oz.  worm- 
wood,  4  oz.  sweet  oil,  2  oz.  spirits  ammonia,  2  oz.  gum  camphor,  2  oz. 
spirits  turpentine,  and  I  quart  proof  spirits — go  per  cent.  Mix  well 
together,  and  bottle  tight.  For  sprains,  bruises,  lameness,  etc.,  in  man, 
this  liniment,  without  turpentine,  is  unrivaled. 


NOTE. — This  prescription  was  obtained  by  the  writer  twelve  years  ago,  in  On 
ondaga  Co.,  N.  Y.  Much  was  claimed  for  it;  that  it  would  cure  lame  back, 
bruises,  sprains,  etc.,  and  with  the  turpentine  worked  well  upon  horse  flesh.  My 
attention  has  been  particularly  called  to  it  during  the  past  two  years  by  parties 
who  used  it.  In  Niagara  Co.,  N.  Y.,  a  gentleman,  in  looking  over  his  book  after 
the  school,  pointed  to  it,  saying :  "There  is  a  receipt  I  would  not  take  $50  for."  He 
said  a  very  fine  horse  in  that  neighborhood  a  few  years  ago  got  strained  in  the 
back  so  badly  that  he  could  not  get  up  in  consequence.  A  negro  from  Syracuse, 
f  took  the  horse  in  charge,  made  and  applied  a  liniment  to  the  back,  bathing  it  in 
thoroughly  twice  daily.  There  was  rapid  improvement ;  the  animal  being  soon 


able  to  get  up,  and  got  entirely  wen.  tte  ottered  tne  negro  $10  lor  tne  receipt, 
without  avail,  that  he  made  the  nigger  drunk  and  stole  the  receipt  from  him, 
kk  and,"  said  he,  "  that's  it  exactly."  He  took  down  a  bottle  from  a  shelf  in  the 
sitting-room  (in  Charlotte,  Niagara  Co.,  N.  Y.),  saying:  "  Here  is  some  of  it ; 
they  could  not  keep  house  without  it  here.  For  toothache,  neuralgic  pains, 
sprains,  etc.,  the  landlady  said  it  was  indispensable  ;  that  they  kept  it  always  in 
the  house."  This  was  corroborated  by  others. 

At  Clifton  Springs,  Ontario  Co.,  N.  V..  during  my  last  tour  through  that  sec- 
tion in  1874,  a  gentleman  pointed  out  the  same  prescription  taken  from  my  old 
book,  and  said  he  would  not  take  $100  for  it  ;  that  he  had  cured  40  cases  of  neu- 
ralgia with  it ;  that  he  put  up  the  medicine  as  a  specialty  for  that  purpose,  _at 
$1.00  a  bottle  ;  first  making  it  up  for  his  wife,  who  was  troubled  with  neuralgia, 
curing  her.  It  was  used  by  others  with  the  same  result.  The  demand  becoming 
so  great  that  he  put  it  up  as  a  specialty  and  had  thus  secured  a  large  local  sale  cf  it. 


2-10  MISCELLANEOUS   RECEIPTS. 


TO   GROW  HAIR. 

Add  as  much  sulphur  to  sweet  oil  as  will  make  it  thick  as  cream 
rub  thoroughly  into  the  tail  or  mane  twice  a  week.  This  w.ll  grow 
hair  on  a  tail  rapidly.  One  of  my  horses  rubbed  the  hair  off  his  tail 
so  as  to  spoil  it.  The  skin  was  smooth  and  glossy,  but  no  hair  would 
grow  there.  Some  one  told  me  to  apply  the  above ;  in  a  short  time  a 
thick  heavy  growth  of  hair  started  and  grew  to  full  length.  Gifford 
lost  all  the  hair  from  his  tail,  falling  out  (in  1873),  in  defiance  of  all 
that  could  be  done.  The  above  was  rubbed  well  into  the  dock  twice 
a  week,  and  a  heavy  growth  of  hair  soon  started,  making  a  fine  tail. 

FOR  SCRATCHES,  SADDLE  GALLS,  ETC.,  SORE  TEATS,  CAKED 
BAGS,  ETC.,  IN  COWS. 

Two  oz.  Goulard's  extract ;  2  oz.  sulphate  zinc  ;  8  oz.  lard. 

Dr.  D.  Van  Camp,  a  resident  of  Theresa,  Jefferson  Co.,  N.  Y.,  in 
1861,  with  whom  the  writer  became  acquainted  at  that  time,  made  a 
sort  of  specialty  of  this  medicine,  to  dairymen,  claimed  that  it  would 
cure  sore  teats,  caked  bags,  etc.  Dairymen  regarded  it  through  that 
section  with  special  favor,  as  the  medicine  sold  readily  for  such  use, 
and  the  receipt  was  sold  to  quite  a  number  of  farmers,  after  the  medi- 
cine was  used  by  them,  for  $10  to  each.  The  Doctor  gave  the  receipt 
to  the  writer  on  condition  of  not  giving  it  to  any  one  in  that  section. 

SURE   CURE   FOR    NEURALGIA  (SELECTED). 

The  Norwalk  Gazette  says :  "  A  friend  of  ours  who  suffered  horrl 
ble  pains  from  neuralgia,  hearing  of  a  noted  physician  in  Germany 
who  invariably  cured  that  disease,  crossed  the  ocean  and  visited  Ger- 
many for  treatment.  He  was  permanently  cured  after  a  short  sojourn, 
and  the  doctor  freely  gave  him  the  simple  remedy  used,  which  was 
nothing  but  a  poultice  and  tea  made  from  our  common  field  thistle. 
The  leaves  are  macerated  and  used  on  the  parts  afflicted  as  a  poul- 
tice, while  a  small  quantity  of  the  leaves  are  boiled  down  to  the  pro- 
portion of  a  quart  to  a  pint,  and  a  small  wine-glass  of  the  decoction 
drank  before  .each  meal.  Our  friend  says  he  has  never  known  it  to 
fail  of  giving  relief,  while  in  almost  every  case  it  has  effected  a  cure." 

TO    STOP    HAIR    FALLING    OUT. 

FiTl  a  bottle  with  lobelia  (roots  and  stems).  Fill  the  bottle  now  with 
whisky ;  scent  with  anything  desirable  ;  wet  the  hair,  rubbing  well 
into  the  scalp,  once  a  day  for  a  week  or  two.  This  is  as  good  as  it 
is  simple.  The  writer's  hair  was  coming  out  badly ;  this  was  used 
with  perfect  success. 


MISCELLANEOUS  RECEIPTS.  241 

BOTS. 

There  has  been  and  is  so  much  misconception  about  bots  and  theii 
destructiveness  to  horses,  that  a  few  words  about  them  seems  advisable. 
All  horses  that  are  exposed  to  the  bot-fly,  must,  as  a  result,  have  bots 
in  their  stomachs.  But  the  question  of  interest  is,  what  can  you  do  for 
the  cure  of  bots.  In  a  report  by  Dr.  Adams,  published  in  the  "  Med- 
;cal  and  Agricultural  Register,"  he  stated,  having  made  the  following 
experiments  at  different  times  on  bots  three-fourths  grown: 

When  immersed  in  rum,  they  live,  25  hours  ;  decoction  of  tobacco, 
II  hours  ;  strong  oil  of  vitriol,  2  hours,  1 8  minutes  ;  essential  oil  of 
mint,  2  hours,  5  minutes.  Were  immersed,  without  apparent  injury, 
in  spirits  of  camphor  10  hours ;  fish  oil,  49  hours  ;  tinct.  aloes,  10 
hours ;  in  brine,  10  hours  ;  solution  indigo,  10  hours.  A  number  of 
small  bots,  with  one  that  was  full  grown,  were  immersed  in  a  strong 
solution  of  corrosive  sublimate,  one  of  the  most  powerful  poisons  ;  the 
small  ones  died  in  one  hour,  but  the  full-grown  one  was  taken  out  of 
the  solution,  six  hours  after  its  immersion,  apparently  unhurt. 

Bots  hang  to  the  muscular  coating  of  the  stomach,  on  the  upper 
side.  We  see  very  plainly  that  we  cannot  put  any  medicine  into  the 
stomach  that  will  affect  the  bot,  that  will  not  destroy  the  coating  of 
the  stomach,  and  injure  or  destroy  the  horse.  In  the  second  place, 
there  is  no  veterinary  surgeon  of  any  pretension  to  skill,  or  being 
authority,  who  can  tell  the  symptoms  of  bots  from  colic.  No  attention 
in  fact  is  given  to  the  subject  of  bots  in  practice.  The  symptoms 
usually  indicate  colic,  the  case  is  treated  accordingly,  and  cured,  and 
the  presumption  of  the  diagnosis  is  supposed  to  be  correct.  No  man 
can  tell  the  symptoms  of  bots  from  colic,  and  if  he  could,  he  could  do 
nothing  for  their  expulsion  ;  this  is  the  opinion  of  the  best  veterinary 
surgeons  in  the  country.  I  have  been  led  to  take  up  time  and  space 
with  this  matter  to  aid  the  reader  should  he  have  occasion  to  treat  an 
attack  of  "bellyache"  or  colic.  The  majority  of  horsemen  will  doc- 
tor anyhow  for  bots  without,  in  fact,  knowing  but  little  about  the 
difficulty.  Do  not  be  misled ;  follow  the  treatment  laid  down  for 
colic  on  pages  146  and  148,  and  follow  it  rigidly.  Do  not  be  misled  by 
persons  M'ho  may  assume  to  know  just  what  to  "  give  to  cure."  The 
treatment  given  has  been  used  by  the  writer  in  hundreds  of  cases  with 
success,  and  it  is  the  standard  treatment  of  one  of  the  best  practition- 
ers in  the  country. 

A  CURE  FOR  RHEUMATISM. 

The  berry  of  the  common  scoke-weed,  or  scoke-root — often  called 
poke  root.  The  berries  when  ripe  should  be  put  into  spirits — gin  is 
the  best — at  the  rate  of  two  ounces  to  the  pint.  Of  the  tincture  thus 
made,  a  tablespoonful  is  given  three  times  a  day.  This  simple  rem- 
edy, persisted  in  for  a  week  or  more,  has  effected  some  remarkable 
cures.  Has  been  published  by  the  press  as  a  renr.dy  of  value  and  is 
thrown  in. 


242  MISCELLANEOUS  RECFIPTS. 

ITCH    OINTMENT    (FOR    MAN). 

I  oz.  red  precipitate ;  I  oz.  spirits  of  turpentine ;  2  oz.  Buigundj 
pitch  ;  %  Ib.  fresh  butter.  Melt  the  butter  and  pitch,  and  add  the 
other  ingredients,  stirring  until  cold. 

VEGETABLE   CAUSTIC. 

Make  a  strong  lye  of  hickory  or  oak  ashes,  put  into  an  iron  kettle, 
and  evaporate  to  the  consistence  of  thin  molasses  ;  then  remove  into 
a  sand  bath,  and  continue  the  evaporation  to  the  consistency  of  honey. 
Keep  it  in  a  ground  stopped  glass  jar. 

This  caustic  is  very  valuable  in  fistulas,  cancers,  scrofulas  and  indo- 
lent ulcers,  particularly  where  there  are  sinuses,  necrosis  (or  decay  of 
bone),  and  in  all  cases  where  there  is  proud  flesh  ;  and  also  to  excite  a 
healthy  action  of  the  parts.  It  removes  fungous  flesh  without  exciting 
inflammation,  and  acts  but  little  except  on  spongy  or  soft  flesh. 

A   VALUABLE    REMEDY    (CLIPPED  FROM  THE  PRESS). 

Every  family  should  keep  a  quantity  of  chlorate  of  potash.  We 
have  never  found  anything  equal  to  it  for  a  simple  ulcerated  sore 
throat.  Dissolve  a  small  teaspoonful  of  it  in  a  tumbler  of  water,  and 
then  occasionally  take  a  spoonful  of  the  solution  so  as  to  gargle  the 
throat.  It  is  nearly  tasteless  and  not  at  all  offensive  to  take,  and  is 
hence  well  adapted  to  children.  Nothing  is  better  than  this  for  chap- 
ped  or  cracked  hands.  Wash  them  in  a  weak  solution  and  they  will 
soon  be  well.  It  is  also  good  for  a  rough,  pimply  or  chapped  face. 
It  may  be  procured  at  any  druggist's. 

SORE   MOUTH. 

The  lips  frequently  become  sore  at  the  angles  of  the  mouth,  from 
cutting  or  bruising  of  the  bit.  Tincture  of  myrrh  and  aloes,  equal 
parts,  applied  to  the  sore,  will  soon  cause  it  to  heal. 

A  VERY  FINE  HEALING    PREPARATION  FOR  CUTS. 

Equal  parts  tine,  myrrh  and  balsam  copaiba.  To  be  used  once  a 
day.  This  is  the  favorite  remedy  of  one  of  the  most  successful  horse- 
men, a  man  of  good  sense  and  remarkably  successful.  It  is  one  of  the 
best  of  healing  remedies. 

TO   CURE   BOILS. 

Two  parts  cream  tartar,  one  part  sulphur,  one  pirt  whisky.  (About 
four  cents'  worth  of  each  of  the  two.) 

Take  one  tablespoonful  three  mornings  ;  then  skip  three  mornings, 
and  so  on,  for  nine  mornings.  Obtained  by  an  old  man,  and  claimed 
to  be  an  infallible  cure. 


MISCELLANEOUS   RECEIPTS.  243 

TO   CURE   COLDS,   CHILLS,   AND   LUNG   FEVER. 

Take  tincture  aconite,  I  oz. ;  veratrum,  £  oz. ;  soft  water,  4  oz. ;  dose 
25  to  40  drops  on  the  tongue,  to  be  repeated  every  thirty  or  forty  min- 
utes, more  or  less,  and  at  longer  or  shorter  intervals  according  to  the 
severity  of  the  case.  You  may  substitute  belladonna  for  the  veratrum ; 
and,  if  there  is  much  chill,  30  grains  of  quinine  can  be  added,  which 
must  be  cut  with  sulphuric  acid  before  mixing. 

The  first  is  the  FEVER  MEDICINE  used  so  generally  in  the  principal 
stables  in  New  York  and  other  cities.  This  is  what  I  use  for  my  own 
horses.  I  have  seen  it  used  for  the  cure  of  hundreds  upon  hundreds 
of  cases  of  inflammation  of  the  lungs,  and  in  all  cases  of  chills  and 
fever  arising  from  exposure  to  cold.  This  prescription  is  priceless  to 
owners  of  horses,  because  it  makes  the  treatment  so  safe  and  simple, 
and  it  is  just  as  good  as  it  is  simple. 

FOR   INFLAMMATION   OF   THE   EYE,   CAUSED   BY   INJURY, 
HAYSEED,    ETC. 

Put  30  to  40  drops  of  the  preparation  into  a  tumbler  of  soft  water, 
and  you  have  a  fine  preparation  for  acute  inflammation  of  the  eye,  the 
result  of  an  injury.  I  have  used  it  with  marked  success.  Bathe  the 
eye  with  it  several  times  a  day ;  keep  the  horse  in  a  dark  stall,  and 
take  away  all  grain.  Feed  green  grass,  bran  mashes,  &c. 

FOR   INFLAMMATION    OF   THE    BRAIN,    OR   MEGRIMS. 

The  horse  is  taken  suddenly  with  a  fit  from  undue  pressure  of  blood 
upon  the  brain.  (See  megrims,  or  inflammation  of  brain.)  Give  the 
fever  medicine  three  times  a  day  for  a  few  weeks,  and  a  cure  will  be 
effected.  Several  horses  subject  to  this  difficulty,  that  required  bleed- 
ing, &c.,  every  few  months,  were  given  the  fever  medicine  three  times  a 
day  for  a  few  weeks.  No  relapse  followed. 

When  the  horse  is  exposed  to  cold,  and  has  a  chill,  ears  and  legs 
cold,  &c.  (see  symptoms  of  lung  fever,  &c.,  in  a  preceding  chapter), 
give  the  fever  medicine  promptly :  DO  NOT  GIVE  PHYSIC  OR  OIL. 
Put  the  horse  in  a  well-ventilated  stall,  where  no  current  of  air  can 
strike  him.  Put  on  a  good  warm  blanket.  You  may  rub  the  legs,  and 
use  even  a  sharp  liniment ;  but  it  is  seldom  necessary  to  do  more  than 
give  the  medicine,  and  let  the  horse  alone.  The  pulse,  ease  of  breath- 
ing, and  the  heat  in  the  ears,  will  indicate  improvement. 

FOR    RHEUMATISM    IN    MAN. 

Three  times  the  writer  has  been  cured  of  severe  attacks  of  rheuma- 
tism, in  two  to  three  days,  by  taking  8  to  10  drops  of  the  fever  medi- 
cine on  the  tongue. 

Years  ago  the  writer,  on  two  occasions,  was  kicked  on  the  shin, 
causing  serious  ulceration,  most  difficult  to  cure.  In  1875  nao^  the  same 
part  badly  cut ;  severe  pain  and  inflammation  followed.  As  a  mere 
matter  of  chance  experiment,  40  drops  of  fever  medicine  were  put  into 
a  glass  of  soft  water ;  a  handkerchief  was  saturated  with  this,  and  tied 
around  the  leg  at  7  and  10,  P.M.,  and  at  7  and  10  o'clock  next  morning. 
All  soreness  and  inflammation  subsided,  making  a  perfect  cure. 


244  MISCELLANEOUS    RECEIPTS. 

Have  used  it  about  same  strength  in  several  severe  cases  of  inflam- 
mation of  the  eye,  from  injury  (in  horses),  with  the  most  marked  suc- 
cess. Simply  bathe  the  lids,  and  drop  it  into  the  eye  from  a  sponge 
from  four  to  six  times  a  day. 

I  state  the  simple  facts,  and  hope  they  may  serve  to  help  others. 

HOOF    LINIMENT    FOR    CONTRACTED    OR    SORE    FEET. 

Venice  turpentine,  £  pint ;  aqua  ammonia,  2  oz. ;  salts  of  nitre,  I 
oz. ;  benzoin,  I  oz. ;  alcohol,  3  oz.  Apply  to  the  edge  of  the  hair  and 
all  over  the  hoof  once  a  day  for  a  week  ;  after  that,  for  a  week  or  two, 
three  or  four  times  a  week,  as  may  be  necessary. 

Gifford,  one  of  my  trained  horses,  when  seven  years  old,  was  found- 
ered. At  that  time  I  knew  nothing  about  the  treatment  of  diseases  in 
horses  ;  and  besides,  I  did  not  see  the  horse  until  five  weeks  after 
being  foundered.  His  feet  became  small,  dry,  and  hard,  and  so  brittle 
and  weak  that  with  three  clips  on  a  shoe  we  could  not  hold  a  shoe 
with  nails  on  either  forefoot.  The  horse  was  a  complete  cripple,  and 
ruined.  The  above  prescription  was  given  me  by  a  Western  man, 
who  claimed  great  things  for  it,  for  curing  soreness  and  weakness  of 
the  feet.  Its  application  two  months  gave  not  only  a  good  condition 
of  the  hoofs,  but  cured  of  all  soreness  ;  and  now,  after  eight  years'  use, 
the  horse  has  sound,  strong  feet.  This  grows  good,  tough  horn  rapidly. 
It  will  make  the  horn  soft,  and,  preventing  evaporation  as  well  as  stim- 
ulating growth,  is  the  best  hoof-liniment  of  which  I  have  knowledge, 
and  is  invaluable. 

NOTE.  —  In  this  prescription  in  another  part  of  the  book,  the  word  "benzoin" 
was  inaccurately  printed  "  benzin." 

A   NAIL   IN   THE    FOOT. 

For  driving  a  nail  into  the  foot,  or  stepping  on  a  nail,  the  following 
treatment  you  can  rely  upon. 

If  a  nail  has  been  driven  into  the  foot,  get  the  horse  to  the  stable  as 
quick  as  you  can,  take  off  the  shoe,  poultice  the  foot,  and  give  a  sharp 
dose  of  physic,  and  let  the  animal  stand  quietly.  The  object  is  to  keep 
down  inflammation.  No  hot  oils  or  any  thing  stimulating  are  to  be 
applied. 

A  little  of  the  digestive  ointment  may  be  used  after  the  inflammation 
goes  down,  to  excite  a  healthy  granulating  process,  or  any  cooling  astrin- 
gent. There  is  liable  to  be  tenderness  if  the  sole  should  strike  the 
ground  afterwards,  as  there  may  be  inflammation  of  the  periosteum,  to 
relieve  which,  put  on  a  high-heeled  shoe,  and  blister  around  the  coro- 
net. The  sole  is  sometimes  bruised  by  the  shoe  pressing  upon  it, 
causing  much  inflammation  and  lameness.  Take  off  the  shoe,  poultice 
for  twenty-four  hours  or  more  ;  fit  the  shoe  so  as  to  remove  all  pressure 
from  the  sole ;  if  sore  yet,  continue  the  poultice ;  if  matter  is  formed, 
treat  as  you  would  any  simple  ulcer,  with  a  healing  astringent.  Several 
good  preparations  are  given  in  another  part  of  this  work. 

NOTE.  — The  digestive  ointment  prescription  is  given  as  the  first  and  best  remedy 
for  healing  cuts  and  fresh  wounds,  under  the  head  of  CUTS. 

FOR    CRACKED    HEELS. 
Two  ounces  resin,  2  ounces  copperas,  2  ounces  alum,  I  ounce  bees- 


MISCELLANEOUS    RECEIPTS.  245 

wax,  I  pint  tar,  size  hen's  egg  of  tallow ;  boil  over  a  slow  fire,  skim  off 
the  filth,  and  add  the  scrapings  of  sweet  elder,  a  handful ;  when  cool, 
fit  for  use. 

This  is  the  best  local  application  for  cracked  heels,  or  sloughing  of 
the  heels,  that  I  have  ever  used,  and  is,  in  fact,  one  of  the  very  best 
of  healing  preparations. 

Years  ago  I  owned  a  horse  that  had  a  fearful  condition,  the  fore- 
feet cracking  and  rotting.  Army  men  said  the  feet  were  taken  as  they 
were  in  the  army,  when  the  feet  rotted  off.  I  despaired  of  being  able 
to  cure  the  horse  —  a  valuable  one.  After  doing  every  thing  that  I 
could  think  of  without  success,  an  old  drunken  horse-doctor  gave  me 
the  above  prescription,  asserting  that  it  would  make  a  perfect  cure  in 
two  weeks.  Its  use  did  cure  perfectly  in  that  time,  and  is  one  of  the 
best  I  ever  saw.  It  is  good  to  heal  any  kind  of  a  cut  or  sore,  saddle- 
galls,  &c. 

FOR   COLIC    IN    HORSES. DR.    BURTON'S    REMEDY. 

A  Favorite  Prescription  of  Great   Value. 

Sulph.  ether,  I  pint ;  aromatic  spirits  ammonia,  I  pint ;  sweet  spirits 
nitre,  2  pints ;  opium,  5-  Ib. ;  asafoetida  (pure),  £  Ib. ;  camphor,  £  Ib. 
Put  it  in  a  large  bottle,  let  it  stand  fourteen  days,  with  frequent  shak- 
ing, and  it  will  be  fit  to  use.  Dose  :  one  ounce,  more  or  less,  accord- 
ing to  the  severity  of  the  case,  once  in  from  thirty  minutes  to  an  hour. 
Should  be  given  in  a  little  water. 

NOTE.  —  By  using  the  same  proportion  of  tincture  for  the  gum  you  can  use  this 
immediately. 

Dr.  Burton  of  Fultonsville,  N.Y.,  regards  this  prescription  for  colic  as  invaluable. 
He  is  a  gentleman  of  high  attainments,  and  large  experience  as  a  medical  man  ;  and 
the  above  he  said  was  the  best  remedy  for  colic  he  ever  used,  that  he  never  knew  it 
to  fail  in  making  a  cure.  He  said  at  one  time  a  boatman  was  about  leaving  his  horse 
to  die  on  the  tow-path,  from  a  severe  attack  oPcqlic,  when  he  came  along.  The  man 
was  induced  to  go  two  miles  for  some  of  the  medicine,  which  relieved  the  horse  in  half 
an  hour.  I  use  the  remedy  given  under  the  head  of  Tympanitis,  or  Flatulent  Colic, 
and  never  knew  it  to  fail  when  given  promptly. 

A    GOOD    APPLICATION    TO    A    PUTRID    ULCER. 

To  remove  fetid  smell  of  fistulous  withers,  poll  evil,  canker,  and 
wounds,  dilute  chloride  of  lime  with  twenty  times  its  quantity  of  water, 
and  dress  with  it  whenever  there  is  an  offensive  discharge ;  mix  a 
poultice  with  this  preparation,  and  put  it  on.  It  will  remove  all  smell, 
and  cleanse  by  its  action. 

SWEATING    OR    LIQUID    BLISTER. 

An  infusion  of  two  ounces  of  Spanish  flies  in  a  pint  of  oil  of  turpen- 
tine. This  forms  a  good  liquid  blister.  If  you  wish  to  make  a  good 
sweating  blister,  so  that  it  will  raise  a  certain  degree  of  irritation  and 
inflammation  on  the  skin,  but  not  sufficient  to  blister,  good  to  gradually 
remove  some  old  or  deep-seated  inflammation,  or  cause  of  lameness, 
add  a  little  common  oil.  Should  be  rubbed  in  well. 

THE    BEST   CORDIAL   FOR   A    HORSE. 

The  following  is  the  best  cordial  for  a  horse  that  is  old,  has  lost  his 
appetite,  and  is  recovering  slowly  from  sickness,  or  for  an  old  horse 
that  has  been  worked  too  hard. 


246  MISCELLANEOUS    RECEIPTS. 

Four  parts  each  of  carraway  powder  and  bruised  raisins,  and  two 
each  of  ginger  and  palm  oil,  beaten  into  a  mass.  This  is  harmless,  and 
is  one  of  the  very  best. 

A   TONIC    BALL. 

Good  for  Chronic  Debility  after  Sickness  or  Overwork. 
Gentian,  4  drs. ;     chamomile,  2   drs. ;    carbonate    of    iron,  I  dr. ; 
ginger,  I  dr. 

DIGESTIVE    FOR   HEALING   RECENT   OR   OLD   WOUNDS. 

They  act  as  mild  stimulants  to  produce  a  healthy  granulating  action 
to  heal. 

The  best  digestive  or  healing  preparation  is  that  given  first,  under 
the  head  of  CUTS.  A  weak  solution  of  blue  vitriol,  in  the  proportion  of 
two  drachms  to  a  pint  of  water,  is  also  a  good  preparation. 

A  very  good  healing  ointment  is  one  composed  of  three  parts  of 
calamine  ointment  and  one  of  common  turpentine.  Sponge  the  cut  or 
wound  with  warm  water  and  castile  soap,  and  dress  with  the  prepara- 
tion once  a  day  —  no  oftener. 

ASTHMA.  —  HOW   CURED. 

Take  smart-weed,  carefully  dried.  Fill  an  earthen  bowl  with  smart- 
weed,  pour  in  hot  water,  and  cover  until  steeped.  Take  half  a  glass 
three  times  a  day  until  cured.  Given  by  James  Garcelon  of  Lewiston, 
Me.  Mr.  Garcelon  for  two  years  could  not  sleep,  except  by  sitting  in  a 
chair.  Relief  was  immediate,  and  a  cure  was  effected  in  a  year. 

Another  Remedy. 

A  lady  of  intelligence  in  Western  New  York  told  the  writer  that  her 
uncle  was  cured  of  asthma  by  taking  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  in  half  a  tum- 
bler of  water  before  going  to  bed  at  night,  and  in  the  morning ;  that  he 
sat  up  to  sleep  for  years ;  that  he  had  taken  the  salt  and  water  for  a  year. 
He  was  entirely  relieved  of  the  asthma,  but  he  kept  taking  the  salt  and 
water. 

HOW   TO   GIVE   RELIEF   IN   OBSTINATE   CONSTIPATION. 

Cyrus  W.  King,  of  Brunswick,  Me.,  was  relieved  by  this  remedy  after 
taking  pills,  &c.,  and  failing  to  get  a  passage  of  the  bowels  for  seventeen 
days.  Put  a  table-spoonful  of  coarse  Indian  meal  into  a  cup,  and  wet 
thoroughly  with  common  molasses,  and  take  it  all.  An  old  lady  who 
happened  to  hear  of  the  case  said  she  could  relieve  the  man  in  a  few 
hours,  and  advised  this.  It  was  taken  at  night,  and  there  was  perfect 
relief  by  morning. 

TO   CURE   COLIC   IN   MAN. 

Take  at  once  a  tumblerful  of  hot  molasses.  A  sailor  who  was  de- 
lirious from  colic,  and  nearly  dead  from  it,  was  relieved  in  five  minutes. 
Calling  my  attention  to  it,  and  claiming  it  would  cure  every  case,  I  was 
induced  to  make  a  note  of  it.  The  sailor  said  he  took  cold  molasses 
with  the  same  effect. 


MISCELLANEOUS   RECEIPTS.  247 


TO   CURE  A   FEVER-SORE. 

Take  3  ozs.  blue  vitriol  and  3  ozs.  gunpowder.  Boil  in  a  quart  of 
soft  water  until  thoroughly  dissolved,  and  reduced  to  one-half  the  quan- 
tity. Pour  on  to  the  sore  while  hot  as  can  be  borne. 

Steven  Johnson  of  Gouverneur,  N.Y.,  was  cured  of  a  fever-sore  on 
his  arm,  of  the  worst  character,  of  a  year's  standing.  Doctors  said  he 
must  lose  his  arm,  —  his  own  words.  There  was  necrosis  of  the  bones 
of  the  arm ;  sores  in  three  places  ;  was  cured  by  one  application.  Mr. 
Olmsted,  of  Oxbow,  N.Y.,  had  a  bad  sore  below  the  knee ;  went  on 
crutches  for  six  months  ;  was  cured  with  one  application.  Several  other 
cases  were  reported  of  an  equally  remarkable  character. 

TO    CURE   AN    INDOLENT   ULCER. 

A  gentleman  who  had  a  fever-sore  on  his  leg  for  seventeen  years,  had 
spent  five  thousand  dollars  in  trying  to  get  the  sore  cured,  and  had  no 
hope  of  having  it  healed,  was  cured  in  three  months  by  the  following 
remedy  :  — 

Take  the  green  scum  that  gathers  on  the  water  in  the  frog  ponds  in 
spring  and  summer ;  boil  over  a  slow  fire ;  then  add  fresh  butter  to 
the  consistence  of  an  ointment.  Dress  the  sore  with  it  once  a  day. 
The  man  claimed  to  have  given  it  to  others  who  were  afflicted  with 
obstinate  ulcers,  and  that  it  had  made  perfect  cures,  and  wished,  from 
humanity  to  others  so  afflicted,  that  I  would  give  it  an  insertion  in  my 
book. 

FOR   WEAK   BACK,    RHEUMATISM,  AND   CRICK   IN   THE   BACK. 

British  oil,  I  oz. ;  oil  of  spike,  I  oz. ;  origanum,  I  oz. ;  camphor,  i  oz. ; 
alcohol,  i  pint.  Put  the  British  oil  and  camphor  into  the  alcohol  first ; 
shake  well.  T.  H.  Brown,  of  Madrid,  N.Y.,  was  cured  of  rheumatism  in 
the  leg  with  this.  His  mother  had  a  crick  in  the  back ;  was  entirely  dis- 
abled. A  few  applications  cured  her.  Accounts  of  its  valuable  effects 
in  the  cure  of  other  cases  were  reported. 

THE   GREAT   TANNING  PREPARATION. 
THIS   IS  THE   GREAT   SECRET   SOLD  A   FEW   YEARS   AGO    for  tanning 

all  kinds  of  skins  with  the  hair  on.   The  secret  and  right  to  use  it  were 
sold  through  the  country  at  large  prices. 

To  two  pails  of  water  add  2  Ibs.  alum  ;  2  quarts  salt ;  2  Ibs.  Epsom 
salts  ;  2  oz.  oil  vitriol.  Wet  and  scrape  the  meat  and  oil  out ;  then  put 
the  skins  into  the  liquid  and  let  stand  from  eighteen  to  twenty-four 
hours. 

REMARKABLE   CURE. 

The  following  is  a  case  of  remarkable  cure  of  bruise  of  thigh,  from 
the  use  of  hot  salt. 

H.  D.  Johnson  of  Pottsdam,  St.  Lawrence  Co.,  N. Y.,  fell  from  a  build- 
ing, twelve  feet,  upon  a  pile  of  wood,  injuring  him  seriously  in  different 
parts  of  the  body  —  the  thigh  very  seriously  bruised,  causing  him  to 
faint  away.  He  had  a  stiff  leg  for  a  month,  the  part  swollen  from  the 
hip  to  the  foot  to  twice  its  size,  was  treated  with  cold  water  by  advice 


248  MISCELLANEOUS   RECEIPTS. 

of  three  physicians.  The  limb  was  entirely  stiff  and  disabled.  As  a 
matter  of  experiment  he  bound  on  a  poultice  of  hot  salt  about  an  inch 
thick  before  going  to  bed.  Next  morning  he  could  move  and  bend  his 
leg,  the  swelling  was  all  gone  down  and  he  was  perfectly  cured. 

The  simple  facts,  as  stated  above,  were  given  to  the  writer  six  years 
after  the  injury  by  Mr.  Johnson. 

FOR   SPAVIN, IN    FIRST    OR   ACUTE   STAGE. 

40  grs.  nitrate  silver  to  2  oz.  water.  Apply  from  three  to  five  times 
a  day.  If  the  horsfe  has  been  driven  or  exercised,  apply  it  when  brought 
in  from  work. 

FOR   SCRATCHES,  —  A   VALUABLE   REMEDY. 
Sweet  oil,  6  oz. ;  borax,  2  oz. ;  sugar  of  lead,  2  oz.     Frst  wash  clean 
with  soft  water  and  castile  soap ;  when  dry  apply  once  a  day.   This  is  a 
good  thing. 

FOR  RHEUMATISM,  LAME  BACK,  AND  DIFFICULTY  OF  THE 
KIDNEYS  (IN  MAN). 

Digitallis,  calcicum,  and  aconite,  equal  parts.  Take  10  to  15  drops  in 
water,  twice  a  day.  This  is  a  favorite  prescription  that  is  valued 
highly,  —  worth,  so  claimed,  many  times  the  cost  of  this  work. 

FOR   STRAIN    OR    INFLAMMATION, 

Whenever  there  is  much  inflammation  from  strain  or  wounds  :  I  Ib. 
saltpetre,  I  gal.  hot  water  ;  when  cool  add  I  quart  best  whiskey.  Sat- 
urate a  sponge  or  cloth  with  the  preparation,  and  keep  the  part  thor- 
oughly wet  with  it. 

HOW   TO   THROW  A   HORSE. 

First,  have  made  a  strong  leather  surcingle,  long  enough  to  go 
around  the  body  of  the  horse,  to  which  have  attached  a  strong  back 
strap  and  crupper.  On  the  off  side  of  the  surcingle,  about  eight 
inches  from  the  back,  have  a  two-inch  ring ;  from  this  ring  to  the  back 
strap  at  the  hip  have  a  strong  double  strap  extend.  Now  put  on  this 
harness,  which  will  be  like  a  bitting  harness. 

Next  take  a  common  hame  strap,  pass  around  the  near  fore  leg 
and  over  the  surcingle,  buckling  only  short  enough  to  allow  the  foot 
to  come  in  a  horizontal  position,  or  the  strap  can  be  tied  around  the 
arm  and  foot.  This  done,  take  a  cord  eighteen  or  twenty  feet  long,  of 
the  strongest  kind  you  can  get,  about  ^  inch  in  size,  if  strong  enough ; 
tie  the  end  into  a  knot;  about  twenty  inches  from  this  end  make 
another  simple  knot,  but  do  not  draw  it  tight.  Now  pass  this  end 
over  the  neck,  put  the  end  knot  through  the  tie,  or  other  knot,  and 
draw  close.  The  object  is  to  have  the  cord  fit  around  the  neck,  some 
distance  from  the  head.  Pass  the  other  end  of  the  cord  through  the 
ring  in  the  side  of  the  surcingle ;  at  the  same  time  let  the  cord  at  the 
other  end  extend  through  the  mouth.  When  the  cord  is  now  drawn 
tight  it  will  be  seen  to  pass  from  the  neck  through  the  mouth  back 
through  the  ring,  and  by  pulling  on  the  end  held  in  the  hand  the  head 


MISCELLANEOUS    RECEIPTS.  249 

will  be  drawn  to  the  side.  The  leg  on  the  opposite  side  being  tied  up, 
when  the  cord  is  pulled  upon  the  horse  must  roll  over  on  his  side. 
This  plan  will  enable  throwing  a  horse  very  easily,  and  will  enable 
doing  all  that  is  possible  to  do  by  this  principle  of  subjection. 

SHOEING. 

In  the  first  place  the  object  of  trimming  and  fitting  the  foot  for  the 
shoe  is  to  bring  it  back  to  its  natural  shape  and  bearing.  If  the  foot 
is  healthy,  the  safest  course  is  not  to  touch  the  frog  or  sole,  but  cut 
down  the  wall  from  the  heel  to  the  toe  until  the  bearing  is  natural. 
The  bearing  of  the  shell  or  hoof  should  be  level.  The  shoe  should 
be  made  to  fit  the  foot,  only  so  much  longer  as  the  foot  will  grow  in 
the  time  it  is  expected  to  be  on.  The  bearing  surface  of  the  shoe 
should  be  level,  and  fit  exactly  all  the  way  roui\d  to  the  foot.  This 
means  just  what  is  said;  and  the  owner  should  see  that  the  shoe  is 
level  at  the  heels,  and  not  beveled-in  cup  shape,  as  shoes  will  usually 
be  found  when  ready  to  be  nailed  on.  Next  see  that  the  shoe  is  as  big 
as  the  foot.  The  best  way  is  to  sternly  object  to  allowing  the  foot  to 
be  touched  with  a  red-hot  shoe,  and  never  on  any  conditions  to  allow 
the  shoe  to  be  burned  into  the  foot  to  fit  it. 

Let  the  nail  holes  be  as  well  forward  in  the  toe  as  possible ;  at  all 
events,  do  not  allow  the  nails  to  go  into  but  one  heel. 

Do  not,  under  any  circumstances,  allow  any  rasping  under  nail 
clenches,  and  none  over  them ;  no  filing  at  all  on  the  outside  of  the 
hoof,  not  even  below  the  clinches,  excepting  enough  down  near  the 
shoe  to  round  the  edge,  but  on  no  account  should  the  hoof  be  cut 
down  to  the  shoe,  because  the  shoe  happens  to  be  small  or  short. 
This  sort  of  work  must  not  be  allowed,  yet  it  is  just  what  all  country 
shoers  will  insist  on  doing.  Simply  let  the  nails  be  cut  off  with  nip- 
pers, clenched  down  upon  the  outside  of  the  horn,  and  if  there  is  any 
soreness  or  tenderness  the  hammering  should  be  light,  and  carefully 
done.  As  to  corks,  &c.,  their  object  is  to  prevent  slipping.  In  a  state 
of  health  the  nearer  the  foot  is  to  the  ground  the  better.  If  the  feet 
are  getting  dry  and  hard,  you  should  take  measures  to  keep  them 
damp,  —  flaxseed  wet  with  water,  stuffing  or  buckling  a  couple  of 
thicknesses  of  wet  blanket  around  the  foot.  The  simplest  way  is  to 
throw  some  water  on  the  bedding  under  fore  feet  during  the  day. 

CONTRACTION. 

If  in  a  state  of  health  the  object  should  be  to  keep  the  feet  natural 
and  healthy,  the  object  now  should  be  to  bring  the  foot  back  to  its 
natural  shape.  If  one  heel  is  drawn  in,  then  this  heel  only  should  be 
brought  back  natural.  If  both  heels  are  drawn  in,  then  both  should 
be  spread  'back.  Two  conditions  now  become  necessary :  first,  that 
the  foot  is  prepared  properly ;  and  second,  that  we  have  mechanical 
means  that  will  enable  spreading  the  heels  without  injury,  yet  as 
desired.  The  practice  of  sawing  between  the  heels  and  frog,  and  then 
putting  on  an  expansion  shoe  and  spreading  the  quarters  outward 
violently,  is  exceedingly  cruel  and  dangerous.  In  the  first  place,  if  the 
object  is  to  weaken  the  horn  between  bar  and  frog,  it  can  be  done  but 


250  MISCELLANEOUS    RECEIPTS. 

vgry  imperfectly  with  a  saw ;  and  violently  spreading  the  heels,  and 
thus,  in  a  measure,  bursting  the  shell  apart,  will  produce  violent  in- 
flammation and  lameness.  Spreading  the  heels  even  in  some  cases  a 
quarter  of  an  inch,  but  little  resistance  may  be  shown,  the  horse  may 
walk  to  his  stable  all  right ;  but  in  a  few  hours,  if  examined,  he  may  be 
in  great  pain,  possibly  in  a  high  state  of  fever.  It  is  really  very  doubt- 
ful policy  for  you  to  intrust  a  good  horse  in  the  hands  of  doubtful 
men  who  travel  the  country,  assuming  to  cure  all  sorts  of  lameness  by 
this  system  of  treatment. 

The  first  thing  to  be  done  in  the  way  of  curing  contraction,  is  to 
thoroughly  soak  the  feet,  by  tying  two  or  three  thicknesses  of  blanket 
around  the  feet  and  keeping  wet  for  24  hours,  or  standing  the  feet 
in  a  tub  in  which  is  some  mud.  When  the  horn  is  soft,  cut  down 
the  feet  level  to  the  point  of  removing  the  superfluous  horn ;  now, 
with  a  knife  adapted  to  the  purpose,  weaken  the  horn  between  the 
heel  and  point  of  the  frog,  especially  back,  near,  and  at  the  point 
of  the  heel.  This  done  properly  on  both  sides,  fit  a  shoe  of  the 
simple  flat  kind  accurately  to  the  shell.  Well  back  at  the  turn  on 
each  side,  cut  or  file  out  enough,  as  shown  in  the  Tyrrell  shoe,  but 
further  back,  so  that  it  will  bend  as  desired,  about  at  the  widest  part. 
Now  lay  on  the  shoe  as  intended  to  be  nailed,  and  mark  on  the  outside 
over  the  inside  of  the  bar  at  the  point  of  the  heel ;  punch  or  drill  two 
holes  through,  if  you  can,  obliquely  the  direction  of  the  bar;  make 
and  drive  two  strong  spikes  from  the  ground  surface  up.  Now  bend 
and  file  these  spikes  so  that  they  will  extend  up  and  back  inside  the 
bar  at  the  point  of  the  heels.  The  shoe  must  fit  all  round :  there  must 
be  special  attention  to  having  those  spikes  fit,  resting  against  the  bar, 
but  not  so  long  as  to  come  against  the  sole  above.  Nail  on  now  care- 
fully. Do  not,  by  any  means,  allow  the  nails  to  be  large,  or  rasping 
of  the  shell  outside.  This  done,  spread  the  shoe  not  over  three- 
sixteenths  of  an  inch,  if  shoe  is  fitted  close.  The  heels,  it  is  seen, 
are  spread  so  far  as  the  shoe  is  opened.  This  spreading  should  be 
repeated  once  every  one  or  two  days,  but  never  more  than  an  eighth  of 
an  inch  at  a  time,  but  follow  it  up  until  the  foot  is  brought  back  to  its 
natural  shape. 

If  the  HEELS  are  WEAK,  do  not  grow  horn  enough,  do  not  cut  away 
any  when  paring  for  the  shoe.  Simply  level  the  foot,  being  as  careful 
as  you  can  not  to  waste  by  undue  cutting  where  there  is  none  to  spare. 
The  shoe  should  be  fitted  carefully,  and  in  this  case  must,  in  a  measure, 
protect  the  foot.  For  where  the  horn  is  light  at  the  heel,  the  sole  is 
also  usually  light,  and  will  not  bear  pressure. 

If  there  is  a  CORN,  you  must  protect  that  part  from  pressure,  and 
this  is  done  best  by  bringing  pressure  on  the  frog  with  a  bar  shoe ;  but 
if  there  is  weakness  or  inflammation  in  the  coffin-joint,  this  is  not  by 
any  means  advisable,  as  it  would  aggravate  the  difficulty.  You  must 
now  use  an  ordinary  open  shoe  with  middling  high  heel-corks,  with  no 
toe-cork ;  on  the  contrary,  you  should  round  the  toe  to  imitate  an  old 
shoe,  by  bending  or  turning  up  the  toe.  If  the  horse  is  stiff  and  sore, 
in  all  cases  round  the  toe,  so  that  the  foot  will  naturally  roll  a  little, 
and  thus  in  a  measure  relieve  the  strain  upon  the  machinery  of  the 


MISCELLANEOUS    RECEIPTS.  251 

foot  and  joint  above  it.  To  make  the  heels  stronger,  that  is,  have 
more  horn,  stimulate  coronary  ring  at  the  upper  edge  of  the  hoof, 
using  a  mild  blister,  just  enough  to  stimulate  sharply,  twice  a  week,  or 
use  the  Hoof  Liniment ;  but  you  must  grow  horn  from  the  top  down, 
and  you  will  not  see  benefit  until  you  have  grown  the  foot  down  pretty 
well.  If  you  have  contraction,  open  the  feet  as  directed,  minding  to 
keep  the  feet  stuffed  when  in  stable ;  at  all  events,  the  feet  must  not 
be  allowed  to  get  dry  and  hard. 

QUARTER   CRACK. 

The  only  practical  way  to  cure  quarter  crack  is  to  open  the  heel  on 
that  side,  between  bar  and  frog,  cutting  well  down,  but  not  to  bleed, 
until  the  quarter  wili  give  freely,  then  put  on  the  shoe  for  expanding 
the  heels.  In  this  case  you  are  to  open  or  spread  only  the  inner  heel. 
The  hoof  is  simply  too  small  for  the  foot,  and  doing  this  properly 
reaches  the  point  directly.  In  addition,  burn  with  a  firing  iron  a  crease 
across  at  the  upper  edge  of  the  hoof.  If  this  is  done  properly  the 
hoof  will  not  split  any  more.  You  may  now  grow  the  hoof  more 
rapidly  if  you  desire,  but  opening  the  foot  and  shoe  is  the  point  of 
success. 

MR.  BONNER'S  SYSTEM  OF  FEEDING. 

In  the  morning,  at  five  o'clock  in  summer,  and  six  o'clock  in  winter, 
each  horse  is  given  two  quarts  of  oats.  At  nine  o'clock  two  quarts 
more  are  given,  and  the  same  quantity  is  given  again  at  one  o'clock. 
Before  feeding,  each  horse  is  given  all  the  water  he  will  take,  unless 
he  is  to  be  driven,  in  which  case  the  allowance  is  cut  short  a  little.  At 
five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  the  allowance  of  hay  is  given,  usually 
about  ten  pounds  to  each  horse,  and  none  is  given  at  any  other  time 
during  the  twenty-four  hours.  At  nine  in  the  evening  each  horse  is 
given  a  hot  supper,  prepared  as  follows:  For  the  ten  horses,  twenty 
quarts  of  oats  are  put  into  a  large  kettle  and  boiled,  after  which  is 
added  about  the  same  quantity  of  wheat  bran  by  measurement,  with 
the  proportion  of  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  to  each  hqrse.  The  whole  is 
thoroughly  mixed,  and  when  sufficiently  cool,  each  is  given  his  share. 
If  not  driven,  each  horse  is  walked  from  half  an  hour  to  an  hour  daily, 
and  the  greatest  care  is  taken  not  to  expose  them  needlessly  for  a 
moment  without  clothing. 

INGENIOUS   ARRANGEMENT 

For  sifting,  cleansing,  and  measuring  the  grain  for  feeding.  The  grain 
is  conducted  from  the  left  to  the  feeding  floor  by  a  spout  in  which  are 
two  slides.  Pulling  one  of  them  out  a  few  inches  permits  the  escape 
of  two  quarts,  and  the  other  four  quarts  of  grain,  which  is  depos- 
ited in  a  drawer  beneath,  in  the  bottom  of  which  is  a  screen  with  the 
handle  projecting  from  the  side  of  the  spout.  Moving  this  handle 
right  and  left  a  few  times  removes  all  dirt  and  dust,  and  leaves  the 
grain  clean  and  fresh,  ready  for  use. 


PROF.  MAGNER'S  EDUCATED  HORSES 


THE  portraits  of  my  horses  and  ponies,  on  the  opposite 
page,  all  stallions,  which  was  cut  from  a  painting  of  them, 
nude  from  life,  by  one  of  the  most  eminent  artists  in  the 
country,  and  is  a  perfect  representation  of  them,  will  give  a 
better  idea  of  their -beauty  and  value  than  any  worded  des- 
cription I  could  give.  They  are  conceded  by  all  who  have 
witnessed  their  performances,  to  be  the  finest,  most  beauti- 
ful, best  educated,  and  most  valuable  troupe .  of  horses  ever 
owned,  for  the  purpose  of  giving  free  exhibitions  by  which 
to  amuse  and  interest  horse  men  and  others  in  my  efforts; 
and  never  before,  perhaps,  was  there  so  fine  and  valuable 
an  equipment  used  in  illustrating  and  teaching  the  science 
of  educating  horses. 

These  horses  are  not  only  of  the  most  varied  character, 
but  their  performances  are  unquestionably  the  most  exci- 
ting and  interesting  ever  exhibited  in  this  country,  showing 
all  the  peculiarities  of  driving  without  reins  or  bits,  and 
show  a  sagacity  and  intelligence  in  the  ring  that  is  conceded 
to  be  most  wonderful. 

TTJH.C  O  . 

TURCO,  the  farthest  on  the  right,  is  a  black  stallion  of 
Duroc-Morgan  blood.  He  is  nearly  fourteen  years  old,  of 
beautiful  form.  He  was,  when  a  colt,  remarkably  viciojs; 
at  four  years  old,  having  resisted  all  efforts  to  break  him,  he 
was  purchased  by  me  of  Esq.  Cole,  of  Smithville,  Jeffer- 
son county,  N.  *Y.,  in  June,  1861.  He  was  trained  by  me 
in  Smithville,  and  among  the  most  interesting  features  of 
his  training  was  that  of  driving  to  carriage  without  bridle 
or  reins.  The  performances  of  this  horse  excited  the  great- 
est attention  in  all  the  principal  towns  and  cities  of  the 
north  and  east.  I  trained  several  horses  to  drive  with  him, 
and  he  has  been  driven  and  exhibited,  double  and  single, 
by  me,  through  the  principal  towns  of  twenty-three  states. 
252 


PROF.  MAGNER'S  EDUCATED  HORSES.  253 

This  ceasing  to  be  a  novelty,  by  the  number  of  horses 
soon  after  so  trained  by  others,  who  assuming  the  most  ex- 
travagant pretensions,  made  jt  no  better  than  a  burlesque,  I 
superseded  it  with  other  and  more  interesting  features  oi 
performance  under  canvas,  as  now  exhibited  by  me  daily. 

This  fine  horse  has  shown  some  peculiar  features  of  saga- 
city. He  will  not  allow  a  stranger  to  loaf  around  him,  will 
allow  any  one  to  approach/  feed,  water  and  clean  him,  but 
curiosity  seekers  who  may  show  any  timidity  in  going  nea* 
him,  are  soon  reminded  that  he  is  not  to  be  trifled  with, 
but  is  perfectly  docile.  / 


GIFFORD,  the  blacb'  horse  on  the  near  side,  is  of  Mor 
gan  blood,  ten  years  old,  and  is  one  of  the  most  beautifully 
modeled,  as  well  as  one^of^the  finest  performing  horses  in 
the  country.  Have  owned  and  exhibited  him  for  nearly 
five  years,  both  north  and  south.  Among  his  most  remark- 
able feats  is  that  of  acting  vicious  ;  or  gen|le  at  will.  He 
will  play  sick  in  the  most  natural  and  wonderful  manner, 
even  groaning  from  apparent  intense  pain. 


Next  on  the  off  side,  to  the  left,  is  Represented  BLIND 
BILLY,  which  is  acknowledged  by  all  witnessing!  his  per- 
formances, to  be  not  only  the  finest  modeled  pon^,  but  the 
most  wonderful  performing  BLIND  HORSP  in  tje  world. 
BILLY  is  now  nine  years  old,  mahogany  bakcolori  fourteen 
hands  high,  and  weighs  nearly  900  pounds.  He  is  as  above 
stated,  totally  blind,  and  has  been  so  for  foiir  years.  He 
•does  everything  by  word  of  command  only!  ajnd  not  the 
least  interesting  peculiarity  of  his  performance  fs  the  atten- 
tion with  which  he  waits  for  and  promptly  obeys  every 
command.  He  will  run  the  ring,  turning  right  or  left, 
go  lame,  walk  on  his  knees,  kick  on  his  krjeeyj  look  for  and 
find  a  handkerchief,  jump  clear  of  the ygrotmd  and  kick, 
walk  on  his  hind  feet  around  the  ring;  or  turn  right  and 
left  in  circles  while  standing  erect  on  his  hind  feet.  He 
will  sit  down  like  a  dog,  turn  right  <fi  .left  while  sitting  on 
his  haunches.  All  this,  and  much  more,  he  does  in  the 
promptest  manner,  at  the  word  |pf  command.  He  is 
acknowledged  not  only  to  excel  all  o'ther  horses,  blind  01 


254  PROF.  MAGNER'S  EDUCATED  HORSES. 

not,  by  the  difficulty  and  variety  of  his  performances,  but 
surpasses  as  well  all  horses  known,  by  his  wonderful  perform- 
ances of  squealing  and  laughing,  at  the  word  of  command. 
The  sum  of  Seven  Thousand  Dollars  has  been  offered  and 
refused  for  this  beautiful  and  wonderful  animal.  He  is  un- 
questionably, the  rarest,  finest,  and  most  valuable  perform- 
ing pony  in  this  country,  if  not  in  the  world ;  and  the 
witnessing  of  his  performances  the  most  instructive  and 
interesting  novelties  of  the  day. 


The  best  Trick  Pony  in  the  World. 

The  nearest  on  the  left  is  the  Spotted  Pony,  TOMMY. 
As  his  appearance  shows,  he  is  the  smallest  and  most  cun- 
ning of  the  group.  He  is  eleven  years  old,  weighs  720 
pounds,  bright  bay  color  with  white  spots,  extending  back 
on  each  side  of  his  body,  and  is  a  perfect  model  in  form. 
TOMMY  is  the  clown  of  the  lot.  He  is  in  himself  a  whole 
show,  and  the  amusement  he  excites  by  his'  unique  per- 
formances is  really  side-splitting;  it  is  not  so  much  what  he 


PROF.  MAGNER'S  EDUCATED  HORSES.  255 

does  as  the  way  he  acts  out  his  performance  that  so 
intensely  amuses.  He  is  as  apparently  innocent  and  gentle 
as  can  be;  even  allowing  a  child  to  go  under,  around,  or 
over  him.  Should  a  rider  even  fall  under  his  feet,  he  will 
either  carefully  step  over  him  or  stand  still  until  the  rider 
gets  up;  yet  in  an  instant  by  the  merest  signal,  his  whole 
nature  seems  to  be  changed  to  the  character  of  a  vicious, 
dangerous  stallion,  with  ears  back,  mouth  open,  eyes  flash- 
ing fire,  and  every  hair  on  his  body  on  end,  he  will  clear 
the  ring  of  all  intruders.  At  such  a  time  there  are  but  few 
of  the  most  courageous  who  will  dare  to  enter  the  ring,  so 
apparently  dangerous  does  he  appear;  yet  as  quickly  at 
command  will  he  assume  his  former  gentle  appearance,  and 
play  with  any  one  or  go  around  the  ring  for  presents.  The 
sagacity  he  exhibits  even  in  this  is  almost  wonderful,  for 
if  given  no  attention  he  will  pass  by  without  apparently 
noticing  a  person,  going  directly  to  those  of  the  sunniest 
nature  by  whom  he  delights  being  caressed,  always  showing 
preference  for  well  dressed  and  good  looking  ladies,  for 
whom  he  seems  to  have  a  great  fondness,  acknowledging  a 
caress  or  a  present  with  the  politeness  of  a  courtier,  by 
a  bow  of  the  head. 

It  is,  however,  in  his  great  contests  with  riders  that  he 
shows  the  most  wonderful  sagacity  and  power,  throwing  or 
not  a  little  boy  easily  and  quietly  as  commanded,  but  send- 
ing the  smartest  and  best  riders  flying  at  will  from  his  back. 
It  is  in  his  great  performance  of  "  throwing  the  boys"  that 
he  brings  down  the  house  with  almost  insane  applause.  I 
have  seen  at.  such  times  the  most  habitually  grave  men  and 
women  laugh  and  scream  with  delight,  until  the  tears 
coursed  down  their  cheeks,  and  in  many  instances  of  per- 
sons lying  down  upon  the  seats,  or  rolling  upon  the 
ground,  yielding  in  their  paroxysm  of  excitement  to  the 
uncontrollable  impulses  which  seized  them.  When  the  elo- 
quent preacher  and  senator  from  Ohio,  Mr.  Garfield,  who, 
with  his  friends  and  faculties  of  the  Hiram  College, 
attended  one  of  my  exhibitions  in  that  place;  so  great  was 
his  pleasure  while  witnessing  this  great  performance  of 
TOMMY'S,  that  he  rolled,  clapped  his  hands,  and  shouted 
lwith  delight. 

The  following  from  the  Cleveland  Leader,  in  speaking  of 
TOMMY'S  performance  during  one  of  my  exhibitions  in  that 


256 


PROF.  MAGNER'S  EDUCATED  HORSES. 


city,  will  better  illustrate  the  excitement  and  interest  which 
his  performance  excites : 

"But  the  most  laughable  scene  took  place  when  the  spot- 
ted wild  horse,  TOMMY,  was  introduced.  He  presented 
every  appearance  of  a  wild  steed,  and  ran  restively  about 
with  distended  nostrils  and  fiery  eye,  his  mane  bristling 
like  the  quills  of  a  fretful  porcupine,  but  at  the  approach  of 
his  master  he  became  as  tame  as  a  lamb.  '  Every  one  was 
invited  to  try  their  equestrian  skill  on  TOMMY,  and  all  who 
tried  were  thrown  to  the  ground,  tenderly,  but  in  the 
twinkling  of  an  eye.  Mr.  Magner  offered  $500  to  any  one 
who  would  ride  TOMMY  one  minute.  Several  tried,  but 


Tommy,  in  his  famous  act  of  throwing  the  Boys. 


none  were  rewarded  with  success.  One  ambitious  gentle- 
man threw  off  hat,  coat  and  vest,  and  said  he  '  would  be 
d — d  if  he  didn't  ride  him.'  TOMMY  was  too  much  for 
him.  He  was  thrown  several  times,  and  finally  concluded 
that  he  had  better  let  TOMMY  have  his  own  way." 

Thus  it  is  seen  I  not  only  give  the  most  interesting  exhi- 
bitions free  under  canvas,  but  being  the  author  of  my  own 
work,  and  handling  and  controlling  the  wildest  and  most 
vicious  horses  daily  in  illustrating  my  system,  and  devoting 
too,  my  whole  attention  to  this  end,  that  I  am  inaugurating 
an  era  of  interest  in  the  study  and  kind  treatment  of  the 
horse,  which  is  in  the  extreme,  commendable  and  valuable 


THE  NEW  SYSTEM  OF  EDUCATING  HORSES. 


THERE  have  been  so  many  who  have  travelled  in  the 
business  of  late  years,  who  have  claimed  to  be  authors  of 
a  new  system,  &c.,  that  a  few  words  of  explanation,  in  re- 
lation to  the  part  I  have  taken  and  of  my  success  in  this 
field,  become  necessary  as  a  matter  of  duty  and  justice 
to  myself  and  the  public. 

I  have  now  been  before  the  public  over  eighteen  years, 
employed  in  imparting  a  knowledge  of  such  principles  of 
educating  and  managing  horses  as  I  found  to  be  most 
simple  and  practical.  I  claimed  and  advertised  a  NEW 
SYSTEM  from  the  start.  In  the  winter  of  1863-64  I  wrote 
and  published  in  Utica,  N.Y.,  at  "  The  Herald  "  office,  an 
exposition  of  my  treatment,  called  "The  New  System," 
copyrighting  the  same  under  that  title. 

Some  time  afterwards  I  sold  to  Mr.  A.  H.  Rockwell,  for 
three  hundred  dollars,  the  right  to  republish  this  work 
under  his  own  name,  a  copy  of  the  contract  of  sale  of 
which  I  have  still  in  my  possession. 

Mr.  Rockwell,  in  the  revision  of  this  book,  implied 
having  taught  me,  of  having  trained  the  horse  I  then 
owned,  &c. ;  when  the  fact  was,  I  was  over  a  year  on  the 
road  before  I  met  or  heard  of  him.  I  had  trained  and 
exhibited  this  horse  nearly  two  years  before  he  saw  him, 
and  was  in  no  way  connected  with  him  except  in  this 
business  transaction. 

I  also  gave  a  gentleman  named  R.  P.  Hamilton  the 
privilege  of  republishing  one  of  the  earlier  editions  of  my 
book,  which  he  did  under  his  own  name,  a  copy  of  which 
edition  I  have  in  my  possession. 

In  March,  1868,  I  started  a  resident  of  Batavia,  N.Y., 
named  O.  S.  Pratt,  in  the  business,  selling  him  two  trained 
horses  —  one  of  them  a  gray  trick-pony  called  Billy — « 
and  a  fancy  advertising  wagon.  At  the  same  time  I  sold 
another  gray  trick-pony,  named  Tommy,  to  a  gentleman 

257 


258          THE    NEW    SYSTEM   OF    EDUCATING   HORSES. 

named  Graves,  a  resident  of  Lockport,  N.Y.  This  pony 
was  afterwards  purchased  of  Mr.  Graves  by  the  said  Pratt, 
and  is  the  same  that  has  been  used  by  him. 

This  man  Pratt,  who  had  carried  on  previously  a  small 
grocery-store  in  Batavia  as  his  sole  business,  and  was  so 
illiterate  that  he  could  not  even  write,  started  out,  adver- 
tising himself  as  the  great  horse-tamer  of  the  world. 
Adopting  the  tactics  of  the  most  presumptuous  quack, 
he  pushed  himself  into  notice.  This  man,  with  others, 
worked  upon  the  Wilkins  horse  referred  to  in  Mr. 
Bonner's  letter  for  a  week,  utterly  failing  to  do  any  thing 
with  him.  He  claimed  that  the  horse  could  not  be 
broken.  I  offered  to  forfeit  $2,000  if  I  could  not  make 
this  horse  gentle  to  handle  with  entire  safety  in  forty 
minutes.  I  did  it  in  thirty  minutes.  This  private  experi- 
ment led  to  my  giving  a  series  of  test  experiments  before 
a  committee  of  leading  horsemen  in  that  city.  With  what 
success  the  reports  which  I  here  copy  will  show :  — 

From  the  New  York  Sunday  Democrat. 

On  Friday  evening  Mr.  D.  Magner  gave  an  exhibition,  to  which 
none  but  invited  guests  were  admitted.  Among  the  horse-fanciers 
present  were  Robert  Bonner,  Dan  Mace,  Ed.  Wilkins,  J.  D.  Walton, 
George  Lewis.  Jacob  Creveling,  Amos  Little,  Dave  Bonner,  W.  S. 
Ridabock,  R.  J.  Anderson,  Arthur  Gillender,  Walter  Briggs,  W.  Jack- 
son, Jo.  Bennet,  N.  H.  Leadbetter,  Jacob  Baulch,  James  Moffatt,  Wil- 
liam Rutzer,  Dr  Ogle,  Dr.  Brighton  of  Boston,  Dr.  Lee,  Henry  Casey, 
J.  C.  Durant,  Isaac  Sonburg,  Dr.  O'Shea,  Hamilton  Busbey,  William 
Watson  of  Westchester,  with  his  two  sons,  William  Apgar,  C.  Moran, 
jun.,  Dr.  Beadle,  James  Morris,  E.  H.  Freeman,  and  M.'Bain. 

After  exhibiting  some  extraordinary  tricks  by  his  trained  horses, 
Mr.  Magner  requested  them  to  choose  from  those  present  a  committee 
to  report  on  his  system. 

The  committee  selected  consisted  of  Messrs.  Robert  Bonner,  chair- 
man, Charles  Swift,  jun.,  secretary,  Dan  Mace,  Amos  Little,  Arthur 
Gillender,  George  Lewis,  J.  D.  Walton,  James  Moffatt,  W.  W.  Briggs, 
N.  H.  Leadbetter,  and  others. 

The  committee  having  taken  their  seats,  Mr.  Magner,  in  a  brief  ad- 
dress, explained  the  main  points  of  his  treatment In  the 

course  of  his  remarks  he  very  justly  stated  that  more  men  than  horses 
require  training. 

A  notoriously  vicious  horse  was  then  brought  into  the  ring ;  and  in 
less  than  thirty  minutes  he  was  trotting  in  harness  as  gentle  as  though 
he  had  always  been  a  family  horse,  and  this,  too,  without  throwing  or 
harsh  treatment.  Mr.  Bonner,  turning  to  the  committee,  said,  "  Rarey 


THE    NEW    SYSTEM    OF    EDUCATING    HORSES.  259 

taught  us  our  A  B  C;  but  Magner  teaches  us  how  to  put  the  letters  together" 
The  committee  are  to  witness  several  more  exhibitions  before  mak- 
ing their  report ;  though,  without  exception,  they  state  that  they  are 
fully  satisfied  with  what  they  have  seen. 

At  the  close  of  the  exhibition  the  following 

AUTOGRAPH  LETTER  FROM   MR.   BONNER 

was  handed  to  the  representative  of  this  paper  :  — 

"OFFICE  OF  'THE  LEDGER,' 
"  Mr.  D.  Magner.  New  York,  Jan.  25,  1872. 

"DEAR  SIR,  —  From  the  conversations  I  have  had  with  you,  and 
from  the  satisfactory  manner  in  which  you  handled  Mr.  Wilkins's 
horse  to-day  in  my  stable,  I  have  no  hesitation  in  saying  that  I  con- 
sider you  the  most  scientific  and  successful  educator,  or  tamer,  of 
vicious  horses  I  have  ever  met.  Mr.  Wilkins's  horse  was  a  most 
vicious  brute.  He  would  kick  with  more  spite  and  determination  than 
any  horse  I  ever  saw ;  and  at  the  same  time  he  would  strike  with  his 
forward  feet.  Indeed,  Mr.  Wilkins  himself  told  me  that  he  was,  to 
use  his  exact  expression,  '  the  worst  horse  in  New  York.' 

"  In  less  than  an  hour  you  succeeded  in  handling  him  as  freely,  and 
with  as  much  apparent  safety,  as  you 'would  any  ordinary  family  horse. 

"  I  have  myself  handled  Princess,  the  famous  old  competitor  of 
Flora  Temple,  on  your  new  system ;  and,  although  she  was  at  one 
time  so  vicious  as  to  be  almost  unmanageable,  my  youngest  boy  —  a 
lad  of  fifteen  —  has,  during  the  past  week,  been  driving  her  daily  in 
the  Central  Park. 

"  All  things  considered,  your  treatment  is,  in  my  opinion,  entirely 
new  and  reliable,  as  well  as  humane  and  practical. 

"  Yours  truly,  "ROBERT   BONNER." 

In  a  conversation  subsequent  to  the  exhibition,  Mr.  Bonner  stated, 
that,  if  he  could  have  made  his  letter  any  stronger,  he  would  have 
done  so. 

Committee  Keport. 

APRIL  9,  1872. 

We,  the  committee  appointed  by  the  citizens  and  prominent  horse- 
men of  New  York  to  investigate  and  report  upon  the  merits  of  Mr. 
Magner's  system  of  training  and  educating  wild  and  vicious  horses, 
respectfully  report  that  we  have  exerted  every  effort  in  obtaining 
horses  of  bad  character  to  test  the  practicability  of  his  treatment,  and 
secured  a  thoroughbred  mare,  owned  by  L.  C.  Popham  of  No.  945 
Broadway.  This  mare  was  fourteen  years  old,  and  had  resisted  all 
efforts  to  control  her  in  single  harness ;  would  kick  herself  free  from 
shafts,  and  run  away  at  all  hazards.  Also,  a  thoroughbred  gelding, 
sixteen  years  old,  owned  by  H.  L.  Herbert  of  Red  Bank,  NJ.  He 
would  balk  while  riding,  kicking  and  running  away  while  in  harness, 
and  was  so  vicious  that  he  could  not  be  driven  or  controlled  in  har- 
ness ;  was  purchased  by  Mr.  Herbert  for  $2,500;  proved  so  worthless 
that  he  sold  him  for  $150,  and  afterwards  repurchased  him  for  $25. 
Also,  a  fine  Star  mare,  owned  by  R.  L.  Pell,  Esq.,  of  Fifth  Avenue 
and  Twenty-sixth  Street ;  would  kick  herself  free  in  single  harness, 


2GO  THE    NEW    SYSTEM    OF    EDUCATING   HORSES. 

and  would  run  away.  This  mare  could  not  be  driven  single.  These, 
with  others,  were  handled  in  our  presence,  including  a  large  number 
of  prominent  citizens  and  members  of  the  press,  all  of  whom  were 
invited  to  witness  the  experiments  proposed  to  be  made  before  this 
committee. 

In  eighteen  minutes  (without  throwing  or  any  cruelty)  the  Professor 
made  the  Herbert  horse  so  docile,  that  he  could  be  driven  with  the 
greatest  freedom  without  breeching,  demonstrating  the  most  wonder- 
ful change  in  his  character.  The  owner  publicly  stated  the  fact  of  his 
former  vicious  reputation  and  unmanageable  habits.  The  Popham 
mare  was  driven  with  equal  success  in  twenty-seven  minutes,  submit- 
ting to  all  kinds  of  handling,  even  from  strangers.  The  Pell  mare 
was  next  handled,  and  driven  gently  in  ten  minutes,  and  the  other 
horses  with  the  same  marked  success. 

We  have  carefully  studied  the  merits  of  this  treatment,  and  have 
no  hesitation  in  saying  that  Prof.  Magner  is  the  most  skilful  and  suc- 
cessful horse  tamer  and  educator  who  has  ever  visited  this  city.  His 
treatment  reduces  the  subjection  and  education  of  horses  to  a  definite 
and  fixed  science,  and  is  in  principle  and  effect  entirely  superior  to 
any  other  ever  brought  to  our  notice,  and  inaugurates  a  new  era  in 
the  subjection  of  horses.  The  great  ease  and  certainty  with  which 
horses  of  extreme  viciousness  can  be  controlled  by  this  treatment 
makes  the  knowledge  of  it  indispensable  to  all  interested  in  horses, 
particularly  to  farmers  and  those  who  raise  colts,  and  induces  this 
committee  to  recommend  all  who  can  to  attend  Prof.  Magner's  lec- 
tures, and  obtain  a  copy  of  his  book. 

We,  the  committee  and  members  of  Mr.  Magner's  class,  would 
state  that  we  have  never  given  our  indorsement  to  any  other  party 
travelling  for  this  same  purpose. 

GEO.  LEWIS  (Proprietor  Sale  and  Boarding  Stable,  Fiftieth  Street). 
J.  D.  DUN  WALTON   (Proprietor  Boarding  and   Sale  Stable,  Thirty- 
ninth  Street). 

DAN  MACE  (Proprietor  Sale  Stable,  Forty-ninth  Street). 
W.  W.  BRIGGS  (Proprietor  Tattersall  Stable,  Seventh  Avenue  and 

Forty-second  Street). 
ARTHUR  GILLENDER. 
N.  II.  LEADBETTER  (Proprietor  Livery  and  Sale   Stables,  Seventh 

Avenue  and  Forty -fifth  Street.) 
TAMES  MOFFAT.  ROBERT   BONNER,  Chairman. 

CHARLES   SWIFT,  JUN.,  Secretary. 

The  following  well-known  gentlemen,  with  one  hundred  others, 
fully  indorse  Mr.  Magner's  system  as  the  best  and  most  humane  they 
have  ever  witnessed  :  — 

FRANK  D.  CURTIS,  Esq.,  Vice-President  State  Agricultural  Society, 
Charlton,  Saratoga  Co.,  N.Y. 

DAVID  BONNER,  Esq.,  brother  of  Robert  Bonner. 

G.  CHAPMAN,  Esq.,  inventor  of  Chapman's  patent  safety  reins. 

E.  H.  HATHORN,  proprietor  boarding  and  sale  stable,  Thirty- 
eighth  Street,  New  York. 


THE    NEW    SYSTEM    OF    EDUCATING    HORSES.  261 

RALPH  OGLE,  V.S.,  330  West  Twenty-fifth  Street,  New  York. 

L.  H.  BRAILY,  V.S.,  chief  veterinary  surgeon  U.  S.  cavalry. 

D.  COSTELLO,  Esq.,  circus  proprietor,  with  P.  T.  Barnum's  show. 

J.  E.  WILKINS,  owner  of  vicious  horse  mentioned  in  Mr.  Bonner's 
letter. 

BUDD  DOBLE,  driver  of  Goldsmith  Maid,  South  Pennsylvania 
Square,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 

O.  H.  HICKOK,  driver  of  Lucy,  St.  Elmo,  and  Western  Girl,  Cole- 
man  House,  New  York. 

FRANK  LESLIE,  Esq.,  publisher  of  Frank  Leslie's  weeklies,  &c. 

JAMES  HARPER,  Esq.,  of  Harper  Bros.,  publishers. 

Rev.  Dr.  FIELD,  editor  "  New- York  Evangelist." 

SIDNEY  E.  MORSE,  Esq.,  publisher  "New- York  Observer." 

Rev.  E.  P.  ROE,  chaplain  in  Harris's  light  cavalry,  now  of  Highland 
Falls,  N.Y. 

Buffalo  (N.Y.)  Class. 

The  Buffalo,  N.Y.,  Class,  represented  by  the  following  well-known 
citizens,  GEORGE  W.  TIFFT,  Esq.,  Judge  MASTEN,  Major  DICKEY, 
C.  J.  HAMLIN,  Esq.,  and  F.  W.  TRACY,  Esq.,  unanimously  resolved, 
that  "  we  commend  Prof.  Magner  to  our  friends  as  a  reformer  of  more 
than  ordinary  usefulness ;  that  his  theory  of  governing  and  educating 
horses  is  the  most  practical,  humane,  and  valuable  in  its  results  we 
have  ever  witnessed  ;  and  can  be  learned  and  practised  by  any  one  of 
ordinary  intelligence." 

Cleveland  (O.)  Class. 

At  the  close  of  the  last  lecture  of  his  course  in  Cleveland,  the  fol- 
lowing resolution  was  moved  by  Hon.  Silas  Merchant  (President  of  the 
City  Council),  which  was  carried  by  acclamation  of  the  entire  class, 
which  comprised  one  thousand  leading  citizens. 

Resolved,  That  we,  as  members  of  Prof.  Magner's  class  in  this  city, 
deem  it  but  a  just  recognition  of  his  skill  and  success  in  teaching  us  his 
system  of  educating  horses,  which  we  regard  as  the  best  ever  shown 
us  ;  and  for  his  gentlemanly  demeanor ;  that  we  are  fully  satisfied  with 
his  instructions,  hereby  indorse  him  and  his  system  of  educating  and 
treating  horses,  to  our  friends  and  the  public. 

From  the  Toledo  (O.)  Commercial. 

Monday,  the  last  lesson  of  Prof.  Magner  to  his  class  in  Toledo  was 
given.  His  success  here  has  been  unprecedented,  and  his  teachings 
unparalleled  in  their  line.  What  the  members  of  the  class  have  learned 
could  not  be  bought  of  them  for  ten  times  the  sum  paid  by  them  for 
the  instruction.  He  goes  to  Adrian,  Mich.,  from  here;  and  we 
bespeak  for  him  there  a  hearty  welcome  and  the  usual  success  attend- 
ing his  efforts.  The  Professor  is  a  man  of  his  word,  professing  no 
more  than  he  performs,  and  doing  good  wherever  he  goes.  In  his 
teachings  he  not  only  learns  his  scholars,  but  benefits  the  horses,  by 
introducing  a  more  humane  and  gentle  course  of  treatment,  and  there- 
fore merits  the  name  of  benefactor  to  the  brute  race,  or  a  niche  beside 
the  renowned  Bergh.  We  congratulate  the  Adrianites  on  their  acqui- 
sition. 


262  THE    NEW    SYSTEM    OF    EDUCATING    HORSES. 

Prom  the  Jackson  (Mich.)  Patriot. 

Prof.  Magner  gave  his  last  exhibition  and  lecture  in  this  city  on  Sat- 
urday afternoon  last,  and,  as  usual,  a  large  number  were  in  attendance 
at  the  opening  exhibition,  and  at  least  two  hundred  members  of  his 
class  were  present  to  listen  to  the  closing  lecture,  and  witness  some  of 
his  wonderful  feats  of  subduing  and  managing  horses.  At  the  close  of 
the  lecture,  one  of  the  members  of  the  class  offered  the  following  reso- 
lution, which  was  received  with  applause,  and  adopted  without  a  dis- 
senting voice  t  — 

Resolved,  That  we,  the  members  of  Prof.  Magner's  class,  hereby 
express  to  him  our  high  appreciation  of  his  instructions  in  his  system 
for  the  reform  and  elevation  of  horses,  which,  in  our  estimation,  is 
incomparably  superior  to  any  system  ever  brought  before  the  public. 
By  this  system  the  management  of  the  horse  is  reduced  to  a  definite 
and  exact  science,  and  we  desire  most  heartily  to  commend  Prof.  Mag- 
ner to  the  confidence  of  the  public,  and  to  express  to  him  personally 
our  thanks  for  his  patience,  his  thoroughness,  and  his  gentlemanly  bear- 
ing, while  engaged  in  his  profession  in  this  city. 

From  the  Adrian  "Weekly  Times. 

During  the  present  week,  Prof.  Magner,  the  celebrated  horse  tamer 
and  educator,  has  conducted  his  classes  in  this  city.  He  has  created  a 
genuine  furore  among  all  interested  in  horses  in  this  city;  and  his 
reputation  has  extended  to  a  circuit  of  country,  and  persons  have 
attended  his  classes  from,  over  twenty  miles  distant.  He  has  succeeded 
in  subduing  and  rendering  perfectly  tractable  some  horses  which  have 
resisted  all  previous  efforts  of  horse-breakers  and  others  to  reduce 
them  to  submission ;  and  his  wonderful  power  over  horses  excites  the 
most  astonishment  from  those  the  best  posted  in  equine  care  and 
treatment,  and  the  exhibitions  of  the  trained  stud  of  horses  which  he 
owns  and  carries  with  him  are  superior  in  interest  to  the  choicest 
features  of  the  best  circus  travelling.  In  every  place  he  has  been,  the 
Professor  has  received  the  most  emphatic  and  cordial  indorsements. 

From  the  Michigan  Horse  Breeders'  Association  of  Jackson, 
Mich.,  May  6,  1871. 

We,  the  undersigned  officers  and  members  of  the  Michigan  Horse 
Breeders'  Association,  and  citizens  of  Jackson,  have  attended  Prof. 
Magner's  lectures  on  the  education  of  horses  while  in  this  city,  and 
indorse  him  to  the  people  of  the  State  as  a  reformer  of  great  merit. 

His  treatment  reduces  the  education  of  horses  to  a  definite  and  fixed 
science,  insuring  not  only  the  most  humane,  but  the  most  wonderful 
results  in  the  control  of  wild  and  vicious  horses.  We  have  witnessed 
the  effect  of  his  treatment  in  the  control  of  a  large  number  of  vicious 
horses,  and  have  no  hesitation  in  saying  his  system  is  the  best  in  the 
world.  S.  S.  VAUGHN,  President. 

C.  C.  TURNER.  J.  A.  ROBINSON,  Secretary. 

DAN.  B.  HIBBERD,  GEO.  SHERWOOD,  Treasurer. 

From  the  Turf,  Field,  and  Farm. 
We  have  one  man  who  professes  horse-taming,  and  who  at  the  same 


THE    NEW    SYSTEM    OF    EDUCATING    HORSES.  263 

time  rises  above  the  vulgar  tricks  of  the  charlatan.  His  name  is  MAG- 
NER. He  seems  to  have  given  honest  study  to  his  art,  and  to  have 
brought  a  high  degree  of  intelligence  to  the  study.  He  regards  the 
horse  not  as  a  dull,  stupid  piece  of  clay,  but  as  an  animal  able  to  draw 
deductions,  and  to  be  moulded  by  firmness  and  kindness.  His  best 
subjects  are  those  which  the  charlatans  pronounce  the  worst.  His  sys- 
tem is  based  upon  logic,  such  a  system  as  is  worthy  of  a  controlling 
power.  Mr.  Magner  can  citre  the  very  worst  cases.  We  honestly  believe 
that  there  is  not  a  horse  in  the  world  which  he  cannot  make  gentle  and 
obedient. 

The  following  flattering  notices,  taken  front  a  large  number, 
are  included,  as  a  further  proof  of  the  superiority  and  value  of 
my  system. 

.Letter  from  Hiram  Buck  to  Kobert  Bonner. 

CROWN-POINT  CENTRE,  April  4,  1877. 

MY  DEAR  SIR,  —  I  enclose  a  slip  from  one  of  Mr.  Magner's  "Ad- 
vance Circular  "  papers,  purporting  to  be  a  copy  of  a  letter  over  your 
signature.  As  the  world  is  full  of  humbugs,  and  some  bold  ones,  I 
write,  in  my  own  and  several  of  my  neighbors'  behalf,  to  ascertain  if 
the  letter  is  genuine,  and  you  really  find  Magner's  system  original  and 
meritorious.  One  reason  of  our  asking  this  favor  is,  in  an  article  from 
"  Up  North  "  (correspondent  in  "  The  Argus  ")  Mr.  Magner  is  spoken 
of  in  disparaging  terms.  Prof.  Magner  has  advertised  to  be  at  Crown 
Point  in  a  few  days ;  and  should  you  have  the  kindness  to  favor  us 
with  a  reply,  please  do  so  soon,  as  it  will  make  a  difference  with  some 
about  attending  his  school.  Yours  very  truly,  HIRAM  BUCK. 

Autograph  Letter  from  Kobert  Bonner  in  Answer  to  Hiram  Buck's 

Letter. 

DEAR  SIR,  —  Mr.  Magner  understands  his  business  better  than  any 
living  man.  My  letter,  to  which  you  refer,  is  genuine.  He  is  not  a 
humbug  :  on  the  contrary,  I  think,  he  has  no  equal  living  as  a  horse- 
tamer.  If  you  know  of  any  other  person  who  understands  how  to 
subdue  vicious  horses  better  than  Mr.  Magner,  I  will  thank  you  to 
send  him  to  me.  Yours  truly,  ROBERT  BONNER. 

Autograph  Letter  from  Rev.  W.  H.  H.  Murray. 

THE  MURRAY  STOCK  FARM,  GUILFORD,  CONN.,  Sept  i,  1877. 
I  fully  concur  in  what  Mr.  Bonner  has  said.  Mr.  Magner  is  a  bene- 
factor in  the  truest  sense  of  that  word.  His  knowledge  of  the  horse 
is  thorough,  and  his  ability  to  impart  it  unusual.  The  horse  to-day  is 
man's  most  useful  servant.  How  to  make  him  a  safe  and  reliable  ser- 
vant easily  and  quickly,  Mr.  Magner  can  teach  people.  I  know  him 
and  his  methods  and  mannerism  of  teaching,  and  cordially  commend 
him  to  popular  favor.  Every  man  who  owns  or  drives  a  horse  should 
be  sure  to  receive  Mr.  Magner's  instruction.  I  cordially  commend 
Mr.  Magner  to  all  acquaintances  of  mine  who  love  or  own  horses 
everywhere.  They  will  find  him  all  his  indorsements  say  he  is. 

W.  H.  H.  MURRAY. 


TEACHING  TRICKS. 


Do  not  hurry  a  horse  too  fast  in  his  training.  If  you 
undertake  to  teach  too  much,  or  too  fast  in  the  start,  or 
indeed  at  any  time,  you  only  confuse  or  discourage.  Do 
only  so  much  as  the  horse  can  comprehend,  and  make  daily 
progress. 

TEACHING  TO  FOLLOW. 

If  it  is  desired  to  simply  teach  the  horse  to  follow  prompt- 
ly with  halter  or  bridle  on,  apply  the  war  bridle  (small 
loop);  when  he  comes  round  promptly,  stand  off  a  short 
distance  and  say,  "  Come  here,  sir."  If  he  d  ss  not  come 
to  you,  give  a  sharp  pull,  gradually  changing  positions  and 
going  a  little  farther.  If  he  comes  to  you  promptly,  caress 
him;  if  not,  pull  sharply,  repeating  in  this  way  until  you 
can  make  him  come  to  you  promptly,  in  any  direction,  at 
the  word. 

TO  MAKE  FOLLOW  WITH  THE  WHIP. 

The  simplest  and  easiest  way  of  doing  this,  is  to  work  up 
sharply  with  the  war  bridle,  and  when  the  horse  comes  to 
you  promptly,  take  a  short,  blunt  whip,  step  up  to  the 
shoulder,  and  while  holding  the  bridle  loosely  in  the  left 
hand,  pass  the  whip  gently  over  the  shoulder,  and  tap 
lightly  with  the  end  on  the  off  side  of  the  head.  This  will 
annoy  the  horse  and  cause  him  to  move  the  head  a  little 
from  it,  toward  you;  instantly  stop  and  caress,  then  repeat 
the  tapping  again;  should  he  attempt  to  run  from  you, 
hold  him  by  the  bridle.  Repeat  in  this  way  until  the  horse 
will  step  toward  you  promptly.  Then  touch  the  whip  over 
the  hips  and  say,  "  Come,  sir."  If  he  comes  up  to  you,  or 
shows  the  least  disposition  to  do  so,  caress,  and  so  continue 
until  he  will  come  up  promptly.  Now  step  a  little  sidewise 
and  ahead  and  say,  "  Come,  sir."  If  he  should  step  after 
264 


TEACHING    TRICKS.  265 

you,  caress,  if  not,  touch  the  lash  over  the  hips.  In  a  short 
time  the  horse  will  learn  to  step  to  you,  and  follow  promptly 
When  he  will  do  this,  stand  him  in  a  corner  of  the  room, 
stand  a  little  in  front  of  him  and  touch  him  lightly  with  the 
whip  on  the  fore-legs  and  say,  "  Come  here,  sir."  At  the 
least  intimation  of  coming,  stop  and  caress.  Then  repeat, 
touching  with  the  whip.  If  he  moves  to  you  a  little,  stop 
and  caress,  and  in  this  way  repeat  until  he  will  come  to  you 
promptly.  Then  get  a  little  farther  from  him  and  repeat  in 
the  same  manner  until  he  will  learn  to  hurry  up  to  you,  to 
get  away  from  the  whip.  Should  he  bolt  away,  put  on  the 
bridle,  and  hold  the  end  in  the  left  hand.  You  can  now 
hold  him  by  the  bridle  when  he  attempts  to  run,  until  he 
finds  he  cannot  get  away,  and  will  come  up  promptly. 

This  lesson  should  be  made  very  thorough  before  there  is 
an  attempt  to  take  the  horse  out  of  doors,  and  then  in  a 
small  yard.  If  this  is  not  convenient,  put  on  the  bridle, 
having  good  length  of  cord,  and  hold  in  the  left  hand 
loosely. 

If  the  horse  is  of  a  bad  character,  the  following  method 
may  be  used :  Turn  the  horse  into  a  room  or  small  yard  well 
enclosed.  Provide  yourself  with  a  good  bow  whip.  The 
horse  will  feel  uneasy  and  look  around  at  you,  and  then 
perhaps  for  some  place  by  which  to  escape.  Walk  up  to 
him,  and  as  he  runs  into  a  corner  apply  the  lash  sharply 
under  his  flanks,  following  him  up,  making  the  whip  sting 
keenly  around  the  hind  legs.  When  he  stops  or  turns  his 
head  toward  you,  stop  instantly,  reach  out  the  hand,  at  the 
same  time  approaching  gently.  Should  he  run  or  turn 
around  to  kick,  whip  instantly  as  before,  and  so  continue 
until  you  can  approach  and  caress  the  head  and  neck  a  little. 
Then  say,  "Come,  sir,"  at  the  same  time  touching  the 
whip  lightly  over  the  hips.  If  he  comes,  or  shows  the  least 
disposition  to  do  so,  caress  and  speak  encouragingly.  If 
he  runs,  whip  as  before,  and  so  repeat  until  the  horse  will 
come  up  promptly  when  touched  by  the  whip. 

As  the  object  is  to  make  the  horse  honest  in  following, 
it  is  necessary  to  make  him  feel  that  you  whip  him  only  for 
resistance,  encouraging  and  flattering  for  every  intimation 
of  obedience,  until  he  realizes  his  safety  from  the  whip  to 
be  in  coming  to  you. 


266  TEACHING    TRICKS. 

TO  LIB  DOWN. 

Tie  the  bridle  reins  into  a  knot  back  of  the  neck.  Throw 
your  strap  over  the  back,  under  the  body,  and  tie  to  the 
near  foot,  below  the  fetlock.  Now  pass  the  right  har  d  well 
over  the  back  and  take  a  short  hold  of  the  strap.  Cause 
the  horse  to  step  toward  you  and  pull  the  foot  up.  Then 
pass  the  left  hand  around  the  reins  and  pull  back  and  down 
upon  them  in  such  a  manner  as  to  turn  the  head  a  liltle  to 
the  off-side,  at  the  same  time  pulling  down  steadily  but 
firmly  on  the  strap  over  the  back  with  the  right  hand.  As 
the  horse  goes  down,  gradually  pull  the  near  rein,  so  as  to 
bring  the  head  to  the  left,  at  the  same  time  pressing  down 
and  from  you  firmly  with  the  right,  until  the  horse  will  lie 
down.  Pass  the  end  of  the  strap  now  through  the  ring  of 
the  bit  and  draw  through  gently,  step  over  the  neck,  and  as 
the  horse  attempts  to  get  up,  pull  him  back,  until  he  lies 
quiet.  Rub  and  caress  him,  and  after  lying  a  few  minutes, 
say,  "Get  up,  sir."  Repeat  in  this  way  for  a  few  times 
until  the  horse  will  lie  down  readily.  Then  while  holding 
him  on  or  near  the  knee  with  the  strap,  hit  him  on  the  skin 
of  the  other  with  a  little  whip,  until  he  will  bring  it  under 
and  lie  down.  After  awhile  he  can  be  made  to  come  on 
his  knees  and  lie  down  by  simply  pulling  the  head  down  a 
little  and  hitting  the  skins  with  the  whip,  at  the  same  time 
saying,  "  Lie  down,  sir,"  repeating  until  the  horse  will  lie 
down  to  the  motion  of  the  whip.  This  is  about  the  easiest 
and  most  practical  way  of  teaching  a  horse  to  lie  down. 

TO  SIT   DP. 

When  the  horse  will  lie  down  promptly,  put  on  him  a 
common  collar,  and  while  being  down  take  two  pieces  of 
rope,  or  anything  suitable,  about  ten  feet  each  in  length. 
Tie  the  ends  around  the  hind  feet,  carry  them  forward  be- 
tween the  fore  legs  and  bring  them  once  around  the  collar. 

Now  step  on  his  tail,  take  the  bridle  reins  in  the  right 
hand,  while  you  hold  the  ends  of  the  ropes  firmly  in  the 
left.  Give  a  little  jerk  on  the  reins  and  say,  "  Get  up,  sir." 
When  the  horse  throws  out  the  forward  feet  and  springs  to 
raise  himself  on  the  hind  feet,  he  finds  himself  unable  to 
complete  the  effort,  on  account  of  the  hind  feet  being  tied 


TEACHING    TRICKS.  267 

forward  under  him,  and  so  he  brings  himself  in  a  sitting 
position.  Instantly  step  forward,  holding  the  ropes  firmly, 
rub  and  caress  the  head  and  neck  a  little  for  a  few  seconds, 
then  as  you  see  the  effort  to  keep  up  becoming  tiresome,  let 
loose  and  say,  "  Get  up,  sir."  By  repeating  in  this  way  a 
few  times  the  horse  will  soon  learn  to  sit  up  when  com- 
manded without  being  tied. 

TO  MAKE  A  BOW. 

Take  a  pin  in  your  right  hand,  between  the  thumb  and 
fore-finger,  stand  before,  but  a  little  to  the  left,  of  your 
horse,  and  prick  him  on  the  breast  lightly.  This  produces 
the  sensation  of  a  fly  biting,  to  relieve  which  he  will  bring 
down  his  head,  which  you  will  accept  as  yes,  and  reward 
for  by  caressing  and  feeding  as  before.  Then  repeat,  and 
so  continue  until  he  will  bring  his  head  down  the  moment 
he  sees  the  least  motion  of  the  hand  toward  his  breast,  or 
you  can  substitute  some  signal  which  he  will  understand 
readily. 

TO  SAY  NO. 

Stand  near  the  left  shoulder,  holding  the  pin  in  your 
hand,  with  which  prick  him  lightly  on  the  withers,  which 
will  cause  him  to  shake  his  head.  You  then  caress  as 
before,  and  so  repeating,  until  he  will  shake  his  head  at  the 
least  indication  of  touching  him  with  the  pin ;  you  can 
train  your  horse  so  nicely  in  this  way  in  a  short  time  as  to 
cause  him  to  shake  his  head  or  bow  by  merely  turning  the 
hand  a  little,  or  moving  it  slightly  toward  him. 

TO  KISS  YOU. 

Teach  him  first  to  take  a  piece  of  apple  out  of  your 
hand.  Then  gradually  raise  the  hand  nearer  your  mouth, 
at  each  repetition,  until  you  require  him  to  take  it  from 
your  mouth,  holding  it  with  the  hand,  telling  him  at  the 
same  time  to  kiss  you.  He  will  soon  learn  to  reach  his  nose 
up  to  your  mouth ;  first  to  get  the  apple,  but  finally,  because 
'commanded  to  do  so.  Simply  repeat  until  the  horse  under- 
stands the  trick  thoroughly. 


268  TEACHING    TRICKS. 

TEACHING  A  HORSE  TO  DANCE. 

Put  on  the  war  bridle ;  hold  the  cord  some  four  or  five 
feet  from  the  horse's  head,  and  with  a  whalebone  whip  tap 
him  on  the  shin  or  ankle  until  he  lifts  his  foot,  then  caress 
him,  and  do  the  same  with  the  other,  making  him  raise 
first  one  foot,  then  the  other,  then  stop  and  caress.  Next, 
make  him  raise  them  several  times,  until  he  moves  his 
whole  body  by  the  motion  of  the  whip  to  the  time  of 
music.  Caress  and  encourage  frequently. 

TEACHING  A  HORSE  TO  WALTZ. 

After  he  has  learned  to  dance,  put  a  surcingle  around  his 
chest  and  fasten  the  bridle-reins  to  it,  the  left  rein  much 
the  tightest,  bringing  his  head  well  around  to  the  left  side. 
Then  make  him  move  forward,  when  he  follows  his  head, 
and  every  time  as  he  is  turning  his  head  from  you  give  him 
a  sharp  cut  with  the  whip,  which  will  make  him  jump  round 
quickly  until  his  head  comes  around  to  you  again.  Then 
you  should  caress  and  encourage  him  by  talking  kindly,  pat- 
ting and  feeding  him.  He  will  then  be  slower  to  move  his 
head  from  you,  but  you  must  continue  with  the  whip  every 
time  the  horse's  hind  parts  are  toward  you  and  his  head 
from  you,  caressing  every  few  minutes  until  he  understands 
to  move  at  the  motion  of  the  whip.  Patient  and  careful 
practice  in  this  way  will  make  your  horse  prompt  and  grace- 
ful in  his  movements. 


INDEX. 


Backing  . 48,  49 

Balking 81-86 

Big  Leg 236 

Biting  and  Striking    ....     102 

Bitting 43 

Bitting-Harness  described   .    .      44 

Blinders,  Use  of 60 

Breeding 127 

Bleeding 225 

Bruises,  Remedies  for     .     .  216,  236 

Bots 241 

Bruises  of  Cheeks,  To  cure .    .    239 

Caution 96 

Cars,  Fear  of,  removed  ...  58 
Cast  in  Stall,  Getting.  .  .  .  m 
Calendula  for  Bruises  .  .  .  231 
Callouses,  To  remove ....  238 

Canker 221 

Carrots  as  Food     .....     136 

Caustics 222 

Cold,  or  Catarrh 183 

Coffin-Joint  Lameness     .     .     .    205 
Colic   .     .     ...     .   173,  176,  246 

Colts,  How  trained     ....      33 

"        "    driven 47 

"        "    hitched    ....     ico 

"        "    shod 168 

Condition  Powders     .  219,  223,  232 

Contraction 152,  249 

Corn  as  Food    ......     135 

Corn-blades  as  Food  .     .     .    .     135 

Corns 161,  209 

Cough 224,  227 

Cows,  Kicking «3,  n? 

Cracked  Heels 219 

Crupper,  Large 69 

Cribbing 109 

Cuts  and  Wounds, 

214,  215,  231,  236,  240 
Curbs 205,238 

Digestive  Ointment    .    .    .214,215 


Diseases  and  their  Treatment  .    170 

Distemper 184 

Diuretic  Drops 224 

Fancy  . 223,  230 

Fear  of  Objects 52,  61 

Feeding 134,  251 

Feet,  Handling  the    ....      50 

Fence-jumping.    .....     115 

Fever  Medicine      ....  180,  243 

E!stul*     •     • 194,233 

Fits,  Cure  of 238 

Floor  of  Stable,  Material  for    .     134 

Foot-strap 74 

Founder 189-231 

Four-ring  Bit 107 

Getting  Cast  in  Stall  .    .    .    .     in 

Gun,  Fear  of 58 

Grease-heel 219,  220 

Haltering  Colt 35 

Hitch  a  Colt,  How  to      ...     100 

Heaves 191 

Hay,  Danger  of  feeding  too  much,  135 
Hoof,  Structure  and  Anatomy 

of    * 140-145 

Hoof  Liniment 209 

Hip  Lameness 210 

Indolent  Ulcers 247 


Inflammation  of  Lungs  . 
of  Bowels  . 
of  Brain  . 
of  Bladder 
of  Kidneys 
of  Eyes,  213 

Jumping  out  of  Shafts  . 
"  over  Fences 

Kicking  in  Harness  .  . 
"  while  Grooming 
'*  "  Harnessing 

269 


.     177 

.    285 

1 88,  244 

1 88,  227 

.     1 86 

237,  243 

.    107 
.     115 

.      64 

•  77 

•  77 


270 


INDEX. 


Kicking  while  Shoeing    ...      78 

"       install 78 

"       Cows 113,  115 

"       and  Running  away .    .      72 

Laminitis 189 

Lameness  in  Shoulder     .     .    .    208 

Large  Crupper 69 

Lead,  Teaching  to .  .  .  .  38-40 
Liniment  for  Sore  Feet  .  .  165,  244 
Lice,  To  kill  .  .  .  ...  .222 

Locked  Jaw 193 

Lugging  on  Bit  ....  91-107 
Lymphatic  Temperament  described,  5 

Mange 221 

Manger,  Best  Form  of    ...  132 

Magic  Healing  Preparation  .     .  218 

Magic  Liniment 239 

Nasal  Gleet 222 

Nail  in  Foot 210,  208 

Nervous  Temperament  described,      9 


Overdraw  Check  described 


70-72 


Pacing  Horse  made  to  trot  .    .  126 

Pawing  in  Stall 113 

Physicking 227 

Pleurisy 177 

Poll  Evil 194,233 

Potatoes  as  Feed 136 

Pulling  on  Bit 107 

"      on  One  Rein  ....  92 

"      on  Halter 99 

Pole-rig  described 46 

Pulse 224 

Putting  Tongue  out  of  Mouth  A  1 1 1 


Quarter  Crack,  Cause  of  . 
Quitter 


158 

221 


Rasping    the    Hoof,    Caution 

against 147,  249 

Rheumatism      .     .    .   243,  247,  248 

Ringbone 196-199 

Roaring,  or  Whistling     .     .  193-235 
Robe,  Fear  of 57 


Running  away 91,  94 

Running  back 90 

Sanguine     Temperament     de- 
scribed          6 

Scours,  or  Purging      .    .     .     .    211 

Scratches 219,  220 

Shafts,  Jumping  out  of    ...     107 

Shoeing 139-169 

Shoeing  a  Colt 168 

Shoes,    Concave,    a    cause    of 

Contraction 145 

Shoes,     Convex,      Contraction 

cured  by  • 153 

Shoe,  Best  Form  of    .    .     .     .     149 

Sore  Mouth 242 

Spavin      .     .     .     .    .     .     .  196, 238 

Spavin,  Firing  for  .....     200 

Sprains  and  Bruises    ....    216 

Sprain  of  Back  Sinews    .     .     .    205 

Stabling 131 

Staggers,   or  Inflammation    of 

Brain 188,243 

Striking 102 

Strangles,  or  Distemper  .     .    .     183 
Swelling  of  Legs 218 

Temperaments  described      .    .  4 

Throw  a  Horse,  To    .     .    .     .  248 

Thrush     . 218 

Tongue  out  of  Mouth,  Habit 

cured in 

To  recruit  when  out  of  Condition,  219 

Top- Wagon,  Fear  of  ....  59 

Trotting 123 

Teaching  Tricks 264 

Umbrella,  Fear  of 58 

Walls,  Jumping  over  ....     107 

Watering  Horses 137 

Weak  Back 247 

Weak  Heels 163 

Whistling 235 

Worms 212,  234 

Wounds  and  Cuts, 

214,  215,  231,  236,  238,  402 


8 


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YB   16356 


